Oakman

Doing some maintenance on a '88 GT Outpost and would like to replace the bottom bracket. While it's not too bad, it is pitted and I would prefer to replace the spindle/cone with a cartridge. From what I see, this would work: BB UN26 Square Taper JIS Bottom Bracket 68 X 123mm. However, the original uses nuts to attach the crank arms while new ones use bolts. Is this something I even need to consider?

repechage

Maybe- besides the overall length, there is the tip dimension to confirm.
swithching from nuts to bolts and washers should work, just make sure the washers are correct. They used to be packaged with bolts and washers.
I would avoid the self extracting type.
“ one key release “

dedhed

Cup & cone BB often have asymmetrical spindles while cartridges are usually symmetrical. Check sheldon for compatible lengths.
Measurement on threaded spindles(using nuts) is to the end of the taper, not the end of the threaded "stud"

​​​​​​https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html

Matters not whether the crank is held on with bolts or nuts. Some cartridges include the bolt, some do not. Verify and acquire bolts if needed.

Oakman

Thank you,. That's the first time I've had to replace a spindle like that. Hopefully it won't take a month or more to get a decent one.

SurferRosa

No. That's one thing that I wouldn't consider, and would look forward to replacing. I associate spindles that use nuts with cheap componentry.

DMC707

Confirmed -- nutted spindles were not regarded in a positive light back in the day

Road Fan

I believe nutted had a tendency for the studs to break off. Back when I looked into it many moons ago, that was the prevailing wisdom. I did not challenge it.

merziac

Don't think I have ever seen a nutted spindle on a higher end crankset.

Also haven't seen them on MTB's with lesser cranks that you would expect to see them on, which would go along with being weaker.

steelbikeguy

generally speaking, I agree. I recall the Sugino Maxy cranks that I've owned that used the nutted spindles. Inexpensive and not durable. Probably good enough for the intended customer. Better stuff, such as the Stronglight 93 or Campy Record that I bought later, had hollow axles and used bolts.

The only exception that I know of was a version of the Campy Super Record with the titanium axle. One version used a solid axle with a threaded stud at the ends. I saw one on display at Maplewood Bike shop in the St. Louis area, as installed on this Raleigh Team bike.



I've got a Phil Wood BB with titanium axle on my Raleigh Team, and it uses bolts. Don't recall if the axle is hollow, though.

Steve in Peoria

ThermionicScott 

I doubt it's within my power to break a spindle of any type, but a nutted spindle would definitely be heavier than a bolted one, for the same length and material. Not as big of a concern at the low end...

merziac

Well its very interesting in that likely the most high end spindle had studs and nuts, the revised Campy SR was "updated" to them after Fignon crashed from a broken one in 1982.

Guess I should never say ever, although I'm not sure if I have actually ever seen one in the flesh.

www.cyclingobsession.com, Campy SR bottom bracket review.

Drills down very well and has all the charts and specs.

seedsbelize2

None of those examples include washers. The crank I'm working on requires them. I may have some in the stash, but I'm not finding them. Do I have to go to a bike shop to buy official washers, or can I use any steel washer of the correct size?
I'm going to the city, on Friday, and can swing by the bike shop if need be.

Oakman

The old spindle looks to be original, part of a Sakae SX crankset. About midrange as far as I can tell.



Midrange?


There are many interesting things about this GT I'm overhauling. Built in 1988, among a group of bikes in the all new "All Terra line", the Outpost was their "hybrid" model and the only one lacking a triple triangle. The frame was built in Taiwan with Ishiwata chromoly tubes. The frame alone weighs 8 lbs w/o fork. It also has an All Terra steel stem with a plastic liner. It is the only part of the bike that faded to an orange color from red.

The RD is a Suntour Accushift with both index and friction shifting. The thumb shifters are made with heavy chromed steel and still work in either mode.
Finally, the original Araya rims remain tried and true.

Did I mention that the bike is heavy? It's not so much fun to ride as it is just a good old workhorse of a bike.


A $1000 bike in 1988?

dedhed

I've not seen "washers". The nut or bolt holding the crank arm on usually has an enlarged head.

​​​​​​https://www.google.com/search?q=squa...&bih=617&dpr=1

ThermionicScott 

Here's a picture of bolts that do need the washers (from Sheldon Brown):