What will a new crankset offer me?
#1
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What will a new crankset offer me?
I plan on replacing my 10 speed groupset with a new 105/Ultegra combination.
Right now I have 2011 era Ultegra shifters, Dura Ace derailleurs, Tiagra brakes and an FSA Gossamer Crank (53/39).
Quite the Frankenstein in components. The Tiagra brakes I understand, presumably that was stock on the Allez non-DSWs.
I get the impression that the FSA Gossamer crank is craptastic from everything I read about it. Especially the older gen that I have. However, I am not yet thinking about replacing it when I change over to 11 speed. I kind of like the 39 up climbs, its really showing me some challenges that I like. I was about to give up and go with compact, but I think my legs are finally winning that battle.
Assuming I'm okay with a non-compact setup...what will a new crankset get me? I don't think I have the power or efficiency to justify swapping it. The LBS guy said even the new 105 crank is better. I'm just trying to figure what qualities a 105 (or similarly priced) does.
This is my first road bike, I've only had a year on it...so I don't have much to compare it to.
Right now I have 2011 era Ultegra shifters, Dura Ace derailleurs, Tiagra brakes and an FSA Gossamer Crank (53/39).
Quite the Frankenstein in components. The Tiagra brakes I understand, presumably that was stock on the Allez non-DSWs.
I get the impression that the FSA Gossamer crank is craptastic from everything I read about it. Especially the older gen that I have. However, I am not yet thinking about replacing it when I change over to 11 speed. I kind of like the 39 up climbs, its really showing me some challenges that I like. I was about to give up and go with compact, but I think my legs are finally winning that battle.
Assuming I'm okay with a non-compact setup...what will a new crankset get me? I don't think I have the power or efficiency to justify swapping it. The LBS guy said even the new 105 crank is better. I'm just trying to figure what qualities a 105 (or similarly priced) does.
This is my first road bike, I've only had a year on it...so I don't have much to compare it to.
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So, apart from considering a compact b/c of gearing ratios, the cranks you have are for all intents and purposes working for you?
Generally, if you replace a part as simple as a crank(no moving parts) b/c you've READ it's bad, most perceived improvement will be from placebo, not engineering.
Still, its your money, your ride.
If you have the means and the urge, go ahead.
Generally, if you replace a part as simple as a crank(no moving parts) b/c you've READ it's bad, most perceived improvement will be from placebo, not engineering.
Still, its your money, your ride.
If you have the means and the urge, go ahead.
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Most folks report that 10-speed cranks work "okay" with 11-speed transmissions. Okay, but not optimally. Some newer FSA cranks are even labeled "10/11-speed" on the big ring and designed to work on both. If yours is not, there could be some marginal improvement in noise and shifting with a swap to a 10/11-speed model or true 11-speed one. I would use this opportunity to move up to a better crank than the Gossamer like one matching your new transmission parts or an FSA SL-K Light crank. Standard or compact is up to you.
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#6
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what little experience I have with the shimano and FSA, the FSA was more difficult to work on as far as pulling and disassembly while the shimano was easier. but thats 3 piece vs 2 piece crank. If your like me though and you've got it in your head, you won't be happy until you upgrade.
also, rather that switching cranks what about chainrings? I switched to oval chainrings and it made a huge difference on climbing and accelerating and overall performance.
also, rather that switching cranks what about chainrings? I switched to oval chainrings and it made a huge difference on climbing and accelerating and overall performance.
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If your existing crank were so bad, you wouldn't need anyone to tell you. If you cannot list a bunch of stuff your old crank isn't doing ... it is doing the job, and a new crankset would A.) Look different, and B.) Cost money.
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After briefly having an FSA crankset, I swore them off in perpetuity. Will never put another FSA crank on any bike I own. Having to deal with spacers and wave washers and the like. It was ridiculous. Only Shimano for me!
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Funny. I have three FSA cranksets and find them incredibly easy to install and maintain. Nothing could be easier to use to apply preload than a wave washer.
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Forgot to even add the horrendous absurdity of dealing with 30mm spindles and their propensity for not sliding through the bearings without some significant force at times. Yikes!
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You may also want to check that gossamer, as there was a recall on them around that time period.
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Okay and all that ... but if it is on his bike and working well ... the question remains: What can he hope to gain by using a installing a new crank?
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Practically speaking, you will spend some money and lose some weight. I do understand wanting to upgrade though. If it were me I would look to swap out the whole group set. It is less expensive and easier. The UK vendors can assure that.
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You don't think fingertightening the preload bolt on a two piece Shimano system is easier? Plus having a crankset that sits flush with the bottom bracket versus an ugly and unsightly gap filled with a wave washer?
Forgot to even add the horrendous absurdity of dealing with 30mm spindles and their propensity for not sliding through the bearings without some significant force at times. Yikes!
Forgot to even add the horrendous absurdity of dealing with 30mm spindles and their propensity for not sliding through the bearings without some significant force at times. Yikes!
I have no idea what you mean about the 30 mm spindles. While it is true that Shimano does not deal with 30 mm spindles, 24 mm spindles are readily available in other brands, e.g. FSA. The need for a 30 mm spindle is not related to your choice of drivetrain brands, but it is rather dictated by frame choice. As far as tight squeeze through the bearings, that has nothing to do with which diameter bearings you use. It is due to tolerances. A good rubber mallet, judiciously applied, makes that a total non-issue.
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I used to buy pieces off Ebay, lightly used ... but i think in total I would spend less buying an entire groupset from one of the UK vendors.
Stick everything else on EBay ... people have started charging---and others paying---ridiculous prices for used bits.
That way everything is contemporary, everything works with everything else really well, and you will save a ton of money.
I can get a whole Ultegra group (brakes, shifters, BB, crankset, derailleurs, chain, some cables) for $500-$600 depending on exchange rate and sales and such ... or $150 or more for a single used Ultegra brifter.
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what little experience I have with the shimano and FSA, the FSA was more difficult to work on as far as pulling and disassembly while the shimano was easier. but thats 3 piece vs 2 piece crank. If your like me though and you've got it in your head, you won't be happy until you upgrade.
also, rather that switching cranks what about chainrings? I switched to oval chainrings and it made a huge difference on climbing and accelerating and overall performance.
also, rather that switching cranks what about chainrings? I switched to oval chainrings and it made a huge difference on climbing and accelerating and overall performance.
#23
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I have used AbsoluteBlack chainrings on both road and mountain bikes and have been impressed with the quality and difference in performance. I am not familiar with oval doval but I'll check it out. Thanks!