Plainsman

I bought a used bike, tore it down, built it back (a slow slow process for me), and now all I have left is the cabling. My cable kit came with 3 different types of ferrules for both brake and derailleur cables. Can someone help me understand which type of ferrule goes where? Tiagra brakes, Shimano 105 shifters. Thanks!!!

Andrew R Stewart 

Two elements control this. The components and the frame (assuming the casing and end ferules are agreeable with each other). Most all Shimano STI levers don't use a casing end ferule for the casing's fit into the lever. So too with most all Shimano side pull/dual pivot calipers, no casing end cap into the caliper adjuster. Any frame might have it's specific or suggested casing end treatment to fit the cable stops, hangers, and routing issues that frame uses. Casing end caps/ferules with a snout extending through the stop/adjuster are sometimes a nice friction reducer at a stress point, But sometimes the snout doesn't fit. Each system of bike and components often has it's nuances that drift from the guidelines. Some ability to try an arrangement and make a judgement is needed by the wrench. Then revisit the choice after some use and be willing to modify/maintain as needed. Andy

Plainsman

Thanks Andy, that helps. The one with the snout is what was throwing me. I’ve re-cabled my bikes before, but don’t recall ever using a ferrule that looks like that. It was simply a choice between metal or plastic. The largest one in the pic doesn’t seem to fit anywhere, so I’m just discounting it completely.

Litespud

As I understand it, the snouts are to minimize introduction of road crud from exposed cable into the housing as the cable moves back and forth. So, for example, my setup (Campag Chorus 10, Jagwire brake/shifter cable set) has snouted ferrules at either end of the exposed horizontal rear brake cable under the top tube, with the snouts pointing toward each other, on both of the down tube shifter cable stops, with the snouts pointing downward, and where the rear shifter cable enters the short RD casing on the right rear chain stay, the snout pointing forward. Don’t know how effective the snouts are at minimizing dirt ingress, but it can’t hurt

02Giant 

This is how I utilize them.

andrewclaus

And don't trim the the cables until you're sure everything is right. Roll them up like a guitar string until after you've done a test ride. It's much easier to recable with the factory end intact.

Plainsman

Great advice! Thanks to all!!!

Andrew R Stewart 

I've never placed much expectation of grit penetration prevention with these types of still open ferules. The vast majority of cable friction issues wee see are general wear and water related stuff. Far more rust them grit, but we are in the Rust Belt. I guess every little bit helps... I just maintain my cables and have designed the cable routing to allow for slipping the cables out of the stops and will wipe off the inners. I find the last loop of casing from the CS to the rear der are the most likely to suck in water (and the dissolved crap with it). With external routing one can slide this piece of casing along the inner to clean and lube. Andy

DorkDisk

There are rubber covers that go into those nibs that help keep crud out of the housing itself.

Andrew R Stewart 

And I can't tell you how many of these "umbrella" type of ferule snout covers I see inches away from the snout. Like linear brake noodle boots a good idea doesn't work out well. Andy