About to straighten out my derailleur hanger. Any advice?
#76
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To nail it home.....
No washer is needed because the wheel's mounting faces serves that purpose.
Also consider the nature of the force applied. It's not straight across as would be with a press, but a twisting force applied as a torque, which helps move the hanger in an arc.
In any case, those familiar with bike repair know that this job is very common and easily done (in steel) with no complications.
No washer is needed because the wheel's mounting faces serves that purpose.
Also consider the nature of the force applied. It's not straight across as would be with a press, but a twisting force applied as a torque, which helps move the hanger in an arc.
In any case, those familiar with bike repair know that this job is very common and easily done (in steel) with no complications.
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The answer is kind of like "how many men does it take to fix a pothole?" One, of course, but a dozen or more (a) BF people "helping" or (b) truck drivers, flagmen, backhoe operators, and supervisors.
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Parallel.
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FWIW -I was referencing the screw axis.
In my world, we'd often say square to mean either parallel or perpendicular, or both.
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Update
Finally got a chance to work on this! Made some initial progress with the Park Tool Derailleur Alignment Gauge, the older chrome one.
Things were going pretty well until the rear wheel fell out. It was then that I realized that the hanger had been pulled back, opening up the dropout...
Bike Friday advised me to use a crescent wrench (positioned in line with the dropout and frame) to bend the dropout forward again, using an axle keep from pulling it too far. It worked great.
I then remounted the rear wheel and continued to use the DAG. I'm pretty close now.
I'll be doing the final alignment soon and then mounting a new RD and putting the bike back together.
For those that have used the DAG - how precise do you need to be? 1mm between measuring points? 2mm? more?
Thanks everyone for your help!
Things were going pretty well until the rear wheel fell out. It was then that I realized that the hanger had been pulled back, opening up the dropout...
Bike Friday advised me to use a crescent wrench (positioned in line with the dropout and frame) to bend the dropout forward again, using an axle keep from pulling it too far. It worked great.
I then remounted the rear wheel and continued to use the DAG. I'm pretty close now.
I'll be doing the final alignment soon and then mounting a new RD and putting the bike back together.
For those that have used the DAG - how precise do you need to be? 1mm between measuring points? 2mm? more?
Thanks everyone for your help!
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Consider the 12" length of the beam vs. 1or 2mm variation, then glance at a sine chart and it'll be obvious that the method is far more precise than necessary. Either is more than fine.
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About this thread: I had a hard time reading all of the 'over-the-top' advice given here, but accept that it was given in the spirit of helpfulness. The fact is that with the alignment tool, the job is quickly and easily accomplished. No need to over-complicate it with hydraulic presses, bench vises, etc. It does take a bit of finesse to determine the right angle for bending, but gentle nudges on the tool arm get you there nicely. Most first time users want to crank on the tool and go too far.
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Seems like there’s an “S” bend in there. How did that thing get so jacked up?
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1-2mm variance using three points of contact...bottom to set the gauge, top is the Y axis and left side of the wheel is the X axis, perpendicular to the Y axis...is great.
Good job especially fixing the dropout...I've had to do that in the past and it is not a lot of fun and there really aren't any specific tools to fix it other than a good Crescent wrench.
Well done, chapeau...
Good job especially fixing the dropout...I've had to do that in the past and it is not a lot of fun and there really aren't any specific tools to fix it other than a good Crescent wrench.
Well done, chapeau...
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Great job!
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Thanks again everyone for your help and support! The All Packa is back on the road!
The Advent Super Short is a 1x but I'm currently running a 50/34 2x front. The derailleur works great with the 34T. If I try with the 50T, I can only use the smaller end of the cassette. I may try swapping out the 50T for a 42T or something and see if it works. We'll see.
The Advent Super Short is a 1x but I'm currently running a 50/34 2x front. The derailleur works great with the 34T. If I try with the 50T, I can only use the smaller end of the cassette. I may try swapping out the 50T for a 42T or something and see if it works. We'll see.
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If nothing else, at least you cleaned your drivetrain.