non-fixie 

A cool braze-on if you want to run a BB generator:

leicanthrope

I keep finding myself wanting to pronounce "undrew" like "underoo".

uncle uncle

I worked at a bicycle shop in the 80's that carried Austro Daimler/Puch bicycles. I had a bike with a similar color, which I remember being described as "Burnt Sugar". A translucent brown with maroon undertones. I cant clearly remember if that came from an official catalog or not.

mrHix01

yes! I love the chain hanger on my schwinn super sport Tange frame. It's very handy for rear wheel removal. Just remember to take the chain off before pedaling.

GrayJay

all is forgiven if you apply reproduction AD decals over the fresh paint!

jtgotsjets

Maybe I'm veering this thread off-topic, but enough folks have mentioned it that I gotta ask about it: seriously, what's the deal with chain hanger brazeons?

They've been on both road bikes I've owned (Centurion Ironman and Miele Azsora) and I've never gotten them to do anything particularly handy. Am I doing something wrong? I usually snag the top stretch of chain on the hanger while I remove/replace the rear wheel, but I don't really see what good it does me. I still have to get my hands dirty hanging the chain, the top stretch of chain never gets in the way nearly as much as the bottom stretch+derailleur and the chain pops off the dang thing 90% of the time anyway, always right in the middle of wheel removal/replacement.

So seriously, am I doing it wrong?

TimmyT 

No, that's it. It's not so effective, but it does help a little bit in realigning the chain when you get it back on. There's also less flopping around when the wheel is off.

Mr IGH

I took the time to strip the paint, ~5 hours of ugly labor. This task could make "Dirty Jobs the Hobby Version". I used ZipStrip in a well ventilated garage.


I brushed it on and waited for it to work. This frame's 35 year old enamel was as tough a strip job I've done. Took three hours of scraping and reapplying to get most of it and a few more hours of synthetic steel wool and pocket knife work to get all the nooks and crannies.





The finished product. Almost too beautiful to cover with paint. The workmanship of this brand was some of the best in the world, including Japan. Fully silver brazed, even the dropouts.









Next comes the Oxcylic Acid dip and then I'm brushing on the finish as per Randy J's web page:
PAINTING BICYCLES - INTRODUCTION

I'm using clean metal white primer instead of the rusty surface red primer because white primer really make the paint color pop. The oil based Rust Oleum brush-on paints will dry properly in 24 hours (as opposed to spray can paint with fish oil as the base, takes months to dry) I bought Red and Yellow to mix and make Orange as a homage to my racing bike I traded for this frame.

Munny

?? why are people coming to me to remove later additions to old frames ?

Mr IGH

Drew, is that you?

Mr IGH

I finished this up at the beginning of July and promptly joined a local riding club. My goal was to get in shape to ride their century ride Labor Day weekend, which I was able to complete on this bike (first one since 1987).

I have over 1000 miles on this bike and I have become fond of the 72* HTA combined with a short rake. It's very stable crawling up the steep hills and going down them at speeds exceeding 45mph. I have no doubt that a modern 18lbs bike wouldn't make any difference in my speed or ability to keep up. With 20 aero spoke wheels I have 95% of a modern bike's advantages. More important is the 9 speed brifters and triple crank. I like the triple because it gives me three sets of gears with a wide range and much less need for double front/back shifts to get the gear i need at the time. Also nice to have as I climb to 8,500 feet with flat-lander lungs. This is my first brifter road bike, I find they allow an old fart such as myself to concentrate on riding and not shifting. After 1000 miles I'm finally learning to use the indicators on the brifters instead of looking down at the chainrings and cassette to see what gear I'm in. Who says and old dog can't learn a few new tricks.

I spent about $400 putting this together, I did have the wheels/tubes/tires/cassette already. Total cash outlay including wheels from 2 years ago is less than $650.

The brush on paint is good looking from far but far from looking good. If I was to do it over, I would go with a good powder coater. I ended up with very visible brush strokes, I should have thinned the paint far beyond the max 5% specified by Rust-Oleum. Cost me ~$40 for paint and supplies, powder coating could be as low as $75.

I went with Tiagra 9 speed brifters (3x in front), derailleurs, cassette (14-25) and Tiagra 50/39/30 crankset. I bought everything on the cheap from ebay. The wheels are 20 spoke Mavic Aksiums I bought a few years ago from REI with my dividend and 20% discount. I had a set of Tektro brakes laying around that just fit the 57mm drop, I did have to convert the frame to allen head brake bolts. A Velo Orange stem adapter allowed easy swapping on the stem length so I could get the fit just right. Nitto Randonneur Road Bar in 44mm and a double layer of foam tape help keep the hands from going numb. A 27.2mm seat post from the parts bin and WTB seat for my tender behind. Old school TA cages and the A-D OEM headset just to finish off the look. It tips the scales at 24lbs with 28mm Kevlar Paselas.

















Best part of riding this bike is the conversations it starts. Even though most riders are on a modern aluminum/CF frames they love to ask about this bike and how I got it.

Reynolds 

Very nice, and it's unique, you custom built it. Nitpick: I'm not sure about the stem, though.

Zaphod Beeblebrox 

I like the bits you added on. Too bad the paint had to be lost in the process. I have an identical Inter-10 and I love that strange purple-burgundy paint job

Mr IGH

When I started riding this bike I wanted to be able to swap the stem length easily so I could get the fit correct. Now that I have it where I want I'm too lazy and cheap to buy a nice Nitto and re-tape the bars. So that's how it'll look for the next few months until I retire it for the season (and start riding my modernized 73 Super Course Gravel Grinder with drum brake hubs, but that for another thread).

I loved that paint color and all the pin stripes when I first saw this bike in 1978. Unfortunately, this bike sat in a shed and all the chrome cable retainers/stops/guides rusted the paint away, it was roached (as they used to say back in 1978). That's why I went with the braze-ons. If the paint was nice (not perfect, just nice) I would have left it and used bolt on guides etc.

Zaphod Beeblebrox 

well if you need another of these in the same size with decent original paint let me know ;-)

never heard "roached" applied to bikes ;-) ....other stuff, yes. lol

unworthy1

I'd say let the paint cure for another few months and then rub it out with first rubbing compound and then polishing compound. if it's super strok-ie maybe some careful wet-sanding with 600 paper first. That's the beauty of brush painting: lay it on thick and rub it out until smooth as baby's *ss.

dicktill

Very nice! Where did you get the braze-ons, especially the water bottle cage ones?

Thanks, Dick

The Golden Boy 

Great job with stuff!

Those braze ons totally make sense to have- they're little things that we've come to think of as standard equipment.

The original paint with the Austro Daimler graphics and box lining was really cool.

Mr IGH

Nova:
Cycle Frame Tubing :: Nova Cycles Supply Inc. :: The Framebuilder's Source" is the dominant supplier of cycle frame building materials in North America

If all you want are H2O bosses there's rivenuts, no damage to paint.

dicktill

Thanks! Dick

mrv 

a question I hope is relevant to this thread, and one i have been searching a good answer for here in the forums:
If the original paint is so difficult to remove, then why not leave it in place as much as is feasible?

Similar to the OP - I've got a $25 C.L. Nishiki frame/fork I am going to add DT shifter bosses, rack bosses, and a bottle bosses to.


I've already been through two frames where I stripped them down to steel (as close as I could) and rattle canned one and powder coated (myself) the other. Both were first time efforts. The second one involving adding braze ons, something I was also attempting the first time.
The spray came out OK, the powder coat... looks like a first time effort by somebody getting fed up stripping a bike to bare steel.

So my question goes - if I add the bosses to the next project (Nishiki-san), sand off the damaged paint; smooth the frame/fork with emery clothe; them primer, what's my risk of leaving the old, really difficult to remove, paint?

My plan is to spray engine enamel, at the moment anyway.

ps - on a painted frame, brazing would be done with a respirator after sanding paint away from the braze area; and also wear a respirator when spray painting: VOCs and nasty fumes = bad news for this middle aged biker (my lungs have taken care of me for 45 years, i'll take care of them for the next 45)

Mr IGH

I will never paint another resto project, IMO a good powder coater is the only way to go. Trying to cut corners hasn't worked for me. Painting over old paint with rattle can paint will waste all your efforts. Chips and scratches will show the old paint, within days you'll regret not going with a professional powder coat.

ericbaker

Ditto, over the bb guids are often too flexy and don't work well with indexed/sti shifting in my experience. not to say that it cant/shouldn't be done. but theres a reason everything switched over

mrv 

@Mr IGH - how's the index shifting with those cable guides? The Nishiki I'm about to has them, and I've never ridden a bike with them. I was not planning on removing them at this time, but I am planning on added a second set of bottle bosses and rack bosses. If I keep it, I may add canti lever brake braze ons and get it powder coated.
It might be apparent I'm a bit undecided what I want to do with it besides get it built up and ride it.....
The finish on it is rough, so I'm good spending $30 or so in spray paint, but not ready to spend $140 in a powder coat job.

Mr IGH

Index shifting works perfectly after a few thousand miles of club rides, not just riding on the MUP. BB cable guides were dumped for labor, cost and quality, there's no flexing. Look closely at the rear guide, how in the heck would that flex? If your bike doesn't have cool Campy BB guides I guess you have to make up a story....