benpiner

I'm planning to upgrade a 1984 Trek 660, and I'm looking for some advice on what components to use. Previous rebuilds I've done have been with mostly Sram components, but I'm leaning toward Campy. Any specific suggestions? Planning to replace pretty much everything.

(I can't post images or links apparently. Otherwise I'd link to the specs for this bike on vintagetrek)

Questions:
Is it safe to assume the bottom bracket is English?
I can measure soon, but does anyone know the bottom bracket shell size? 68mm or 70mm?
Anything I should keep in mind regarding spacing for the wheelset?
Front derailleur clamp should be 28.6mm right? Should I just get a shim and use a new 31.8mm clamp?

Thanks

AnkleWork

You should just measure (unless you prefer anonymous wild guesses).

Unca_Sam

Since you have a Trek that's more than 30 years old, try looking up the catalog on Vintage Trek. You should be able to find the components and geometry, at least, and from there figure out your questions, including answers to questions you haven't asked yet. You should still measure all the parts you plan on replacing, regardless of information in a catalog.

Why upgrade when you can restore it? Other threads indicate that the bike was equipped with Campy components. The good news is that you might not need to do much. The bad news is that the Campagnolo name will carry a premium for NOS or used components that are still out there.

ironwood

You might get more advice on the Classic and Vintage forum. Of course most people will advise you to restore.

benpiner

Won't have the bike for a few weeks... hoping to order parts before it arrives.

benpiner

Thanks.

HillRider

Don't. You can't be sure what you are getting and you may be (pleasantly or unpleasantly) surprised. Wait until you have the actual bike.

BTW, as recommended, look up the 1984 Trek catalog on the Vintage Trek web site. All the OEM specs are there.

Yes, the BB is English threaded and 68 mm. Rear spacing is 126 mm (6/7-speed) and it came with 700c wheels. The original components were Campy New Record. It was one of Treks higher line bikes at the time but of course the components are very dated by now. If the one you get is in good shape and the frame is sound, you have the base for a fine ride.

benpiner

Thank you. Super helpful.

JohnDThompson 

No Trek of that era used anything other than a 68mm shell and English thread.

Assuming no previous owner has cold-set the frame otherwise, it should have 126mm OLD spacing.

The seat tube is 1-1/8" or 28.6mm. If you want to use a 31.8mm derailleur, you will need a shim.

benpiner

Super helpful. Thanks again. Last question: Can anyone confirm the crown race size for this bike?

HillRider

I can't be absolutely certain but my '83 Trek 400 had a 1" ISO headset and the crown race was 26.4 mm ID. I'd be very surprised if your frame is any different.

Once again, wait until you have the actual bike before you order any new parts. It's possible a former owner installed a new fork with a JIS crown race seat. Not likely but possible so wait.

JohnDThompson 

Assuming original fork, it should be 26.4mm

benpiner

Thanks for the help. I'm still trying to wrap my head around the exact Shimano/Sram external bottom bracket that'll be compatible with a 68mm shell/english thread. Any rules to follow here?

dedhed

The crank chosen will determine what BB you need.

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...i-s-ergos.html

caloso

Any standard English BB, including Sram GXP or Shimano Hollowtech II, will fit.

benpiner

Hi HillRider,
This groupset just went up for sale on Craigslist, and I'm wondering if I can find a bottom bracket (168mm English) that's compatible with it. Thoughts?

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sg...018577664.html

HillRider

The bottom bracket cup are included in that groupset, they are the empty cups just above the derailleurs. The bearings on those Campy cranks are on the crank spindles themselves. Assuming the cups are English threaded you are good to go.

Once again, do you now have the frame and fork? Assuming the frame is original, the rear dropout spacing is 126 mm and that group will require a 130 mm rear wheel. You will either have to force the wheel into place each time, which is not that difficult, or have the frame "cold set" (read bent) to 130 mm.

zacster

I don't understand why you would buy a vintage bike if you want a (semi) modern set of components on it. If you wanted a restored vintage bike with original components I understand, or if you already have a bike/frame that you want to upgrade I understand. But to buy an old bike and then upgrade everything? You could have just bought something newer that already worked with these components. Chorus 10 is already 15+ years old and as I have that on my bike, I can tell you new cassettes get expensive, although just about everything else can be bought used. And one other note, if you want a 50/34 crank instead of the 53/39, you'll be looking around for a while. Campy wasn't big on compact cranks.

Another thing to consider are the bars. If this bike has old style bars vs. newer ones contoured for brifters, you'll never get things positioned correctly. I have a modern brake lever on an old style bar and it is awkward, but that doesn't include the shifter. It'll work it just won't be optimal.

And don't get me wrong, I upgraded an old Trek MTB to 10sp myself so I know how tempting it is, but it wasn't the intent to do this. I just wanted better brakes (canti to v-brakes), which led to new levers, which led to new shifters, which led to new derailleur, which led to going to 10sp, which led to new cassette and chain, which led to new wheels. It was my commuter bike and was used a lot, the 10sp wasn't really necessary but the system works really well, I could stop on a dime, and I also added dynamo lighting on the new front wheel. It looks like crap so it won't get stolen so readily but rides like a modern bike.