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Cassette change -- 11-30 to 11-32

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Cassette change -- 11-30 to 11-32

Old 09-27-19, 01:44 PM
  #1  
Robert A
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Cassette change -- 11-30 to 11-32

Been doing a lot of hill climbing lately and sometimes wish I had one more cog for the steepest hills. Current cassette is 11-30, and chainrings are 52-36. Bike is a CAAD12 with Ultegra mech.

I'm thinking of changing the cassette to 11-32. Going from 30t to 32t is a 7% reduction in effort and costs about $100 in parts (including the chain). Changing chainrings to 50-34 is way too expensive.

New wheels are coming, so there's a bit of a labor savings by not having to remove the 11-30 from the old wheel.

Is going to 11-32 worthwhile, or is it too close to matter?

Thanks,
Robert

Last edited by Robert A; 09-27-19 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 09-27-19, 03:20 PM
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cycledogg
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Originally Posted by Robert A
Been doing a lot of hill climbing lately and sometimes wish I had one more cog for the steepest hills. Current cassette is 11-30, and chainrings are 52-36. Bike is a CAAD12 with Ultegra mech.

I'm thinking of changing the cassette to 11-32. Going from 30t to 32t is a 7% reduction in effort and costs about $100 in parts (including the chain). Changing chainrings to 50-34 is way too expensive.

New wheels are coming, so there's a bit of a labor savings by not having to remove the 11-30 from the old wheel.

Is going to 11-32 worthwhile, or is it too close to matter?

Thanks,
Robert
It will help "some". But MHO, if your struggling with your current setup, you need to climb more, that will be your best gain.
Cheers
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Old 09-27-19, 03:29 PM
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dwing
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Marginal gains is what cycling is all about, isn't it? Do it!
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Old 09-27-19, 03:32 PM
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Robert A
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Originally Posted by cycledogg
It will help "some". But MHO, if your struggling with your current setup, you need to climb more, that will be your best gain.
Cheers
I already climb 1000-2000 feet every time I ride, which is usually 2-3 times a week, and have climbed 112,000 so far this year.

Last edited by Robert A; 09-27-19 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 09-27-19, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert A
I am climbing more. I climb 1000-2000 feet every time I ride my bike, which is usually 2-3 times a week. YTD, I've climbed 112,000.
That extra 2 teeth will matter. It mattered to me. Unless you are already using a medium cage, can your RD handle the extra teeth?
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Old 09-27-19, 03:41 PM
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When i shift from my 28 tooth cog to 32, i totally feel it I have never shifter from 30 to 32, so i have no idea. That is too small of a change. I suggest you to go for a 34 instead.
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Old 09-27-19, 03:44 PM
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Robert A
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Originally Posted by Newspaper_Nick
When i shift from my 28 tooth cog to 32, i totally feel it I have never shifter from 30 to 32, so i have no idea. That is too small of a change. I suggest you to go for a 34 instead.
34t would create too much of a midrange gear spread and a cassette that looks more like a salad plate.

On the Ultegra 11-32, the second lowest gear is 29t, so it's not quite the same jump as you describe..

Last edited by Robert A; 09-27-19 at 03:53 PM.
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Old 09-27-19, 03:54 PM
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I moved from a 25 to a 28 due to a change of topography and was amazed at the difference. My times on climbs actually went down a little bit because I was able to stay "on top" of the gear a little better and hold power without draining the tank on steeper sections.
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Old 09-27-19, 04:07 PM
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If it's not giving you a more problematic gap someplace else, go for it.
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Old 09-27-19, 06:43 PM
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How can I identify which Shimano R8000 derailleur I have -- short cage and medium cage? Medium cage is required for cassettes larger than 30t.

Are there specific markings to look for?
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Old 09-27-19, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert A
How can I identify which Shimano R8000 derailleur I have -- short cage and medium cage? Medium cage is required for cassettes larger than 30t.

Are there specific markings to look for?
Measure from pulley center to pulley center on the arm. If it's about 3.5", then it's a GS RD.
No harm in trying the SS RD with a 32t cassette, if that's what you have. Move the B screw and give it a try.


As for the old cassette removal, it takes 30seconds. The labor is basically non existent. Dont think twice about mounting/removal of a cassette. It's a simple tool and almost no effort.

A 50/34 compact r8000 costs +/-$215. A 34/30 bailout is the same ratio as a 36/32 bailout. Yes it's more $, but it keeps the same jumps in the cassette you have and you will presumably use the 11 and/or 12 tooth cogs more often. I assume you dont spin out on 52/11 right now.
Just something to consider.

Last edited by mstateglfr; 09-27-19 at 07:11 PM.
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Old 09-27-19, 07:14 PM
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I run a Dura Ace rear derailleur which maxs out at 30 and works well with a 32 cassette.
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Old 09-27-19, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr
As for the old cassette removal, it takes 30seconds. The labor is basically non existent. Dont think twice about mounting/removal of a cassette. It's a simple tool and almost no effort..
You also need a chain whip and a wrench with which to turn the lockring tool. I wouldn't advise a mechanically inept person to do it.

Ever been on a group ride and watched guys try to change a tube?
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Old 09-27-19, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by big john
You also need a chain whip and a wrench with which to turn the lockring tool. I wouldn't advise a mechanically inept person to do it.

Ever been on a group ride and watched guys try to change a tube?
Right, you need a lock ring tool, wrench, and whip/clamp.
Its 3 things and takes 30 seconds.

Point was- it isnt a difficult component to add/remove.
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Old 09-27-19, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by velopig
I run a Dura Ace rear derailleur which maxs out at 30 and works well with a 32 cassette.
I run a 32 with 9000 with zero issues on a Trek frame. A lot of if that works has to do with the derailleur hanger.
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Old 09-27-19, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr
Right, you need a lock ring tool, wrench, and whip/clamp.
Its 3 things and takes 30 seconds.

Point was- it isnt a difficult component to add/remove.
You're right, it isn't difficult for those who can do mechanical work.
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Old 09-27-19, 09:08 PM
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I always find that it does not matter how big my cassette is, I always find myself using all of it if I let myself.
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Old 09-27-19, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr
Measure from pulley center to pulley center on the arm. If it's about 3.5", then it's a GS RD.
No harm in trying the SS RD with a 32t cassette, if that's what you have. Move the B screw and give it a try.


As for the old cassette removal, it takes 30seconds. The labor is basically non existent. Dont think twice about mounting/removal of a cassette. It's a simple tool and almost no effort.

A 50/34 compact r8000 costs +/-$215. A 34/30 bailout is the same ratio as a 36/32 bailout. Yes it's more $, but it keeps the same jumps in the cassette you have and you will presumably use the 11 and/or 12 tooth cogs more often. I assume you dont spin out on 52/11 right now.
Just something to consider.
I have the Cannondale OPI Spidering, which I think costs $250 to replace vs.$100 for the cassette and chain. If I were building from scratch, I'd opt for the compact chainrings. But the gaps in the 11-32 are nearly the same as the 11-30. Everythng from the 5th smallest cog on up, has one more tooth compared to the 11-32.
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Old 09-27-19, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tagaproject6
That extra 2 teeth will matter. It mattered to me. Unless you are already using a medium cage, can your RD handle the extra teeth?
This was going to be my question as well. I can fit a 30, but 32 is too big. Really, 30 is too big, but tolerable with the "B" screw in all the way... I have a 11-36 that works if I use a "Road link" with my mid cage SRAM Rival..., Or even my short cage 105 5600... I have not ridden the 36 yet, just on the trainer and work stand...
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Old 09-27-19, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by zjrog
This was going to be my question as well. I can fit a 30, but 32 is too big. Really, 30 is too big, but tolerable with the "B" screw in all the way... I have a 11-36 that works if I use a "Road link" with my mid cage SRAM Rival..., Or even my short cage 105 5600... I have not ridden the 36 yet, just on the trainer and work stand...
32 works AOK with my mid cage Campagnolo Record.
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Old 09-28-19, 03:40 AM
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A 34t chainring is about 20$.

if you are mechanically inclined, pulling your crankset and swapping your 36 for a 34t front chainring is pretty easy.

Other than a little chain slap (if riding in a 34x11) This is doable with the FD in a 52/34.

Just another option for you. The only tools you will need are allen wrench set, torque wrench (which you should also use for changing your cogset if you do) and a 5$ Shimano crank tool (TL-FC16)

Last edited by Wilmingtech; 09-28-19 at 08:30 AM.
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Old 09-28-19, 04:00 AM
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if you can reasonably afford to do it and it is mechanically doable on the current bike, then why not?
if you only use the "extra" gears to catch a short breather before shifting back into harder gears-great.
if you use the "extra" gears because there is no way you'd make it up the particular hill otherwise-great.
it's nice to have and you'll need them at some point to save the knees, your pride or the ride. you don't live in florida.
there are plenty of times i've wished i had a 30 or 32. let's just say my 27 gets waay too much work. helps to build strength
but doesn't help to build cardio and is a liability when riding with young punks (you know who you are).

Last edited by diphthong; 09-28-19 at 04:06 AM.
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Old 09-28-19, 06:12 AM
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Changing the cassette is easy. You can use the cassette tool with an impact tool and it comes right off, no chain ring tool needed. Just hold it with your hand. Even the small impacts you use around the house for screws and general construction work fine. Just my 0.02...

Last edited by u235; 09-28-19 at 12:31 PM.
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Old 09-28-19, 06:33 AM
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My CAAD 12 came with the same gearing as the OP's. I couldn't spin the 52x11 at comfortable rpms. So, I swapped out the 52/36 for a 50/34. Same cassette. Much better for me.
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Old 09-28-19, 07:19 AM
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With the amount of climbing you do, even going from a 30 to 32 chainring will be an improvement IMO. For a more noticeable gain, Check out ratio's with a 34T cog. You might require a longer derailleur cage for either a 32 or 34T large cog, I'm not sure.

The stock approx. 32.5 gear inches on the lowest gear is probably fine for most folks who don't see long steep hills. But for long rides up moderately steep paved grades lows in the 25 - 30 gear inch range might be best. A 32 rear cog is about 30.4 gear inches, And a 34T is 28.6, that would be a big improvement if you can make that work.

For short climbs a 2T difference is barely noticeable. Even on long climbs an A/B comparison will show little difference. But a little difference on a long climb can mean the difference between a pleasant ride, and fighting to get up.

I like bigger gaps (up to 21% we get with 34 - 28 sprockets) in the lowest ratio's. But it is important the midrange be at a max of the 14.3% we get with 14 & 16T cogs, Preferably about 12.5% max (16 & 18T cogs). Ironically my 7 speed Shimano Mega - Range cassette on my budget comfort bike has better ratio's in the midrange then most 9 or 10 speed cassettes, and offers a 34T granny gear.

At first I hated the concept, But in practice, It is one of the best principles when combined with 2 or 3 chainrings. Which might explain why it has been so successful for decades.

Last edited by xroadcharlie; 09-28-19 at 08:05 AM.
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