40 year old Motobecane /bottom bracket creaky
06-04-20, 02:26 PM
#26
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The axle flats are the 4 flats that the crankset slides onto.
Search YouTube for "square taper overhaul". Maybe add keywords crank or crankset.
Search YouTube for "square taper overhaul". Maybe add keywords crank or crankset.
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06-04-20, 02:44 PM
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the only reason to use loose balls is to be able to use the maximum amount
of balls. cup and cone bottom brackets like yours often use retainers that have
9 balls. some really cheap French retainers only have 7 balls. use retainers that
have 11 balls and you'll have the best of both worlds.
by 78 your Stronglight crank will have the standard 22mm extractor threads.
Park Tools are fine shop quality tools
when Fissile says axle flats he means the part that the crank arm fits onto
axle is incorrect. axles are stationary, spindles turn
of balls. cup and cone bottom brackets like yours often use retainers that have
9 balls. some really cheap French retainers only have 7 balls. use retainers that
have 11 balls and you'll have the best of both worlds.
by 78 your Stronglight crank will have the standard 22mm extractor threads.
Park Tools are fine shop quality tools
when Fissile says axle flats he means the part that the crank arm fits onto
axle is incorrect. axles are stationary, spindles turn
06-04-20, 03:05 PM
#28
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Sheldon Brown mentions this in his glossary of terms under "Axle":
The shaft at the middle of a bearing. There is some controversy as to whether "axle" or "spindle" should be used in particular contexts. The distinction is based on whether the axle/spindle is stationary, as that in a hub, or rotates, as that in a bottom bracket. There have been bitter flame wars fought in magazine letters columns over this point.
That said, the part in question is also commonly referred to as the "crank axle", as indicated HERE.
"Crank Axle" does not appear in Sheldon's glossary, FWIW.
The shaft at the middle of a bearing. There is some controversy as to whether "axle" or "spindle" should be used in particular contexts. The distinction is based on whether the axle/spindle is stationary, as that in a hub, or rotates, as that in a bottom bracket. There have been bitter flame wars fought in magazine letters columns over this point.
That said, the part in question is also commonly referred to as the "crank axle", as indicated HERE.
"Crank Axle" does not appear in Sheldon's glossary, FWIW.
06-04-20, 06:01 PM
#29
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Thread Starter
very very little . only while placing my fingers around the arm and not my whole hand around it did I notice a small bit of play . So you are saying it is the bracket opposed to the crank ? The whole thing needs to come apart right? And the full service is in order .
06-04-20, 06:05 PM
#30
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Thread Starter
the only reason to use loose balls is to be able to use the maximum amount
of balls. cup and cone bottom brackets like yours often use retainers that have
9 balls. some really cheap French retainers only have 7 balls. use retainers that
have 11 balls and you'll have the best of both worlds.
by 78 your Stronglight crank will have the standard 22mm extractor threads.
Park Tools are fine shop quality tools
when Fissile says axle flats he means the part that the crank arm fits onto
axle is incorrect. axles are stationary, spindles turn
of balls. cup and cone bottom brackets like yours often use retainers that have
9 balls. some really cheap French retainers only have 7 balls. use retainers that
have 11 balls and you'll have the best of both worlds.
by 78 your Stronglight crank will have the standard 22mm extractor threads.
Park Tools are fine shop quality tools
when Fissile says axle flats he means the part that the crank arm fits onto
axle is incorrect. axles are stationary, spindles turn
06-04-20, 06:26 PM
#31
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Order 1/4” ball bearings from McMasters or Graingers and you'll be fine. I vote for tearing down and rebuilding the bottom bracket instead of just trying to tighten, wheel hubs and headset as well. After 40 years the grease is going to be shot.
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06-04-20, 07:21 PM
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06-04-20, 08:08 PM
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Take a picture of the drive side crankset, similar to the my profile picture, or a bit closer.
I suggest watching a few videos so you can determine if you want to do it.
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06-04-20, 08:09 PM
#34
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VeloBase.com - Component Listing
if the year is late enough the extractor threads will be standard
22mm but if earlier it would be 23mm and 23.35 respectively. closely measure
the threads b4 buying the tool(crank puller/extractor)
22mm but if earlier it would be 23mm and 23.35 respectively. closely measure
the threads b4 buying the tool(crank puller/extractor)
Last edited by JohnDThompson; 06-04-20 at 08:22 PM.
06-04-20, 08:19 PM
#35
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The nice tools at a reasonable price recommended here in this post ,,by park tool seemed respected.
Source: Sutherland's 4th Edition
Last edited by JohnDThompson; 06-05-20 at 02:42 PM.
06-21-20, 09:34 PM
#36
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A 1978 Stronglight crank will use the proprietary 23.35mm extractor. These turn up on eBay occaissionally, and there's a seller in Poland who makes a double-ended 23mm/23.35mm extractor that works with both TA and Stronglight. It's reasonably priced and has good reviews, but shipping from overseas may be an issue in the current environment. Otherwise, J.A. Stein makes a Stronglight extractor for about the same price here in the USA.
Park doesn't make a vintage-Stronglight compatible extractor. They used to make a double-ended 22mm/23mm extractor, but it has been out of production for at least several decades and only works with 22mm and 23mm (TA only) cranks. Don't use it on a 23.35mm Stronglight crank:
Source: Sutherland's 4th Edition
Park doesn't make a vintage-Stronglight compatible extractor. They used to make a double-ended 22mm/23mm extractor, but it has been out of production for at least several decades and only works with 22mm and 23mm (TA only) cranks. Don't use it on a 23.35mm Stronglight crank:
Source: Sutherland's 4th Edition
This ^^. The bearings should be "Grade 25", which are used in Campagnolo Record and Shimano Dura Ace according to Sheldon Brown's site. (Bearings... 25 1/4" for ~$9.00)
Hello everyone,I didn't get a chance to thank you and send my regards and gratitude.It is my feeling that I would Like to also cover the two hubs and the steering apparatus I'm buying the ball bearings for the bottom bracket I like to know how many bearings in all I need to buy, For all jobs from Sheldon Brown. Do any of you know a good video for me to watch on YouTube I mean one that is particularly good? I'm taking the drivers side part to clean it up . And a vintage simplex chain guard is on the way,from the Bay. The lockring came off for me just turning so I will not need to buy a wrench .
Oh and I ordered on eBay from the Polish man the proper extractor. His handle is ( opti-softlens ) and he has the best one, and is very nice .
Alex
Last edited by Alexthe; 06-21-20 at 11:22 PM.
06-22-20, 05:55 AM
#37
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For the bottom bracket and rear hub, you'll want grade 25, 1/4" balls; 22 (11 on each side) for the bottom bracket, and 18 (9 on each side) for the rear hub. May as well get a bag of 100 if there's a price break. The front hub likely uses 3/16" balls, 10 on each side. What brand/model are the hubs?
06-22-20, 11:55 AM
#38
Senior Member
Hello everyone,I didn't get a chance to thank you and send my regards and gratitude.It is my feeling that I would Like to also cover the two hubs and the steering apparatus I'm buying the ball bearings for the bottom bracket I like to know how many bearings in all I need to buy, For all jobs from Sheldon Brown. Do any of you know a good video for me to watch on YouTube I mean one that is particularly good? I'm taking the drivers side part to clean it up . And a vintage simplex chain guard is on the way,from the Bay. The lockring came off for me just turning so I will not need to buy a wrench .
Oh and I ordered on eBay from the Polish man the proper extractor. His handle is ( opti-softlens ) and he has the best one, and is very nice .
Alex
Oh and I ordered on eBay from the Polish man the proper extractor. His handle is ( opti-softlens ) and he has the best one, and is very nice .
Alex
06-22-20, 09:55 PM
#39
Newbie
Thread Starter
For the bottom bracket and rear hub, you'll want grade 25, 1/4" balls; 22 (11 on each side) for the bottom bracket, and 18 (9 on each side) for the rear hub. May as well get a bag of 100 if there's a price break. The front hub likely uses 3/16" balls, 10 on each side. What brand/model are the hubs?
There "Normandy"'s so the front hub is different . Hopefully I'll be able to speak to someone over the phone to order . There is another thing that bothers me .there is quite a lot of distortion in the front wheel being out of round , but perhaps this is a new post question . One step at a time .
Thank you
Alex
06-23-20, 11:00 PM
#40
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Thread Starter
[QUOTE=Fissile;21547565]
[/QUOTE
Hi thanks for the very good videos .my bike has been indoors most of it's life . But will I need to buy the" fixed cup" tool, I saw him use in the video . ? Or will a wrench probably do ? also I do not have a bike stand and plan on using a large table or the floor . I might get a vice for the table .any thoughts on stabilizing the bike to work on ?It has a kickstand .
Hi thanks for the very good videos .my bike has been indoors most of it's life . But will I need to buy the" fixed cup" tool, I saw him use in the video . ? Or will a wrench probably do ? also I do not have a bike stand and plan on using a large table or the floor . I might get a vice for the table .any thoughts on stabilizing the bike to work on ?It has a kickstand .
06-24-20, 08:33 AM
#41
Senior Member
Hi thanks for the very good videos .my bike has been indoors most of it's life . But will I need to buy the" fixed cup" tool, I saw him use in the video . ? Or will a wrench probably do ? also I do not have a bike stand and plan on using a large table or the floor . I might get a vice for the table .any thoughts on stabilizing the bike to work on ?It has a kickstand .
06-24-20, 07:03 PM
#42
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Thread Starter
I've removed BB cups of this type with channel lock and vise-grip pliers. It all depends on how much corrosion there is....how long it's been since these things were removed for service..if ever. If there's a lot of corrosion you'll need the tools, along with a big hammer, and lots of swearing. As for the best way to work without a bike stand, just flip the bike over on the floor letting it rest on the seat and handlebars.
Swearing, is my second language, after that an insignificant amount of Portuguese, then French.It is a bastard of a language to speak, I hate it. Swearing ,is a separate language, because if you took it literally it would be absurd,
Last edited by Alexthe; 06-24-20 at 07:08 PM.
