tiger1964 

Shoot, read some a long time ago; a search reveals a gazillion topics where the word is mentioned, most have a passing mention somewhere around post #147 . Guidance on finding info on specifically doing an entire frame?Direction to the best topic, here or off-BF? I recall reading (a) a molded baby pool, (b) making some kind of plastic-sheet shallow immersion bath. Do you dilute? Getting ready to order a couple of gallons. Seems like a good FAQ thing.

I am dismantling four bikes (the Gitane, Falcon, Drysdale and Zeus) and, prior to taking in for powder coating, I want them as clean of grease and other contaminants, and rust, as possible. While I have a bath/tank, probably gonna clean up bunch of components too. I am expecting an interesting fall and winter rebuilding all of them.

brian3069

Have you considered oxalic acid, it's far more economical.

https://www.google.com/search?q=oxal...w=1280&bih=607

Velo Mule

You could use one of those vacuum formed kiddie pools. It will take lots of Evaporust to fill to the right level. You could also try getting some 4 x 4" pieces of wood. Maybe 2 x 6" would give a little more height. Then a sheet of plastic that forms a pool just larger than you frame so that you don't have to use so many gallons filling volume that you don't need.

The other technique that I have seen discussed, but not used myself is to wrap paper towels or cloth dipped in Evaporust over the frame and then wrap plastic wrap over the cloth or paper to slow the evaporation rate. Come back the next day, remove the plastic and the soaked paper or cloth and the frame should look clean.

Do not dilute Evaporust.

One good thing about the immersion method is that it will clear up any rust that might be inside the frame.

Let us know how you go about doing this and how the results work out.

noobinsf 

I recall this thread, with the unexpected search term of "sausage."

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...t-sausage.html

Andy_K 

I've done this a couple of times, once with decent results, once not. I think it depends on how thick the rust is. For think surface rust, this technique will work. You might need to scrub a little and repeat. For thicker build ups of rust, I can't recommend it. However, I would note that EvapoRust now comes in gel form. If you've got isolated rust spots to treat, that should do the trick. For full frame cleaning, probably the acid bath is a better way to go.

jonwvara 

Here's a method I have used successfully a number of times:

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...evaporust.html

I shouldn't have dissed oxalic acid in the initial post. I was a little taken aback at the fierceness of the oxalic acid defenders.

machinist42

Unless I become an apiarist, I've recently purchased more Oxalic Acid than I'll ever use, because 5 lbs are on sale for less than $20 with free shipping.

I line an empty bike box with an opened "Gorilla Bag," very large volume air cushion sacks used to fill empty spaces in 18 wheelers delivering to "the place which shall not be named." They are usually discarded or recycled. I immerse an ultrasonic generator into the fluid. I suppose you could lay it on its side like a kiddie pool, but I keep it upright with a second Gorilla Bag encasing it to keep it from harm's way.

Rust never sleeps and I don't much anymore either.

masonv45

Lots of videos on youtube of rust removal using electrolysis.

Going to do that with a motorcycle tank this weekend.

oneclick 

I did that; of course all the rust is on the inside, I made a wooden plug to fit through the filler hole and put a wire mesh anode inside. Test with your ohmeter first, don't want a short.

I use electrolytic de-rusting in preference to all other methods - less work, no nasty chems, most metal intact. I do so much I have "NEGATIVE TO THE PART" written on the charger.

Dead simple to do a frame the same way, kiddie pool or a 6-mil sheet of poly made into a pool folded into a rectangular frame of 1x6 wood placed on the ground.

rustystrings61 

The method I have used was to wrap the frame in blue paper shop towels and tack them into place with masking tape; liberally soak the towels with Evapo-Rust; wrap everything in mover's cling film (though food cling wrap would work just as well, I think); let sit overnight, rinse and dry. My experience is it works better on small parts than on frames, but the results have been generally good. The one time it didn't achieve solid results was when I tried that on a Raleigh Competition fork that had been allowed to weather for a very long time. On that one, the chrome was sloughing off like a snake's skin and there was a substantial crust of rust that in the end required a bronze brush to clean up.

tiger1964 

.


Great feedback!

I like that, need to pick up some lumber but I already have a roll of 'heavy' plastic but I'll try to measure thickness with a micrometer. Not sure if any types of plastic are susceptible to dissolving! Hmm, I wonder if I can/should put bricks in Zip-Loc bags for additional "displacement"?

Great deal although I just paid more, via Prime, should be here Saturday. I do have a containers of Evaporust for aluminum parts but I presume anything steel I can drop into the "frame pool" after/during the immersion of the four frames (only one of which has significant surface rust, but I might as well dip all four).

ryansu

I used this method with oxyalic acid to remove rust from a Trek 520 the Home depot plastic planter needed to be taped up and I added a cheap emergency blanket just to be sure but it didn't leak and served its purpose. Soak rinse rotate repeat.

madpogue 

^^^^ What about the seat tube?

ryansu

There's always one...., Yes the seat tube doesn't work for this method but everything else does and the Seat tube was the the one I was least concerned about. And the bits I could not get to I used naval Jelly on,

jonwvara 

Don't worry about the thickness of the plastic--any reasonably strong poly sheeting will work. No need to use bricks for additional displacement unless you want to cut back on the amount of plain water needed to fill the main container--the "waterbed" portion. You need less than 2 gallons of Evaporust to fill the frame-shaped depression in the top sheet that floats on the water.

I hope that makes sense. I really should have taken photos last time I did this.

mech986 

A local Pep Boys is a good place to get Evapo-Rust. Search under Evapo and you get result. They seem to offer an instant 25% off on store pickup items if you order online. Always check to be sure your local store has stock before going in. Can be a nice way to save a few bucks while getting your favorite rust remover solution. You can also pay in store as well. Good luck!

https://www.pepboys.com/search/?text=evapo

https://www.pepboys.com/evapo-rust-s...426?quantity=1

https://www.pepboys.com/evapo-rust-g...905?quantity=1

SJX426 

A wall paper tray can work well for forks. I built a 2x6 frame using hinges for the joints. Covered with a sheet of plastic to make the "pool." Most kids pools are too small for a large frame. I made sure the lengths of the wood were long enough to work with larger frames. The hinges allow for adjustment of the overall shape. My method is using Oxilic.

tiger1964 

What I ordered was a pet pool, 39" diameter and should work -- I checked a few of the frames I have, should be OK. Might take a bunch o' bricks to displace enough to lower the # of gallons. Plus I can insert forks, components, etc. as needed. Wow, the Target is close by and I hoped to find a cheap rigid molded kiddie pool but looking on-line, they do not stock (???) A search revealed Walmart has them but so far away I doubted I could get it home in one piece. So, back to ordering from Amazon, lots of choices but most too big or too small, hence the doggie pool.

By the way, is it OK to use Evaporust or Oxalic indoors? Outdoors, I worry about the weather during a long soak.

SJX426 

tiger1964 I use it in the garage even with the door closed. I don't think it gives off any significant fumes, but I am not a chemist.

curbtender

I have these storage bags that you load and seal then suck the air out with a vacuum. You could probably do a frame in a large trash bag or even a body bag the same way.

madpogue 

Show of hands, who has one in the closet?


Okay, I don't really want to know.....

tiger1964 

Sounds efficient but once the air is vacuumed out, does that pull the bag to the frame and thus prevents the liquid from contacting the desired surfaces?

The oxalic acid arrives today, but I presume that Step One must be cleaning off any dirt/grease from the frame and parts. Preparation, preparation, preparation.

curbtender

I haven't tried it, just thinking how you might get by with out using so much chemical. I've done the acid bath in a large mortar tub but you need to dispose of it after. The evaporust is the way to go, but expensive. As far as body bags, just trying to boost my pandemic investment account...I did a group backpacking trip in the seventies and one of the guys had an uncle that worked for the CHP. He brought a bunch of body bags for us to use as tents. They worked great, but the thought of climbing into them in an area called Desolation Wilderness never felt right.

tiger1964 

OK, now that I've shifted gears and trying oxalic acid (first), any pointers on mixing dilution, and how long to leave the frame in? I have the acid and the pool here.

tiger1964 

Never mind - this time Search helped.

Perhaps I should have checked on the forum at archimedes.net first. In a 39" pool, and the highest point of a frame laid on its side being the rear dropout, that's a lot of volume. I made up about 18 gallons of liquid, dropped in one frame, two forks (and will add some small parts later), and I inserted 36 bricks and the high-side dropout is just now awash. I presume that, due to evaporation, I'll need to add some water over the next three days.

This makes a purpose-built frame-sized try a good option.