Is 170mm Fine for Crit Racing? (My Frame has a Toe Lap))
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Is 170mm Fine for Crit Racing? (My Frame has a Toe Lap))
is 170mm Fine for Crit Racing? Well, i was advised by a World Class Bike Fitter (Literally, the Only one in ASIA) that my body is suited for a 170mm Crank.
But I'm currently Running a 165mm cranks. (And a 165mm has a Toe Lap also)
My Question is, Will a 170mm with Frame has a Toe Lap (Cinelli Parallax size 54) will Kill me because of the Toe lap or when cornering?
Thanks in Advance!
But I'm currently Running a 165mm cranks. (And a 165mm has a Toe Lap also)
My Question is, Will a 170mm with Frame has a Toe Lap (Cinelli Parallax size 54) will Kill me because of the Toe lap or when cornering?
Thanks in Advance!
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Some recent studies have suggested that the use of shorter cranks is beneficial or, at least, not less efficient than the use of longer cranks for almost all cyclists. Note that almost track cyclists use 165-mm cranks, regardless of height or leg length.
That said, foot contact with the front tire is impossible at any speed above walking pace. Above that speed, you steer by leaning, not by turning the handlebars.
That said, foot contact with the front tire is impossible at any speed above walking pace. Above that speed, you steer by leaning, not by turning the handlebars.
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I agree with Trakhak that the risks are less when racing. The issue is going to be when going around sharp turns, likely at a much slower pace. However, common sense also indicates that the longer the crank, the better the chance of the crank striking the ground when leaning.
Most track-specific frames have a higher bottom bracket, so this is minimized, but it still can happen. Pedal strike can be as bad or worse than toe overlap.
Most track-specific frames have a higher bottom bracket, so this is minimized, but it still can happen. Pedal strike can be as bad or worse than toe overlap.
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I agree with Trakhak that the risks are less when racing. The issue is going to be when going around sharp turns, likely at a much slower pace. However, common sense also indicates that the longer the crank, the better the chance of the crank striking the ground when leaning.
Most track-specific frames have a higher bottom bracket, so this is minimized, but it still can happen. Pedal strike can be as bad or worse than toe overlap.
Most track-specific frames have a higher bottom bracket, so this is minimized, but it still can happen. Pedal strike can be as bad or worse than toe overlap.
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I searched online for reviews of that frame set, but unfortunately none really discussed toe overlap or bottom bracket height. In my opinion, two of the most important features of this type of bike. You can deal with both issues, but it is good to know that they are a potential.
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I searched online for reviews of that frame set, but unfortunately none really discussed toe overlap or bottom bracket height. In my opinion, two of the most important features of this type of bike. You can deal with both issues, but it is good to know that they are a potential.
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I'll have to defer to others on that question. Maybe someone who owns one can chime in here. Just looking at the dimensions, I honestly cannot determine exact BB height. You'd need that in order to compare to existing bikes you may own and ride in order to see if it is a concern.
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I'll have to defer to others on that question. Maybe someone who owns one can chime in here. Just looking at the dimensions, I honestly cannot determine exact BB height. You'd need that in order to compare to existing bikes you may own and ride in order to see if it is a concern.
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bank of a crit curve? if you think you need 170mm crank arms then give them a try, how should we know what will work for you.
Last edited by REDMASTA; 03-16-20 at 01:52 PM.
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They give you F in the piece above. Measure the diameter of your wheel to the outside of the tire, my wife's as an example measured 340mm, take that and crank length and subtract from F which is 557 for a medium in the chart above. For me that would leave 47mm. Measure from the where the spindle sits below the cleat to the front of the shoe, whatever that happens to be taken from the remainder is your overlap. This won't be perfect however unless you ride with your heel down as you pedal so that on the upstroke your foot really is in line with the crank at the closest point, this is the case for a few riders. Mostly people ride heel up or flat when so that when the crank is at the closest point you will gain a few extra mm that might made the difference.
Personally everything I have read says that a longer crank length doesn't make a significant difference, it'll matter more if you mash vs. spin and unless you're taller can even harm your pedal stroke by causing more rocking at the hips. I would be inclined to find better things to spend the money on then a marginal improvement. Though if you're above 6' I'd be more inclined to try longer.
Personally everything I have read says that a longer crank length doesn't make a significant difference, it'll matter more if you mash vs. spin and unless you're taller can even harm your pedal stroke by causing more rocking at the hips. I would be inclined to find better things to spend the money on then a marginal improvement. Though if you're above 6' I'd be more inclined to try longer.
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They give you F in the piece above. Measure the diameter of your wheel to the outside of the tire, my wife's as an example measured 340mm, take that and crank length and subtract from F which is 557 for a medium in the chart above. For me that would leave 47mm. Measure from the where the spindle sits below the cleat to the front of the shoe, whatever that happens to be taken from the remainder is your overlap. This won't be perfect however unless you ride with your heel down as you pedal so that on the upstroke your foot really is in line with the crank at the closest point, this is the case for a few riders. Mostly people ride heel up or flat when so that when the crank is at the closest point you will gain a few extra mm that might made the difference.
Personally everything I have read says that a longer crank length doesn't make a significant difference, it'll matter more if you mash vs. spin and unless you're taller can even harm your pedal stroke by causing more rocking at the hips. I would be inclined to find better things to spend the money on then a marginal improvement. Though if you're above 6' I'd be more inclined to try longer.
Personally everything I have read says that a longer crank length doesn't make a significant difference, it'll matter more if you mash vs. spin and unless you're taller can even harm your pedal stroke by causing more rocking at the hips. I would be inclined to find better things to spend the money on then a marginal improvement. Though if you're above 6' I'd be more inclined to try longer.
And i'm 5'7 btw