A Visit to the Atelier
#51
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I have a 25x1 threading die that I can lend to Gugie. Sorry no die stock (handle) for it though, it's just a round die and it doesn't fit my Campy holder, too small. I plan to make a proper piloted stock for it, but there are several projects ahead of that. Note this isn't an offer to lend it to anyone else, I'm crazy protective of my cutting tools, keeping them sharp, but I trust Gugie. He may have a generic die stock to fit or he may decide it's worth buying one (they aren't too expensive), but generic ones don't have the pilot that ensures the die goes on straight. That would rely on the first thread being good enough to align the die, which seems like a bad bet on your fork.
Oops I just measured the die and it's 45 mm on the OD, won't fit in any common generic USA stocks. I see there's a crappy Chinese one on Amazon for $21 but I personally avoid both Amazon and Chinese tools. The only others I found in my brief search were around $60 plus shipping and a few over $100. And no pilot. Maybe someone has a VAR 40-B piloted die stock? I see there's one on the 'bay, just under $200 and it's missing the actual pilot, though the seller seems to have not noticed that. The pilots on the Var holder are replaceable, which is great because you can swap in inch or 25 mm pilots, or even leave it out for a weird steerer like on a Motobecane Grand Record that bulges out to a larger OD below the threads. Being replaceable means it can fall out and get lost though Upside it it would be very easy to make replacements, for me or anyone with a lathe, much less work than what I envisioned, making the entire die stock from steel. I still don't know if it fits a 45 mm die though. I have asked the seller, will report back on what he says.
Maybe I can increase the priority on making a piloted one, which was way back-burner because I had no bike that needed it before. I looked, I don't have a big enough chunk o' steel to make the stock out of, so it'd be maybe a week before I could get the steel and make it. Then, the die stock with handles will be a similar size and weight to a fork, so it would make more sense for you to send the fork to me than for me to send the die to Gugie. I'll offer to chase the thread gratis if shipping the fork to Seattle is acceptable to you, but you have to also accept some risk that the die could completely ruin the threads, which I have seen happen sometimes. This die is brand new, which is good (sharp) but also unproven, maybe it's a steerer-destroyer? I'd say unlikely, but possible. If I ruin the threads, you'd be looking at grafting a new steerer top onto yours, after cutting it in the middle somewhere. I can do the graft (and supply the French thread steerer top), but that's a lot more involved and wouldn't be free. As Gugie pointed out, I'd need to turn a 22.0 mm stub to fit inside the new and old steerer pieces. Some people do the graft with a TIG weld with no "doubler" inside the joint, but I don't trust my TIG skills enough, and I don't have product liability insurance (yet), so I would go with the proven braze joint, backed up with a 22 mm sleeve inside the joint.
Ooh I just thought of an easier way, I could make a shim or spacer to put the smaller French die in my Campy holder. Then we'd shim the inch pilot with some brass shim stock to guide it straight on 25 mm. Why didn't I think of that sooner? I even have a big enough piece of steel, so I could make that today! So, think about whether you want to ship the fork to me.
I also have one of those CLB hangers that I'd sell for $50 shipped. Sorry about the high price, I'm not greedy it's just what it's worth to me — less than that and I'd rather keep it. Again not a general offer to sell to anyone, this is only for Andy_K out of respect for him and that cool PX. I like that era and color. I might offer to sell one or two later, but the price would probably be higher. I'm like a black hole, and my parts stash is the event horizon: not even light parts ever escape. Just a little Hawking radiation now and then.
Mark B in Seattle
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#52
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Hmm, you know what would make that fit look better? Mill the HT a bit shorter until the flange goes away.
I have a 25x1 threading die that I can lend to Gugie. Sorry no die stock (handle) for it though, it's just a round die and it doesn't fit my Campy holder, too small. I plan to make a proper piloted stock for it, but there are several projects ahead of that. Note this isn't an offer to lend it to anyone else, I'm crazy protective of my cutting tools, keeping them sharp, but I trust Gugie. He may have a generic die stock to fit or he may decide it's worth buying one (they aren't too expensive), but generic ones don't have the pilot that ensures the die goes on straight. That would rely on the first thread being good enough to align the die, which seems like a bad bet on your fork.
Oops I just measured the die and it's 45 mm on the OD, won't fit in any common generic USA stocks. I see there's a crappy Chinese one on Amazon for $21 but I personally avoid both Amazon and Chinese tools. The only others I found in my brief search were around $60 plus shipping and a few over $100. And no pilot. Maybe someone has a VAR 40-B piloted die stock? I see there's one on the 'bay, just under $200 and it's missing the actual pilot, though the seller seems to have not noticed that. The pilots on the Var holder are replaceable, which is great because you can swap in inch or 25 mm pilots, or even leave it out for a weird steerer like on a Motobecane Grand Record that bulges out to a larger OD below the threads. Being replaceable means it can fall out and get lost though Upside it it would be very easy to make replacements, for me or anyone with a lathe, much less work than what I envisioned, making the entire die stock from steel. I still don't know if it fits a 45 mm die though. I have asked the seller, will report back on what he says.
Maybe I can increase the priority on making a piloted one, which was way back-burner because I had no bike that needed it before. I looked, I don't have a big enough chunk o' steel to make the stock out of, so it'd be maybe a week before I could get the steel and make it. Then, the die stock with handles will be a similar size and weight to a fork, so it would make more sense for you to send the fork to me than for me to send the die to Gugie. I'll offer to chase the thread gratis if shipping the fork to Seattle is acceptable to you, but you have to also accept some risk that the die could completely ruin the threads, which I have seen happen sometimes. This die is brand new, which is good (sharp) but also unproven, maybe it's a steerer-destroyer? I'd say unlikely, but possible. If I ruin the threads, you'd be looking at grafting a new steerer top onto yours, after cutting it in the middle somewhere. I can do the graft (and supply the French thread steerer top), but that's a lot more involved and wouldn't be free. As Gugie pointed out, I'd need to turn a 22.0 mm stub to fit inside the new and old steerer pieces. Some people do the graft with a TIG weld with no "doubler" inside the joint, but I don't trust my TIG skills enough, and I don't have product liability insurance (yet), so I would go with the proven braze joint, backed up with a 22 mm sleeve inside the joint.
Ooh I just thought of an easier way, I could make a shim or spacer to put the smaller French die in my Campy holder. Then we'd shim the inch pilot with some brass shim stock to guide it straight on 25 mm. Why didn't I think of that sooner? I even have a big enough piece of steel, so I could make that today! So, think about whether you want to ship the fork to me.
I also have one of those CLB hangers that I'd sell for $50 shipped. Sorry about the high price, I'm not greedy it's just what it's worth to me — less than that and I'd rather keep it. Again not a general offer to sell to anyone, this is only for Andy_K out of respect for him and that cool PX. I like that era and color. I might offer to sell one or two later, but the price would probably be higher. I'm like a black hole, and my parts stash is the event horizon: not even light parts ever escape. Just a little Hawking radiation now and then.
Mark B in Seattle
I have a 25x1 threading die that I can lend to Gugie. Sorry no die stock (handle) for it though, it's just a round die and it doesn't fit my Campy holder, too small. I plan to make a proper piloted stock for it, but there are several projects ahead of that. Note this isn't an offer to lend it to anyone else, I'm crazy protective of my cutting tools, keeping them sharp, but I trust Gugie. He may have a generic die stock to fit or he may decide it's worth buying one (they aren't too expensive), but generic ones don't have the pilot that ensures the die goes on straight. That would rely on the first thread being good enough to align the die, which seems like a bad bet on your fork.
Oops I just measured the die and it's 45 mm on the OD, won't fit in any common generic USA stocks. I see there's a crappy Chinese one on Amazon for $21 but I personally avoid both Amazon and Chinese tools. The only others I found in my brief search were around $60 plus shipping and a few over $100. And no pilot. Maybe someone has a VAR 40-B piloted die stock? I see there's one on the 'bay, just under $200 and it's missing the actual pilot, though the seller seems to have not noticed that. The pilots on the Var holder are replaceable, which is great because you can swap in inch or 25 mm pilots, or even leave it out for a weird steerer like on a Motobecane Grand Record that bulges out to a larger OD below the threads. Being replaceable means it can fall out and get lost though Upside it it would be very easy to make replacements, for me or anyone with a lathe, much less work than what I envisioned, making the entire die stock from steel. I still don't know if it fits a 45 mm die though. I have asked the seller, will report back on what he says.
Maybe I can increase the priority on making a piloted one, which was way back-burner because I had no bike that needed it before. I looked, I don't have a big enough chunk o' steel to make the stock out of, so it'd be maybe a week before I could get the steel and make it. Then, the die stock with handles will be a similar size and weight to a fork, so it would make more sense for you to send the fork to me than for me to send the die to Gugie. I'll offer to chase the thread gratis if shipping the fork to Seattle is acceptable to you, but you have to also accept some risk that the die could completely ruin the threads, which I have seen happen sometimes. This die is brand new, which is good (sharp) but also unproven, maybe it's a steerer-destroyer? I'd say unlikely, but possible. If I ruin the threads, you'd be looking at grafting a new steerer top onto yours, after cutting it in the middle somewhere. I can do the graft (and supply the French thread steerer top), but that's a lot more involved and wouldn't be free. As Gugie pointed out, I'd need to turn a 22.0 mm stub to fit inside the new and old steerer pieces. Some people do the graft with a TIG weld with no "doubler" inside the joint, but I don't trust my TIG skills enough, and I don't have product liability insurance (yet), so I would go with the proven braze joint, backed up with a 22 mm sleeve inside the joint.
Ooh I just thought of an easier way, I could make a shim or spacer to put the smaller French die in my Campy holder. Then we'd shim the inch pilot with some brass shim stock to guide it straight on 25 mm. Why didn't I think of that sooner? I even have a big enough piece of steel, so I could make that today! So, think about whether you want to ship the fork to me.
I also have one of those CLB hangers that I'd sell for $50 shipped. Sorry about the high price, I'm not greedy it's just what it's worth to me — less than that and I'd rather keep it. Again not a general offer to sell to anyone, this is only for Andy_K out of respect for him and that cool PX. I like that era and color. I might offer to sell one or two later, but the price would probably be higher. I'm like a black hole, and my parts stash is the event horizon: not even light parts ever escape. Just a little Hawking radiation now and then.
Mark B in Seattle
I've already got a CLB hanger on the way thanks to @Stevensb who read this thread and sent me an offer. What I do next will depend on how well that works out for me. If it makes things fit well enough to use the existing steerer, then I'll probably start with Gugie's thread file and then see if the die is necessary. If the hanger doesn't give me enough room, I might decide on the grafting and would be more than happy to pay you for the service. I'm planning to make a trip to Seattle towards the end of next month, so perhaps I can drop it off with you in person if either thread chasing or a new steerer are needed.
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#53
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Hmm, you know what would make that fit look better? Mill the HT a bit shorter until the flange goes away.
I have a 25x1 threading die that I can lend to Gugie. Sorry no die stock (handle) for it though, it's just a round die and it doesn't fit my Campy holder, too small. I plan to make a proper piloted stock for it, but there are several projects ahead of that. Note this isn't an offer to lend it to anyone else, I'm crazy protective of my cutting tools, keeping them sharp, but I trust Gugie. He may have a generic die stock to fit or he may decide it's worth buying one (they aren't too expensive), but generic ones don't have the pilot that ensures the die goes on straight. That would rely on the first thread being good enough to align the die, which seems like a bad bet on your fork.
Oops I just measured the die and it's 45 mm on the OD, won't fit in any common generic USA stocks. I see there's a crappy Chinese one on Amazon for $21 but I personally avoid both Amazon and Chinese tools. The only others I found in my brief search were around $60 plus shipping and a few over $100. And no pilot. Maybe someone has a VAR 40-B piloted die stock? I see there's one on the 'bay, just under $200 and it's missing the actual pilot, though the seller seems to have not noticed that. The pilots on the Var holder are replaceable, which is great because you can swap in inch or 25 mm pilots, or even leave it out for a weird steerer like on a Motobecane Grand Record that bulges out to a larger OD below the threads. Being replaceable means it can fall out and get lost though Upside it it would be very easy to make replacements, for me or anyone with a lathe, much less work than what I envisioned, making the entire die stock from steel. I still don't know if it fits a 45 mm die though. I have asked the seller, will report back on what he says.
Maybe I can increase the priority on making a piloted one, which was way back-burner because I had no bike that needed it before. I looked, I don't have a big enough chunk o' steel to make the stock out of, so it'd be maybe a week before I could get the steel and make it. Then, the die stock with handles will be a similar size and weight to a fork, so it would make more sense for you to send the fork to me than for me to send the die to Gugie. I'll offer to chase the thread gratis if shipping the fork to Seattle is acceptable to you, but you have to also accept some risk that the die could completely ruin the threads, which I have seen happen sometimes. This die is brand new, which is good (sharp) but also unproven, maybe it's a steerer-destroyer? I'd say unlikely, but possible. If I ruin the threads, you'd be looking at grafting a new steerer top onto yours, after cutting it in the middle somewhere. I can do the graft (and supply the French thread steerer top), but that's a lot more involved and wouldn't be free. As Gugie pointed out, I'd need to turn a 22.0 mm stub to fit inside the new and old steerer pieces. Some people do the graft with a TIG weld with no "doubler" inside the joint, but I don't trust my TIG skills enough, and I don't have product liability insurance (yet), so I would go with the proven braze joint, backed up with a 22 mm sleeve inside the joint.
Ooh I just thought of an easier way, I could make a shim or spacer to put the smaller French die in my Campy holder. Then we'd shim the inch pilot with some brass shim stock to guide it straight on 25 mm. Why didn't I think of that sooner? I even have a big enough piece of steel, so I could make that today! So, think about whether you want to ship the fork to me.
I also have one of those CLB hangers that I'd sell for $50 shipped. Sorry about the high price, I'm not greedy it's just what it's worth to me — less than that and I'd rather keep it. Again not a general offer to sell to anyone, this is only for Andy_K out of respect for him and that cool PX. I like that era and color. I might offer to sell one or two later, but the price would probably be higher. I'm like a black hole, and my parts stash is the event horizon: not even light parts ever escape. Just a little Hawking radiation now and then.
Mark B in Seattle
I have a 25x1 threading die that I can lend to Gugie. Sorry no die stock (handle) for it though, it's just a round die and it doesn't fit my Campy holder, too small. I plan to make a proper piloted stock for it, but there are several projects ahead of that. Note this isn't an offer to lend it to anyone else, I'm crazy protective of my cutting tools, keeping them sharp, but I trust Gugie. He may have a generic die stock to fit or he may decide it's worth buying one (they aren't too expensive), but generic ones don't have the pilot that ensures the die goes on straight. That would rely on the first thread being good enough to align the die, which seems like a bad bet on your fork.
Oops I just measured the die and it's 45 mm on the OD, won't fit in any common generic USA stocks. I see there's a crappy Chinese one on Amazon for $21 but I personally avoid both Amazon and Chinese tools. The only others I found in my brief search were around $60 plus shipping and a few over $100. And no pilot. Maybe someone has a VAR 40-B piloted die stock? I see there's one on the 'bay, just under $200 and it's missing the actual pilot, though the seller seems to have not noticed that. The pilots on the Var holder are replaceable, which is great because you can swap in inch or 25 mm pilots, or even leave it out for a weird steerer like on a Motobecane Grand Record that bulges out to a larger OD below the threads. Being replaceable means it can fall out and get lost though Upside it it would be very easy to make replacements, for me or anyone with a lathe, much less work than what I envisioned, making the entire die stock from steel. I still don't know if it fits a 45 mm die though. I have asked the seller, will report back on what he says.
Maybe I can increase the priority on making a piloted one, which was way back-burner because I had no bike that needed it before. I looked, I don't have a big enough chunk o' steel to make the stock out of, so it'd be maybe a week before I could get the steel and make it. Then, the die stock with handles will be a similar size and weight to a fork, so it would make more sense for you to send the fork to me than for me to send the die to Gugie. I'll offer to chase the thread gratis if shipping the fork to Seattle is acceptable to you, but you have to also accept some risk that the die could completely ruin the threads, which I have seen happen sometimes. This die is brand new, which is good (sharp) but also unproven, maybe it's a steerer-destroyer? I'd say unlikely, but possible. If I ruin the threads, you'd be looking at grafting a new steerer top onto yours, after cutting it in the middle somewhere. I can do the graft (and supply the French thread steerer top), but that's a lot more involved and wouldn't be free. As Gugie pointed out, I'd need to turn a 22.0 mm stub to fit inside the new and old steerer pieces. Some people do the graft with a TIG weld with no "doubler" inside the joint, but I don't trust my TIG skills enough, and I don't have product liability insurance (yet), so I would go with the proven braze joint, backed up with a 22 mm sleeve inside the joint.
Ooh I just thought of an easier way, I could make a shim or spacer to put the smaller French die in my Campy holder. Then we'd shim the inch pilot with some brass shim stock to guide it straight on 25 mm. Why didn't I think of that sooner? I even have a big enough piece of steel, so I could make that today! So, think about whether you want to ship the fork to me.
I also have one of those CLB hangers that I'd sell for $50 shipped. Sorry about the high price, I'm not greedy it's just what it's worth to me — less than that and I'd rather keep it. Again not a general offer to sell to anyone, this is only for Andy_K out of respect for him and that cool PX. I like that era and color. I might offer to sell one or two later, but the price would probably be higher. I'm like a black hole, and my parts stash is the event horizon: not even light parts ever escape. Just a little Hawking radiation now and then.
Mark B in Seattle
Thanks for the trust!
I do have "experience" in ruining a steerer that needed more threads using an un-piloted die - it started non-concentric, and ended up near the bottom with hardly no threads on one side, and too deep on the other. I'm risk adverse on this one. The top of the steerer looks munged up, I'm leaning towards recommending the graft a new section on the top since it's not my money. ;-)
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
#54
blahblahblah chrome moly
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OK I went and done did it, made a shim to center my French die in my Campy piloted die stock:
Tested it on a French fork, added a few mm of threads, they came out great.
So I'm now set up for French steerer thread repair, thanks to @Andy_K for giving me the kick in the pants I needed to finally do what I've been wanting to do for like 20 years now.
In my defense I've only had my lathe operational since maybe New Year and there was a big backlog of lathe projects to get to.
Fun!
Mark B in Seattle
Tested it on a French fork, added a few mm of threads, they came out great.
So I'm now set up for French steerer thread repair, thanks to @Andy_K for giving me the kick in the pants I needed to finally do what I've been wanting to do for like 20 years now.
In my defense I've only had my lathe operational since maybe New Year and there was a big backlog of lathe projects to get to.
Fun!
Mark B in Seattle
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Did you shim the pilot as well? I ask because I picked up a VAR 25 x 1 steer tube die for my VAR die stock, but the pilot is 25.4mm
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You can't have him! I've got him on a lifetime personal services contract.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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My godfather says he can get me out of that. If he pays you a visit, take the offer.
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#60
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fify
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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#61
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I am fascinated by all of the technical stuff I just pretend I understand...
More welding/brazing in this thread though please!
Like a “virtual” visit to the attellier!
More welding/brazing in this thread though please!
Like a “virtual” visit to the attellier!
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#63
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Exactly! I have learned a ton of things about things I am not equipped to work with. I am likely to remain at tier 5 for awhile.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#64
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Makes me even more dangerous, despite being a perfectionist, it gives me info to develop a workaround that is often sketchy but almost always works just fine for me having plenty of experience, good, bad and ugly.
#65
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On mine (Campy), the pilot is integral, not replaceable, so I shimmed it with .008" brass shim stock. It worked well, not ideal but for the rare times I need a French die, I will live with it.
In a pinch if you had no proper shim stock, some cut-up can could work. Soda/beer can material I have is .005", and that might be close enough, but it might be worth cutting up a few more cans to try to find something closer to .008". Or here's a piece of proper shim stock, enough to make two of these shims, for just $7.20 & free shipping.
Mark B
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The CLB hanger from @Stevensb arrived in the mail today (after having made a stop in Los Angeles on its way from Vancouver to Portland). In the meantime, I also picked up an unbranded French headset that looked like it had a thinner toothed spacer. Here's the comparison:
On the left is the thin spacer from the unbranded headset with a MAFAC cable hanger. In the center is the CLB hanger. On the right is the toothed spacer from the Stronglight Competition headset with no hanger. The Competition hanger is 4.8 mm thick, so that's the target to make this work without a new steerer. The CLB hanger is about 5.8 mm thick, and the unbranded spacer plus MAFAC hanger is 6.6 mm thick. With either a different lower headset cup and race or milling the headtube, I think I might be able to make this work.
On the left is the thin spacer from the unbranded headset with a MAFAC cable hanger. In the center is the CLB hanger. On the right is the toothed spacer from the Stronglight Competition headset with no hanger. The Competition hanger is 4.8 mm thick, so that's the target to make this work without a new steerer. The CLB hanger is about 5.8 mm thick, and the unbranded spacer plus MAFAC hanger is 6.6 mm thick. With either a different lower headset cup and race or milling the headtube, I think I might be able to make this work.
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Another visit to the Atelier today, and now I think the PX-10 is all sorted. @gugie applied his thread file to the steerer and got that cleaned up. He also filed out the flat spot for the French key on the spacer and hanger, then a bit of filing on the spacer and hanger themselves to get everything to fit together. It turned out that the threads on one of the original Stronglight Competition headset pieces was pretty badly munged, so we decided to just swap in the entire unbranded headset that I bought. With that done, I had so many threads to spare that the CLB brake hanger was a bit too thin. So, I went with the MAFAC hanger and the piece from the unknown headset.
I have no idea what this headset is, but it has a suitably French look to it, and is probably from roughly the correct period.
I had stopped by Uptown Beer Co on the way to the Atelier and picked up a suitable beer for the repair work on this frame.
(That's a 1948 Peugeot PH-60 on the wall in the background, BTW.)
Unfortunately, I failed to get a picture of one of the more interesting parts of this repair. The fork crown bearing race was loose, even after knurling the fork side, so Gugie cut a suitable piece of shim stock. Someday, someone will disassemble this bike and scratch their head over finding a piece of a Schweppes Ginger Ale can in there. I probably should have run out and bought a can of Perrier, but we made do with what was on hand.
I have no idea what this headset is, but it has a suitably French look to it, and is probably from roughly the correct period.
I had stopped by Uptown Beer Co on the way to the Atelier and picked up a suitable beer for the repair work on this frame.
(That's a 1948 Peugeot PH-60 on the wall in the background, BTW.)
Unfortunately, I failed to get a picture of one of the more interesting parts of this repair. The fork crown bearing race was loose, even after knurling the fork side, so Gugie cut a suitable piece of shim stock. Someday, someone will disassemble this bike and scratch their head over finding a piece of a Schweppes Ginger Ale can in there. I probably should have run out and bought a can of Perrier, but we made do with what was on hand.
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#68
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Unfortunately, I failed to get a picture of one of the more interesting parts of this repair. The fork crown bearing race was loose, even after knurling the fork side, so Gugie cut a suitable piece of shim stock. Someday, someone will disassemble this bike and scratch their head over finding a piece of a Schweppes Ginger Ale can in there. I probably should have run out and bought a can of Perrier, but we made do with what was on hand.
Zen and the art of fork race installation
I recently purchased and applied the very clever Stein knurling tool, which helped, but wasn't sufficient. Reading a book about motorcycles and philosophy can come in handy.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
Last edited by gugie; 05-29-22 at 08:04 PM.
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Do they have a chapter about removing a stuck seatpost?
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Gotcha covered.
Zen and the art of fork race installation
I recently purchased and applied the very clever Stein knurling tool, which helped, but wasn't sufficient. Reading a book about motorcycles and philosophy can come in handy.
Zen and the art of fork race installation
I recently purchased and applied the very clever Stein knurling tool, which helped, but wasn't sufficient. Reading a book about motorcycles and philosophy can come in handy.
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You folks in Portland are so lucky to have Gugie around to come up with these fixes.
And frame alterations.
And just general Gugieness.
And frame alterations.
And just general Gugieness.
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