Just how big is the Miyata Cult?
05-11-19, 09:54 AM
#676
Jedi Master
I liked my Aspin so much when it was new that I got an Aravis for another bike. What you call broken in I call worn out. I don't think it's that comfortable anymore, so I'm still trying to decide if I like the saddle enough to replace the leather every other year. In the meantime I'm using other saddles that last longer.
05-12-19, 07:14 PM
#677
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First- Congratulations! The Miyata 1000 is a "lifetime bike." This is a 1985 model- it's a pretty slick model. It's a triple butted frame with Deore XT and 600/Ultegra components- from back when Deore XT was the top of the line. So basically it was a top of the line frame with top of the line and 2nd from top of the line components. It was pretty close to a flagship model bike. IMO- a bike of this caliber is as capable as any modern tourer, while being much more elegant and graceful.
https://www.ragandbone.ca/PDFs/Miyat...logue%2085.pdf
This would have come with 700c wheels with a 5 speed rear end. My guess is it was probably spaced around 126. Just a guess- but you'd probably be able to get a 130 in there without much trouble- so yes- you could go to 10 speed with this frame- I'm running a 10 speed 130 hub on a 1985 frame. However, this bike is equipped with friction bar end shifters- these shifter do not have the fine tuning ability to accurately shift between the cogs on a 10 speed spaced cog.
This is a "grail" level touring bike. It's a "touring bike." It's not a "go fast" bike. Touring bikes generally have brakes that are more robust than "racing" style bikes. They're meant to stop a bike, a rider and a rider's touring load. This bike has Shimano XT cantilever brakes- among the very best brakes ever made. If you were to switch to Ultegra side pull brakes- it probably wouldn't have the stopping power of properly set up cantilevers. Additionally, you'd have the unused cantilever bosses sticking out of the fork and stays- and that would look stupid. Not only would it look stupid, but it would also broadcast that the owner was stupid enough to not use cantilever brakes.
While I believe people may underestimate the handling of touring frames as heavy and slow- I think you should also realize these bikes were meant to haul heavy loads over great distances. They were not built to be lightweight, "quick" handling, or particularly nimble. This may not be the ideal bike to have a powermeter on. You may like the BioPace rings, you may not, or you may not notice the difference.
IMO/IME- this is a bike to have wide tires on (in excess of 32mm- more like 35 or so).
This is a bike that was meant to have around a 26 pound fighting weight. If you're expecting this bike to handle and respond like a 21 pound racing bike- you may be disappointed.
You have a full-on touring bike with a full compliment of custom sized racks that were designed and fitted to this bike. To remove them kind of neuters what this bike is about. The rear racks look to be custom fitted to this size frame with the rack bosses in that particular location.
You also may wish to remove and set aside the Miyata Radial tires- of if you're into parting out your stuff- the Miyata Radial tires are pretty unique and could possibly bring some decent money.
People that are into "modern" bikes don't often understand how awesome the Mirrycle mirror for non-aero levers actually are. They look really old fashioned- but they ALWAYS point directly behind you- regardless of which way your head is turned- and it's just a quick flick of your eyes- you don't need to look for and locate the mirror, then think of where the mirror is pointing.. you glance at the mirror and you know where it's pointing and immediately see what's behind you.
You have a REALLY REALLY desirable bike- based on your questions and comments- it seems that this bike may not be particularly good fit for you. I would urge you to evaluate what that bike was created to do- vs. what you expect that bike to do. There's a good chance you could meet in the middle- but I would also not try to fit the square peg into the round hole.
best!
https://www.ragandbone.ca/PDFs/Miyat...logue%2085.pdf
This would have come with 700c wheels with a 5 speed rear end. My guess is it was probably spaced around 126. Just a guess- but you'd probably be able to get a 130 in there without much trouble- so yes- you could go to 10 speed with this frame- I'm running a 10 speed 130 hub on a 1985 frame. However, this bike is equipped with friction bar end shifters- these shifter do not have the fine tuning ability to accurately shift between the cogs on a 10 speed spaced cog.
This is a "grail" level touring bike. It's a "touring bike." It's not a "go fast" bike. Touring bikes generally have brakes that are more robust than "racing" style bikes. They're meant to stop a bike, a rider and a rider's touring load. This bike has Shimano XT cantilever brakes- among the very best brakes ever made. If you were to switch to Ultegra side pull brakes- it probably wouldn't have the stopping power of properly set up cantilevers. Additionally, you'd have the unused cantilever bosses sticking out of the fork and stays- and that would look stupid. Not only would it look stupid, but it would also broadcast that the owner was stupid enough to not use cantilever brakes.
While I believe people may underestimate the handling of touring frames as heavy and slow- I think you should also realize these bikes were meant to haul heavy loads over great distances. They were not built to be lightweight, "quick" handling, or particularly nimble. This may not be the ideal bike to have a powermeter on. You may like the BioPace rings, you may not, or you may not notice the difference.
IMO/IME- this is a bike to have wide tires on (in excess of 32mm- more like 35 or so).
This is a bike that was meant to have around a 26 pound fighting weight. If you're expecting this bike to handle and respond like a 21 pound racing bike- you may be disappointed.
You have a full-on touring bike with a full compliment of custom sized racks that were designed and fitted to this bike. To remove them kind of neuters what this bike is about. The rear racks look to be custom fitted to this size frame with the rack bosses in that particular location.
You also may wish to remove and set aside the Miyata Radial tires- of if you're into parting out your stuff- the Miyata Radial tires are pretty unique and could possibly bring some decent money.
People that are into "modern" bikes don't often understand how awesome the Mirrycle mirror for non-aero levers actually are. They look really old fashioned- but they ALWAYS point directly behind you- regardless of which way your head is turned- and it's just a quick flick of your eyes- you don't need to look for and locate the mirror, then think of where the mirror is pointing.. you glance at the mirror and you know where it's pointing and immediately see what's behind you.
You have a REALLY REALLY desirable bike- based on your questions and comments- it seems that this bike may not be particularly good fit for you. I would urge you to evaluate what that bike was created to do- vs. what you expect that bike to do. There's a good chance you could meet in the middle- but I would also not try to fit the square peg into the round hole.
best!
05-13-19, 01:22 PM
#678
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cambridge UK
Posts: 1,667
Bikes: Trek Emonda SL6 .... Miyata One Thousand
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First- Congratulations! The Miyata 1000 is a "lifetime bike." This is a 1985 model- it's a pretty slick model. It's a triple butted frame with Deore XT and 600/Ultegra components- from back when Deore XT was the top of the line. So basically it was a top of the line frame with top of the line and 2nd from top of the line components. It was pretty close to a flagship model bike. IMO- a bike of this caliber is as capable as any modern tourer, while being much more elegant and graceful.
https://www.ragandbone.ca/PDFs/Miyat...logue%2085.pdf
This would have come with 700c wheels with a 5 speed rear end. My guess is it was probably spaced around 126. Just a guess- but you'd probably be able to get a 130 in there without much trouble- so yes- you could go to 10 speed with this frame- I'm running a 10 speed 130 hub on a 1985 frame. However, this bike is equipped with friction bar end shifters- these shifter do not have the fine tuning ability to accurately shift between the cogs on a 10 speed spaced cog.
This is a "grail" level touring bike. It's a "touring bike." It's not a "go fast" bike. Touring bikes generally have brakes that are more robust than "racing" style bikes. They're meant to stop a bike, a rider and a rider's touring load. This bike has Shimano XT cantilever brakes- among the very best brakes ever made. If you were to switch to Ultegra side pull brakes- it probably wouldn't have the stopping power of properly set up cantilevers. Additionally, you'd have the unused cantilever bosses sticking out of the fork and stays- and that would look stupid. Not only would it look stupid, but it would also broadcast that the owner was stupid enough to not use cantilever brakes.
While I believe people may underestimate the handling of touring frames as heavy and slow- I think you should also realize these bikes were meant to haul heavy loads over great distances. They were not built to be lightweight, "quick" handling, or particularly nimble. This may not be the ideal bike to have a powermeter on. You may like the BioPace rings, you may not, or you may not notice the difference.
IMO/IME- this is a bike to have wide tires on (in excess of 32mm- more like 35 or so).
This is a bike that was meant to have around a 26 pound fighting weight. If you're expecting this bike to handle and respond like a 21 pound racing bike- you may be disappointed.
You have a full-on touring bike with a full compliment of custom sized racks that were designed and fitted to this bike. To remove them kind of neuters what this bike is about. The rear racks look to be custom fitted to this size frame with the rack bosses in that particular location.
You also may wish to remove and set aside the Miyata Radial tires- of if you're into parting out your stuff- the Miyata Radial tires are pretty unique and could possibly bring some decent money.
People that are into "modern" bikes don't often understand how awesome the Mirrycle mirror for non-aero levers actually are. They look really old fashioned- but they ALWAYS point directly behind you- regardless of which way your head is turned- and it's just a quick flick of your eyes- you don't need to look for and locate the mirror, then think of where the mirror is pointing.. you glance at the mirror and you know where it's pointing and immediately see what's behind you.
You have a REALLY REALLY desirable bike- based on your questions and comments- it seems that this bike may not be particularly good fit for you. I would urge you to evaluate what that bike was created to do- vs. what you expect that bike to do. There's a good chance you could meet in the middle- but I would also not try to fit the square peg into the round hole.
best!
https://www.ragandbone.ca/PDFs/Miyat...logue%2085.pdf
This would have come with 700c wheels with a 5 speed rear end. My guess is it was probably spaced around 126. Just a guess- but you'd probably be able to get a 130 in there without much trouble- so yes- you could go to 10 speed with this frame- I'm running a 10 speed 130 hub on a 1985 frame. However, this bike is equipped with friction bar end shifters- these shifter do not have the fine tuning ability to accurately shift between the cogs on a 10 speed spaced cog.
This is a "grail" level touring bike. It's a "touring bike." It's not a "go fast" bike. Touring bikes generally have brakes that are more robust than "racing" style bikes. They're meant to stop a bike, a rider and a rider's touring load. This bike has Shimano XT cantilever brakes- among the very best brakes ever made. If you were to switch to Ultegra side pull brakes- it probably wouldn't have the stopping power of properly set up cantilevers. Additionally, you'd have the unused cantilever bosses sticking out of the fork and stays- and that would look stupid. Not only would it look stupid, but it would also broadcast that the owner was stupid enough to not use cantilever brakes.
While I believe people may underestimate the handling of touring frames as heavy and slow- I think you should also realize these bikes were meant to haul heavy loads over great distances. They were not built to be lightweight, "quick" handling, or particularly nimble. This may not be the ideal bike to have a powermeter on. You may like the BioPace rings, you may not, or you may not notice the difference.
IMO/IME- this is a bike to have wide tires on (in excess of 32mm- more like 35 or so).
This is a bike that was meant to have around a 26 pound fighting weight. If you're expecting this bike to handle and respond like a 21 pound racing bike- you may be disappointed.
You have a full-on touring bike with a full compliment of custom sized racks that were designed and fitted to this bike. To remove them kind of neuters what this bike is about. The rear racks look to be custom fitted to this size frame with the rack bosses in that particular location.
You also may wish to remove and set aside the Miyata Radial tires- of if you're into parting out your stuff- the Miyata Radial tires are pretty unique and could possibly bring some decent money.
People that are into "modern" bikes don't often understand how awesome the Mirrycle mirror for non-aero levers actually are. They look really old fashioned- but they ALWAYS point directly behind you- regardless of which way your head is turned- and it's just a quick flick of your eyes- you don't need to look for and locate the mirror, then think of where the mirror is pointing.. you glance at the mirror and you know where it's pointing and immediately see what's behind you.
You have a REALLY REALLY desirable bike- based on your questions and comments- it seems that this bike may not be particularly good fit for you. I would urge you to evaluate what that bike was created to do- vs. what you expect that bike to do. There's a good chance you could meet in the middle- but I would also not try to fit the square peg into the round hole.
best!
I know that this is not a 'fast bike' .... I used to own a Surly LHT with 26 inch wheels and rode many miles on it
I was looking for a bike for commuting (40+km/day), a winter bike with mudguards and dynamo lights (I leave home every morning at 5am 12 months a year) and for some Audax rides. Most/many of the guys who ride Audax in the UK use old bikes (Bob Jackson, Carlton, Raleigh, Hetchins etc etc), and some of the newer bikes that many favour are bikes such as Genesis Croix De Fer, All City etc as they can take wider wheels with mudguards .... Many also use lightweight bags such as Apidura and Miss Grape etc
I first thought that I might get a frame and build the bike with good components .... I looked at Surly Straggler as I was really keen on hydraulic disc brakes but also looked at having a custom Bob Jackson world tour with disc brakes fancy lugs, fender mounts etc but when I worked out the cost of building the bike it was a lot
Then I started researching older bikes, and I had 2 in mind .... A Koga Miyata that can take mudguards (I've owned 3 Koga Miyata bikes so far, a 1981 Koga Miyata Full Pro, a 1982 Koga Miyata Road Champ, and a Koga Miyata Road Winner) .... all lovely bikes
and the other bike was a 1980's Trek 720
I managed to find the Miyata 1000 in my size at a reasonable price so I am well happy (I'm hoping to recieve it by the weekend) I could not find a Trek in my size and they also fetch high prices (theres one (not my size) listed on the ebay USA site for $800 or best offer)
My initial thought was to change components, such as groupset, wheels etc and customise it my way
so, after reading your post, and also speaking to my LBS, I will try to keep the bike as original as possible, however I will have a new wheelset built ... I will keep the original wheelset though incase I ever wish to ride fully loaded tours
Once I have the bike, I will take it to my LBS so that he can sort out the cables and give the bike a full service ....
I will keep the wheels for now and fit Continental GP5000 clinchers in 32mm (I have the GP5000TL (tubeless) on my Trek Emonda SL6 and these tyres are amazing (I cycled 2100km so far and hey still have lots of life in them, zero punctures on crappy roads, and they are fast) ... I also want to try some Compass tyres
Wheels that I will have build will be HED Belgium Plus rims, Sapim CXray spokes, Son 28 front Dynamo and I'm not sure on the rear hub yet .... I want a strong hub (touring hub) and might consider another Chris King hub (I have Chris King R45 hubs (ceramic bearing upgrade) on my current HED Belgium Plus rims), but at this stage, I don't know what the rear spacing is . I like the HED rims as I wish to use tubeless tyres (I've been using tubeless for 2 years now)... My LBS is regarded as one of the best wheelbuilers in the UK and he will give his opinion
Front rack has to go .... I have no need for it and it looks heavy .... I will keep it in case I wish to do touring. I do however wish to replace it with a lighter smaller rack that has a dynamo light mount (such as this one .... ps any suggestions for one like this in black?):
rear rack will remain (it allows me to use large pannier bags if I wish to go on a cycling fishing/camping trip)... mudguards definately remain ... I like the Gilles Berthoud bags aswell:
saddle has to go .... I have a Brooks C17 Carved Cambium in a grey colour which I will use for the meantime, until I can afford the Giles Berthoud Aravis open (with the cutouts) .... I had the normal Aravis saddle on my Surly and it was super comfy from day 1, and is class
So, once I ride the bike, I will decide on the gearing, but a powermeter is a definate ... so I might /probably will) change the crankset to a dura ace from that period (if there is a crankset in triple) ...or similar (I would love something like this but in a triple): I'm not keen for biopace as my Trek has normal round crankset .... if I am going to use this bike for lots of miles and as a training bike, when I decide to use my Trek for a long audax ride, I don't wnat any drastic changes
the powermeter will be the Stages (vintage looking one):
I've been using a powermeter for a while now .... I use it as a pacing tool and once you start using it and undertanding things, it is a very handy tool, especially when you combine the data with your heart data while you ride
... many people who use powermeters say that it's a 'must have' ... if you plan to do Polarized training (a powermeter is a definate), combined with heart rate
so .... once I have the bike, I will change the tyres, have it serviced and ride it for a few weeks before deciding .... I will be able to ride with the CTC club (Cycling Touring Club) ... they ride every thursday in my area and normally ride 100km with a pub / lunch stop .... all old guys with amazing classic steel bikes ....it looks odd going on a club ride and you are the only person with a carbon bike
as mentioned, I used to have a Surly LHT with Schwalbe Marathon Supreme tyres, back rack and standard 26 inch wheelset, so I know that I'm not riding a fast bike .... I was never slow on the Surly though .... from what I have found, a Miyata 1000 in a 57cm size weighs 27.5 lbs (12.4kg) ... this bike is a 50cm with a 535 mm top tube which fits me fine .... I will also habe a proper bike fit done (costs £200) ... plus change to lighter wheels and it will help with the climbs
If I can ride a 200km Audax with 1800 meters of climbing at an average speed of 25km/hr, I will be very happy (the majority of people average 23km/hr)
so any advice will be appreciated!
Last edited by dim; 05-13-19 at 01:56 PM.
06-24-19, 07:09 AM
#679
Fillet-Brazed Member
Does anyone know what color I have -- I recently got a 58cm 91 Miyata 914 that looks black (serial is T and 58 is stamped beneath it on BB shell), the catalog says the colors were Opal, and Charcoal Blue (maybe that's 3 colors ...) The catalog shows a white bike. My bike has very faint green flecks that can be seen in the sun. I'm inclined to say it's Opal, but wonder what the white bike is, and if mine could be charcoal (or blue)
My bike mechanic friend saw the internal routing points of the rear brake cable as possible stress fracture sites, but I read here that reinforced frames were OK -- my frame appears to have metal plates beneath the plastic bits that guide the cable into the top tube, I assume it is reinforced ...
'91 Miyata 914
From Miyata catalog
My bike mechanic friend saw the internal routing points of the rear brake cable as possible stress fracture sites, but I read here that reinforced frames were OK -- my frame appears to have metal plates beneath the plastic bits that guide the cable into the top tube, I assume it is reinforced ...
'91 Miyata 914
From Miyata catalog
06-24-19, 07:28 AM
#680
Fillet-Brazed Member
Could mine be a Black Sable SE? I don't see SE written on the decals, but it looks similar, though my components match the non-SE 914.
'91 Miyata 914 SE
'91 Miyata 914 SE
06-25-19, 07:54 PM
#681
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Southwest Ohio
Posts: 388
Bikes: Wow, where to start? A collection of 1980's and early 90's road, touring, and MTBs from the likes of Trek, Schwinn, Cannondale, Fuji, Miyata, Univega, Panasonic, and GT. It has gotten rather out of control.
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Near Grand Rapids,MI? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...5524026643518/
08-10-19, 09:20 AM
#682
Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 46
Bikes: 1984 Miyata 1000, 1984 Univega Specialissima (frame), 1993 Miyata 1000LT, 1987 Raleigh Ventura, 1935 Golden Sunbeam, Early '50s Columbia Bomber
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I am a full-on, KoolAid drinking member of the Miyata cult. I have a 1984 1000 and a 1993 1000LT. The '84 is the bike I'm most likely to ride on any given day. It's mostly stock, although I put on a NOS Shimano 14-34 freewheel and I've changed out the chainrings to SR 48-38-24. The Deer head derailleurs handle the extra range with no problems. When I bought it, the handlebars and mattress seat looked like something from a balloon-tire bomber. That was soon rectified with Nitto Randonneurs and a B-17. I added Suntour barcons as well. It's pretty much my ideal touring bike.
08-10-19, 10:46 AM
#683
Senior Member
I am a full-on, KoolAid drinking member of the Miyata cult. I have a 1984 1000 and a 1993 1000LT. The '84 is the bike I'm most likely to ride on any given day. It's mostly stock, although I put on a NOS Shimano 14-34 freewheel and I've changed out the chainrings to SR 48-38-24. The Deer head derailleurs handle the extra range with no problems. When I bought it, the handlebars and mattress seat looked like something from a balloon-tire bomber. That was soon rectified with Nitto Randonneurs and a B-17. I added Suntour barcons as well. It's pretty much my ideal touring bike.
08-10-19, 06:25 PM
#684
Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 46
Bikes: 1984 Miyata 1000, 1984 Univega Specialissima (frame), 1993 Miyata 1000LT, 1987 Raleigh Ventura, 1935 Golden Sunbeam, Early '50s Columbia Bomber
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I'll post a photo as soon as I have the requisite 10 posts. I've actually been a member here for several years but mostly as a lurker. I'm working on it now...
08-10-19, 08:53 PM
#685
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
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Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
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08-11-19, 10:43 AM
#686
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 17
Bikes: 1981 Team Miyata, 1987 Fuso "25th Anniversary", 1986 Liberati Professional, 1983 Trek 720, Giant TCR Comp1
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Team Miyata
My entre into vintage steel bikes was a barely ridden 1981 Team Miyata. All original. Durace Aero groupo. It's one of the nicest-riding bikes I've ever been on. Peter Winnen won Alp du Huez on one in 1981 and 1983. To my knowledge, only Japanese bike to win stages of the TDF. I can't post links. Search "Peter Winnen" "Koga-Miyata" "Capri Sonne"
08-11-19, 03:59 PM
#687
Fillet-Brazed Member
No tubing differences that I can tell, both STB ... seems like the color matches the 914 SE, assuming it's black ... though there are possible opal/green flecks in the black paint when it's in the bright sun. Anyone know if Miyata opal is the white bike pictured?
The components however match the 914 specs, and these were quite different compared to the 914 SE.
It's either opal, or perhaps since the frames were the same, it wasn't uncommon to mix them up a bit?
Does anyone know how the 914 SE compared to the 914 in 1991, I guess the SE was a step up? Anyone know what SE stands for?
Last edited by specialmonkey; 08-11-19 at 04:02 PM.
08-12-19, 10:13 AM
#688
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 17
Bikes: 1981 Team Miyata, 1987 Fuso "25th Anniversary", 1986 Liberati Professional, 1983 Trek 720, Giant TCR Comp1
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Cyclarts used to advertise they reproduce any decal. Don't know the price point. I bet they're out there.
08-12-19, 10:12 PM
#689
Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 46
Bikes: 1984 Miyata 1000, 1984 Univega Specialissima (frame), 1993 Miyata 1000LT, 1987 Raleigh Ventura, 1935 Golden Sunbeam, Early '50s Columbia Bomber
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If you haven't already, feel free to post pictures and describe your bikes in more detail in the https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ta-1000-a.html thread
08-12-19, 10:29 PM
#690
Senior Member
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My first “real” bike was a Miyata. Second one too. First an ‘81 610, and then an ‘85 310... or was it an ‘86? Probably ‘86. Wasn’t that the year that introduced triple butter tubes? Either way, sadly no pictures of those great bikes.
I do have a non-driveside picture of a co-workers bike however. TA Pro 5 Vis, Phil Wood hubs, Ideal saddle. Says his uncle built it back in the day, and later gifted it to him. Says he’ll never get rid of it.
I do have a non-driveside picture of a co-workers bike however. TA Pro 5 Vis, Phil Wood hubs, Ideal saddle. Says his uncle built it back in the day, and later gifted it to him. Says he’ll never get rid of it.
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08-18-19, 06:41 PM
#691
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My 91 is the exact bike and in the correct lighting, it might have a hint of blue , but there is a lot of color in the metal flake paint. But at a quick look, it's black.
, but there is a lot of color in the metal flake paint. But at a quick look, it's black.
08-19-19, 12:03 AM
#693
Senior Member
If you want fenders and wide tires, 32mm is perfect. If you want no fenders and 35mm, go for it, and you might be able to do fenders. 38mm cannot be done with fenders.
08-26-19, 07:50 AM
#695
Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Monett, MO
Posts: 29
Bikes: ** 1988 Specialized Allez ** 1988 Miyata 615 ** 1992 Schwinn Paramount Series 7 ** 1996 Specialized Rockhopper Drop Bar Conversion ** 2011 Trek 1.5 **
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My 88 615
What are the differences between the 615 and 1000? Light tourer vs full touring? This photo was taken right after I purchased the 615 ($150 on CL). I have since changed the saddle and removed the dork disc. I believe it to be bone stock.
08-26-19, 10:17 AM
#696
Banned.
Build quality of Taiwanese Miyatas
I posed this question in another thread but it received no traction so I thought perhaps I could ask here amongst Miyata buffs. When Miyata moved a portion of their production over to Taiwan in the early 90's, did quality of frame construction suffer?
08-26-19, 11:19 AM
#697
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,841
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
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here is my latest cult acquisition 85 (possible 86) Team Miyata
this one I had cold set to 130 and put a 105 5800 group on, i think the black looks nice with the black accents on the frame
this one I had cold set to 130 and put a 105 5800 group on, i think the black looks nice with the black accents on the frame
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
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08-26-19, 11:38 AM
#698
Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Monett, MO
Posts: 29
Bikes: ** 1988 Specialized Allez ** 1988 Miyata 615 ** 1992 Schwinn Paramount Series 7 ** 1996 Specialized Rockhopper Drop Bar Conversion ** 2011 Trek 1.5 **
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I have since put a black 5800 group set on my '88 615 along with larger tires. It is perfect for the chip and seal and gravel roads of rural southwest Missouri.
08-26-19, 02:55 PM
#699
low end rider
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 780
Bikes: 80's. hoarder.
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IIRC should have one of these gold frames hanging in my shed. Too busy with columbias and centurions to get on it. If one miyata frame qualifies me for this cult, I'm in. I also have a miyata alert for my local classifieds if any more cheap stuff turns up..
08-27-19, 06:56 AM
#700
Banned.