Foilnz

Hi there,


I've just recently changed my battery to my powermeter and for some reason the kws are jumping around quite alot, from my very first setup and I have no idea whats caused/causing it to do this?


All I did when I purchased it. Was blue tooth to my computer and everything worked fine, my cadence, powermeter were pretty much in sync while ridding on my smart trainer.

All Ive done is changed over battery, (2 times now), just to double check if it was the battery. I've also done the calibration from my cycle computer (Bryton 310), its set at -6. But still seems to jump all over the place comapared to previous setup.

Cadence is fine when comparing the 2, but my power output now is so erratic Im getting frustrated 🤦*♂️🤦*♂️🤦*♂️

Does anyone have any idea whats happening and how to sort this out please?

Very much appreciate the help. Thanks

dsbrantjr

Make certain that the battery is clean and free of finger oils on its contact areas. Is there some sort of reset/initialize button, perhaps hidden behind a small hole, which needs to be pressed after a battery change?

Foilnz

Thank you dsbrantjr,

I'll try giving the battery a clean once I finish work. However, It doesnt seem like theres a reset button on some of the youtube clips Ive watched. Just a straight forward bettery swop 🤔🤔🤔

Foilnz

Tried cleaning the battery, but didnt make much differance. Im wondering if theres some way of setting a delay like Zwift? How it has a 3 sec average and or instant.

gregf83 

Do you have a graph of your power output? Without any averaging power is always going to jump around quite a bit. The erratic behaviour of the display will vary depending on your cadence. If you were to pedal precisely at 60 or 90 RPM the display will likely be quite stable as the powertap provides a datapoint every second. If your pedal frequency is a multiple of one second the display will be more stable.

Best not to stare at the powermeter too closely. You will get used to it bouncing around or you can increase the averaging.

Foilnz

The deviation is like 30-40kw, so its pretty hard not to notice. It wasnt doing this before battery change and it was sitting close to perfect with my Bushido smart trainer.
If there is a way to increase the averaging then how would I do this?

Cheers

gregf83 

I wouldn’t increase the averaging until you can confirm the integrity factor the data coming from the Powertap. If the wireless connection is unreliable you could be seeing dropouts which you’d want to fix before increasing averaging. If you can post a file with the raw data in it it’s usually fairly easy to spot connection issues.

I don't know anything about Bryton head units or whether it’s possible to change the averaging.

If possible, see if you can borrow someone’s Garmin to compare.

One last minor item: it’s watts (W) not kilowatts (kW) that are being measured.

Foilnz

Cheers for the suggestions.

It was a setting in my cycle computer. Found the pw averaging page and changed it to 3sec.

Running sweet 👌👌👌

jadocs

On the other hand, real time watts is better to fine tune your pedal stroke to be more consistent and efficient. Once mastered, you can better control your zones. You could fluctuate 80 watts or more on a single reading for a 3 sec average and think you are still in your zone because the two other readings were low.

Riveting

I've had my PT G3 hub for about 4-5 years now, with about 17,000 miles on it, and some 5 sec. sprints at about 1,050 watts. With the 3 sec. avg. setting (Garmin 520) it's been flawless, and still gets about 1,500 miles per battery.