Do you patch tubes?
#76
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Most don’t. Most patch kits can’t.
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"For Use With Patches and Plugs".
I think I purchased it from a local "Napa" auto parts store for 6 or 7 bucks a few years ago.
I have patched about a dozen or so tubes and it seems to work just fine.
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I am looking right now at an 8 oz. can of "Slime" brand "Rubber Cement".
"For Use With Patches and Plugs".
I think I purchased it from a local "Napa" auto parts store for 6 or 7 bucks a few years ago.
I have patched about a dozen or so tubes and it seems to work just fine.
"For Use With Patches and Plugs".
I think I purchased it from a local "Napa" auto parts store for 6 or 7 bucks a few years ago.
I have patched about a dozen or so tubes and it seems to work just fine.
https://slime.com/pages/vulcanizing-patches-plugs
Last edited by njkayaker; 06-20-23 at 07:52 AM.
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I keep patching them until I get a puncture that can’t be patched well, like it is too close to another patch.
I’ve run tubes with ~10 patches on them.
I’ve run tubes with ~10 patches on them.
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I am looking right now at an 8 oz. can of "Slime" brand "Rubber Cement".
"For Use With Patches and Plugs".
I think I purchased it from a local "Napa" auto parts store for 6 or 7 bucks a few years ago.
I have patched about a dozen or so tubes and it seems to work just fine.
"For Use With Patches and Plugs".
I think I purchased it from a local "Napa" auto parts store for 6 or 7 bucks a few years ago.
I have patched about a dozen or so tubes and it seems to work just fine.
Rema, on the other hand uses a 2 part systems with a “vulcanizing fluid” that contain one chemical and patches that contain another chemical that catalyzes a reaction that forms bonds between the patch and the tube. The patch becomes part of the tube as the system cures and is thus a more permanent fix. Rubber cement is the JBWeld of patching. Rema is the welding of patching.
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And therein lies the problem that so many have with patching tubes. “Rubber cement” is rubber suspended in a solvent. It will make a patch adhere to the tube on contact but that adhesion will decrease with time and flexing of the tube. The vast majority of these kinds of patch jobs will fail within a relatively short period and the rest will fail in the long term.
Rema, on the other hand uses a 2 part systems with a “vulcanizing fluid” that contain one chemical and patches that contain another chemical that catalyzes a reaction that forms bonds between the patch and the tube. The patch becomes part of the tube as the system cures and is thus a more permanent fix. Rubber cement is the JBWeld of patching. Rema is the welding of patching.
Rema, on the other hand uses a 2 part systems with a “vulcanizing fluid” that contain one chemical and patches that contain another chemical that catalyzes a reaction that forms bonds between the patch and the tube. The patch becomes part of the tube as the system cures and is thus a more permanent fix. Rubber cement is the JBWeld of patching. Rema is the welding of patching.
https://slime.com/pages/vulcanizing-patches-plugs
https://slime.com/collections/patches-and-plugs/products/tube-patch-kit
Last edited by njkayaker; 06-20-23 at 07:59 AM.
#83
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Patching tubes on the road? No, not any more. Too much anxiety as you rush to do a bad job.
I carry a spare new tube. Then when I get home, I patch the old one and re-install it. That way, I'm not risking any punctures on a new tube but risking new punctures on an old already punctured, but patched, old tube.
I carry a spare new tube. Then when I get home, I patch the old one and re-install it. That way, I'm not risking any punctures on a new tube but risking new punctures on an old already punctured, but patched, old tube.
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And therein lies the problem that so many have with patching tubes. “Rubber cement” is rubber suspended in a solvent. It will make a patch adhere to the tube on contact but that adhesion will decrease with time and flexing of the tube. The vast majority of these kinds of patch jobs will fail within a relatively short period and the rest will fail in the long term.
Rema, on the other hand uses a 2 part systems with a “vulcanizing fluid” that contain one chemical and patches that contain another chemical that catalyzes a reaction that forms bonds between the patch and the tube. The patch becomes part of the tube as the system cures and is thus a more permanent fix. Rubber cement is the JBWeld of patching. Rema is the welding of patching.
Rema, on the other hand uses a 2 part systems with a “vulcanizing fluid” that contain one chemical and patches that contain another chemical that catalyzes a reaction that forms bonds between the patch and the tube. The patch becomes part of the tube as the system cures and is thus a more permanent fix. Rubber cement is the JBWeld of patching. Rema is the welding of patching.
#85
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Ya, I don't patch any on the side of the road. Don't even carry a patch kit. I do carry a spare tube and if I get a flat on a ride, I swap out the tube and, depending on how far into my ride, head home. I bought one of those 4oz containers of rubber cement and I just cut up an old tube for my patches. I've had really good success with it over the last couple years. But I probably should carry a couple of those temporary patch kits, just for the off chance I get multiple in a ride. I've also heard about carrying a bill but I haven't actually done so yet.
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...patch-kit-gp-2
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Sounds very similar to my process. I have a can of that Slime brand rubber cement, but I prefer to use a Dremel with a sanding wheel to scuff my tube and the patch (which is just rubber from a previously failed tube). But I do mine a bit differently. Once I identify where my puncture is, I use chalk to draw a box centered around the puncture just a little bit bigger than my patch. Then I scuff inside the box with my sanding wheel and scuff my patch. Once I put the cement on and center my patch I put a weight on it (I have an old moped battery that works perfectly for this) and leave it like that overnight. I've had very few failures patching this way.
Wen I do bike patrol for PBAA rides like El Tour de Tucson, I'll bring 6-8 700C tubes plus a 26" narrow + fat, a 650B, and a fat 29". And there have been events where I've used almost all of them by the end of the day. On big events like this, I also carry an expanded tool kit with a Knipex wrench for headsets & other stuff, a 4-way cone wrench, small derailleur adjustment screwdrivers, a Kevlar emergency spoke, and my light battery-powered Dremel with sanding drum in case I have to quickly patch a tube, such as the rider with a 29 x 3 tube who picked up 3 suspicious thumb tacks in his tire in the final miles a couple years ago. And a very light floor pump to inflate these needy riders' tires in a jiffy.
#87
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I tried patching a tube on the seam last year. It didn't work. so I bought a new one. Perhaps with more patience it would have been fine though.
Last month I got another flat, from a construction staple. I put a new tube in, but plan to try patching this one, it's not on the seam. Only this time I'll put an honest effort into it.
Last month I got another flat, from a construction staple. I put a new tube in, but plan to try patching this one, it's not on the seam. Only this time I'll put an honest effort into it.
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You are supposed to use appropriate patches with the mentioned Slime product.
https://slime.com/pages/vulcanizing-patches-plugs
https://slime.com/collections/patches-and-plugs/products/tube-patch-kit
https://slime.com/pages/vulcanizing-patches-plugs
https://slime.com/collections/patches-and-plugs/products/tube-patch-kit
The brand of "rubber cement" for tube patches does not seem to matter that much.
That's just been my experience over the last 50 years.
Last edited by HelpSingularity; 06-20-23 at 03:28 PM.
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the park vp-1 tube says vulcanizing fluid. I pulled the chemical safety sheet on both rema and park and they are different but similar. the patches look similar except the rema's edges are serrated vs smooth. I wonder how they compare long term. I have had good luck with both.
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#91
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I carry a spare tube and swap it out instead of patching. If the spare tube gets punctured I use these. Easy, Quick and no mess. And contrary to what others here may think...they work just as good as the old fashioned patches that require glue.
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...patch-kit-gp-2
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...patch-kit-gp-2
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I carry a spare tube and swap it out instead of patching. If the spare tube gets punctured I use these. Easy, Quick and no mess. And contrary to what others here may think...they work just as good as the old fashioned patches that require glue.
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...patch-kit-gp-2
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...patch-kit-gp-2
I've patched a few times using those Park Tool pre-glued patches.
Have had one failure where it "slow leaked" all the way home and I had to top the tyre up a few times (likely user error in patching) but every other time they've been fine. I don't go into triple-digit psi though!
Like above, I carry one spare tube, so the patches only come out at the roadside if I get a second flat.
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I've patched a few times using those Park Tool pre-glued patches.
Have had one failure where it "slow leaked" all the way home and I had to top the tyre up a few times (likely user error in patching) but every other time they've been fine. I don't go into triple-digit psi though!
Like above, I carry one spare tube, so the patches only come out at the roadside if I get a second flat.
Have had one failure where it "slow leaked" all the way home and I had to top the tyre up a few times (likely user error in patching) but every other time they've been fine. I don't go into triple-digit psi though!
Like above, I carry one spare tube, so the patches only come out at the roadside if I get a second flat.
I've never used the glueless patches but with conventional patching I know that the prep is most important:
First I clean the hole area with a household spray cleaner and dry with a clean cloth.
Next a little abrasion with the sand paper (or similar)
Then a thin coat of "rubber cement", wait 1 to 5 minutes until it kinda looks dry.
Apply "Rema" brand patch and then smoosh it down good.
I've put the tube directly on the wheel and pump it up and rode away.
Back in the olden days of yore with the skinny, skinny tires I even pumped them up to 130+ psi.
Never had an issue excluding problems around the valve stem.
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Rema, on the other hand uses a 2 part systems with a “vulcanizing fluid” that contain one chemical and patches that contain another chemical that catalyzes a reaction that forms bonds between the patch and the tube. The patch becomes part of the tube as the system cures and is thus a more permanent fix. Rubber cement is the JBWeld of patching. Rema is the welding of patching.
#95
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Yes, I patch tubes.
In theory, there's no limit on the number of patches, as long as I'm not patching a patch - if that happens, the tube gets re-purposed.
Practically speaking, however, by the time a tube has had time to accumulate 3-4 patches or so, it's getting worn out anyway. When a tube starts leaking around the valve, it gets used for other purposes.
Patches themselves, if done properly, last pretty much as long as the tube lasts. The only patch I've ever had fail was one I did by the side of the road in a hurry. My fault.
My Dad taught me how to patch tubes when I was around 7 years old or so (I remember the patch kit he had - it was one of those old Schwinn kits in a cardboard tube with red lettering) and I've been patching tubes ever since. My Dad was not interested in patching our tubes (hard to blame him when he had 4 kids - and we didn't want to wait around for him to get home anyway), so we always patched our own tubes when we were kids.
In theory, there's no limit on the number of patches, as long as I'm not patching a patch - if that happens, the tube gets re-purposed.
Practically speaking, however, by the time a tube has had time to accumulate 3-4 patches or so, it's getting worn out anyway. When a tube starts leaking around the valve, it gets used for other purposes.
Patches themselves, if done properly, last pretty much as long as the tube lasts. The only patch I've ever had fail was one I did by the side of the road in a hurry. My fault.
My Dad taught me how to patch tubes when I was around 7 years old or so (I remember the patch kit he had - it was one of those old Schwinn kits in a cardboard tube with red lettering) and I've been patching tubes ever since. My Dad was not interested in patching our tubes (hard to blame him when he had 4 kids - and we didn't want to wait around for him to get home anyway), so we always patched our own tubes when we were kids.
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https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-VP-...72376402&psc=1
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I don’t overthink what patch kit I get, as literally every one that uses separate glue/vulcanizer/whatever (as opposed to the quick glueless patches) has lasted and held indefinitely. Park, Rema, Nashbar, and several others I can’t even remember.
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..people do love to make mountains out of mole hills.
ok..now we can get back to something really difficult..like lubricating a chain
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#99
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No, not on latex.
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I’ve seen lots and lots of failures on everything but Rema. My local co-op cheaped out a few years ago and the number of failures on our patched tubes went from a few (mostly operator error) to many that simply wouldn’t stick. Many of them came off when the tube was folded for storage. If the tube were put into a tire, the patch might hold better but that’s not a problem I’ve ever had with Rema. As the old saying goes: “The most expensive tool is the one you buy twice.”
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Stuart Black
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Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
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