Threading Your crank Extractor In Straight
11-19-14, 09:25 PM
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Threading Your crank Extractor In Straight
My apologies if this has already been covered. If you're a codger like me, you may have trouble threading your Park Tools crank extractor properly into the threads sometimes. This is especially true for some modern cranks with angled or curved arms, as my eye wants to follow the arm angle instead of the spindle axis. After making sure the threads are free of grit and corrosion using penetrant and an old toothbrush, I've found that this socket combo helps me get everything square when screwing in the extractor nut. I like to use a deepwell socket snapped onto one of those swap meet ratchet rings that has no handle. In addition to the improved optical sighting, the lack of leverage with no handle also helps me "feel" when the extractor is threading in straight. Once the extractor is bottomed in the available clean threads, I can remove the socket combo and spin the Park Tool handle into the extractor nut. 
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Last edited by Hudson308; 11-20-14 at 06:47 AM.
11-19-14, 09:45 PM
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I like it. *shakes fist at crank arms with a diagonal face*
Personally, after cleaning the threads I like taking the extractor nut off and screwing it in with just fingertips (edit: for maximum tactile sensation- no extra weight, gaps or play), by turning it counterclockwise gently until it falls into place, then turning it clockwise for a few turns until it's too tight for just fingers, then continuing on with the wrench and handle.
Personally, after cleaning the threads I like taking the extractor nut off and screwing it in with just fingertips (edit: for maximum tactile sensation- no extra weight, gaps or play), by turning it counterclockwise gently until it falls into place, then turning it clockwise for a few turns until it's too tight for just fingers, then continuing on with the wrench and handle.
Last edited by Raiden; 11-19-14 at 10:01 PM.
11-19-14, 09:57 PM
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I also start the threads by turning the extractor "backwards" until I feel both thread leads mate and then turn it clockwise by hand as far as possible, at least two turns to be sure the threads are mated properly.
11-19-14, 11:54 PM
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blaming a bone-headed move on "modern angled cranks" is a pretty weak excuse. 
but, if you had, for instance, screwed the extractor in and forgot to remove the washer first, and then proceeded to apply enough pressure to extract the crank, knowing full-well that something might very well break, and ultimately ruined the crank arm by stripping the threads out.... well, that could easily be understood. not that that has happened to anybody i know...
but, if you had, for instance, screwed the extractor in and forgot to remove the washer first, and then proceeded to apply enough pressure to extract the crank, knowing full-well that something might very well break, and ultimately ruined the crank arm by stripping the threads out.... well, that could easily be understood. not that that has happened to anybody i know...
11-20-14, 05:12 AM
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That's a good technique. If one doesn't frequent swap meets, where would they find such a tool?
On the other hand, I have been so pleased with self extracting bolts these last 20 years, I can't imagine ever doing without again. Of course they have to be threaded in initially too.
On the other hand, I have been so pleased with self extracting bolts these last 20 years, I can't imagine ever doing without again. Of course they have to be threaded in initially too.
11-20-14, 05:17 AM
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Dont forget to remove the nut....
11-20-14, 07:11 AM
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Thoroughly cleaning and lightly oiling or greasing both threads will help with the feel for starting and continuing the threads, as well as avoiding driving grit into the soft crank alloy. It also helps you to thread the extractor in FULLY, which is important to avoid stripping the crank threads. Many years of wrenching on aircooled VW Beetle motors with soft Al-Mg alloy heads taught me to treat threads in soft metals with care. And the value of HeliCoils.
11-20-14, 11:30 AM
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I posted this earlier (or thought I did) but it seems to have vaporized.
My "secret" method to avoid cross threading removers is to not turn the remover. I position the remover, turn the crank forward slowly to find the 1st thread (same as Hillrider), turn back to engage the thread, then spin the crank to thread it in.
The method has two benefits. First it makes any possible cross thread obvious by wobbling the remover, and second it tears the remover from my hand before it's tight enough to damage anything. If all is OK, I then finish tightening, holding the tool with a wrench and spinning the crank.
My "secret" method to avoid cross threading removers is to not turn the remover. I position the remover, turn the crank forward slowly to find the 1st thread (same as Hillrider), turn back to engage the thread, then spin the crank to thread it in.
The method has two benefits. First it makes any possible cross thread obvious by wobbling the remover, and second it tears the remover from my hand before it's tight enough to damage anything. If all is OK, I then finish tightening, holding the tool with a wrench and spinning the crank.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
11-23-14, 07:55 AM
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I posted this earlier (or thought I did) but it seems to have vaporized.
My "secret" method to avoid cross threading removers is to not turn the remover. I position the remover, turn the crank forward slowly to find the 1st thread (same as Hillrider), turn back to engage the thread, then spin the crank to thread it in.
The method has two benefits. First it makes any possible cross thread obvious by wobbling the remover, and second it tears the remover from my hand before it's tight enough to damage anything. If all is OK, I then finish tightening, holding the tool with a wrench and spinning the crank.
My "secret" method to avoid cross threading removers is to not turn the remover. I position the remover, turn the crank forward slowly to find the 1st thread (same as Hillrider), turn back to engage the thread, then spin the crank to thread it in.
The method has two benefits. First it makes any possible cross thread obvious by wobbling the remover, and second it tears the remover from my hand before it's tight enough to damage anything. If all is OK, I then finish tightening, holding the tool with a wrench and spinning the crank.
11-23-14, 08:11 AM
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i make a peanut butter and jelly sandwich by spreading the peanut butter on ONE slice of bread and then put the jelly on the other one, THEN i place the slice with the peanut butter on TOP OF THE SLICE WITH THE JELLY ON IT.
and when playing golf i've dispensed with common practice of swinging the club at the ball. i now THROW the ball at the club-face. i've found that i can save money buy purchasing just one club and by varying the distance i stand from the club, i can vary the effective loft. the further away the more loft. IDK if this is within the rules or not.
and when playing golf i've dispensed with common practice of swinging the club at the ball. i now THROW the ball at the club-face. i've found that i can save money buy purchasing just one club and by varying the distance i stand from the club, i can vary the effective loft. the further away the more loft. IDK if this is within the rules or not.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 11-23-14 at 08:36 AM.
11-23-14, 08:37 AM
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my previous post was just in fun... i really don't make a PB and J as i described it.
11-23-14, 10:50 AM
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11-23-14, 07:06 PM
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