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Bikes you painted yourself

Old 05-11-20, 12:58 AM
  #101  
jbchybridrider 
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I colour matched this to original. It's one shot of base coat and decals straight on top with no clear like original but obviously still better quality that original.
Done 6 months? ago and still haven't ridden it, tires not even glued yet.





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Old 05-11-20, 01:04 AM
  #102  
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Just painted this a few days ago. Frame not done yet because it's a different colour. I was going to sand and polish it but don't think I'll bother.



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Old 05-14-20, 07:56 AM
  #103  
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Posting this because I think it's a good guide to follow for anyone to have a go at painting bike frames and get good results with basic supplies from the store.
Worth the watch...


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Old 05-16-20, 04:31 AM
  #104  
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Great works, guys!
Also write more details about the process, sanding, brands of used materials, blowing techniques, etc, etc. . How did you protect from dust?
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Old 05-16-20, 05:25 AM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by jbchybridrider View Post
Posting this because I think it's a good guide to follow for anyone to have a go at painting bike frames and get good results with basic supplies from the store.
Worth the watch...


https://youtu.be/tDnecjnpYMU
The best rattle can tutorial I've seen.
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Old 05-16-20, 06:06 AM
  #106  
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I still think brush painting gives better results. The rattlecan paint I can buy locally is not much better than that stuff the Aborigines spit out on cave walls to make hand paintings. It goes on as a series of small clumps, and no matter how many coats you use, the finish is bumpy and rough, not smooth, the way properly thinned-out brush paint lays down.


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Old 05-17-20, 10:33 PM
  #107  
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I've got my money back on the T110 aircap that never arrived and so not patient enough to order elsewhere I used my touch up mini gun on a Mongoose frame. No decals until it's cured because there 30+ years old and don't know how they'll react to solvents. I'm very happy with the results, base coat very thin, the serial number is visible like it was bare metal and clears like glass. Showing my booth too, good ventilation with a fan I made up but slows any dust down and keeps insects out, it's a good environment to spray in.
When i can handle it to move it the Giant frame gets done.




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Old 05-17-20, 10:44 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by Lemond1985 View Post
I still think brush painting gives better results. The rattlecan paint I can buy locally is not much better than that stuff the Aborigines spit out on cave walls to make hand paintings. It goes on as a series of small clumps, and no matter how many coats you use, the finish is bumpy and rough, not smooth, the way properly thinned-out brush paint lays down.

I know what you mean. I have a $700 automotive spay gun. It's for large panels on cars but setting it up and spraying technique is quite difficult. I think I'll stick to my mini cheap gun for bikes, it does a great job with a finer nozzle and aircap for thin bike frame tubes and quicker than airbrushes.
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Old 05-18-20, 10:55 AM
  #109  
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Thanks for the photos of your spray booth. I also discovered the value in a rotisserie like you use for spraying. It is especially helpful to keep paint from running. I have never been one for Misting from 12 inches away. I like to get in fairly close and keep a nice wet edge. I have thought about someday trying to build an electric version that I could operate with a foot switch like you use on a sewing machine
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Old 05-18-20, 01:39 PM
  #110  
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When I received this frame it had a Baylis sticker on it . Unfortunately the original paint and sticker could not be saved . This job was a real learning experience for me . First I didn't know you had to spray a white base coat when you use the neon colors . Second I got the clear coat on to heavy and melted the stickers .
IMG_0026 by mark westi, on Flickr
DSCF2462 by mark westi, on Flickr
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Old 05-18-20, 03:12 PM
  #111  
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Old 05-18-20, 07:15 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by capnjonny View Post
Thanks for the photos of your spray booth. I also discovered the value in a rotisserie like you use for spraying. It is especially helpful to keep paint from running. I have never been one for Misting from 12 inches away. I like to get in fairly close and keep a nice wet edge. I have thought about someday trying to build an electric version that I could operate with a foot switch like you use on a sewing machine
Yes it's a good idea to be able to spin the frame 360 degree. I can put a fork on the other end.
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Old 05-18-20, 07:21 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by markwesti View Post
When I received this frame it had a Baylis sticker on it . Unfortunately the original paint and sticker could not be saved . This job was a real learning experience for me . First I didn't know you had to spray a white base coat when you use the neon colors . Second I got the clear coat on to heavy and melted the stickers .
IMG_0026 by mark westi, on Flickr
DSCF2462 by mark westi, on Flickr
Because paint is transparent the undercoat or first base coat affects the top coat especially for light colours. With my Olympia I haven't show'n on this thread I mixed some red top coat into the undercoat so now when the bikes in sunshine it glows red. It's very eye catchy.
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Old 05-19-20, 09:56 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by Lemond1985 View Post
I still think brush painting gives better results. The rattlecan paint I can buy locally is not much better than that stuff the Aborigines spit out on cave walls to make hand paintings. It goes on as a series of small clumps, and no matter how many coats you use, the finish is bumpy and rough, not smooth, the way properly thinned-out brush paint lays down.


Is there any special technique when brushing? I'd worry that it leaves brush strokes behind rather than laying flat. Any paint suggestions i.e. brand, series? Thanks.
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Old 05-19-20, 10:38 PM
  #115  
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Working on the Hotrock today. Really not pleased with the color...



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Old 05-19-20, 10:50 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by The_Joe View Post
Is there any special technique when brushing? I'd worry that it leaves brush strokes behind rather than laying flat. Any paint suggestions i.e. brand, series? Thanks.
Just get some paint you like (Rustoleum is fine) some compatible thinner, and a brush or roller, and play around. You will find that when you thin out paint a little, it does what some people call "self-leveling", where any brush strokes or imperfections flatten out during the drying process. The amount you thin the paint out varies, you want the paint to have roughly the consistency of milk, something like 1/4 thinner might do it, depending on how thick the paint is to begin with.

If you get drips, sure you will have to sand those out. Some people like to use a small roller, they're good for getting the paint on evenly and avoiding drips.
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Old 05-20-20, 02:39 PM
  #117  
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My Kabuki Diamond Formula
I bought this bike new in about 1976 or so and shortly afterwards moved onto a sailboat and parked my car. This was my only transportation for a few years. We moved to dry land in 1990 and it really needed to be painted, so I thought I would try some rustoleum on it after bead blasting off all the old paint. It still looks OK after 30 years but definitely not an up close look! This was my first light weight racer and I still ride it now and then . Hooray for rattle cans! Joe
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Old 05-20-20, 04:32 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by Lemond1985 View Post
Just get some paint you like (Rustoleum is fine) some compatible thinner, and a brush or roller, and play around. You will find that when you thin out paint a little, it does what some people call "self-leveling", where any brush strokes or imperfections flatten out during the drying process. The amount you thin the paint out varies, you want the paint to have roughly the consistency of milk, something like 1/4 thinner might do it, depending on how thick the paint is to begin with.

If you get drips, sure you will have to sand those out. Some people like to use a small roller, they're good for getting the paint on evenly and avoiding drips.
Would it be possible to post some pics of bikes you have painted with a brush?
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Old 05-20-20, 04:33 PM
  #119  
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Tastefully done, Kabuki12


Are those RIGIDA Rims?
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Old 05-20-20, 04:38 PM
  #120  
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Finished this Dekerf recently still can't make up my mind on bar tape colour.




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Old 05-20-20, 05:01 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by branko_76 View Post
Tastefully done, Kabuki12


Are those RIGIDA Rims?
Thank you,
yes blue label 27” . I am now running Pasella Panaracers. The wheels are laced with butted Stella spokes to Campy Record High Flange dated 1971.
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Old 05-21-20, 06:23 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Darth Lefty View Post
Working on the Hotrock today. Really not pleased with the color...

I did an engine block Kermit Green once, looked nothing like the cap either.
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Old 05-21-20, 06:26 AM
  #123  
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I have a few more off the production line

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Old 05-21-20, 06:31 AM
  #124  
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1989 Iboc Pro I bought for $60 pretty beat up. Most of the original parts are going back on just cleaned and lubed then I'm going to hammer it on single trail this winter.

Just a few spots show'n in the paint but the camera picks them up 100 time better than the eye.




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Old 05-21-20, 06:38 AM
  #125  
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My 1993 Giant Innova ex flatbar hybrid I use to love riding back when it was new. Components broke quickly and the front wheel collapsed from to many wheelies then spent 25 or so years floating around the shed. Going to be my long overdue dropbar gravel bike.





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