Lucky Skunk - Peroni's De Rosa
#27
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Lucky Skunk
Is fine with me. I don't know how to use the forum correctly, and get logged out, probably because it take too long for me to write much of anything at all.
It posted twice, usually if I go advanced, and preview regularly, I can post something, not that I have much knowledge of bicycles to contribute.
Motorex Oil of Switzerland, protect & shine 645, for all metal, plastic and varnish surfaces. It's seems oily, but I don't think it can damage much, don't spray on brakes.
I can't guess what sort paint was used on the De Rosa, enamel maybe.
Is fine with me. I don't know how to use the forum correctly, and get logged out, probably because it take too long for me to write much of anything at all.
It posted twice, usually if I go advanced, and preview regularly, I can post something, not that I have much knowledge of bicycles to contribute.
Motorex Oil of Switzerland, protect & shine 645, for all metal, plastic and varnish surfaces. It's seems oily, but I don't think it can damage much, don't spray on brakes.
I can't guess what sort paint was used on the De Rosa, enamel maybe.
Last edited by Peroni; 04-01-21 at 01:17 AM. Reason: twin posting
#28
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Lucky Skunk
Is hard for me to get away from, I was looking for a good bicycle that would fit me better than the 58x57 Guerciotti Sprint.
And not ultra high performance, intended for a powerful rider.
I couldn't find anything that I liked in 56cm, and shipped to my doorstep.
So I tried to win this auction, I didn't know that much about it, other than it almost had to be worth two thousand or more, to me certainly.
Is hard for me to get away from, I was looking for a good bicycle that would fit me better than the 58x57 Guerciotti Sprint.
And not ultra high performance, intended for a powerful rider.
I couldn't find anything that I liked in 56cm, and shipped to my doorstep.
So I tried to win this auction, I didn't know that much about it, other than it almost had to be worth two thousand or more, to me certainly.
#29
Forum Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kalamazoo MI
Posts: 20,628
Bikes: Fuji SL2.1 Carbon Di2 Cannondale Synapse Alloy 4 Trek Checkpoint ALR-5 Viscount Aerospace Pro Colnago Classic Rabobank Schwinn Waterford PMount Raleigh C50 Cromoly Hybrid Legnano Tipo Roma Pista
Mentioned: 58 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3085 Post(s)
Liked 6,561 Times
in
3,763 Posts
When you log in, please check the box next to Remember Me. Doing that will help you stay logged in.
__________________
#30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Those rims look like they have 13 mm between the beads, which is pretty typical for "narrow" rims. I wouldn't have a problem mounting and riding up to 32 or 33 mm tires on them; if you go wider then you can ride them at a somewhat lower pressure than narrower tires, which would be more comfortable. 28 mm is a common size, and should fit almost any bike, 32 also very common, 30 available but less common. Rivendell Bike Works sells a nice 33(.33) mm tire, ("Jack Brown Green", with more flat-resistant blue also available if you live in glass- or goathead-ridden territory -- has a great and unusual low-profile checkerboard tread pattern). What will probably limit you will be the clearance between the chainstays (just behind the bottom bracket) and the rear tire. Sometimes front tire clearance is the limiting factor (between fork blades or crown extensions onto blades), but much less often. You measure tire clearance (for a 700C rim) by choosing a station about 340 mm ahead (rear) or above (front) the axle position and using a metric ruler or tape (or, preferably, a dial or digital caliper) to gauge the width there. Another way is to fold a piece of paper or card, trial and error, until it just fits there, and then measure that with a ruler. Some people are leery of leaving less than 3 mm per side clearance; personally I've gone down to 1 mm per side if the wheel is true, and you're careful when adjusting the stops.
"Racing" bikes from the 70s onward are often clearance-challenged, because very few people (designers or buyers) valued having wider tires, which have only recently become regarded as a "good thing" by a enough people to sway the bike-making establishment in a limited way. The only recourse, when confronted with this in a frame one already owns, is to be sure to get high-quality tires with well-designed sidewalls that deform readily under load (read: more expensive). I would replace tubes, as well as tires if one of them is gone and the other rotted, and anyway a wider tire will need a different tube. I tend to use tubes on the "small" size for a given tire (at the top end of a tube's scheduled width range, or even a bit over it) -- the tube will have no trouble expanding a bit more, and smaller section tubes are lighter, and in my opinion much easier to handle when mounting tires.
I apologize for my tone yesterday -- your post just nicked a nerve, though I did try to be helpful, despite my pique. Please do not hesitate to ask questions here -- you will receive useful answers for the most part.
BTW, note the seeming lack of any real wear on the brake tracks of those rims. My guess is that whoever originally owned that bike used it very little -- perhaps it was a "trophy bike". That's good for you. Too bad about the damage to the saddle; maybe not critical, and probably a garage handling whoopsie/dammit. Your new bike has, of course, no provisions for mounting fenders, which are very useful to keep your bum dry and the bike much cleaner on a wet road. I realize that you live in the "Sunshine State", but I lived there a couple summers, and got plenty drenched! If and when it comes to that, there are ways of getting around the lack of fender mounting eyelets (plastic or nylon "P-clips), unless the radial clearance at fork crown, brakes and bridges (between stays) are simply too close.
"Racing" bikes from the 70s onward are often clearance-challenged, because very few people (designers or buyers) valued having wider tires, which have only recently become regarded as a "good thing" by a enough people to sway the bike-making establishment in a limited way. The only recourse, when confronted with this in a frame one already owns, is to be sure to get high-quality tires with well-designed sidewalls that deform readily under load (read: more expensive). I would replace tubes, as well as tires if one of them is gone and the other rotted, and anyway a wider tire will need a different tube. I tend to use tubes on the "small" size for a given tire (at the top end of a tube's scheduled width range, or even a bit over it) -- the tube will have no trouble expanding a bit more, and smaller section tubes are lighter, and in my opinion much easier to handle when mounting tires.
I apologize for my tone yesterday -- your post just nicked a nerve, though I did try to be helpful, despite my pique. Please do not hesitate to ask questions here -- you will receive useful answers for the most part.
BTW, note the seeming lack of any real wear on the brake tracks of those rims. My guess is that whoever originally owned that bike used it very little -- perhaps it was a "trophy bike". That's good for you. Too bad about the damage to the saddle; maybe not critical, and probably a garage handling whoopsie/dammit. Your new bike has, of course, no provisions for mounting fenders, which are very useful to keep your bum dry and the bike much cleaner on a wet road. I realize that you live in the "Sunshine State", but I lived there a couple summers, and got plenty drenched! If and when it comes to that, there are ways of getting around the lack of fender mounting eyelets (plastic or nylon "P-clips), unless the radial clearance at fork crown, brakes and bridges (between stays) are simply too close.
I'm squeamish about disassembling it for fresh grease, what I might do first, is disassemble the Guerciotti for grease, I've worked on it before, and I can practice on it, plus it needs tires.
I'm in SW FL, it's flat and I hardly need more than a single gear, the roads are good, but a sidewalk bike path has to be navigated, off and on, to get very far.
I doubt if I would ride it in the rainy season, I saw one of those specialized District Bicycles, with a belt drive, and wished I could buy one. I don't know what the belt drive is really like, though.
I am reading what you write, I haven't ordered anything yet, but I'm trying to get started on it. Before a few days ago, I didn't know of suppliers other than Jenson, that I might try to buy from.
Likes For jiangshi:
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fredericksburg, Va
Posts: 9,579
Bikes: '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, '94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster, Tern Link D8
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1607 Post(s)
Liked 2,213 Times
in
1,103 Posts
#34
Banned.
It's not the top/side clearance, it's getting an inflated 25c tire past the dropouts and not smashed into the seat tube. I tried 25s, and had to partially deflate the rear tire to get it in. Once it's in, no problem.
Last edited by jiangshi; 04-01-21 at 12:20 PM.
#35
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks, I looked at the bike photos on Flickr, and the full picture of your De Rosa Professional. I see Super Record, the saddle is interesting to me, and it looks good, your Professional looks set up to ride more comfortable, and practical.
The Classico has an odd drop bar, and I suspect the brakes are set up for a low hand position. The torn saddle may be comfortable, but something is off with the lines, I was thinking of replacing it with a brown leather Brooks.
I don't know enough to comment on much of anything, I don't even know what TSX tubing is, exactly. And one model is a Pro and maybe a different model is a Professional, I don't know the difference between them.
I would almost bet that the rotten front tire on the Classico is 23mm, thats wide enough, and the bike will look the way it's supposed to.
The Classico has an odd drop bar, and I suspect the brakes are set up for a low hand position. The torn saddle may be comfortable, but something is off with the lines, I was thinking of replacing it with a brown leather Brooks.
I don't know enough to comment on much of anything, I don't even know what TSX tubing is, exactly. And one model is a Pro and maybe a different model is a Professional, I don't know the difference between them.
I would almost bet that the rotten front tire on the Classico is 23mm, thats wide enough, and the bike will look the way it's supposed to.
Last edited by Peroni; 04-02-21 at 02:33 AM. Reason: ignorance
#36
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks, I had forgotten that wheel has to move forward to get it out of the frame. Mostly, I'll try to use the same width as the old front tire.
#37
Junior Member
Thread Starter
When I was looking at bicycles, a De Rosa Protos is listed for sale, with the saddle well above the handlebars. I could ride it, and would like riding it, and I might look good on fast forward video.
There is a video of a strong rider demonstrating what the bicycle is capable of, and I can't compare to him at all, even when I was his age, is what I was thinking.
There is a video of a strong rider demonstrating what the bicycle is capable of, and I can't compare to him at all, even when I was his age, is what I was thinking.
#38
Full Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Tropical Montana
Posts: 401
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 225 Post(s)
Liked 1,101 Times
in
327 Posts
Beautiful bike. I love the mid 90s De Rosas. If I would’ve seen it on eBay, I would’ve been bidding. Sounds like it ended up in good hands. If you haven’t ridden for some time, I’d suggest replacing the pedals with a set of platform or hybrid pedals to start. I like the Shimano m324 spd - versatile and looks vintage.
__________________
Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
#39
Senior Member
When I was looking at bicycles, a De Rosa Protos is listed for sale, with the saddle well above the handlebars. I could ride it, and would like riding it, and I might look good on fast forward video.
There is a video of a strong rider demonstrating what the bicycle is capable of, and I can't compare to him at all, even when I was his age, is what I was thinking.
There is a video of a strong rider demonstrating what the bicycle is capable of, and I can't compare to him at all, even when I was his age, is what I was thinking.
As for the bike you purchased (and other similar ones), my perspective is that until relatively recently, grand tours were won on bikes that were certainly no better than that. It’s a lot of bike for virtually any rider.
#40
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I get it. The typical modern pro bike setup looks to me like it would be fun to ride for a couple miles. After that my back would be in spasm.
As for the bike you purchased (and other similar ones), my perspective is that until relatively recently, grand tours were won on bikes that were certainly no better than that. It’s a lot of bike for virtually any rider.
As for the bike you purchased (and other similar ones), my perspective is that until relatively recently, grand tours were won on bikes that were certainly no better than that. It’s a lot of bike for virtually any rider.
Something about the shape of the bar and location of the brake levers doesn't look like hands on top is safe or practical.
#41
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Beautiful bike. I love the mid 90s De Rosas. If I would’ve seen it on eBay, I would’ve been bidding. Sounds like it ended up in good hands. If you haven’t ridden for some time, I’d suggest replacing the pedals with a set of platform or hybrid pedals to start. I like the Shimano m324 spd - versatile and looks vintage.
They seem to work for me, but they're mostly smooth, maybe I just haven't slipped off of them yet.