Wildwood 

Found an appropriate chrome fork for a specific bike (stamped crown) but the steerer is too short by a good bit, ~ 2inches or more (5+cm).
Nice Italian SL frame, replacement fork & components and a fast rider, but definitely not a museum piece.

A. Is welding & threading an extention on the steerer possible as a fair value, or
B. just continue the Patience in the Search (the PitS)

C. Raking the existing replacement Tange is also an option. But sub-standard, tho' economically practical.

D. or just deal with bike handling that's balanced but a bit too quick, short of twitchy.

juvela

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https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/a-.../#post-1008194

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Wildwood 

Keeping 1" steerer for vintage stem is a goal for the aesthetic.
#1 post above sounds good for 1 1/8th conversion,
…..but he didn't show the 'after' pic on the repaired steerer.

TenGrainBread 

If it were me doing it here's what I would do.

1. Buy a threaded 1" steerer tube from Framebuilder Supply. These are made by Columbus, and are only $18.75. Now you don't have to worry about threading the steerer after welding, or paying someone to thread it.

2. Using a pipe cutter, cut off the existing steerer on the fork at the point where welding the new steerer on will give you the correct length for the headtube and headset. Use sandpaper to sand off the chrome before using the pipe cutter.

3. There are many pipe clamps on the market for holding 2 tubes end-to-end for butt welding them together squarely. I have a Bessey. Any should work. Clamp the old and new steerers together and either braze or TIG weld them.

4. Sand down the braze or weld joint to smooth.

TenGrainBread 

With all the prep work (sanding and cutting), welding/brazing, and finish work, this would take me about an hour and a half. I would probably charge $50 to someone off the street. A BF member, half that.

DM me if you're interested in that. With postage, the new steerer, and the welding work you'd probably be $80 into it all said and done.

CliffordK

I don't like the idea of butt weld brazing. But, butt weld TIG should be fine. You may wish to put the crown race on first.

An alternative for brazing (and perhaps TIG welding) would be to add an internal sleeve backer, which would give the brazed joint the strength of new, and not be bad for the TIG joint.

An issue, of course, is the length of stem that can drop into the tube above the joint. Going threadless would eliminate the length of stem issue.

Pipe cutters give a nice clean cut, but tend to swage the ends of the pipe somewhat. Perhaps not a big issue of TIG welding, but potentially an issue for brazing with a sleeve.

Wildwood 

Thanks a bunch for the offer. Maybe.
Should be doable from closer than Madison, WI.

You have confirmed it's possible and reliable.

TenGrainBread 

@CliffordK I agree that a small internal sleeve would be a good for brazing. With a slight gap between steerers, the sleeve would work for TIG as well. I doubt it would get in the way of a quill if low enough on the steerer.

Re: pipe cutter. Yeah the ends do get swaged a little bit, thinned out. I also have a tungsten carbide tipped cold saw that I use regularly to cut tubes and it does a good job of keeping the cut square.