Ashwarren

Hi

So this is the thread on the fork of a 1970's Dawes Galaxy. The locknut on the headset will not come off. What are my options?

Ashwarren

Sorry I cannot post a pic of this yet

_ForceD_

Won't come off as in "the nut spins but doesn't catch the threads (which are striped)" or "can't even get the nut to spin"?

If it's the former, and you have at least a bit of play in it...and since the fork/steer tube is trash...maybe you can somehow use a gear puller to get the nut off.??? Or, maybe angle a hacksaw in there and cut the nut. If it's the latter, maybe it just needs to be soaked with penetrating oil to loosen it.

Dan

WizardOfBoz

ForceD's question is a good one. Cup or cone and locknut spins = stripped. Won't turn = corroded or galled. If it wont turn, try Kroil or penetrating oil. Repeated application over a day or so. See if you can break it loose. If that doesn't work you can try heat. One of these propane cylinder from Lowes Depot. Flame applied gently with lots of movement to heat the race/nut up a few hundred degrees (you are not shooting for red hot). If the problem is that it spins (or it doesn't yield to Kroil/heat), you can cut the locknut and/or race off.

I've not tried to cut a bearing race/locknut off a fork but I suspect that at least the race is hardened. If so, a hacksaw is gonna be a tough ask. One test of hardness in the machine shop is whether a file digs into a meal or skips off the surface. A hacksaw might skip on a race. To cut it off I'd use a Dremel or flexible shaft tool with a ceramic or diamond cutting disk. Unless you are more skilled than I am, you'll go through a few of those disks, but you should be able to cut a slot in the locknut and race in one spot with minimal damage to the fork threads.

If its stripped, you can try to rechase the threads with a die. If that doesn't give you strong enough threads you might try adding a spacer between the cone and the locknut (to get the locknut to tighten on non-stripped threads, assuming the threads near the cone are ok) or you can have someone braze some brass onto the fork and cut new threads (they won't be as strong). Or, get a new fork, or a donor fork from a bike carcass.

Wilfred Laurier

If stripped (not seized or galled):

1. Install front wheel, place wheel on floor with fork pointing straight up
1a. (edit) Use your feet to hold the front wheel on the ground
2. Grip bike frame by top tube close to head tube and provide steady force upward
3. Turn locknut counter-clockwise, maintaining upward pull on frame

This should replace the regular force that the threads should provide to pull the nut up.
You will likely have to do the same thing to remove the bearing cone/cup.[/QUOTE]

dedhed

^^^^ This. If it's truly "stripped" you need to pull up as you turn to eventually engage some threads/rethread as it goes They're pretty fine threads so that should be able to happen.

Wilfred Laurier

He'll have to get the locknut off, first.

wsteve464

Cut the steerer tube flush with the nut then cut the tube and nut toward the headtube until the nut is cut in half

WizardOfBoz

Steve, if this is a Dawes Galaxy from the 70s, its s steel threaded steerer tube - cut to match the frame. Are you suggesting that the fork is dead, so cut it off?

Again, the Dremel with a diamond abrasive disk can probably cut the locknut off without damaging the steerer any further. I'd cut it at an angle. You might knick the steerer tube, but not much if you're careful.

wsteve464

According to the title of the thread the steerer/nut is stripped. My take is the nut spins in place and the threads are stripped off and even if it could be threaded off will a new nut go back on and would it be secure. If the fork is something special cut/grind the top of the steerer until the nut comes lose and have a new steerer brazed in.