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Rear wheel truing help

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Old 10-21-20, 10:30 PM
  #1  
Symox
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Rear wheel truing help

Hello,
I don't have a ton of experience truing wheels, but I think I know the basics. However, I have a rather weird case.

Recently my chain fell between the cog and wheel and I chewed up 7 of the 14 spokes on the drive side (they are crossed so the seven that got chewed up were the ones closest to the cassette). I went to my LBS and tried to get an exact replacement. I wanted a nonbutted spoke but they only had butted.

So I'm truing the wheel. The non drive side has 14 2mm nonbutted spokes while the drive has 7 butted and 7 nonbutted (alternating so they are distributed equally). The butted spokes are 2mm and neck down to 1.5mm in the middle (so 2, 1.5, 2 going from J bend to threads).

I'm finding on average (using a spoke tension scale) the tension is as follows:

nondrive side: 70kgf
drive side butted: 133kgf
drive side non butted: 135kgf

I'm using a park tension tool knockoff so it isn't the most accurate. For the butted spokes I'm using 1.5mm as the reference in the lookup table for the tool*. For the nonbutted I'm using 2mm:

Am I approaching this correctly or should I treat the butted spokes differently?

Thanks for your help!

*https://www.parktool.com/assets/doc/...conv-table.pdf
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Old 10-21-20, 11:00 PM
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Bill Kapaun
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It was my understanding that once you get around 110? kgf and beyond, you are simply stretching a 1.5mm spoke until you run out of threads?
My minimum for a DS is 15ga/1.8mm. 1.6mm for NDS. I may try a 1.5mm if I build a front wheel for a "smooth pavement" bike

Your theory about tension is correct.
Note edit on first line.

Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 10-21-20 at 11:03 PM.
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Old 10-21-20, 11:20 PM
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Symox
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I looked it up and it appears Wheelsmith (the brand of the butted spoke) doesn't make 1.5mm butted, rather 1.7mm. I remeasured it and it looks like it is 1.7mm.

Looks like I need to up the tension on the butted as what I had is actually:
nondrive side: 70kgf
drive side butted: 99kgf
drive side non butted: 135kgf
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Old 10-22-20, 12:20 AM
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update

Well, using the 1.7mm numbers helped a LOT with the consistency of the tension holding and the ease of truing.

I went from
nondrive side: 70kgf
drive side butted: 99kgf
drive side non butted: 135kgf

to
nondrive side: 70kgf

drive side butted: 137kgf
drive side non butted: 135kgf

Its much more stable. I think I'm on the right track.
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Old 10-22-20, 01:17 AM
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That makes much more sense.
My LBS only has non butted spokes that have yet to be the actual length I've wanted.
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Old 10-22-20, 12:30 PM
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The important thing to maintain is equal tension. I can't argue that having all of the spokes the same can't hurt but I don't really see a problem.
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Old 10-22-20, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Symox
Hello,
I don't have a ton of experience truing wheels, but I think I know the basics. However, I have a rather weird case.

Recently my chain fell between the cog and wheel and I chewed up 7 of the 14 spokes on the drive side (they are crossed so the seven that got chewed up were the ones closest to the cassette).
This is exactly why I run much-maligned spoke protectors ("dork discs") despite what folks think about them.
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Old 10-23-20, 11:12 AM
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Your tension meter is out of calibration.

=8-|
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4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
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Old 10-23-20, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
This is exactly why I run much-maligned spoke protectors ("dork discs") despite what folks think about them.
They work. Don't ask me how I know that.
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Old 10-23-20, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by davidad
They work. Don't ask me how I know that.
I run a Jump Stop chain catcher up front too; nothing like digging a greasy chain out of a tight spot to ruin a nice day's ride.
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