Spoke tension chart for wheels.
03-25-20, 06:54 PM
#2
Generally bewildered
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Varies with rim strength. That is, each manufacturer SHOULD publish data on maximum spoke tension for each rim. Some experts advise getting near to that tension. Or getting near the tension that just starts to taco the rim, then backing off. I've built only a couple of wheels but I've read several books on wheelbuilding by experts. There's probably an optimal tension somewhere, but in truth unless you use a wheel in extemis, there is a reasonably wide range of tensions that will give satisfactory performance.
From Roger Musson, in "Pro Wheelbuilding":
"There's a broad range of acceptable tensions and it's easy to drop into this zone and end up with a reliable wheel. Going beyond this and trying for higher tensions does not make a better or stiffer wheel..."
From Roger Musson, in "Pro Wheelbuilding":
"There's a broad range of acceptable tensions and it's easy to drop into this zone and end up with a reliable wheel. Going beyond this and trying for higher tensions does not make a better or stiffer wheel..."
03-26-20, 09:19 AM
#3
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BTW, others may be able to give you a good rule of thumb for spoke tension if you tell them what wheel size and rim size/type and number of spokes/wheel that you are dealing with.
There's a blog here that talks about spoke tension. Suggests a 100kgf tension is a target for many rim/hub makers now. I think that this is for 700c/29er size wheels. Some comments made to that blog suggest that this is too low.
Keep in mind, too, that the spokes have maximum tension. Generally, this is not operative. For example, Sapim's Laser spoke has a round 1.5mm diameter center section. They claim a tensile strength of 1500N/mm^2. That's about 220,000 psi. That's a pretty strong alloy - this is a very high number. I suspect that this is tensile strength (stress required to break) rather than yield strength. If yield strength is 85% of that (1.28GPa, or 186kpsi) it works out that this limit gives you a max of about 230kgf on the spoke before deformation starts to occur. Applying a safety factor of 2, you get a max of about 115kgf. I reckon that this may be around the tension that a lot of folks put on their 1.5mm diameter spokes. Keep in mind that these spokes are from a top manufacturer who knows what they're doing. Spokes from run of the mill, or even worse manufacturers should probably not be this taut.
The point is if you are tightening spokes to near this level, you probably want to make sure you are getting spokes from a good mfr.
There's a blog here that talks about spoke tension. Suggests a 100kgf tension is a target for many rim/hub makers now. I think that this is for 700c/29er size wheels. Some comments made to that blog suggest that this is too low.
Keep in mind, too, that the spokes have maximum tension. Generally, this is not operative. For example, Sapim's Laser spoke has a round 1.5mm diameter center section. They claim a tensile strength of 1500N/mm^2. That's about 220,000 psi. That's a pretty strong alloy - this is a very high number. I suspect that this is tensile strength (stress required to break) rather than yield strength. If yield strength is 85% of that (1.28GPa, or 186kpsi) it works out that this limit gives you a max of about 230kgf on the spoke before deformation starts to occur. Applying a safety factor of 2, you get a max of about 115kgf. I reckon that this may be around the tension that a lot of folks put on their 1.5mm diameter spokes. Keep in mind that these spokes are from a top manufacturer who knows what they're doing. Spokes from run of the mill, or even worse manufacturers should probably not be this taut.
The point is if you are tightening spokes to near this level, you probably want to make sure you are getting spokes from a good mfr.
03-26-20, 10:43 AM
#5
The dropped
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Follow WizardOfBoz's advice. It's unlikely that you'll inadvertently taco your rims during the build; you're more likely to not build with enough tension. If you have access to a tension gauge, use one. With enough practice you might not need it much in the future. Park publishes their tension measurements per spoke type for reference and use with their gauge. Other manufacturers do the same.
03-26-20, 11:08 AM
#7
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Park tool site has their tension card. Google.
I asked Park if they could send me their laminated card. They sent it along with a spoke gauge tool, no charge. Park Tools are not always the best (many are), but their customer service in my experience is definitely the BEST!
https://www.parktool.com/assets/doc/...conv-table.pdf
I asked Park if they could send me their laminated card. They sent it along with a spoke gauge tool, no charge. Park Tools are not always the best (many are), but their customer service in my experience is definitely the BEST!
https://www.parktool.com/assets/doc/...conv-table.pdf
03-26-20, 01:47 PM
#8
Senior Member
I would try for 100kg tension.
Low spoke count wheels require more tension. Trek paired spoke wheels of the early 2000's required about 130 to 140kg.
Low spoke count wheels require more tension. Trek paired spoke wheels of the early 2000's required about 130 to 140kg.
03-26-20, 02:51 PM
#9
Junior Member
Is it dished properly? I wouldn't worry about checking a spoke tension chart if the wheel is dished and true. If the chart tells you that you are off, you might screw up the wheel trying to adjust the tension to the chart. "IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT".
Last edited by hrdknox1; 03-26-20 at 02:54 PM.
03-26-20, 04:02 PM
#11
Junior Member
Let us know what the chart says compared to what the spokes tension measure.
03-26-20, 04:37 PM
#12
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This is the rear wheel, and I just want to make sure the drive side is not crazy high, and or the other side is not too low.
03-26-20, 06:09 PM
#13
Junior Member
I don't profess to be an expert in wheel building, but I have built several wheelsets that have stood the test of time. What I can tell you is that the spoke tension on the drive side can't be off by much if the wheel is dished and true. In my opinion dishing is the most important component when building a wheel. Proper dishing is achieved by tightening the spokes evenly on either side. Once the wheel is dished, the spoke tension on either side should be proper if they are tight.
Last edited by hrdknox1; 03-27-20 at 11:19 AM.
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