5'7" Road Bike frame sizing?
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5'7" Road Bike frame sizing?
I am buying my first road bike (technically second because I impulsively bought one too big (58cm) and it strains my neck).
The online guides seem to give a 53-55cm range for 5'6"-5'9". I am 5'7" tall and wear 30x30 in pants size.
Can I buy a 53cm, 54cm or 55cm frame? I read that I should aim for a 54cm but I'm buying second hand so I feel like I can't be picky.
Does the wheel size factor into sizing? 700cc vs 26in
The online guides seem to give a 53-55cm range for 5'6"-5'9". I am 5'7" tall and wear 30x30 in pants size.
Can I buy a 53cm, 54cm or 55cm frame? I read that I should aim for a 54cm but I'm buying second hand so I feel like I can't be picky.
Does the wheel size factor into sizing? 700cc vs 26in
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(Wheel) Size matters... Here are some general sizing charts.
There are other factors involved like top tube length, reach, stack height, seat lay back, stem length...
There are other factors involved like top tube length, reach, stack height, seat lay back, stem length...
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If you are buying a new bike, I recommend going with the manufacturer's suggested size for that model bike. Some actually do have different sizing recommendations for various models. I'd even apply the same to an old bike if you can find the recommendations.
If a manufacturers size recommendation is between two size bikes, then generally, the smaller frame will feel more sporty and you might actually make more power on it. The larger frame will feel more stable at speed and depending on your specific body dimensions might be more comfortable, but could be less comfortable if your dimensions go the other way.
If you want to run calculators and stuff on the web that supposedly pick the perfect frame size for you, then you really are obsessing too much about your perfect pick for a bike. Hopefully it's your first road bike. Not your last road bike. As you get experience, you'll realize things you want different in your next bike if you pay attention.
If a manufacturers size recommendation is between two size bikes, then generally, the smaller frame will feel more sporty and you might actually make more power on it. The larger frame will feel more stable at speed and depending on your specific body dimensions might be more comfortable, but could be less comfortable if your dimensions go the other way.
If you want to run calculators and stuff on the web that supposedly pick the perfect frame size for you, then you really are obsessing too much about your perfect pick for a bike. Hopefully it's your first road bike. Not your last road bike. As you get experience, you'll realize things you want different in your next bike if you pay attention.
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The bigger the frame the longer it gets. Inside leg sizing only factors for standand over height and saddle to pedal distance. Reach factors for torso and arm distance. Stack factors for how low or high the front end of the bike is. Low stack means a short head tube and a more agressive riding postion in road bike terms, puting the rider in a lower flater postion. a higher stack means a longer head tube, puting the rider in a more up right postion.
If you are going down the used bike route and your not armed with a list of measurements then it's doing it the old fasioned way...Get on the bike see how it feels. It's probably the case of trying a few before you find the right fit.
If you are going down the used bike route and your not armed with a list of measurements then it's doing it the old fasioned way...Get on the bike see how it feels. It's probably the case of trying a few before you find the right fit.
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The bigger the frame the longer it gets. Inside leg sizing only factors for standand over height and saddle to pedal distance. Reach factors for torso and arm distance. Stack factors for how low or high the front end of the bike is. Low stack means a short head tube and a more agressive riding postion in road bike terms, puting the rider in a lower flater postion. a higher stack means a longer head tube, puting the rider in a more up right postion.
If you are going down the used bike route and your not armed with a list of measurements then it's doing it the old fasioned way...Get on the bike see how it feels. It's probably the case of trying a few before you find the right fit.
If you are going down the used bike route and your not armed with a list of measurements then it's doing it the old fasioned way...Get on the bike see how it feels. It's probably the case of trying a few before you find the right fit.
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I am surprised you could clear the top tube on the 58cm frame.
Anyways if you are shopping for older used bikes with quill stems- you can find replacement quill stems in many different height and reach combinations, so you can easily make a smaller frame fit you. Whereas with threadless stems there is a limit to how high you can relocate the handlebars.
Anyways if you are shopping for older used bikes with quill stems- you can find replacement quill stems in many different height and reach combinations, so you can easily make a smaller frame fit you. Whereas with threadless stems there is a limit to how high you can relocate the handlebars.
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But 54 +/- 1 is no problem and can almost always be adapted with only simple tweaks.
Personally, I'd go for a bit too large over a bit too small. But I'm out of step with modern sizing and most people now feel the opposite.
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I'm the same heigth as you and I ride a bike with a 54cm effective top tube. Most of the time this size is fine, especially about mid summer when I get into my best physical condition after a winter layoff. Often though, I would have preferred a slightly smaller frame, say ETT of 52cm. It works out that if a frame is too big there is no adjustment that will make it fit well and the longer the ride, the more that misfit will become apparent. A frame that is toward the small side had many adjustments possible.
For example, in a too large frame it may not ever be possible to find optimal saddle position which is totally dependent on the bottom bracket. On a frame toward the small side, there are several choices to get the saddle in the best location.
For example, in a too large frame it may not ever be possible to find optimal saddle position which is totally dependent on the bottom bracket. On a frame toward the small side, there are several choices to get the saddle in the best location.
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If we are talking standard geometry - 53cm would be ideal considering your inseam with your height. Anything 55cm or above is too big.
Everything else depends on manufacturer, you need to know what the geometry is on the bike you are looking at. If you are unfamiliar with stack and reach, you want something that has a virtual top tube (effective top tube) measurement (TT) 52cm-54cm range. You will need to fine tune your reach with a stem of appropriate length.
JMO
Everything else depends on manufacturer, you need to know what the geometry is on the bike you are looking at. If you are unfamiliar with stack and reach, you want something that has a virtual top tube (effective top tube) measurement (TT) 52cm-54cm range. You will need to fine tune your reach with a stem of appropriate length.
JMO
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I am surprised you could clear the top tube on the 58cm frame.
Anyways if you are shopping for older used bikes with quill stems- you can find replacement quill stems in many different height and reach combinations, so you can easily make a smaller frame fit you. Whereas with threadless stems there is a limit to how high you can relocate the handlebars.
Anyways if you are shopping for older used bikes with quill stems- you can find replacement quill stems in many different height and reach combinations, so you can easily make a smaller frame fit you. Whereas with threadless stems there is a limit to how high you can relocate the handlebars.
I have a quill stem on my current 58cm bike but I won't mess with it since its not a smaller frame.
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The short answer is yes. Any of those should work. You could probably go to 52 or 56 and make it work. Depends on the frame geometry as well as your own.
But 54 +/- 1 is no problem and can almost always be adapted with only simple tweaks.
Personally, I'd go for a bit too large over a bit too small. But I'm out of step with modern sizing and most people now feel the opposite.
But 54 +/- 1 is no problem and can almost always be adapted with only simple tweaks.
Personally, I'd go for a bit too large over a bit too small. But I'm out of step with modern sizing and most people now feel the opposite.
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I'm 5'8" in height. Table recommends 54 cm for me but instead I bought a 50 cm bike (two sizes smaller). It worked out very well for me. Didn't had any fit issues nor toe clearance issue.
I did ordered a longer stem like 110 cm and greater angle to increase reach a bit and to increase handlebar drop to improve aero. Stock stem is 80 cm. Given that 110 cm stem is not unusual either and many road bikes do come with 110 cm stock stem length.
I did ordered a longer stem like 110 cm and greater angle to increase reach a bit and to increase handlebar drop to improve aero. Stock stem is 80 cm. Given that 110 cm stem is not unusual either and many road bikes do come with 110 cm stock stem length.
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I'm the same heigth as you and I ride a bike with a 54cm effective top tube. Most of the time this size is fine, especially about mid summer when I get into my best physical condition after a winter layoff. Often though, I would have preferred a slightly smaller frame, say ETT of 52cm. It works out that if a frame is too big there is no adjustment that will make it fit well and the longer the ride, the more that misfit will become apparent. A frame that is toward the small side had many adjustments possible.
For example, in a too large frame it may not ever be possible to find optimal saddle position which is totally dependent on the bottom bracket. On a frame toward the small side, there are several choices to get the saddle in the best location.
For example, in a too large frame it may not ever be possible to find optimal saddle position which is totally dependent on the bottom bracket. On a frame toward the small side, there are several choices to get the saddle in the best location.
At our heights, with a 52 or 53cm frame, would the adjustments be minor things like changing the saddle height and/or stem height? Or would the adjustments be buying/changing out hardware like a new stem?
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If we are talking standard geometry - 53cm would be ideal considering your inseam with your height. Anything 55cm or above is too big.
Everything else depends on manufacturer, you need to know what the geometry is on the bike you are looking at. If you are unfamiliar with stack and reach, you want something that has a virtual top tube (effective top tube) measurement (TT) 52cm-54cm range. You will need to fine tune your reach with a stem of appropriate length.
JMO
Everything else depends on manufacturer, you need to know what the geometry is on the bike you are looking at. If you are unfamiliar with stack and reach, you want something that has a virtual top tube (effective top tube) measurement (TT) 52cm-54cm range. You will need to fine tune your reach with a stem of appropriate length.
JMO
I briefly read up on stack and reach and it seems tough to measure. Do people use two measuring tapes at once?
I just measured my old mountain bike's TT using this image guide and it's 54cm. I find I get a little back discomfort after an hour of riding on it so maybe I'll aim for a TT of 52cm-53cm on a road bike. Thank you!
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Your height doesn't matter as much as the length of your torso. ETT means Effective Top Tube.
https://www.bikecad.ca/effective_top_tube_length
To get your recommended ETT, go to: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/S...ulatorBike.jsp
and have someone help you get your measurements.
When sizing a bike, go by ETT length, not nominal size, either in cm. or S/M/L. ETT is the critical measurement. Saddles go up and down easily.
The effective top tube length is the horizontal distance from the top tube/head tube junction to the seat tube. This measurement has become significant as more and more bikes are designed with sloping top tubes.
To get your recommended ETT, go to: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/S...ulatorBike.jsp
and have someone help you get your measurements.
When sizing a bike, go by ETT length, not nominal size, either in cm. or S/M/L. ETT is the critical measurement. Saddles go up and down easily.
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Your height doesn't matter as much as the length of your torso. ETT means Effective Top Tube. https://www.bikecad.ca/effective_top_tube_length
To get your recommended ETT, go to: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/S...ulatorBike.jsp
and have someone help you get your measurements.
When sizing a bike, go by ETT length, not nominal size, either in cm. or S/M/L. ETT is the critical measurement. Saddles go up and down easily.
To get your recommended ETT, go to: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/S...ulatorBike.jsp
and have someone help you get your measurements.
When sizing a bike, go by ETT length, not nominal size, either in cm. or S/M/L. ETT is the critical measurement. Saddles go up and down easily.
I can imagine some with really long arms and torsos with short legs not being able to reach the pedals properly on some of the old bikes with horizontal top tube that increase stack by simply increasing the head tube and seat tube length. Even maybe some newer geometry bikes to with sloped top tubes.
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But you aren't saying to disregard the seat tube length or nominal size cm or S/M/L.........right?
I can imagine some with really long arms and torsos with short legs not being able to reach the pedals properly on some of the old bikes with horizontal top tube that increase stack by simply increasing the head tube and seat tube length. Even maybe some newer geometry bikes to with sloped top tubes.
I can imagine some with really long arms and torsos with short legs not being able to reach the pedals properly on some of the old bikes with horizontal top tube that increase stack by simply increasing the head tube and seat tube length. Even maybe some newer geometry bikes to with sloped top tubes.
The geometry of S,M,L,XL can vary from manufacturer. So if one is unfamiliar with stack and reach, the ETT is what you should pay attention to. It will usually jive with manufacturer recommendation....but not always. I could be a Small on one bike and a M on another.
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But you aren't saying to disregard the seat tube length or nominal size cm or S/M/L.........right?
I can imagine some with really long arms and torsos with short legs not being able to reach the pedals properly on some of the old bikes with horizontal top tube that increase stack by simply increasing the head tube and seat tube length. Even maybe some newer geometry bikes to with sloped top tubes.
I can imagine some with really long arms and torsos with short legs not being able to reach the pedals properly on some of the old bikes with horizontal top tube that increase stack by simply increasing the head tube and seat tube length. Even maybe some newer geometry bikes to with sloped top tubes.
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Sorry. I'm generally against acronyms because they are not always understood. ETT is Effective Top Tube. This comes about because in earlier years the top tube on bikes was horizontal. Modern frames today have a sloping top tube so that if using the top tube as a reference dimension we use a horizontal measurement because today's frames will have varying amounts of slope in the top tube. Thus, ETT provides a consistant reference across various frames.
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If you are buying a new bike, I recommend going with the manufacturer's suggested size for that model bike. Some actually do have different sizing recommendations for various models. I'd even apply the same to an old bike if you can find the recommendations.
If a manufacturers size recommendation is between two size bikes, then generally, the smaller frame will feel more sporty and you might actually make more power on it. The larger frame will feel more stable at speed and depending on your specific body dimensions might be more comfortable, but could be less comfortable if your dimensions go the other way.
If you want to run calculators and stuff on the web that supposedly pick the perfect frame size for you, then you really are obsessing too much about your perfect pick for a bike. Hopefully it's your first road bike. Not your last road bike. As you get experience, you'll realize things you want different in your next bike if you pay attention.
If a manufacturers size recommendation is between two size bikes, then generally, the smaller frame will feel more sporty and you might actually make more power on it. The larger frame will feel more stable at speed and depending on your specific body dimensions might be more comfortable, but could be less comfortable if your dimensions go the other way.
If you want to run calculators and stuff on the web that supposedly pick the perfect frame size for you, then you really are obsessing too much about your perfect pick for a bike. Hopefully it's your first road bike. Not your last road bike. As you get experience, you'll realize things you want different in your next bike if you pay attention.
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I would careful about blindly going by manufacturer’s recommended size. When I was looking at Trek Domanes, Trek’s recommended size for me was 58cm. But, with the saddle in the lowest position I could barely reach the pedals, and the reach was too long. I could hardly ride the bike. Went to a 56cm bike, and the fit was much better. I’m 6’.
I'm surprised though that you had so much trouble on a 58 cm frame at 6' of height. I'd have to suspect that you go opposite of me and have short arms and legs for your 6 foot height. I have long legs and long arms for my 5'-11" height. I used to ride a 65 cm frame with no issues. I could even straddle the completely horizontal top tube flat footed.
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sizing
I am buying my first road bike (technically second because I impulsively bought one too big (58cm) and it strains my neck).
The online guides seem to give a 53-55cm range for 5'6"-5'9". I am 5'7" tall and wear 30x30 in pants size.
Can I buy a 53cm, 54cm or 55cm frame? I read that I should aim for a 54cm but I'm buying second hand so I feel like I can't be picky.
Does the wheel size factor into sizing? 700cc vs 26in
The online guides seem to give a 53-55cm range for 5'6"-5'9". I am 5'7" tall and wear 30x30 in pants size.
Can I buy a 53cm, 54cm or 55cm frame? I read that I should aim for a 54cm but I'm buying second hand so I feel like I can't be picky.
Does the wheel size factor into sizing? 700cc vs 26in
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As a road cyclist for over 40 years, bicycle store owner for over 12 years and frame builder for the past twenty years, and a simple guideline according to Greg LeMond is to make sure that there is more seat post sticking out of the frame than size of the head tube. I
I've been a road cyclist for over 65 years, which has absolutely nothing to do with it. One's physical dimensions have a lot to do with it and the rest is up to the mass marketplace. Unless I were going to have a custom carbon bike built of course. I doubt the builder could do better than what I have, though. I had a pro fit last year. The fitter raised me up a bit - my hip angle was too closed with my -17° slammed stem.
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I wouldn't recommend going blindly either by the manufacturers recommendation or even the effective top tube length. But for those that have nothing else to go by, it's still a good start. My only caveat would be if they know ahead of time that they have exceedingly long or short legs and arms. But conversation usually never gets to that point of asking here.
I'm surprised though that you had so much trouble on a 58 cm frame at 6' of height. I'd have to suspect that you go opposite of me and have short arms and legs for your 6 foot height. I have long legs and long arms for my 5'-11" height. I used to ride a 65 cm frame with no issues. I could even straddle the completely horizontal top tube flat footed.
I'm surprised though that you had so much trouble on a 58 cm frame at 6' of height. I'd have to suspect that you go opposite of me and have short arms and legs for your 6 foot height. I have long legs and long arms for my 5'-11" height. I used to ride a 65 cm frame with no issues. I could even straddle the completely horizontal top tube flat footed.
I'm sure there is an explanation, but I haven’t worried about figuring it out.