Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Nipper or cutter for SKS fender stays?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Nipper or cutter for SKS fender stays?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-04-19, 09:45 PM
  #26  
Road Fan
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Road Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,880

Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8

Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1858 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times in 506 Posts
Originally Posted by Revoltingest
I always liked Craftsman tools, but they weren't top shelf compared to brands like Snap On.
(Craftsman box end wrenches were always clumsy & thick walled.)
For cutting tools, I like Knipex (from Germany). But they're spendy....$40 or so for wire cutters.
But dang, they are good. Menards carries them....right next to their house brand (1/5 the price).
At least before the sale to Black and Decker, Craftsman was adequate quality for the home shop where one wants consistently decent-quality tools, not the finest finish and warrantee. I am not a pro auto mechanic and I have never needed that grade of tool (maybe the Phillips screwdrivers are exceptions). Yes there are good arguments for the superiority of SnapOn, but I've used Craftsman wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers and light power tools since the 1960s with full satisfaction. Quaity may have degraded over teh past few years.

As far as clumsy, I can only say the box-ends work well in my hands.

My question isn't "what's the best I can buy," because I don't need the best. But I don't want the worst and I especially don't want to buy them over and over, ending up with a pile of junk metal bold cutters. Is the only solution to "how can I determine what's a junk cutting edge?" to "only buy Snap-On?".
Road Fan is offline  
Old 04-05-19, 07:22 AM
  #27  
pdlamb
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: northern Deep South
Posts: 8,904

Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee

Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2604 Post(s)
Liked 1,934 Times in 1,213 Posts
Originally Posted by Road Fan
Umm, the hot metal melted the plastic. Had I sprayed it with water like Tyrion suggested, it would not have happened.
Yeah, that's what I thought you meant, but I've never had that problem. Maybe it's because I usually come in from the outside of the fender, so the wheel rotation is throwing molten sparks up or down, not towards the fender (although since I hadn't thought of your problem as a possibility, I can't claim any brilliance for thinking it through ahead of time!).
pdlamb is offline  
Old 04-05-19, 07:56 AM
  #28  
Road Fan
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Road Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,880

Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8

Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1858 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times in 506 Posts
Originally Posted by djb
Another Joe blow guy who used bolt cutters and a file.

I would add an important point, if you are unsure of how much space to leave between the tire and fender, leave more than less as you can easily cut the stay a bit shorter, but you can't make it longer. (Given how the sks system encloses the top of the cut stay)
I think I have the fenders about where I want them, but I'm due one more reassembly - I'm using a Problem Solvers Flute in the front (the bike has a LOT of radial clearance to fork crown and seatstay bridge), which is the equivalent of a drop bolt. It has Paul Mini-Moto brakes and the fenders need to be under the noodles, so I need to add reach front and rear. The Flute is 50 mm long, and in the front and rear only need 20 mm. So the plan is to remove the Flute from the front, cut off the excess length, and use the cutoff to attach the rear fender bracket. So I won't trim the stays until the install is final. Then to re-install her front lighting. I think I'm also going to take a tip from the Honjo install video and add washers to the fender stay ands at the frame and fork eyelets. That will also affect

So the fender stays are not finalized. Thanks for making me think back through that point.

Right now the tires are 559 x 32 mm, and I'll probably upsize them to 559 x 38, or maybe a little wider if I can get smooth-enough tires. At 53 mm wide the fenders (SKS Bluemels) fill out the lateral clearances just neatly. The bike is for road and occasional dirt riding. She likes a quiet and zippy feeling to the bike, but wants more security on non-paved roads. Did I share this is for Mrs. Road Fan's bike, a Georgena Terry?
Road Fan is offline  
Old 04-05-19, 08:13 AM
  #29  
rumrunn6
Senior Member
 
rumrunn6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 29,552

Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0

Mentioned: 112 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5224 Post(s)
Liked 3,585 Times in 2,344 Posts
I have a small compound cable bolt cutter like this
rumrunn6 is offline  
Old 04-05-19, 08:48 AM
  #30  
daoswald
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Salt Lake City, UT (Formerly Los Angeles, CA)
Posts: 1,145

Bikes: 2008 Cannondale Synapse -- 2014 Cannondale Quick CX

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 212 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 83 Times in 54 Posts
I couldn't find any reasonably priced tool that could snip them, and didn't want to buy a bolt cutter. Finally used my angle grinder, which I already owned, and placed a dampened (soaked overnight) paint stirring stick between the stay and the fender to prevent the heat from melting the fender.
daoswald is offline  
Old 04-05-19, 09:07 AM
  #31  
Road Fan
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Road Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,880

Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8

Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1858 Post(s)
Liked 664 Times in 506 Posts
I like that idea, I was trying to think about a heat sink to draw the heat away from the steel fender brackets. But I certainly don't need a $60 - $120 bolt cutter. I think I'm headed for an 8" bolt cutter.
Road Fan is offline  
Old 04-05-19, 10:12 AM
  #32  
Revoltingest
Widely Despised
 
Revoltingest's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Revoltistan (in SE MI)
Posts: 174

Bikes: Dahon Helios, Dahon P8, Bike Friday tandem, Ingo, Trek, Columbia, Helix

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 85 Post(s)
Liked 8 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Road Fan
At least before the sale to Black and Decker, Craftsman was adequate quality for the home shop where one wants consistently decent-quality tools, not the finest finish and warrantee. I am not a pro auto mechanic and I have never needed that grade of tool (maybe the Phillips screwdrivers are exceptions). Yes there are good arguments for the superiority of SnapOn, but I've used Craftsman wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers and light power tools since the 1960s with full satisfaction. Quaity may have degraded over teh past few years.

As far as clumsy, I can only say the box-ends work well in my hands.

My question isn't "what's the best I can buy," because I don't need the best. But I don't want the worst and I especially don't want to buy them over and over, ending up with a pile of junk metal bold cutters. Is the only solution to "how can I determine what's a junk cutting edge?" to "only buy Snap-On?".
I buy all sorts of brands of tools. But for some jobs, only the best will do,
eg, only Snap-On's British Std offset box end wrenches that would work
on my 1960s Triumph 500. And for heavy machinery, the Harbor Freight
stuff is prone to failure
But I hate paying retail. For spendy tools, I buy used ones on ebay or at
flea markets. That's the way to go for 60 ton jacks, 1" drive socket sets, etc.

Last edited by Revoltingest; 04-05-19 at 10:21 AM.
Revoltingest is offline  
Old 04-05-19, 11:23 AM
  #33  
kingston 
Jedi Master
 
kingston's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Lake Forest, IL
Posts: 3,724

Bikes: https://stinkston.blogspot.com/p/my-bikes.html

Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1759 Post(s)
Liked 488 Times in 313 Posts
Originally Posted by Road Fan
I like that idea, I was trying to think about a heat sink to draw the heat away from the steel fender brackets. But I certainly don't need a $60 - $120 bolt cutter. I think I'm headed for an 8" bolt cutter.
If it's just for fender stays this ten dollar HF special should be good enough.
kingston is offline  
Old 04-05-19, 01:57 PM
  #34  
rumrunn6
Senior Member
 
rumrunn6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 29,552

Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0

Mentioned: 112 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5224 Post(s)
Liked 3,585 Times in 2,344 Posts
always use safety glasses, cuz those cut bits get launched at quite a velocity

& oh, bye the way, the last set of fenders I installed had very thick stays. meaning not the usual thin metal rods SKS Velo 65 Mountain 29 Bicycle Fenders - Pair

something else annoying about them, their quick release allen wrench size, also used for adjusting stay length, is an unusually small size
rumrunn6 is offline  
Old 04-05-19, 03:07 PM
  #35  
djb
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Montreal Canada
Posts: 13,225
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2741 Post(s)
Liked 974 Times in 797 Posts
Originally Posted by Road Fan
I think I have the fenders about where I want them, but I'm due one more reassembly - I'm using a Problem Solvers Flute in the front (the bike has a LOT of radial clearance to fork crown and seatstay bridge), which is the equivalent of a drop bolt. It has Paul Mini-Moto brakes and the fenders need to be under the noodles, so I need to add reach front and rear. The Flute is 50 mm long, and in the front and rear only need 20 mm. So the plan is to remove the Flute from the front, cut off the excess length, and use the cutoff to attach the rear fender bracket. So I won't trim the stays until the install is final. Then to re-install her front lighting. I think I'm also going to take a tip from the Honjo install video and add washers to the fender stay ands at the frame and fork eyelets. That will also affect

So the fender stays are not finalized. Thanks for making me think back through that point.

Right now the tires are 559 x 32 mm, and I'll probably upsize them to 559 x 38, or maybe a little wider if I can get smooth-enough tires. At 53 mm wide the fenders (SKS Bluemels) fill out the lateral clearances just neatly. The bike is for road and occasional dirt riding. She likes a quiet and zippy feeling to the bike, but wants more security on non-paved roads. Did I share this is for Mrs. Road Fan's bike, a Georgena Terry?
no problem. I just remember taking my time and really thinking through the fender position twice and three or four times over a few days, so I wouldnt screw up and cut the damn things too short.
I put the sks on a bike that I purposely left tons of tire/fender space, partly to avoid mud buildup issues in case I was on a lot of peanut butter mud wet roads (thankfully was not) and or for putting on wider tires (had 2in slicks for the fit, but was always thinking of the possibility of wider and with tread that would take up more room)
djb is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
benshares
Bicycle Mechanics
16
11-09-18 06:14 PM
badger_biker
Classic & Vintage
2
03-25-15 06:32 PM
alfred mcdougal
Bicycle Mechanics
14
08-29-13 02:48 PM
kikker05
Hybrid Bicycles
1
09-11-12 12:08 PM
Barrettscv
Commuting
8
03-09-10 08:52 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.