Cassette change -- 11-30 to 11-32
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Cassette change -- 11-30 to 11-32
Been doing a lot of hill climbing lately and sometimes wish I had one more cog for the steepest hills. Current cassette is 11-30, and chainrings are 52-36. Bike is a CAAD12 with Ultegra mech.
I'm thinking of changing the cassette to 11-32. Going from 30t to 32t is a 7% reduction in effort and costs about $100 in parts (including the chain). Changing chainrings to 50-34 is way too expensive.
New wheels are coming, so there's a bit of a labor savings by not having to remove the 11-30 from the old wheel.
Is going to 11-32 worthwhile, or is it too close to matter?
Thanks,
Robert
I'm thinking of changing the cassette to 11-32. Going from 30t to 32t is a 7% reduction in effort and costs about $100 in parts (including the chain). Changing chainrings to 50-34 is way too expensive.
New wheels are coming, so there's a bit of a labor savings by not having to remove the 11-30 from the old wheel.
Is going to 11-32 worthwhile, or is it too close to matter?
Thanks,
Robert
Last edited by Robert A; 09-27-19 at 02:19 PM.
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Been doing a lot of hill climbing lately and sometimes wish I had one more cog for the steepest hills. Current cassette is 11-30, and chainrings are 52-36. Bike is a CAAD12 with Ultegra mech.
I'm thinking of changing the cassette to 11-32. Going from 30t to 32t is a 7% reduction in effort and costs about $100 in parts (including the chain). Changing chainrings to 50-34 is way too expensive.
New wheels are coming, so there's a bit of a labor savings by not having to remove the 11-30 from the old wheel.
Is going to 11-32 worthwhile, or is it too close to matter?
Thanks,
Robert
I'm thinking of changing the cassette to 11-32. Going from 30t to 32t is a 7% reduction in effort and costs about $100 in parts (including the chain). Changing chainrings to 50-34 is way too expensive.
New wheels are coming, so there's a bit of a labor savings by not having to remove the 11-30 from the old wheel.
Is going to 11-32 worthwhile, or is it too close to matter?
Thanks,
Robert
Cheers
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I already climb 1000-2000 feet every time I ride, which is usually 2-3 times a week, and have climbed 112,000 so far this year.
Last edited by Robert A; 09-27-19 at 03:56 PM.
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#6
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When i shift from my 28 tooth cog to 32, i totally feel it I have never shifter from 30 to 32, so i have no idea. That is too small of a change. I suggest you to go for a 34 instead.
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On the Ultegra 11-32, the second lowest gear is 29t, so it's not quite the same jump as you describe..
Last edited by Robert A; 09-27-19 at 03:53 PM.
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I moved from a 25 to a 28 due to a change of topography and was amazed at the difference. My times on climbs actually went down a little bit because I was able to stay "on top" of the gear a little better and hold power without draining the tank on steeper sections.
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If it's not giving you a more problematic gap someplace else, go for it.
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How can I identify which Shimano R8000 derailleur I have -- short cage and medium cage? Medium cage is required for cassettes larger than 30t.
Are there specific markings to look for?
Are there specific markings to look for?
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No harm in trying the SS RD with a 32t cassette, if that's what you have. Move the B screw and give it a try.
As for the old cassette removal, it takes 30seconds. The labor is basically non existent. Dont think twice about mounting/removal of a cassette. It's a simple tool and almost no effort.
A 50/34 compact r8000 costs +/-$215. A 34/30 bailout is the same ratio as a 36/32 bailout. Yes it's more $, but it keeps the same jumps in the cassette you have and you will presumably use the 11 and/or 12 tooth cogs more often. I assume you dont spin out on 52/11 right now.
Just something to consider.
Last edited by mstateglfr; 09-27-19 at 07:11 PM.
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Ever been on a group ride and watched guys try to change a tube?
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Its 3 things and takes 30 seconds.
Point was- it isnt a difficult component to add/remove.
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Measure from pulley center to pulley center on the arm. If it's about 3.5", then it's a GS RD.
No harm in trying the SS RD with a 32t cassette, if that's what you have. Move the B screw and give it a try.
As for the old cassette removal, it takes 30seconds. The labor is basically non existent. Dont think twice about mounting/removal of a cassette. It's a simple tool and almost no effort.
A 50/34 compact r8000 costs +/-$215. A 34/30 bailout is the same ratio as a 36/32 bailout. Yes it's more $, but it keeps the same jumps in the cassette you have and you will presumably use the 11 and/or 12 tooth cogs more often. I assume you dont spin out on 52/11 right now.
Just something to consider.
No harm in trying the SS RD with a 32t cassette, if that's what you have. Move the B screw and give it a try.
As for the old cassette removal, it takes 30seconds. The labor is basically non existent. Dont think twice about mounting/removal of a cassette. It's a simple tool and almost no effort.
A 50/34 compact r8000 costs +/-$215. A 34/30 bailout is the same ratio as a 36/32 bailout. Yes it's more $, but it keeps the same jumps in the cassette you have and you will presumably use the 11 and/or 12 tooth cogs more often. I assume you dont spin out on 52/11 right now.
Just something to consider.
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This was going to be my question as well. I can fit a 30, but 32 is too big. Really, 30 is too big, but tolerable with the "B" screw in all the way... I have a 11-36 that works if I use a "Road link" with my mid cage SRAM Rival..., Or even my short cage 105 5600... I have not ridden the 36 yet, just on the trainer and work stand...
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This was going to be my question as well. I can fit a 30, but 32 is too big. Really, 30 is too big, but tolerable with the "B" screw in all the way... I have a 11-36 that works if I use a "Road link" with my mid cage SRAM Rival..., Or even my short cage 105 5600... I have not ridden the 36 yet, just on the trainer and work stand...
#21
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A 34t chainring is about 20$.
if you are mechanically inclined, pulling your crankset and swapping your 36 for a 34t front chainring is pretty easy.
Other than a little chain slap (if riding in a 34x11) This is doable with the FD in a 52/34.
Just another option for you. The only tools you will need are allen wrench set, torque wrench (which you should also use for changing your cogset if you do) and a 5$ Shimano crank tool (TL-FC16)
if you are mechanically inclined, pulling your crankset and swapping your 36 for a 34t front chainring is pretty easy.
Other than a little chain slap (if riding in a 34x11) This is doable with the FD in a 52/34.
Just another option for you. The only tools you will need are allen wrench set, torque wrench (which you should also use for changing your cogset if you do) and a 5$ Shimano crank tool (TL-FC16)
Last edited by Wilmingtech; 09-28-19 at 08:30 AM.
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if you can reasonably afford to do it and it is mechanically doable on the current bike, then why not?
if you only use the "extra" gears to catch a short breather before shifting back into harder gears-great.
if you use the "extra" gears because there is no way you'd make it up the particular hill otherwise-great.
it's nice to have and you'll need them at some point to save the knees, your pride or the ride. you don't live in florida.
there are plenty of times i've wished i had a 30 or 32. let's just say my 27 gets waay too much work. helps to build strength
but doesn't help to build cardio and is a liability when riding with young punks (you know who you are).
if you only use the "extra" gears to catch a short breather before shifting back into harder gears-great.
if you use the "extra" gears because there is no way you'd make it up the particular hill otherwise-great.
it's nice to have and you'll need them at some point to save the knees, your pride or the ride. you don't live in florida.
there are plenty of times i've wished i had a 30 or 32. let's just say my 27 gets waay too much work. helps to build strength
but doesn't help to build cardio and is a liability when riding with young punks (you know who you are).
Last edited by diphthong; 09-28-19 at 04:06 AM.
#23
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Changing the cassette is easy. You can use the cassette tool with an impact tool and it comes right off, no chain ring tool needed. Just hold it with your hand. Even the small impacts you use around the house for screws and general construction work fine. Just my 0.02...
Last edited by u235; 09-28-19 at 12:31 PM.
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My CAAD 12 came with the same gearing as the OP's. I couldn't spin the 52x11 at comfortable rpms. So, I swapped out the 52/36 for a 50/34. Same cassette. Much better for me.
#25
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With the amount of climbing you do, even going from a 30 to 32 chainring will be an improvement IMO. For a more noticeable gain, Check out ratio's with a 34T cog. You might require a longer derailleur cage for either a 32 or 34T large cog, I'm not sure.
The stock approx. 32.5 gear inches on the lowest gear is probably fine for most folks who don't see long steep hills. But for long rides up moderately steep paved grades lows in the 25 - 30 gear inch range might be best. A 32 rear cog is about 30.4 gear inches, And a 34T is 28.6, that would be a big improvement if you can make that work.
For short climbs a 2T difference is barely noticeable. Even on long climbs an A/B comparison will show little difference. But a little difference on a long climb can mean the difference between a pleasant ride, and fighting to get up.
I like bigger gaps (up to 21% we get with 34 - 28 sprockets) in the lowest ratio's. But it is important the midrange be at a max of the 14.3% we get with 14 & 16T cogs, Preferably about 12.5% max (16 & 18T cogs). Ironically my 7 speed Shimano Mega - Range cassette on my budget comfort bike has better ratio's in the midrange then most 9 or 10 speed cassettes, and offers a 34T granny gear.
At first I hated the concept, But in practice, It is one of the best principles when combined with 2 or 3 chainrings. Which might explain why it has been so successful for decades.
The stock approx. 32.5 gear inches on the lowest gear is probably fine for most folks who don't see long steep hills. But for long rides up moderately steep paved grades lows in the 25 - 30 gear inch range might be best. A 32 rear cog is about 30.4 gear inches, And a 34T is 28.6, that would be a big improvement if you can make that work.
For short climbs a 2T difference is barely noticeable. Even on long climbs an A/B comparison will show little difference. But a little difference on a long climb can mean the difference between a pleasant ride, and fighting to get up.
I like bigger gaps (up to 21% we get with 34 - 28 sprockets) in the lowest ratio's. But it is important the midrange be at a max of the 14.3% we get with 14 & 16T cogs, Preferably about 12.5% max (16 & 18T cogs). Ironically my 7 speed Shimano Mega - Range cassette on my budget comfort bike has better ratio's in the midrange then most 9 or 10 speed cassettes, and offers a 34T granny gear.
At first I hated the concept, But in practice, It is one of the best principles when combined with 2 or 3 chainrings. Which might explain why it has been so successful for decades.
Last edited by xroadcharlie; 09-28-19 at 08:05 AM.