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80's Italian Bike but want to upgrade to Campy Index Shifting

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80's Italian Bike but want to upgrade to Campy Index Shifting

Old 05-23-20, 02:04 PM
  #51  
tNuvolari
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Originally Posted by CyclingFool95
I've enjoyed reading this thread. Back in 92 I bought a Pinarello with original 1st gen 87 Chorus. In 93 I switched it over to a full Chorus 8 speed group. Last year, I rebuilt it with that hideous ahead stem adapter shown below - didnt seat properly due to the SLX flutes in the steerer. I just received early gen, all silver 10 speed Chorus Ergos and front and rear derailleurs from the Bay and will be building it up again over the next few weeks, and going back to the Cinelli quill stem and bars. I recommend picking up a Campy cable set - you can get them from Merlin or maybe Excel Sports down around $40 - gives you all the bits you need, and they work quite well - never tried Jagwire to compare though.

Originally Posted by SJX426
CyclingFool95 - So thats what my Pinarello should look like! There is a pearl like translucent finish on this scheme that has totally degraded on mine. Speaking of which

tNuvolari - Be careful about the ergos When you get to 10 speed, they get expensive. There are several versions, most notably BB System and QS system. I decided to keep my Pinarello as an 8V bike. It is just fine with the exception of the lower gear that is lacking. Here is a picture of it now that reflects the description above. Oh and it has a 9V Chorus RD.
CConversion95, on Flickr

My favorite paint livery ever! And two Italian ice Pinarellos in my thread! Beautiful! Maybe at some point! I've seen a few Spumoni Pinarellos on Ebay for around $250 or so and up. My frame is Columbus Aelle which I know is the entry level Columbus tubing. Other than lighter weight, would I notice an SL frame over mine? I'm 5'9" and <150lbs so I'm not really very taxing on a frame. Just curious as to what I would notice.

Oh, and I do tend to notice things. See my next post about some new additions which I've enjoyed so far....
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Old 05-23-20, 02:40 PM
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The new saddle from Ebay, an Astute. And the old beast from 1987! The new one is about half the weight too. The old one was not comfortable and always seemed to scoot me forward and then I would have to realign myself. The new one also does that but only a handful of times versus every few minutes. Maybe it's me....

The new seat feels great! It's stiff, like a sports car but I love sports cars, so I like this. But it's not harsh, even over bigger bumps. You feel everything but not in a bad way. In contrast, the old seat masked the small imperfections but then slammed on the bigger stuff so it was numb and painful. This is the first time I've ridden the hollowed out center and wow, does it work well! Technology, yay! It's pretty unbelievable that it is this comfortable as the padding is hard/thin and the structure is so stiff. Of course, I'm only riding 12 miles these days and I've only ridden this saddle once so this opinion is possible to change as I increase my riding. Still, much better than the old one.

I also got an old Athena headset and which I admit is just pretty. It does spin smoother and is beautifully made with layers of hardened steel complimented by perfectly machined aluminum. It does spin much more precisely but I didn't really notice when riding. I could definitely feel it when spinning it during installation. It does feel smoother and less jerky as the old Ofmega headset seemed to not spin smoothly and would catch. Ok, that's what my inner mind is telling me to justify the purchase.
Oh, also, the bearing races had visual darker spots where the bearings rubbed or impacted. I can't really feel them but is this normal or did I buy a headset that's on its last legs?

And the pics:






And I have to say that I love these brakes! I know the newer dual pivot are better but these are pure art. Please disregard the slight chrome pitting. Not sure I would ever lose these...of course if the newer brakes could make my nose bleed with crazy braking forces then I'm sure I could look past their homely looks! (The skeletons are slowly growing on me but none of the others have any hope!)
Actually, I would love to hear how newer brakes compare to my old Athenas.

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Old 05-23-20, 02:57 PM
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Nice saddle - the Star-line Astute saddles are my current favorite - they're pretty hard to find. I have a couple of Sky-lites but I'm not sure I like them as much.

The monoplanars are pretty, and have good stopping power (for a single pivot design). With modern rubber they can do a good job but can be difficult to set up.
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Old 05-23-20, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by CyclingFool95
Nice saddle - the Star-line Astute saddles are my current favorite - they're pretty hard to find. I have a couple of Sky-lites but I'm not sure I like them as much.

The monoplanars are pretty, and have good stopping power (for a single pivot design). With modern rubber they can do a good job but can be difficult to set up.
Ah, so you mean I lucked out on the seat? Cool as I don't know much about Astute other than they look good and there was some guy on the bikeforum classifieds selling a bunch of Astutes for $15 when I first signed up but I missed them! Still, got this one for $30 shipped and definitely worth it.
Yeah, the monoplanars are nice. My Kool Stops are working pretty good for me now although I can see from how they're wearing that only about 40% of the pad appears to be making contact with the rim. Still new so maybe need more break-in.

On the earlier comment about 8 speeds, that is definitely the most economical way to go. The used parts are much cheaper for all parts concerned. I have already bought a 10 speed right lever, yes, just right and now I know how that was dumb, and a 10 speed cassette as well as both derailleurs in 10 speed.
I still need a left ergo lever, chain, cables, and I want to replace the bars and stem. And the biggest problem: a rear wheel. I'm having trouble finding a wheel or Wheelset for cheap. Or my usual extreme discount method.
But then I'm done, promise. Ok, we all know that's not true. Then maybe an Italian Ice. Or De Rosa. Or a carbon fiber Pinarello off Ebay for $300! What's up with those? Are they genuine? Is buying used carbon a risky idea? Lots on there for super cheap and they sure are nice....
It sure is a slippery slope, isn't it?
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Old 05-29-20, 03:31 PM
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To continue my Pinarello hijacking of this thread, here's a photo of my build, completed a couple of hours ago with the wrapping of the Cinelli 66-42 bars. I just had the bike out for the first time since, oh, 1996. Still fits me like a glove and rides like nothing else I own (and that's in a good way). 10 speed Chorus levers and rear derailleur, 10 speed Record front, 8 speed Chorus brake calipers, 9/10 Stronglight Impact compact crankset, 12-29 cassette on late gen Record hubs, Cinelli bars and stem, Selle Italia C2 saddle on out of place Thomson post (can't find my Chorus aero post), Time Xpresso 6 pedals.

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Old 05-29-20, 05:22 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by CyclingFool95

Beautiful bike!
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Old 05-29-20, 05:48 PM
  #57  
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I'm getting excited as I can almost see the end of index shifting! And keep in mind I've never ridden a bike with index shifting! Ever! Not even a single shift. So far I like the improvements even if I stopped here but I've managed to find the most costly and difficult item to find: the wheels. And found them locally for embarrassingly cheap! Enjoy the new-to-me Campy Vento G3 wheels, complete with 12-25 10 speed cassette.







They're early version with the smaller flange hub and they've been ridden a bit but still seem to have some life on them. The rear wheel is true but the front needs some attention as it seems a bit out and also the hub seems slightly rough. I suspect I can get new bearings for the hub and redo it myself-I believe they're cartridge bearings and are available for next to nothing if not a little tricky to find. And the front spoke nipples are green. Other than that, they are exactly what I was looking for. My old Campy Athena quick releases will work so no troubles there. I'm just waiting for a Campy Veloce 10 speed chain to arrive and then I can at least get the 10 speed gears on the bike even if I'm not ready with the Ergo levers. I only have the right lever so far. I'm actually glad I don't as I'll try using it in friction mode for awhile. I think I could live with the friction method but I really want to get the levers on the bars so I don't have to reach down for shifting. Now as it is, I find myself not shifting just because I don't want to remove my hands and upset the stability of the bike. Not sure if my bike is just twitchy or if I've just gotten older but it is an awkward move to shift. Throw in a road irregularity and it's not enjoyable. I'm sure you guys can appreciate when you're tired and out of breath and every little added bit of motion almost hurts! Or is it just my out of shape aging body....?

Oh, I wanted to ask about truing G3 wheels. Is there anything I need to know? I've priced the front truing at $25 which is the same as a standard spoke arrangement and I was sure to ask if they could do G3 which they said "yes." I've read the small flange hubs can be tricky to keep trued. Regardless, I really only need the rear wheel but it's nice to get the set. And all for $50! Thank you, craigslist and the guy who bought a bike that came with these wheels and has no need for Campy parts and who is temporarily in LA working and just needs to unload stuff before leaving!

I think I got lucky on this purchase. Although, he could have given me some tires....

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Old 05-30-20, 07:37 AM
  #58  
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Those should be fairly straightforward to true. Do you have a stand or will you do it on the frame using the calipers? It should be fairly easy to find the right size bearing. The harder part is you need a tool to pop out the old one.

Back in 2018 I bought a Colnago. It came with an STI right side lever but down tube for the front shifting. I suspect the left one was damaged and the previous owner got it running again with what was cheap/available. You could always do that for now to get on the road and try it out.

I haven't much liked downtube shifting since late 1993. I was telling my wife this story the other day so its back in my mind. I was on a group ride - around 20 miles into the ride we were averaging 20 mph. We hit a steep climb in Nyack N that I wasnt familiar withY - I was on the Pinarello with downtube index shifters with one gear left. The hill got steep, I started slowing down. Couldnt get my hand down to shift. Came to a dead halt and fell over sideways. A month later, the 7 speed CHorus was gone, replaced by a shiny new 8 speed Ergo groupset.
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Old 05-30-20, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer
.
...if you really have to have indexed shifting (that works well) on an 80's Italian bike, the indexing stuff that worked in the 80's was Shimano. I think this has already been hinted at, but permit me to say it plainly. Campagnolo took a while to produce a solid indexed shifting system. A while meaning in this context many years. I second the above idea to just get yourself some really nice smooth friction DT shifters as the most rational upgrade.
I don't know when Campagnolo brought out indexing, at what level, and how long it took to trickle it down, but we have a bike that had was built new with full Mirage 3X8 Ergopower-based system, and it works perfectly if you don't mind a bit of audible announcement that a shift has been completed.
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Old 05-30-20, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RiddleOfSteel
...and hopefully with its friend, Cable Housing. They make a great pair!
Conan says, the housing and the cable need to be sized to match if their going to let you crush your pedals. The riddle of cable length is as important as the riddle of steel!

LOL!!!
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Old 05-31-20, 02:12 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by CyclingFool95
Those should be fairly straightforward to true. Do you have a stand or will you do it on the frame using the calipers? It should be fairly easy to find the right size bearing. The harder part is you need a tool to pop out the old one.
I thought the $25 charge for truing is acceptable as I don't really know what I'm doing and I was under the impression that G3 wheels were more difficult to true than standard spoking.

Originally Posted by CyclingFool95
​​​​​
Back in 2018 I bought a Colnago. It came with an STI right side lever but down tube for the front shifting. I suspect the left one was damaged and the previous owner got it running again with what was cheap/available. You could always do that for now to get on the road and try it out.

I haven't much liked downtube shifting since late 1993. I was telling my wife this story the other day so its back in my mind. I was on a group ride - around 20 miles into the ride we were averaging 20 mph. We hit a steep climb in Nyack N that I wasnt familiar withY - I was on the Pinarello with downtube index shifters with one gear left. The hill got steep, I started slowing down. Couldnt get my hand down to shift. Came to a dead halt and fell over sideways. A month later, the 7 speed CHorus was gone, replaced by a shiny new 8 speed Ergo groupset.
Yeah, I thought about doing that with the one DT lever but I'm trying to change bars and stem to something a little nicer and also change out the dingy white cork tape to new tan colored tape so I'm just going to wait until I have everything needed and do it all at once. That way I can save my old bars, stem and levers as is in case I ever want to return the bike to original status.

Ha on the dead stop fall over; reminds me of the dada film by Dali and Bunuel where the guy does that. I think it's Un Chien Andalou.
And glad to know it's not just me who resists the need to shift.
Oh, and thumbs up on the averaging 20mph! I have work to do! I've already learned enough to know that I love going fast. 15 and above is where life begins. 18-20 is perfect but I'm not in shape yet so I tend to ride as fast as I can until I hit the wall, slow down or stop to rest and then do it again. Maybe I should just get a Ducati!
I am enjoying the bike a lot though and I am improving so that's all I need for now.
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Old 05-31-20, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by P!N20
Campy’s attempts at downtube index shifting were average at best. If you really want indexed gears, look at Ergo levers - even the earliest models (8 speed) are so much better than the Syncro 2 downtube index shifters.
8 speed synchro can actually be rather brilliant. Not exactly sure which model shifters I have (Chorus or Athena, Synchro II without the knurled knob), but they shift perfectly and feel amazing. They put the indexed Shimano on my Lotus to shame.
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Old 06-01-20, 12:22 AM
  #63  
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Campy claim their G3 rims are manufactured differently because of the large unsupported rim areas and can only be trued properly in a rig that applies external tension.
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Old 06-01-20, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by robertorolfo
8 speed synchro can actually be rather brilliant.
I wish I was on the same page - I've never managed to get my 8 speed Record levers to work, they just jump out of gear at the low end. I've just ordered some new springs in a last ditch effort to get them working, so we'll see. Shame though, they look amazing. Out of interest, do you know if your levers are the two spring or three spring version?
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Old 06-01-20, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by tNuvolari
My favorite paint livery ever! And two Italian ice Pinarellos in my thread! Beautiful! Maybe at some point! I've seen a few Spumoni Pinarellos on Ebay for around $250 or so and up. My frame is Columbus Aelle which I know is the entry level Columbus tubing. Other than lighter weight, would I notice an SL frame over mine? I'm 5'9" and <150lbs so I'm not really very taxing on a frame. Just curious as to what I would notice.
Oh, and I do tend to notice things.
There is a famous article where a journalist did a blind test with the various Columbus tubesets (I'm sure someone will have the link handy), and the Aelle actually did quite well in his opinion. The overall conclusion was basically that the construction matters more than the tubing, as the differences can be difficult to perceive.

Originally Posted by tNuvolari
And I have to say that I love these brakes! I know the newer dual pivot are better but these are pure art. Please disregard the slight chrome pitting. Not sure I would ever lose these...of course if the newer brakes could make my nose bleed with crazy braking forces then I'm sure I could look past their homely looks! (The skeletons are slowly growing on me but none of the others have any hope!)
Actually, I would love to hear how newer brakes compare to my old Athenas.
I have some monoplaners and a couple of pairs of skeletons (which I actually like the look of, even if nothing compares to the monoplaners). They both brake very well with a good set of rims. The skeletons are almost overkill, and they need very little lever pressure in most situations. Obviously the monolplaners call for a tighter squeeze, but that is probably down to the lever shape (I really prefer the feel of the newer ergonomic levers more than anything), and in the drops the monoplaners are plenty powerful since you can grip and modulate them so well.

Originally Posted by P!N20
I wish I was on the same page - I've never managed to get my 8 speed Record levers to work, they just jump out of gear at the low end. I've just ordered some new springs in a last ditch effort to get them working, so we'll see. Shame though, they look amazing. Out of interest, do you know if your levers are the two spring or three spring version?
I actually looked up one of my old posts to double check, and indeed I have the three spring version. Not only that, but someone had posted that the three spring version isn't even considered Syncro II, but a later version. But, like I said, they shift wonderfully.

As for the G-springs, they might not look worn out, but replacing them might really help. I guess you could also try tightening down the mounding screw as much as you can without making it uncomfortably hard to shift.
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Old 06-01-20, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by robertorolfo
I actually looked up one of my old posts to double check, and indeed I have the three spring version. Not only that, but someone had posted that the three spring version isn't even considered Syncro II, but a later version. But, like I said, they shift wonderfully.
Yeah Syncro effectively ended with 8 speed, although there were apparently some 8 speed 'dual mode' Syncro shifters. I think the 3 spring shifters made a big improvement on shifting performance.

Originally Posted by robertorolfo
I guess you could also try tightening down the mounding screw as much as you can without making it uncomfortably hard to shift.
Yeah I tried that - tightened it using a screwdriver threaded through the D ring for leverage! Didn't really make much difference as it's the G-springs that hold the position, unlike friction shifters.
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Old 06-02-20, 11:01 AM
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Just to be clear, mine are three-spring 8 speed shifters. I bought them used, so I don't know if they were modified or originally came that way. Perhaps I just got really lucky.

I also bought a used bike last year with 7 speed, but it was in rough shape and I haven't had a chance to try and fix it up and test the shifting.
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Old 06-02-20, 12:38 PM
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I run Shimano and Campy 10S indexed shifting on mine. I grabbed a bunch of Campy 10S bar end shifters off ebay many moons ago and pull them apart and use them on the down tubes, I have some Shimano indexed shifters from the period also and use them with Jtek Shiftmates and Campy derailleurs.
When I find some pics I'll post them.


JTek Shiftmate, Campagnolo 10s Rear, Dura Ace 10s index

JTek Shiftmate, Campagnolo 10s Rear, Dura Ace 10s index


Campy Bar End 10s Indexed, on a Huret clamp, 10s Campy Rear

Campy Bar End 10s Indexed, on a Huret clamp, 10s Campy Rear
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Old 06-02-20, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Mackers
Campy claim their G3 rims are manufactured differently because of the large unsupported rim areas and can only be trued properly in a rig that applies external tension.
Hmmm, so how many places have the rig? Do I need to worry about this or just true it at the LBS?



Originally Posted by robertorolfo
There is a famous article where a journalist did a blind test with the various Columbus tubesets (I'm sure someone will have the link handy), and the Aelle actually did quite well in his opinion. The overall conclusion was basically that the construction matters more than the tubing, as the differences can be difficult to perceive.
If anyone has the link, I'd love to read it. I'm guessing the big difference is weight. I think the Aelle frame weighs almost 2 lbs more than an SL. That's what I remember reading awhile back but I could be wrong.


So I finally got my rear wheel and 10 speed cassette on the bike. I took a quick spin around the block, breaking curfew...ha ha, and it shifts so smoothly and quickly. Also, the lever travel is very slight so a gear change comes with barely a flick. I'm still using the 10 speed gears/Chorus RD with the old friction DT shifters and cables. I still have to find a left Ergo lever and new bars and stem before I make the switch to index.
The friction lever can barely control all 10 speeds. See the picture of the lever on the 25 tooth gear to see what I mean.
And there is absolutely no overshifting required. You just barely move the lever and there's a soft click and then new gear. It's a nice feel, very low spring effort to counter. I could live with it but I still want the levers on the bars. And since the toggle is so slight for a gear change, it can be tough to click off a single gear and find the proper gear you want.
Still not really a ride so I'll see how it goes on a real ride as soon as the events calm down a bit. Oh, and there's no curfew.
Stay safe everyone! And some pics:



10 speeds, 12-25, where 6 were.



Yes, I know, the cable....It's all I've got right now.




The right lever where it needs to be for the big rear cog. Good thing I didn't go for 11 speed!


Oh, about the chain. I bought a Veloce 10 speed chain and a KMC missing link. I also bought an amazon generic chain breaker, missing link opener/closer and chain measurement checker. But after reading the Campy instructions, they are very adamant that the master link never be removed and in order to use the KMC Missing Link, I would have needed to remove the Campy master link. So I thought I would just try and use my chain breaker with the Campy pin. And it all worked fine, very easy and no trouble at all. I'm not sure what all the talk about having to use the Campy chain breaker is about. Is my chain going to self destruct now? I can always use the Missing Link later if I need to. And not sure why I have never read that anyone had ever used a standard chain tool on Campy chains but I haven't so I thought it physically was completely different and would never work.

Also, I had read that the sticky lubricant that comes on the chain should be removed and the chain oiled/lubed with your favorite lubricant so I wiped a bunch of it off. Then I came across Sheldon Brown's page about how the lubricant that comes on chains is far better than any other type and that it is completely inside the chain so you should just use it straight from the box as is until it gets dirty and wears off.
So what is the general consensus about all this?
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Old 06-03-20, 02:17 AM
  #70  
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Can't help you with the truing issue. From what I have been told it's a pretty specialist item and probably only found at an official Campagnolo service center.

I can tell you that your need to fix that loop at the rear derailleur. It needs to be a lot larger for reliable shifting. What you have now causes way too much friction
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Old 06-03-20, 05:31 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by tNuvolari
So what is the general consensus about all this?
I suggest the Velominati need a new rule.

Rule #96 // Factory chain lubrication is refined in Valinor and under no circumstance will be forcibly removed prior to installation.
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Old 06-03-20, 06:11 AM
  #72  
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tNuvolari LOvely bike and I am sure you will enjoy it!
Just to be clear, the brakes are NOT monoplanar. They are from the same era. The design is very close to the same and are often confused with the real deal. Even sellers on ebay confuse them. Monoplanar actually has one of the arm go through the middle of the other, hence the name.
P1010556, on Flickr

Monoplanars were offered in nearly every line up from Campagnolo, including Athena, except Record. Some of the differences are very subtle and others are obvious. Check out VELOBASE for identifications.
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Old 06-03-20, 11:19 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by canopus
I run Shimano and Campy 10S indexed shifting on mine. I grabbed a bunch of Campy 10S bar end shifters off ebay many moons ago and pull them apart and use them on the down tubes, I have some Shimano indexed shifters from the period also and use them with Jtek Shiftmates and Campy derailleurs.
Whoa, is that a century grey Centaur rear derailleur you have in the first pic? That century finish is gorgeous in my opinion (both iterations). The Jennifer Aniston of component finishes.

Originally Posted by tNuvolari
If anyone has the link, I'd love to read it. I'm guessing the big difference is weight. I think the Aelle frame weighs almost 2 lbs more than an SL. That's what I remember reading awhile back but I could be wrong.

Still not really a ride so I'll see how it goes on a real ride as soon as the events calm down a bit. Oh, and there's no curfew.

Oh, about the chain. I bought a Veloce 10 speed chain and a KMC missing link. I also bought an amazon generic chain breaker, missing link opener/closer and chain measurement checker. But after reading the Campy instructions, they are very adamant that the master link never be removed and in order to use the KMC Missing Link, I would have needed to remove the Campy master link.

Also, I had read that the sticky lubricant that comes on the chain should be removed and the chain oiled/lubed with your favorite lubricant so I wiped a bunch of it off. Then I came across Sheldon Brown's page about how the lubricant that comes on chains is far better than any other type and that it is completely inside the chain so you should just use it straight from the box as is until it gets dirty and wears off.
So what is the general consensus about all this?
Don't sell your Aelle frame short! I found a scan of the article (not the best quality I have seen, but it's legible), and you can see that it isn't too much heavier, and the tester really liked the ride.

I was also out riding after curfew last night. A shakedown ride takes precedence!

I use KMC missing links with my Campagnolo chains. It's fairly common, and there don't seem to be any major reliability issues with it. Performance is totally fine.

And I also run chains straight from the bag with the factory grease/lube. I do wipe down the excess from chain (especially on the sides), but that's about it. I even rub some of the factory grease onto my fingers to lube up the KMC link before I install it.
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Old 06-03-20, 03:35 PM
  #74  
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I use a standard Park chain tool to push out the Campy pin in my Chorus chains, and then use SRAM, or KMC or whatever brand of link I have. You only need the missing link tool for opening it back up (and even at that you can get by without it). If you dont have the tool and want to lock the link, just lock the back brake and stomp on the pedals - it's better to push a bit by hand first to make sure it's seated correctly.

My 1st gen Chorus monoplanars, still dirty after 25 years on the Montello, and the very pretty Deltas that I'm scared to use.


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Old 06-06-20, 09:37 AM
  #75  
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In December 2018 I treated myself to a Christmas present and bought the De Rosa SLX as shown in the foreground off Craigslist. It sold exactly as shown, without cables, chain, bar tape and a few small items missing. The seller told me he no longer rode it and didn't want to put any more effort to complete rebuilding it. The frame and components were in very good shape. Campy C Record 8 speed brifters.


De Rosa SLX 88/89? frame with Campy C Record 8 speed components

I wanted to downgrade the brifters to Campy Synchro downtube shifters to give it more of a vintage look. Here's the completed bike:

Bought Synchro shifters, brake levers off Ebay

I bought a set of Campy Ergopower brake/derailleur cable/housing set and put everything together. Everything indexed properly on the bike repair stand and didn't need any fine tuning. I didn't know what all the fuss was about with the Campy indexed products. Took the bike out for a 20 mile ride and everything worked flawlessly. On my 2nd 20 mile ride I was 6 miles short of returning home and the Synchro shifter slipped to the high gear and lost all the ratcheting ability. The lever was no longer indexing nor could it hold any position with friction so I had to pedal home in high gear - fortunately it was relatively flat.

I took the Synchro shifter off off the frame leaving the lever plate and the ferruled washer on the shifter braze on boss on the frame. I was expecting to find a broken spring but everything looked to be in perfect shape. The used Synchro shifter I bought off Ebay looked in excellent shape when I bought it and all the parts looked perfect. I put everything back on the frame and no luck. The shifter would not ratchet or hold in any gear. I took the shifter off the frame again leaving the lever plate and ferruled washer on the braze on boss, cleaned everything, lubed and re-assembled everything back on the frame. No luck. After a while I took a look at the washer on the braze on boss and noticed it is not a flat washer but has a ferrule on one side of the washer. Well, I had put the washer on backwards. I had the ferrule on the wrong side and apparently the height of the ferrule was preventing the lever assembly to be tightened enough to engage the indexing ratchet. When I first installed the lever I guess the control lever plate that goes on the braze on boss wasn't pushed in all the way to the frame and the lever assembly was able to tighten up against the lever plate. When the lever plate moved closer to the frame there was no longer enough friction to hold all the components together because the washer with the ferrule was backwards and didn't allow the assembly to be tightened up against the lever plate. Boy did I feel dumb. Fortunately I wasn't stranded far from home when my Synchro shifter malfunctioned. I rode 20 miles on the De Rosa last weekend and the indexing was spot on, but it was on a relatively flat course.

I have yet to climb hills with my 8-speed Synchro set up so I haven't experienced the low gear slippage reported by the others in this thread. I don't ride the De Rosa much but at least I'm more familiar with the Campy Synchro setup. This is the first vintage bike I've owned that has indexed shifting on it. All my other vintage bikes are friction shifting but I may try adding indexing on on another bike using the Campy 8-speed brifters that came with the De Rosa. I'll need to find some Campy 8-speed components (rear derailleur, chain, cassette) and decide which frame to put it on.


I had installed washer SL-RE008 backwards!

Last edited by momoman; 06-06-20 at 09:56 AM.
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