Considering new components vs new bike for my old CAAD-9
#1
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Considering new components vs new bike for my old CAAD-9
Starting to think about upgrading the worn components on my CAAD-9 from about a decade ago (rather than buying a totally new rig) since I generally like the geometry and feel of it. Currently have whatever old school Shimano 105 stuff that came with it, and it's a BB30. Not super familiar with where components are at these days. How challenging is it to find a BB30 compatible groupset? If I snagged an updated 105 or Ultegra set, are there problems adapting to the old sizing on bottom bracket/any concerns w said adaptation is so? At least at first glance to this general non-technical guy, they appear to be using something different today.
Guess I could just pony up for a whole new machine, but not sure I really need to. Generally just use the bike for some health benefits, but trying to build back up to have a little run around next year with some (slow) crit fun.
Appreciate any perspectives.
Guess I could just pony up for a whole new machine, but not sure I really need to. Generally just use the bike for some health benefits, but trying to build back up to have a little run around next year with some (slow) crit fun.
Appreciate any perspectives.
#2
Sr Member on Sr bikes
If you like that old frame I say stick with it. You can find new, updated components. That'll make the bike seem "new" to you. A new (presumably CF) bike doesn't necessarily mean "better." I own a top-of-the-line CF bike that I never ride. I just don't like the way if feels and acts under me. I just like the feel, and action of my older steel, CroMo, and Aluminum frames better.
Dan
Dan
#3
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If you like that old frame I say stick with it. You can find new, updated components. That'll make the bike seem "new" to you. A new (presumably CF) bike doesn't necessarily mean "better." I own a top-of-the-line CF bike that I never ride. I just don't like the way if feels and acts under me. I just like the feel, and action of my older steel, CroMo, and Aluminum frames better.
Dan
Dan
#4
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Everything on a bike works together. Anything that you change usually affects something else.
There's tinkerers and there's riders:
If you're the kind of person who likes to tinker with your bike, go the upgrade route. It will probably put you on an endless process of changing out one part after another to get the combination right but that's what us tinkerers do. If you ever finish, you'll have the satisfaction of owning a one of a kind bike that you personally designed.
If all you want to do is ride, you'll almost surely find happiness quicker with a new bike. Every single part brand new, every part designed to work with every other part and a new bike warranty.
There's tinkerers and there's riders:
If you're the kind of person who likes to tinker with your bike, go the upgrade route. It will probably put you on an endless process of changing out one part after another to get the combination right but that's what us tinkerers do. If you ever finish, you'll have the satisfaction of owning a one of a kind bike that you personally designed.
If all you want to do is ride, you'll almost surely find happiness quicker with a new bike. Every single part brand new, every part designed to work with every other part and a new bike warranty.
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I’m currently putting a Shimano crankset into a Cannondale frameset.
Caveat - Cannondale slaps BB30 stickers on BB30, BB30A, and PF30A frames. Even their tech docs and catalogues are sloppy. Measure shell width, and shell inner diameter to confirm.
Once you figure out which you have, the adapters and shims from 30mm to 24mm are easy.
See https://wheelsmfg.com/bb30a-tech-info for info.
Double caveat - some Cannondale framesets follow BBRIGHT too. Unlikely for a ten year old frame. But sigh.
p.s. Forever amazed by the false binaries.
-mr. bill
Caveat - Cannondale slaps BB30 stickers on BB30, BB30A, and PF30A frames. Even their tech docs and catalogues are sloppy. Measure shell width, and shell inner diameter to confirm.
Once you figure out which you have, the adapters and shims from 30mm to 24mm are easy.
See https://wheelsmfg.com/bb30a-tech-info for info.
Double caveat - some Cannondale framesets follow BBRIGHT too. Unlikely for a ten year old frame. But sigh.
p.s. Forever amazed by the false binaries.
-mr. bill
Last edited by mr_bill; 09-22-19 at 04:18 PM.
#6
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Starting to think about upgrading the worn components on my CAAD-9 from about a decade ago (rather than buying a totally new rig) since I generally like the geometry and feel of it. Currently have whatever old school Shimano 105 stuff that came with it, and it's a BB30. Not super familiar with where components are at these days. How challenging is it to find a BB30 compatible groupset? If I snagged an updated 105 or Ultegra set, are there problems adapting to the old sizing on bottom bracket/any concerns w said adaptation is so? At least at first glance to this general non-technical guy, they appear to be using something different today.
Guess I could just pony up for a whole new machine, but not sure I really need to. Generally just use the bike for some health benefits, but trying to build back up to have a little run around next year with some (slow) crit fun.
Appreciate any perspectives.
Guess I could just pony up for a whole new machine, but not sure I really need to. Generally just use the bike for some health benefits, but trying to build back up to have a little run around next year with some (slow) crit fun.
Appreciate any perspectives.
I don’t know the weight of a CAAD9 frameset but I would like to know. I suspect that it would be very competitive with modern offerings. Maybe you could post up a picture of your CAAD9.
I bought 2 CAAD9’s in the off season, both with BB30 - A new 58 and a clean used 56. Both are gloss white with red decals. For a rim brake road bike this would build up very nicely for whatever modifications and upgrades from the original build components you can dream up. The brake clearance may be a limiting factor since these frames may max out with 25mm width clinchers.
I would not not hesitate to go all out with a lightweight wheel upgrade. I would bling out the bike with hubs and rims that accentuate your frame. I’m partial to polished silver and clear silver anodized parts but I guess you can go overboard with that just as today’s bikes have gone overboard with flat black.
If you look at the current Cannondale lineup (2019/2020 bikes?) they have toned down the decals completely. Almost to the point that you can’t even tell it is a Cannondale anymore. I like it! But I also think that the loud seatstay decals on the CAAD9 that declare “Made In USA” are awesome as well.
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If you're happy with the frame, keep it.
#8
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For a 10 year old design - there is a lot that is still relevant here.
These frames look really nice to me. Taking it up into a more custom realm would not be a problem since most of the dimensions are a super easy standard such as27.2 seatpost and 31.8 front derailleur. To me the integrated headset fork looks great too!
#9
Jet Jockey
As a CAAD9 owner, I vote upgrade.
The crank is BB30, a standard for which spindles are no longer being produced. Cannondale has moved on to BB30A, which uses a wider bottom bracket shell. I’m convinced they did it to prevent people from retrofitting their frames back to 68mm English.
SRAM had (has?) a wide lineup of BB30 cranks with the spindle integrated into the driveside arm.
When the day comes that my crank or spindle are done, (separate spindle for the Cannondale SI cranks, which I have), I’m going to put a sleeve adapter in there and get an Ultegra crank. The best upgrade I ever made to my SI crank was buying Shimano chainrings for it.
Beyond that, the frame is a great upgrade candidate with all of its very standard sized parts. And god bless external cable routing.
The crank is BB30, a standard for which spindles are no longer being produced. Cannondale has moved on to BB30A, which uses a wider bottom bracket shell. I’m convinced they did it to prevent people from retrofitting their frames back to 68mm English.
SRAM had (has?) a wide lineup of BB30 cranks with the spindle integrated into the driveside arm.
When the day comes that my crank or spindle are done, (separate spindle for the Cannondale SI cranks, which I have), I’m going to put a sleeve adapter in there and get an Ultegra crank. The best upgrade I ever made to my SI crank was buying Shimano chainrings for it.
Beyond that, the frame is a great upgrade candidate with all of its very standard sized parts. And god bless external cable routing.
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I'm on the side of keeping the frame if you like it. Have you treated the bike to a real deal LBS "super" tune-up? That 105 groupset is pretty bulletproof. With a professional cleaning, proper lubrication and adjustment, etc you might be like new. Even if you had to replace some drivetrain components (e.g. chain, cassette, chain rings) with that generation's parts (which are still available!!) it would be minor, I expect. I don't know... I just can't see the new generation groupset impressing a non-pro rider that much.
#11
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I'd keep the frame upgrade components and invest in wheels.
However, If you are really dead set on buying a new bike and it's a size 54 I might be interested in the caad9.
Unless your spindle is shot, all you need is new chain rings if your current chain rings are worn out. new -take-off 105 can be had for fairly inexpensive.
Honestly I prefer the older 10speed 105 over the new 11 speed 105. Buy a new cassette, a new chain, new chain rings, New shift Cable. New bar tape, and a super awesome set of wheels and good tires, GP4000 or the new GP 5000
I have a set of Shimano RS81 C35 wheels. that I am not willing to come down on price and sell what people can much cheaper wheelsets for. So I have been looking at caad9 and caad 10 frames to put them on as a N+ 1 bike.
A caad9 is not irrelevant. guys in this Thread/topic can really help you out far more than the guys posting/reading in General.
https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...-caad-409.html
However, If you are really dead set on buying a new bike and it's a size 54 I might be interested in the caad9.
Unless your spindle is shot, all you need is new chain rings if your current chain rings are worn out. new -take-off 105 can be had for fairly inexpensive.
Honestly I prefer the older 10speed 105 over the new 11 speed 105. Buy a new cassette, a new chain, new chain rings, New shift Cable. New bar tape, and a super awesome set of wheels and good tires, GP4000 or the new GP 5000
I have a set of Shimano RS81 C35 wheels. that I am not willing to come down on price and sell what people can much cheaper wheelsets for. So I have been looking at caad9 and caad 10 frames to put them on as a N+ 1 bike.
A caad9 is not irrelevant. guys in this Thread/topic can really help you out far more than the guys posting/reading in General.
https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...-caad-409.html
#12
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For the CAAD9 there was either the BB30 or a standard threaded bb. Mine has the standard bb and is still doing fine. I am running Force 10sp and it's still a great bike.
#13
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I vote for keeping the bike you are already comfortable on, and upgrading. I did that with my 30 year old steel bike, and fell in love with it again.
New to the CAAD family, I picked up a 2006 CAAD8 frame, built it up with SRAM Red crankset, Force 2x10 brifters, Rival derrailuers... Fun bike to ride, though it beats me up compared to my steel bike. But love the speed I can get out of it compared to my steel bike...
New to the CAAD family, I picked up a 2006 CAAD8 frame, built it up with SRAM Red crankset, Force 2x10 brifters, Rival derrailuers... Fun bike to ride, though it beats me up compared to my steel bike. But love the speed I can get out of it compared to my steel bike...
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Does the crank itself need to be replaced? You could likely upgrade everything else (new bottom bracket, new chainrings) and just run the old crank with pretty much any setup you want. Unless there's something wrong with the crank arms, or you want to change the length or find a lighter model, etc, this should work fine.
My CAADX 105 came stock with an FSA double chainring crankset (BB30). I wanted to change to a 1x setup, so I removed the two stock chainrings, and mounted up a single 42T narrow/wide 5 bolt aftermarket chainring. Then I just swapped out everything else (rear derailleur, cassette, chain, shifters) with SRAM Force 1x products. It works great and the bike feels brand new.
The only thing that would give me pause with upgrading an old CAAD9 frame would be the limited tire clearance. If I recall correctly, it's 25 or 26m max clearance, and that aluminum frame is super stiff.
My CAADX 105 came stock with an FSA double chainring crankset (BB30). I wanted to change to a 1x setup, so I removed the two stock chainrings, and mounted up a single 42T narrow/wide 5 bolt aftermarket chainring. Then I just swapped out everything else (rear derailleur, cassette, chain, shifters) with SRAM Force 1x products. It works great and the bike feels brand new.
The only thing that would give me pause with upgrading an old CAAD9 frame would be the limited tire clearance. If I recall correctly, it's 25 or 26m max clearance, and that aluminum frame is super stiff.
#15
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My CAAD9 is currently running Farsports 58x28 rims with Conti GP4 25mm measuring at just under 30mm. No clearance issues with this setup at all.
#16
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I just picked up a 2008 CAAD9 frame with the "Premium" carbon fork, and updated it with new components. I bought the frame set as a quick replacement for a vintage frame I cracked, and was not super excited about it. But it has quickly become one of my favorite bikes I have ever owned, and it is very light!
The difference is that the 2008 CAAD9 still had an English threaded bottom bracket, so it was easy to just put an external Shimano Hollowtech II BB in there. The BB30 makes it a little trickier, but not impossible.
Everything else on the bike works with modern components quite well, as long as you're not trying to go to disc brakes. Your only issue will be the bottom bracket, and that is surmountable.
The difference is that the 2008 CAAD9 still had an English threaded bottom bracket, so it was easy to just put an external Shimano Hollowtech II BB in there. The BB30 makes it a little trickier, but not impossible.
Everything else on the bike works with modern components quite well, as long as you're not trying to go to disc brakes. Your only issue will be the bottom bracket, and that is surmountable.
#17
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I was recently riding with a friend who had some Bontrager 25's on his Domane road bike, and my Michelins looked absolutely monstrous next to his, even though they were nominally the "same size".
#18
Jet Jockey
shy of 26mm. The 25s gave me barely 2mm clearance in the fork (no problem in back), but 3mm is my minimum.
Industry standard has always been 4mm. Fat tire evangelist Jan Heine even recommends 3mm, and he advocates upsizing tires everywhere you can.
#19
Senior Member
Do your research and make sure all the new shiny goodies will fit, have fun doing your upgrade project and enjoy your refurbished bike when its done.
You will notice a difference because you put in the effort and wrench time and your bike wont be a boring off the shelf object anyone can buy.
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks all. Great community here (and still some classic love of the CAAD-9)! Tinkering feels like the right approach to me after the feedback and some pondering.
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