What's Your Favourite Gearing Combo
10-12-18, 01:53 PM
#26
Non omnino gravis
If I'm going on a long ride with big climbs, I can go on either my 1X or my 2X bike, doesn't make a difference. If I'm doing hill repeats, I genuinely prefer the 1X. There's just a lot less shifting.
As I've said to people in the past-- if you're worrying about spinning out on the descent, you didn't go hard enough on the climb. I'm thankful for the few free seconds of coasting.
As I've said to people in the past-- if you're worrying about spinning out on the descent, you didn't go hard enough on the climb. I'm thankful for the few free seconds of coasting.
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10-12-18, 02:23 PM
#27
Senior Member
A good many people in and around the MTN bike capital of GA use 1X. The new 1X GX Eagle with a 32 up front and a 10-50 cassette handles a similar range to most 2X. I switched recently and do not get out of my middle gears much on hills that I could not get up with my old 2X. I switched my front gear to a 30t on my 11 speed 1X MTN bike 11-42 and have no problem with it either.
10-12-18, 02:48 PM
#28
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Edit: on a side thought both of my true 1x bikes are 10s 11-36 (one is a 42t the other a 32t oval) I don't them it gappy.
Yet, I suppose the 10-50 11-46 stuff is gappy,.... I've never ridden them.
10-12-18, 03:27 PM
#29
Senior Member
As DrIsotope says, the larger gaps between gears is a double edged sword. How many times do you actually want to shift through all those extra gears? Do you actually need those gears? Steep hills may actually benefit from less gears/less shifting during climbs.
Last edited by McMitchell; 10-12-18 at 03:31 PM.
10-12-18, 04:51 PM
#30
Senior Member
Every brifter system out there provides for multi-step upshifts. And if I need to significantly change ratio, in most circumstances I prefer to flick through a gear every couple seconds, rather than dumping a lot of ratio at once.
The only time narrow rear shifting really feels annoying is when dumping to the small ring on a wide-spaced front (i.e. a compact) with a system that doesn't provide multi-upshift. But even then, I'm pretty good at trilling a finger on an upshift lever.
Many shifting systems do a lot to address to issue. Campagnolo has multi-upshift. Di2 has synchro. And dumping gears is trivial on old-school shift levers.
Actually, my own gravel bike avoids the problem in an unusual way: the drivetrain is 3x7, and the cassette is "wide" (11-28), with tight spacing accomplished through a 1.5-step arrangement. It effectively is a wide-spaced drivetrain, but if I'm in the speed range with overlap between my big and middle rings, I can make tight-spaced shifts when I want them.
Do you actually need those gears?
Steep hills may actually benefit from less gears/less shifting during climbs.
When a hill is steep but steady, I still like having my shifts somewhat close. The ~17% shift between my 24T and 28T cogs at my bottom end can be a little annoying at times.
10-12-18, 06:07 PM
#31
Senior Member
I think HTupolev comments are out of context. My original comment was concerning Shoota saying 1X does not work in a MTN environment. HTupolev is discussing a road and gravel environment, more like I think Shoota is use to. Making multiple shifts up a gradual hill is different than comming around a single track trail corner and finding a very steep hill which demands multiple shifts in a hurry.
It is my understanding that Shimano has a pattent on shifting multiple gears which restricts others, particulalry SRAM, who make shifting devices.
Certainly we all ride in differing environments that have unique circumstances.
It is my understanding that Shimano has a pattent on shifting multiple gears which restricts others, particulalry SRAM, who make shifting devices.
Certainly we all ride in differing environments that have unique circumstances.
Last edited by McMitchell; 10-12-18 at 06:30 PM.
10-12-18, 06:15 PM
#32
Senior Member
But yes, I think our disagreement is mostly a matter of context.
It is my understanding that Shimano has a pattent on shifting multiple gears which restricts others, particulalry SRAM, who make shifting devices.
10-12-18, 06:44 PM
#33
Senior Member
I hope we are all here to learn. I find the largest impediment to learning is not listening to differing views.
I might suggest that those who have not tried 1X 11 or 1X 12 gear systems should try them before they judge them. 1X systems are and will continue to make inroads in new areas, including racing.
I might suggest that those who have not tried 1X 11 or 1X 12 gear systems should try them before they judge them. 1X systems are and will continue to make inroads in new areas, including racing.
Last edited by McMitchell; 10-13-18 at 09:17 AM.
10-13-18, 01:10 AM
#34
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I wonder if this is the setup people either love or hate ... I like the idea of it and the simplicity but would be scared to make the leap of faith and find the gaps between gears were too large and a few others mention the downhill gearing's not high enough .... I guess part of this will also depend where you mainly ride and how hilly it is.
Except once. I joined up on a fast group on a circuit and was dropped after 1.5 laps on a 2 mile circuit. After words looking at Strava it looks like I hit a 35 mph top speed with the group. According to bike calc I would have been at about a cadence of 118 in the 11 cog. I was cooked. So while I don't know how sustainable a cadence of 118 at that speed is for me, I for sure ran out of gas. The group was for sure too fast for me, and too fast for my bike as well. haha. But I have no problem riding with the slower more reasonable paced groups on the slower nights.
Overall I have started to seek more and more gravel and less paved roads, distance and speed isn't mattering as much to me as how much fun I have. Overall I think I'm adjusting well to being a gravel cyclist
10-17-18, 02:45 PM
#35
Senior Member
Below is a YouTube video exploring: SRAM grip shifter, SRAM trigger shifter and Shimano Rapid Fire shifter. The test is done on 3 different “all terrain” bikes with 1X systems. Shifting systems can be important in hilly/MTN environments. This is one reason I went to 1X and a SRAM grip shifter.
My issue has more to do with shifting to lower gears, just before or during a climb. Shifting to higher gears going down a hill is not usually a problem, shifting to lower gears with a load on ones chain can be a problem. I realize that ideally one anticipates, but anticipation is not always precise. What if one has to go around a fallen tree on a steep hill, hills and Mtns erode. Certainly these situations are much more common in a Mtn environment vs a road & gravel environment.
My issue has more to do with shifting to lower gears, just before or during a climb. Shifting to higher gears going down a hill is not usually a problem, shifting to lower gears with a load on ones chain can be a problem. I realize that ideally one anticipates, but anticipation is not always precise. What if one has to go around a fallen tree on a steep hill, hills and Mtns erode. Certainly these situations are much more common in a Mtn environment vs a road & gravel environment.
Last edited by McMitchell; 10-17-18 at 04:17 PM.
10-20-18, 08:00 PM
#36
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I ride mostly flat gravel with 49x45 and 11-36 in the back. 20 usable gears.
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10-22-18, 07:24 AM
#37
Senior Member
I'm really liking the 2x11 50/34 x 11-32 that came on my Warbird. But... I'm in Michigan. I'm in a hilly area, so it's mostly flat (instead of entirely flat). When I go and ride the biggest hills around me, I can get about 50ft/mi of climbing, which is a lot for this state. 10-30ft/mi is more common. If I have any complaints, it's that with 11sp there are almost too many gears and moving back up the cassette during rolling hills I'm skipping gears to get out of that large block of single-spaced gears at the bottom.
My other main gravel bike runs 3x8 with 52/42/30 and a 12-28 cassette. I've entirely reconfigured that bike, so am very happy with the gearing also.
As long as the gain ratio for my lowest gear is somewhere in the low 2's I'm fine. This has always been plenty low enough that I can sit and ride up the steepest hill even when fatigued.
My other main gravel bike runs 3x8 with 52/42/30 and a 12-28 cassette. I've entirely reconfigured that bike, so am very happy with the gearing also.
As long as the gain ratio for my lowest gear is somewhere in the low 2's I'm fine. This has always been plenty low enough that I can sit and ride up the steepest hill even when fatigued.
10-27-18, 11:35 AM
#38
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My Norco Search XR steel came with Shimano 105 front and rear derailleurs and 11-32 cassette, and a Praxis Alba 48/32 crank. I've been riding 70 pavement/30 dirt. 200-400 feet of elevation climbing on my regular short under 15 mile rides.
I rode a gravel ride earlier in the year with up to 18% grade and just over 2,000 feet of elevation climbing on forest fire roads, glad i was using a hybrid with a triple then, though i still walked quite a bit.
Last two organized rides, i was dealing with up to 10-15% grade on paved roads. The Search was fine with that. Another upcoming ride has up to 28% grades. i'm wondering if i should not only work on fitness, but look into an 11-34 (11x36?) cassette, and i sure WISH Praxis offered a 46/30 front crank. I'm more concerned with low gears. And as yet, simply do not ride in groups so top end is not that important to me. I've been perusing online other brands... but for now, will just walk when needed. maybe next year...
eric/fresno, ca.
I rode a gravel ride earlier in the year with up to 18% grade and just over 2,000 feet of elevation climbing on forest fire roads, glad i was using a hybrid with a triple then, though i still walked quite a bit.
Last two organized rides, i was dealing with up to 10-15% grade on paved roads. The Search was fine with that. Another upcoming ride has up to 28% grades. i'm wondering if i should not only work on fitness, but look into an 11-34 (11x36?) cassette, and i sure WISH Praxis offered a 46/30 front crank. I'm more concerned with low gears. And as yet, simply do not ride in groups so top end is not that important to me. I've been perusing online other brands... but for now, will just walk when needed. maybe next year...
eric/fresno, ca.
Last edited by ericzamora; 10-28-18 at 11:22 AM.
10-28-18, 07:58 AM
#39
Senior Member
It's generally flat as a pancake around here, but some routes have a few ~20% walls.
- For gravel racing, I like a 2x 50,34 and 11-36. Tons of ratios to work with and I basically never get out of the big ring on most events/races around here.
- For single speed training and racing, I'm currently using 48-19 which give me 19.5 mph at 100 rpm on 36mm tires. This is terrific for smooth, fast gravel.
- For "adventure" riding where I throw in some serious walls and singletrack, I really like the 1x setup I have on my dropbar bike with 2" mountain bike tires. 40 in the front and 11-42 in the rear.
- For gravel racing, I like a 2x 50,34 and 11-36. Tons of ratios to work with and I basically never get out of the big ring on most events/races around here.
- For single speed training and racing, I'm currently using 48-19 which give me 19.5 mph at 100 rpm on 36mm tires. This is terrific for smooth, fast gravel.
- For "adventure" riding where I throw in some serious walls and singletrack, I really like the 1x setup I have on my dropbar bike with 2" mountain bike tires. 40 in the front and 11-42 in the rear.
10-28-18, 10:35 AM
#40
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I should have asked whether people are running Tiagra's / 105's as well .... I quite like the sound of this one but most of the gravel bikes with 105's are limited to 11-32's on the rear ... the only bike I've seen with this exact set up is the Cannondale Topstone which isn't due out over here until the New Year.
Shimano's stated capabilities are conservative.
10-29-18, 07:26 AM
#41
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Just happened upon this older post- and fyi is that 5800 GS rear derailleurs can handle cassettes larger than 32. 34 is no problem and a 36 can be handled on many drivetrains without modification. Some(mine) needed a wolftooth to clear the largest cog. Others may just need a new B screw thats longer than standard.
Shimano's stated capabilities are conservative.
Shimano's stated capabilities are conservative.
10-29-18, 10:55 AM
#42
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I spoke to a mechanic who's opinion I value and he certainly said you can go out to 34 but he felt the 36 was pushing it that bit too far and would put strain on it / lead to breakages ... his comment was you're possibly better off dropping the small chanring to say a 28 to get lower gearing.
Swapping b screws, flipping B screws, goatlinks etc... that isn't exactly in the "can do" territory, but in the Modified territory. and running at Extreme limits will cause issues.
11-01-18, 12:43 PM
#43
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Hi, has anyone used a SRAM XG1180 (10-42 eleven speed) rear cassette with appropriate SRAM road levers/derailleur, together with a Shimano 1x crankset like the XT M8000 (30 or 32T)?
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks,
Mark
11-01-18, 01:44 PM
#44
Banned
Favorite?
My Town is built on a hill, flat parts around the river banks, were filled in..
after first having earlier, been built on wooden pilings..
....
11-01-18, 03:41 PM
#45
Non omnino gravis
If I ever win the lotto, I'll let you know if the XG1180 is worth the premium-- for now, I'll stick to my pair of XG1150s. Currently paired to SRAM Rival 1 HRD levers, Rival 1 Type 3.0 RD, and an FSA Gossamer crankset w/ RaceFace 42T narrow-wide. I cannot think of a situation where I would want a ring as small as a 30 or 32 in the front-- it would spin out sooooo fast. IMO, combined with the 10-42 cassette, anywhere from 40-46T in the front is where it's at for mixed-surface riding. I've tried 40, 42, and 44, and keep coming back to the 42. If I were in the market for a crankset, I'd just go with the Rival 1 that comes with an X-Sync 42T.
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11-01-18, 04:52 PM
#47
Non omnino gravis
I think even more amazing is that the XG1180 isn't even the most expensive one-- there's the 1195 and 1199 after that-- and the XG1199 X-Dome is $300+.
XG1150: 394g, $90
XG1180: 315g, ~$250
XG1199: 260g, $300+
I've perused some MTB forums looking for greater insight into the differences between the cassettes, and the consensus is that the higher-level ones aren't worth the expenditure, just because of the pricepoints. The XG1180 would be the deal at say $150, and the XG1199 at ~$200. But as they're priced, they're well past the point of diminishing returns. I guess I understand, as the market for xD cassettes has to be really small. Which is a bummer. I much prefer the xD cassette.
XG1150: 394g, $90
XG1180: 315g, ~$250
XG1199: 260g, $300+
I've perused some MTB forums looking for greater insight into the differences between the cassettes, and the consensus is that the higher-level ones aren't worth the expenditure, just because of the pricepoints. The XG1180 would be the deal at say $150, and the XG1199 at ~$200. But as they're priced, they're well past the point of diminishing returns. I guess I understand, as the market for xD cassettes has to be really small. Which is a bummer. I much prefer the xD cassette.
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11-01-18, 06:08 PM
#48
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Hi, my real question wasn't so much the XG1180 itself but whether using it or another SRAM cassette of that size would work ok with a Shimano XT 1x crank. That is, mixing in a 1x setup Sram rear and Shimano front. Sorry I wasn't clear about it. Also may be an obvious question (as in, yes not issue).
Thanks for any thoughts on it.
Thanks for any thoughts on it.
11-01-18, 06:39 PM
#49
Non omnino gravis
I know 1X cranks are supposed to have a different chainline, but I can't speak to them because I've never used one. I used a Shimano CX50 crankset previously (which came with 46/36) and currently the FSA Gossamer, which came with a typical compact 50/34. I just slapped a narrow-wide on in the outer position.
The bike I built for my son has the cast-off Shimano CX50, and a traditional freehub with an 11-42 PG1130 SRAM cassette. No issues with that bike's chainline either. So basically, you can use whatever crank you want.
The bike I built for my son has the cast-off Shimano CX50, and a traditional freehub with an 11-42 PG1130 SRAM cassette. No issues with that bike's chainline either. So basically, you can use whatever crank you want.
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