Help with vintage chain breaker
10-09-20, 02:40 AM
#1
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Help with vintage chain breaker
Broke our old chain breaker. Can't find anything close online or at the local bike shops.
The pin diameter at the receiver is .188" and small diameter is .130". I found a few
hardened pins of .188" diameter but they would need to be ground down for the tip's
smaller diameter. Any ideas?
The pin diameter at the receiver is .188" and small diameter is .130". I found a few
hardened pins of .188" diameter but they would need to be ground down for the tip's
smaller diameter. Any ideas?
10-09-20, 04:26 AM
#6
jj
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Well you have posts with blue numbers and I’m guessing that you’re trying to post pictures but you’re too new.
If you’re wanting to show off some cool gear, you’ll have to host it on some outside site and copy paste the url.
———
Have caliper, cheapo black chainbreak, and Park forged/cast chainbreak
Drive pin diameter on both is 0.130”
The cheapo’s is 0.130” throughout and is pressed in to the drive spindle while the Park’s is a nice forged looking piece that is threaded in to its driver.
anvil opening on cheapo is 0.173”
ao on Park is 0.170”
perfect for breaking bicycle chains. I imagine they’re fine for many chainsaw chains and useless at breaking chains of much else.
———
If you’re not just needing a chainbreak to break a bicycle chain but instead are trying to do an antique tool restoration, you’re probably looking at $50-150 to have a new pin made. That doesn’t include extracting/milling out the old pin or pressing in the new pin... the whole job may run as much as $500 but that’s how antique restorations go. You’ll pay more for quality work.
Maybe check the forums at Practical Machinist for someone hungry to do some lathe and heat treat work? Someone there might have low self-worth and, for $10 including shipping, will grind down a pin you buy either domestically for $1 or $0.20 from one of our labor colonies across the Pacific.
Your old chainbreak was just a chainbreak, they’re a cheap tool that’s meant to be tossed in the scrap metal bin after it has failed and then replaced with a new one.
my Park one is nice with fully chased threads, it operates smooth, tight, and sure- I don’t lend it out. My cheapo is rough and sloppy, but still functions great for a $7 LC item and I also don’t lend it out because sometimes I misplace my Park.
———
ideas: buy a new chainbreak or have your curious little antique properly restored by an antique tool restoration specialist. Or both.
If you’re wanting to show off some cool gear, you’ll have to host it on some outside site and copy paste the url.
———
Have caliper, cheapo black chainbreak, and Park forged/cast chainbreak
Drive pin diameter on both is 0.130”
The cheapo’s is 0.130” throughout and is pressed in to the drive spindle while the Park’s is a nice forged looking piece that is threaded in to its driver.
anvil opening on cheapo is 0.173”
ao on Park is 0.170”
perfect for breaking bicycle chains. I imagine they’re fine for many chainsaw chains and useless at breaking chains of much else.
———
If you’re not just needing a chainbreak to break a bicycle chain but instead are trying to do an antique tool restoration, you’re probably looking at $50-150 to have a new pin made. That doesn’t include extracting/milling out the old pin or pressing in the new pin... the whole job may run as much as $500 but that’s how antique restorations go. You’ll pay more for quality work.
Maybe check the forums at Practical Machinist for someone hungry to do some lathe and heat treat work? Someone there might have low self-worth and, for $10 including shipping, will grind down a pin you buy either domestically for $1 or $0.20 from one of our labor colonies across the Pacific.
Your old chainbreak was just a chainbreak, they’re a cheap tool that’s meant to be tossed in the scrap metal bin after it has failed and then replaced with a new one.
my Park one is nice with fully chased threads, it operates smooth, tight, and sure- I don’t lend it out. My cheapo is rough and sloppy, but still functions great for a $7 LC item and I also don’t lend it out because sometimes I misplace my Park.
———
ideas: buy a new chainbreak or have your curious little antique properly restored by an antique tool restoration specialist. Or both.
Last edited by hsuBM; 10-09-20 at 05:02 AM.
10-10-20, 05:43 PM
#12
SE Wis
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What brand is it?
10-11-20, 09:09 PM
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Clark W. Griswold
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I am slightly interested by this but then I saw the lame attempt at just numbering posts and was like NOPE.
If you don't want to be part of this forum then why take all the time to join and make fake posts with nothing? If you have an interest in bikes and getting help join the damn forums and post in other stuff. Interact, talk with folks, you will find a great community but just gaming the system so you can show us a picture just ain't it.
I love my Abbey Bike Tool Decade Chain Tool. It is extravagant but when you put it in your hand, you get it. It feels like a tool you want to use not just some one time use stuff that came with the thing you bought. I sometimes just want to break a chain to break a chain not because I need to replace it or anything just to use the tool.
If you don't want to be part of this forum then why take all the time to join and make fake posts with nothing? If you have an interest in bikes and getting help join the damn forums and post in other stuff. Interact, talk with folks, you will find a great community but just gaming the system so you can show us a picture just ain't it.
I love my Abbey Bike Tool Decade Chain Tool. It is extravagant but when you put it in your hand, you get it. It feels like a tool you want to use not just some one time use stuff that came with the thing you bought. I sometimes just want to break a chain to break a chain not because I need to replace it or anything just to use the tool.
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