Bottom Bracket for Bianchi Italian?
04-07-20, 04:46 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: SF Bar Area
Posts: 33
Bikes: Giant TCR C1 - 16.5 lbs
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Bottom Bracket for Bianchi Italian?
I've a 83 ish Bianchi. I measured the frame shell inner diameter as 33.7 mm and frame shell width is 70mm. Without doing research I ended up buying a Shimano BB-UN55, which is 36mm (measured 35.89mm). I'm now figuring out how to get the right BB for this frame. This is definitely not Italian and most likely ISO/British, or BSA. Here is the reference I'm using and confirmed with .Sheldon Brown's Threaded Bicycle Bottom Bracket page. What I'm worried is - I measured BB frame width as 70mm. British is either 68 or 73mm. Could someone confirm?
My initial thread
Bianchigirll
Bianchigirll
Last edited by vijayl; 04-07-20 at 06:09 PM.
04-07-20, 05:49 PM
#2
Senior Member
I think you have the proper BB and that it will thread right in. Have you tried it? If the BB is obviously too large to thread into the shell, then you have an oddball 70mm wide English Threaded shell.
04-07-20, 06:10 PM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: SF Bar Area
Posts: 33
Bikes: Giant TCR C1 - 16.5 lbs
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
04-07-20, 06:42 PM
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: SF Bar Area
Posts: 33
Bikes: Giant TCR C1 - 16.5 lbs
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'm Thinking if I go with SHIMANO BBR60 Ultegra BSA I should be good. But question I have is if there is a difference in thread size and right cup side thread direction between English (68mm) and Italian (70mm).
04-08-20, 06:38 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,223
Mentioned: 654 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4722 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,036 Times
in
1,874 Posts
Your Bianchi is an entry level model with a kickstand compatible chain stay bridge and decal style circa 1983-1984. Based on this and the assumption that it is a USA market model, it is almost certainly an English threaded, low end model. The serial number will verify the country of origin and BB threading.
Some Japanese bicycles did employ 70mm shells with English threading. The cups on some inexpensive Japanese bottom brackets were very thick, resulting in a 68mm spindle with a 70mm shell. If this is the case, you can still use a English cartridge BB, but there will be 2mm less crankarm clearance on the non-drive side, which may or may not be an issue. If this is an issue, you could have 1mm removed from each side of the BB shell.
Some Japanese bicycles did employ 70mm shells with English threading. The cups on some inexpensive Japanese bottom brackets were very thick, resulting in a 68mm spindle with a 70mm shell. If this is the case, you can still use a English cartridge BB, but there will be 2mm less crankarm clearance on the non-drive side, which may or may not be an issue. If this is an issue, you could have 1mm removed from each side of the BB shell.
04-08-20, 06:46 AM
#6
Disciple of St. Tullio
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: State of Jefferson
Posts: 743
Bikes: Ciöcc, Bianchi, DeRosa, Eddy Merckx, Frejus, Hampsten, Kondor, Losa, Magni, Pegoretti, Pelizzoli, Pogliaghi, Scapin
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 267 Post(s)
Liked 333 Times
in
140 Posts
An Italian BB is a larger diameter and the right (drive) side has right hand, i.e. 'normal' threads while an English BB drive side has left hand threads.
04-08-20, 12:31 PM
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: SF Bar Area
Posts: 33
Bikes: Giant TCR C1 - 16.5 lbs
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Your Bianchi is an entry level model with a kickstand compatible chain stay bridge and decal style circa 1983-1984. Based on this and the assumption that it is a USA market model, it is almost certainly an English threaded, low end model. The serial number will verify the country of origin and BB threading.
Some Japanese bicycles did employ 70mm shells with English threading. The cups on some inexpensive Japanese bottom brackets were very thick, resulting in a 68mm spindle with a 70mm shell. If this is the case, you can still use a English cartridge BB, but there will be 2mm less crankarm clearance on the non-drive side, which may or may not be an issue. If this is an issue, you could have 1mm removed from each side of the BB shell.
Some Japanese bicycles did employ 70mm shells with English threading. The cups on some inexpensive Japanese bottom brackets were very thick, resulting in a 68mm spindle with a 70mm shell. If this is the case, you can still use a English cartridge BB, but there will be 2mm less crankarm clearance on the non-drive side, which may or may not be an issue. If this is an issue, you could have 1mm removed from each side of the BB shell.
Another option I'm thinking of is to go with this BB meant for MTB - use only 1 spacer, at the most 2. Do you think this would workout fine?
Thank you!
04-08-20, 12:37 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fredericksburg, Va
Posts: 9,579
Bikes: '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, '94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster, Tern Link D8
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1607 Post(s)
Liked 2,213 Times
in
1,103 Posts
NO do not file! You need a BB facing tool to ensure the new surfaces are parallel with each other and perpendicular to the axis of the threading!
__________________
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Likes For SJX426:
04-08-20, 01:20 PM
#9
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,776
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3582 Post(s)
Liked 3,394 Times
in
1,928 Posts
Where was you frame made? In 1983, Bianchi had its low and mid-level frames for the North American market made in Japan. These frames had English thread bottom brackets. The Italian made frames used Italian thread bottom brackets.
What bottom bracket was installed before you decided to replace it? The cups should be marked with the proper thread spec for your frame.
What bottom bracket was installed before you decided to replace it? The cups should be marked with the proper thread spec for your frame.
04-08-20, 02:16 PM
#10
Bianchi Goddess
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 27,844
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
Mentioned: 192 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2924 Post(s)
Liked 2,921 Times
in
1,489 Posts
Whatever BB English thread BB you buy make sure the spindle is long enough for the Dura Ace crank.
To each their own but I never understood putting high end components on a low end frame. This doesn't even have a RD hanger so you need to use a claw adaptor and that will cause issues with your quick release wheels.
My reply to your earlier thread. BTW this is a pretty small frame, how tall are you?
would recommend stopping right now. If this is the classic '83 Bianchi your putting that 11spd kit on I would not recommend it.
" "This is pretty low-end frame as evendent by the lack of a rear derailleur hanger, brazed on cable housing stops, and kickstand plate. Is this even a full Chromoly frame? The fork looks like a replacement. BTW the Piaggio decal simply refers to the conglomerate that owned/owns Bianchi" "Attached Images
To each their own but I never understood putting high end components on a low end frame. This doesn't even have a RD hanger so you need to use a claw adaptor and that will cause issues with your quick release wheels.
My reply to your earlier thread. BTW this is a pretty small frame, how tall are you?
would recommend stopping right now. If this is the classic '83 Bianchi your putting that 11spd kit on I would not recommend it.
" "This is pretty low-end frame as evendent by the lack of a rear derailleur hanger, brazed on cable housing stops, and kickstand plate. Is this even a full Chromoly frame? The fork looks like a replacement. BTW the Piaggio decal simply refers to the conglomerate that owned/owns Bianchi" "Attached Images
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
04-08-20, 02:22 PM
#11
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: SF Bar Area
Posts: 33
Bikes: Giant TCR C1 - 16.5 lbs
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Where was you frame made? In 1983, Bianchi had its low and mid-level frames for the North American market made in Japan. These frames had English thread bottom brackets. The Italian made frames used Italian thread bottom brackets.
What bottom bracket was installed before you decided to replace it? The cups should be marked with the proper thread spec for your frame.
What bottom bracket was installed before you decided to replace it? The cups should be marked with the proper thread spec for your frame.
04-08-20, 02:29 PM
#12
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: SF Bar Area
Posts: 33
Bikes: Giant TCR C1 - 16.5 lbs
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Gotcha... I'm going with Single speed for this. I'm 5'6". I want to fit whatever I could to start riding locally. If I can by less pricey components, I'm happy with it. My intention is not to put high-end components.
Do you think that MTB BB URL I paster above is a good bet?
Do you think that MTB BB URL I paster above is a good bet?
Whatever BB English thread BB you buy make sure the spindle is long enough for the Dura Ace crank.
To each their own but I never understood putting high end components on a low end frame. This doesn't even have a RD hanger so you need to use a claw adaptor and that will cause issues with your quick release wheels.
My reply to your earlier thread. BTW this is a pretty small frame, how tall are you?
would recommend stopping right now. If this is the classic '83 Bianchi your putting that 11spd kit on I would not recommend it.
" "This is pretty low-end frame as evendent by the lack of a rear derailleur hanger, brazed on cable housing stops, and kickstand plate. Is this even a full Chromoly frame? The fork looks like a replacement. BTW the Piaggio decal simply refers to the conglomerate that owned/owns Bianchi" "Attached Images
To each their own but I never understood putting high end components on a low end frame. This doesn't even have a RD hanger so you need to use a claw adaptor and that will cause issues with your quick release wheels.
My reply to your earlier thread. BTW this is a pretty small frame, how tall are you?
would recommend stopping right now. If this is the classic '83 Bianchi your putting that 11spd kit on I would not recommend it.
" "This is pretty low-end frame as evendent by the lack of a rear derailleur hanger, brazed on cable housing stops, and kickstand plate. Is this even a full Chromoly frame? The fork looks like a replacement. BTW the Piaggio decal simply refers to the conglomerate that owned/owns Bianchi" "Attached Images
04-08-20, 03:08 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,223
Mentioned: 654 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4722 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,036 Times
in
1,874 Posts
Based on the photo of the serial number, the frame is not from Bianchi's prime Japanese contractor, nor is it from Bianchi's Italian factory. It could be either an early Taiwanese frame or a Chiorda (Italy) manufactured frame, as both used similar formats. I'm leaning towards the former, given the OP's location and the entry level status of frame but the definitive check is to determine if the fixed/drive side cup is left hand thread (English) or right hand thread (Italian).
The frame was manufactured in 1983 but if Taiwanese it's from the grey period where it could be either a 1983 or 1984 model. The decal style was used on both 1983 and 1984 models.
As noted by SJX 46, the shell should not be filed to make it narrower. While face parallelism is critical, it is even more critical that the faces be at right angles to the central axis. Frame builders and many better LBS will have the proper tool to perform this operation.
However, given that a single speed is planned, an ATB BB with a 73mm width might be a more appropriate solution, should it turn out to be English threaded. That will provide some adjustment of chain line, by selective positioning of appropriate spacers.
The frame was manufactured in 1983 but if Taiwanese it's from the grey period where it could be either a 1983 or 1984 model. The decal style was used on both 1983 and 1984 models.
As noted by SJX 46, the shell should not be filed to make it narrower. While face parallelism is critical, it is even more critical that the faces be at right angles to the central axis. Frame builders and many better LBS will have the proper tool to perform this operation.
However, given that a single speed is planned, an ATB BB with a 73mm width might be a more appropriate solution, should it turn out to be English threaded. That will provide some adjustment of chain line, by selective positioning of appropriate spacers.
04-08-20, 03:41 PM
#14
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: SF Bar Area
Posts: 33
Bikes: Giant TCR C1 - 16.5 lbs
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Based on the photo of the serial number, the frame is not from Bianchi's prime Japanese contractor, nor is it from Bianchi's Italian factory. It could be either an early Taiwanese frame or a Chiorda (Italy) manufactured frame, as both used similar formats. I'm leaning towards the former, given the OP's location and the entry level status of frame but the definitive check is to determine if the fixed/drive side cup is left hand thread (English) or right hand thread (Italian).
The frame was manufactured in 1983 but if Taiwanese it's from the grey period where it could be either a 1983 or 1984 model. The decal style was used on both 1983 and 1984 models.
As noted by SJX 46, the shell should not be filed to make it narrower. While face parallelism is critical, it is even more critical that the faces be at right angles to the central axis. Frame builders and many better LBS will have the proper tool to perform this operation.
However, given that a single speed is planned, an ATB BB with a 73mm width might be a more appropriate solution, should it turn out to be English threaded. That will provide some adjustment of chain line, by selective positioning of appropriate spacers.
The frame was manufactured in 1983 but if Taiwanese it's from the grey period where it could be either a 1983 or 1984 model. The decal style was used on both 1983 and 1984 models.
As noted by SJX 46, the shell should not be filed to make it narrower. While face parallelism is critical, it is even more critical that the faces be at right angles to the central axis. Frame builders and many better LBS will have the proper tool to perform this operation.
However, given that a single speed is planned, an ATB BB with a 73mm width might be a more appropriate solution, should it turn out to be English threaded. That will provide some adjustment of chain line, by selective positioning of appropriate spacers.
04-08-20, 03:54 PM
#15
Bianchi Goddess
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 27,844
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
Mentioned: 192 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2924 Post(s)
Liked 2,921 Times
in
1,489 Posts
Are you using a Hollow Tech Dura Ace cranks?
I somehow think your barking up the wrong tree with this MTB bottom bracket (B) shell idea. Mass production MTBs were just getting started and the idea of the 73 was, IIRC, to provide better tire clearance for the chainstays. The idea of a lowend production ten speed having a 73mm shell is pretty far fetched. I suspect this is more a quality control and measuring issue. I would be very surprised if this was anything other than an English BB shell albeit poorly machined.
I somehow think your barking up the wrong tree with this MTB bottom bracket (B) shell idea. Mass production MTBs were just getting started and the idea of the 73 was, IIRC, to provide better tire clearance for the chainstays. The idea of a lowend production ten speed having a 73mm shell is pretty far fetched. I suspect this is more a quality control and measuring issue. I would be very surprised if this was anything other than an English BB shell albeit poorly machined.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
04-08-20, 04:13 PM
#16
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: SF Bar Area
Posts: 33
Bikes: Giant TCR C1 - 16.5 lbs
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thats additional info for me. Thanks. Do you think going with SHIMANO BBR60 Ultegra BSA, which is 68mm is a better bet? I don't have a Crank set yet.. Based on which BB I end up installing will drive my Crank set decision
Are you using a Hollow Tech Dura Ace cranks?
I somehow think your barking up the wrong tree with this MTB bottom bracket (B) shell idea. Mass production MTBs were just getting started and the idea of the 73 was, IIRC, to provide better tire clearance for the chainstays. The idea of a lowend production ten speed having a 73mm shell is pretty far fetched. I suspect this is more a quality control and measuring issue. I would be very surprised if this was anything other than an English BB shell albeit poorly machined.
I somehow think your barking up the wrong tree with this MTB bottom bracket (B) shell idea. Mass production MTBs were just getting started and the idea of the 73 was, IIRC, to provide better tire clearance for the chainstays. The idea of a lowend production ten speed having a 73mm shell is pretty far fetched. I suspect this is more a quality control and measuring issue. I would be very surprised if this was anything other than an English BB shell albeit poorly machined.
Last edited by vijayl; 04-08-20 at 04:29 PM.
04-08-20, 06:22 PM
#17
Thrifty Bill
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,523
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Mentioned: 96 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked 964 Times
in
628 Posts
Thats additional info for me. Thanks. Do you think going with SHIMANO BBR60 Ultegra BSA, which is 68mm is a better bet? I don't have a Crank set yet.. Based on which BB I end up installing will drive my Crank set decision
__________________
Please don't confuse ebay "asking" prices with "selling" prices. Many sellers never get their ask price. some are far from it. Value is determined once an item actually SELLS. Its easy enough to check SOLD prices.
Please don't confuse ebay "asking" prices with "selling" prices. Many sellers never get their ask price. some are far from it. Value is determined once an item actually SELLS. Its easy enough to check SOLD prices.
04-09-20, 05:28 PM
#18
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: SF Bar Area
Posts: 33
Bikes: Giant TCR C1 - 16.5 lbs
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
One of my friend gave me a Square Taper Crankset. found this 1.37 x 68x110 and I'm going with it.
04-17-20, 06:52 PM
#19
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: SF Bar Area
Posts: 33
Bikes: Giant TCR C1 - 16.5 lbs
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I was able to install the BB with some help.. Thanks everyone. I still need some help. I'll start a new build thread..
04-18-20, 04:35 AM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 2,812
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1105 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,326 Times
in
782 Posts
Well, there are other ways, and a file is one of them.
I had to take off quite a bit from a bb shell and what I did was install an axle and crank arm, mount a Dremel with a cut-off blade to am arm that pivoted on the pedal eye, and ran the cut-off wheel around the shell, pivoting and locking the Dremel so it would take a bit more each pass. (I used what I considered a sacrificial cup but there was only small amount of one thread that had the crest removed.)
If all you have is a file you can get a perfectly good flat & square surface if you do have a sacrificial cup. A hacksaw will speed things up. You use the modified cup as a filing guide.
Cut the cup so it will thread down inside the shell as deep as the amount you wish to remove. If it's a flanged cup you'll have to remove those, and you'll probably have to remove enough of the innermost threaded section for the remainder to fit down in the shell. A cheap cup is best, it'll only be hard on the surface, and if it's too hard you hit it with a torch - propane will do, get it red and stick it the wife's bag of gardening vermiculite to cool.
I glue a thin piece of card cut in a circle to the face of the cup after putting it it. - that way when I am close I can see and start being more careful.
04-18-20, 07:33 AM
#21
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,776
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3582 Post(s)
Liked 3,394 Times
in
1,928 Posts
A piloted facer does the job properly, the first time.
