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The Component Everyone Hates (Except You)

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Old 09-01-20, 08:30 PM
  #126  
SJX426 
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scarlson Bin there done that. Then I learned from this esteemed crowd that I had very bad taste!
B_Y_DS on Flickr

So I fixed it
IMG_20180707_074628 on Flickr
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Old 09-01-20, 08:45 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Trakhak

If the bike is ridden much, the steel hub eventually begins leaking lubricant at the seam between the flange and the central portion of the hub. Keep riding for a few years, and the flanges begin to migrate inward, thanks to road forces and spoke tension, until the central shaft starts scraping the bearing balls.
Trakhak Good point about steel hubs. Steel hubs are 3 piece affairs. As such, if these pieces are allowed to move relative to one another this will be the result. I am wondering if there might be differences between various steel hubs. For instance, Bendix coaster brakes, are also three piece designs, and it is pretty rare to have one of the flanges get loose. Are there better steel hubs? There are, no doubt crappy steel hubs. I believe that Worksman Cycles builds wheels with steel hubs. I have got to believe that they are using a better hub than a Huffy would.


These are probably the cheapest steel hub style.


This is made a little differently than the one above. The manufacturer had enough pride to put their name on this hub. Is this a better design? Does it come down to execution? Or should we just avoid steel hubs all together?

I will say that if I had a co-op near me, I wouldn't think about using steel hubs if I could get used aluminum hubs inexpensively and repack them with new ball bearings.
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Old 09-01-20, 09:10 PM
  #128  
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@scarlson, that's interesting. I'm sure there are many factors at play. I notice none of those problems. It could be the bike. It could be that my stoker has very low power output. I don't have to call out "pedal" or "coast," as it's obvious to her when we are transitioning; I just overpower her. It is a bit hard to see the front derailleur, but I can do it. It's impossible to see the rear derailleur.
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Old 09-02-20, 11:16 AM
  #129  
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Steel hubshells with a name stamped on them are usually going to be fine.

It's the unbranded WallyWorld hubs on like Mongoose bikes which are prone to having cups loosen or even the freewheel threads strip off. Lowest-grade materials and price-point dimensional tolerances do not a good combination make!

Axles and bearing cones as found in such hubs don't seem bad on the other hand. But cheap balls fitted into low-count retainers with little in the way of sealing or grease?

My MTB soldiers on with no-name steel hubs (wheels came from a Kmart Mongoose). The rear wheel already had a bent axle and loose cup when it left the store, from shipping trauma.
Pacific sent me a new rear wheel, meanwhile I LocTited the loose cup and installed a thicker 10mm axle and 10mm cones since it's a freewheel hub. I've had good luck with it ever since, but I service the bearings ~annually and have replaced the ball cages with full compliment 1/4" balls. Original axles were both solid 3/8" diameter, maybe because of the front disc brake(?). Still securing both wheels with hex nuts (easily loosened on the trail with a modified 4" adjustable wrench if the threads are kept oiled).

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Old 09-02-20, 03:01 PM
  #130  
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Carbon handlebars. I will explain. I bought a carbon fork for weight weenie build on a caad3.
I used alu bars on the build originally and I never got on with them and eventually decided to get rid of the caad3 it was just to stiff and the geometry was wrong.
So I switched the fork to a quality unknown steel frame along with the alu bars but I knew they where still a problem. So I took a chance on some Chinese carbon bars which looked like a good shape. 26 euros. It was just a test.
But wow they have springiness that is fantastic.
The tight curve (which I don't think you can get with alu) means I can position the levers so I can easily reach them with one finger and still be useable from the hoods. I ride the drops 90 percent of the time.
Better upgrade than carbon forks for comfort.
Turned a good bike into the best bike I have ever had.
And I have no fear of them asploding.
I have put hundreds of hard miles on the road and off road and no problems.
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Old 09-02-20, 10:43 PM
  #131  
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@blamester (and everyone else):
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Old 09-03-20, 01:15 AM
  #132  
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noglider thanks for that Tom. That was more entertaining than I expected. Still hate the look, but I can see some advantages in terms of comfort with the shape of the tops.
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Old 09-03-20, 09:13 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by browngw
I like the beauty of the spoke protector. I have a small collection, expect to see more!


Well Sekine made a beautiful spoke protector. I'd love to find one for my Sekine SHS 271!
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Old 09-03-20, 12:56 PM
  #134  
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How about white tape? Maybe not hated so much, but who hasn't been frustrated by the instant grunge it attracts?
Well, how's this for longevity? Fizik Performance wrapped in late spring of 2018. Have not wiped it clean once, and this is my primary rider. I love this tape.
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Old 09-03-20, 01:20 PM
  #135  
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I unabashedly love:
Cheap cork tape.
Cheap carbon bottle cages.
Cheap jerseys.
Rapha bibs.
Nashbar branded Look compatible pedals
Nashbar carbon handlebars

And of course: ShimaNO.
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Old 09-03-20, 09:23 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by bikemig
Well Sekine made a beautiful spoke protector. I'd love to find one for my Sekine SHS 271!
I had an SHS 271 that had no spoke protector either. I sold the bike as it felt a little small for me.
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