Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Mistakes have been made...steerer cut too short.

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Mistakes have been made...steerer cut too short.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-31-21, 09:33 AM
  #1  
einstruzende
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 86

Bikes: Time ZXRS, Dura Ace, Zipp 808.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Mistakes have been made...steerer cut too short.

As you can see, the steerer has been cut too short on my wife's bike. I can be blamed for this. I suspect I am going to have to buy a new fork, but perhaps there is an extender that is safe to use in this setup? Even 20mm would go a long way I think.

Failing that, does anyone know of a source of matte black forks that might be a suitable replacement? Doesn't necessarily have to be Colnago ...

(and yes the stem is upside down as an experiment. It didn't help and will be changed)
einstruzende is offline  
Old 03-31-21, 09:38 AM
  #2  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,509

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2746 Post(s)
Liked 3,390 Times in 2,053 Posts
You may be able to find a stem with a shorter "stack height" at the clamp.
dedhed is offline  
Old 03-31-21, 11:46 AM
  #3  
icemilkcoffee 
Senior Member
 
icemilkcoffee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,394
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1561 Post(s)
Liked 1,734 Times in 974 Posts
FSA Metropolis stem. They make these in both 70mm and 90mm versions:
icemilkcoffee is offline  
Likes For icemilkcoffee:
Old 03-31-21, 12:31 PM
  #4  
travbikeman
Senior Member
 
travbikeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Martinsburg WV Area
Posts: 1,704

Bikes: State 4130 Custom, Giant Trance 29

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 422 Post(s)
Liked 182 Times in 123 Posts
Just an idea, I have no experience on this so am not saying it works or not:

travbikeman is offline  
Old 03-31-21, 03:43 PM
  #5  
oldbobcat
Senior Member
 
oldbobcat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 4,394

Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Liked 448 Times in 337 Posts
Originally Posted by einstruzende
As you can see, the steerer has been cut too short on my wife's bike. I can be blamed for this. I suspect I am going to have to buy a new fork, but perhaps there is an extender that is safe to use in this setup? Even 20mm would go a long way I think.

Failing that, does anyone know of a source of matte black forks that might be a suitable replacement? Doesn't necessarily have to be Colnago ...
There are special considerations for cutting and clamping carbon fiber steerers.

First the steerer is designed to be compressed from the outside, so the fibers are compressed inward, not outward. The expansion nut does compress outward, but since its only function is to stop the compression cap when you set the headset bearing load, the force it exerts is nominal. In fact, I have seen these nuts so overtightened that they deform the steerer making it impossible to slip spacers past. Also, the steerer is tapered, so, especially on a smaller frame like this one, the wedge of the quill extender is unlikely to find tube to compress against. But if it does, it will compress unevenly and destroy the steerer. So scratch that.

Remembering that the stem needs to compress the tube from the outside, note that compression needs to be firm enough to keep the bearing loaded and the handlebar straight. That requires precise machining, even pressure, and sufficient stack height where the stem compresses the steerer. That means a minimum stack height and at least two clamp bolts. When selecting a stem for a carbon steer, check the manufacturer's specifications for carbon compatibility. The better alloy stems by Zipp, Ritchey, FSA, Pro, etc. are recommended for carbon. That single-bolt riser stem will likely destroy the steerer.

Finally, the steerer is more delicate to damage by compression at the end where it is cut. You don't want to compress the top of the steerer with your top stem bolt unless the compression nut is directly and firmly behind it. Some compression plugs are made that way, but even then I really don't trust them, especially with unidirectional carbon. If somebody out there wants to argue with me, fine, but it's always safer to measure your cut to allow for a 5-10 mm headset spacer between the cap and the top of the stem. This also gives the rider wiggle room in case the stem needs to be raised a bit when working off the winter insulation, or what my neighbor calls the covid 19.

So it looks like you will be replacing the fork. Your local shop can get aftermarket carbon forks from QBP. This one has a tapered steerer so you'll have to read specs carefully if you go looking to other sources. Personally, I would get a replacement from Colnago and chalk it to an expensive lesson learned. And when you cut, use a guide, wrap the area to be cut with electrical tape to prevent splitting, and measure at least twice.
oldbobcat is offline  
Likes For oldbobcat:
Old 03-31-21, 03:49 PM
  #6  
einstruzende
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 86

Bikes: Time ZXRS, Dura Ace, Zipp 808.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by oldbobcat
There are special considerations for cutting and clamping carbon fiber steerers.

First the steerer is designed to be compressed from the outside, so the fibers are compressed inward, not outward. The expansion nut does compress outward, but since its only function is to stop the compression cap when you set the headset bearing load, the force it exerts is nominal. In fact, I have seen these nuts so overtightened that they deform the steerer making it impossible to slip spacers past. Also, the steerer is tapered, so, especially on a smaller frame like this one, the wedge of the quill extender is unlikely to find tube to compress against. But if it does, it will compress unevenly and destroy the steerer. So scratch that.

Remembering that the stem needs to compress the tube from the outside, note that compression needs to be firm enough to keep the bearing loaded and the handlebar straight. That requires precise machining, even pressure, and sufficient stack height where the stem compresses the steerer. That means a minimum stack height and at least two clamp bolts. When selecting a stem for a carbon steer, check the manufacturer's specifications for carbon compatibility. The better alloy stems by Zipp, Ritchey, FSA, Pro, etc. are recommended for carbon. That single-bolt riser stem will likely destroy the steerer.

Finally, the steerer is more delicate to damage by compression at the end where it is cut. You don't want to compress the top of the steerer with your top stem bolt unless the compression nut is directly and firmly behind it. Some compression plugs are made that way, but even then I really don't trust them, especially with unidirectional carbon. If somebody out there wants to argue with me, fine, but it's always safer to measure your cut to allow for a 5-10 mm headset spacer between the cap and the top of the stem. This also gives the rider wiggle room in case the stem needs to be raised a bit when working off the winter insulation, or what my neighbor calls the covid 19.

So it looks like you will be replacing the fork. Your local shop can get aftermarket carbon forks from QBP. This one has a tapered steerer so you'll have to read specs carefully if you go looking to other sources. Personally, I would get a replacement from Colnago and chalk it to an expensive lesson learned. And when you cut, use a guide, wrap the area to be cut with electrical tape to prevent splitting, and measure at least twice.
Thanks for the info, lots to consider. I don't mind paying for replacement, but I can't find a Colnago replacement fork. Not even on their website. So even though I'll "spend the money" there is no place to actually spend it!
einstruzende is offline  
Old 03-31-21, 08:30 PM
  #7  
oldbobcat
Senior Member
 
oldbobcat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 4,394

Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Liked 448 Times in 337 Posts
I found this list of Colnago dealers. https://www.colnago.com/en/dealers-list/ They obviously get their stock through an importer who has a district rep. Since district reps generally don't respond well to cold calls from end users, I suggest contacting the closest dealer, stating your problem (you need a fork), and asking them to contact their rep for you. Or give you the information for you to do it. I'm sure you're not the first guy who ever did this.

QBP has one fork model in stock, Whisky Parts No. 7, 1.25-1.5" tapered carbon steerer, 45 mm offset, crown clearance for 28 mm tires and short reach brake caliper with center bolt, matt black finish, MAP $325. Most local bike shops have QBP accounts.

Last edited by oldbobcat; 03-31-21 at 09:02 PM.
oldbobcat is offline  
Likes For oldbobcat:
Old 04-01-21, 05:36 AM
  #8  
Koyote
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,877
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6963 Post(s)
Liked 10,961 Times in 4,687 Posts
Originally Posted by oldbobcat
I found this list of Colnago dealers. https://www.colnago.com/en/dealers-list/ They obviously get their stock through an importer who has a district rep. Since district reps generally don't respond well to cold calls from end users, I suggest contacting the closest dealer, stating your problem (you need a fork), and asking them to contact their rep for you. Or give you the information for you to do it. I'm sure you're not the first guy who ever did this.

QBP has one fork model in stock, Whisky Parts No. 7, 1.25-1.5" tapered carbon steerer, 45 mm offset, crown clearance for 28 mm tires and short reach brake caliper with center bolt, matt black finish, MAP $325. Most local bike shops have QBP accounts.
You should get an award for “most helpful bike forum member of the day.“
Koyote is offline  
Likes For Koyote:
Old 04-01-21, 08:31 AM
  #9  
oldbobcat
Senior Member
 
oldbobcat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 4,394

Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Liked 448 Times in 337 Posts
Originally Posted by Koyote
You should get an award for “most helpful bike forum member of the day.“
Thanks, man. It's just that I've grown so accustomed to flames that I try to double check stuff before I post it. And then, I figure, I might as well post the links to the stuff I found.
oldbobcat is offline  
Likes For oldbobcat:
Old 04-01-21, 09:21 AM
  #10  
veganbikes
Clark W. Griswold
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,516

Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26

Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4350 Post(s)
Liked 3,989 Times in 2,663 Posts
In the future for anyone measure twice, then measure one more time for good luck and then cut after you have measured a couple more times.

Also keep in mind that FSA Metropolis stem may not be rated for carbon steerers and is out of production. It will also probably sit way too high so you probably won't get good engagement from the compression plug.
veganbikes is offline  
Likes For veganbikes:
Old 04-01-21, 01:15 PM
  #11  
oldbobcat
Senior Member
 
oldbobcat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 4,394

Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Liked 448 Times in 337 Posts
Originally Posted by veganbikes
Also keep in mind that FSA Metropolis stem may not be rated for carbon steerers and is out of production. It will also probably sit way too high so you probably won't get good engagement from the compression plug.
Any part named "Metropolis" should never go on a Colnago anyway.
oldbobcat is offline  
Likes For oldbobcat:
Old 04-01-21, 05:48 PM
  #12  
einstruzende
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 86

Bikes: Time ZXRS, Dura Ace, Zipp 808.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by oldbobcat
I found this list of Colnago dealers. https://www.colnago.com/en/dealers-list/ They obviously get their stock through an importer who has a district rep. Since district reps generally don't respond well to cold calls from end users, I suggest contacting the closest dealer, stating your problem (you need a fork), and asking them to contact their rep for you. Or give you the information for you to do it. I'm sure you're not the first guy who ever did this.

QBP has one fork model in stock, Whisky Parts No. 7, 1.25-1.5" tapered carbon steerer, 45 mm offset, crown clearance for 28 mm tires and short reach brake caliper with center bolt, matt black finish, MAP $325. Most local bike shops have QBP accounts.
Thanks for the info, but what is this "QBP" that you speak of? I would happily pay $325 for a new fork!
einstruzende is offline  
Old 04-01-21, 06:09 PM
  #13  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,806

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1943 Post(s)
Liked 2,164 Times in 1,323 Posts
You might want to check out a Columbus carbon fork. That would seem like an appropriate selection for a Colnago.

John
70sSanO is offline  
Old 04-01-21, 06:33 PM
  #14  
Juan el Boricua
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: San Juan, PR
Posts: 160

Bikes: 1980's Royce Union "fixed wheel", 1995 Trek 370, 406 -wheeled " shopper/minivelo"for running errands, SS Raleigh M60

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 58 Times in 46 Posts
https://www.qbp.com/

QBP or, Quality Bicycle Parts, is a bicycle parts specialist/distributor that serves most of the USoA bicycle shops (I'm unaware if it serves internationally; hopefuly someone more knowledgeable will chime in soon). They're wholesalers, so I do not think that they'll serve you individually, so maybe that's why he referred you to your local bike shop and have them place the order. Hope this helps and that you and your wife can roll together soon again.
Juan el Boricua is offline  
Old 04-01-21, 07:36 PM
  #15  
oldbobcat
Senior Member
 
oldbobcat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 4,394

Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Liked 448 Times in 337 Posts
Originally Posted by einstruzende
Thanks for the info, but what is this "QBP" that you speak of? I would happily pay $325 for a new fork!
Quality Bike Parts, a very large general wholesaler of bike components and accessories. They have warehouses across the US, Canada, Mexico, and South America. You need to have a brick-and-mortar bike shop to get an account with these folks. They are very committed to the concept of neighborhood bike shops. (Also, their manufacturers make them.)

The other two I'm familiar with are United Bicycle Supply and J&B Importers. J&B is great for the stuff that keeps older, cheaper bikes alive.

Last edited by oldbobcat; 04-01-21 at 07:39 PM.
oldbobcat is offline  
Likes For oldbobcat:
Old 04-01-21, 09:03 PM
  #16  
veganbikes
Clark W. Griswold
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,516

Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26

Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4350 Post(s)
Liked 3,989 Times in 2,663 Posts
Originally Posted by Juan el Boricua
https://www.qbp.com/

QBP or, Quality Bicycle Parts, is a bicycle parts specialist/distributor that serves most of the USoA bicycle shops (I'm unaware if it serves internationally; hopefuly someone more knowledgeable will chime in soon). They're wholesalers, so I do not think that they'll serve you individually, so maybe that's why he referred you to your local bike shop and have them place the order. Hope this helps and that you and your wife can roll together soon again.
It is actually Quality Bicycle Products

Yes they do serve internationally and your local bike shop can likely order from them. You as a normal person will not be able to do that unless you some how have an account but it is a good reason to stop by the local shop and maybe bring them the bike and have them do the work just so no issues.
veganbikes is offline  
Likes For veganbikes:
Old 04-02-21, 07:09 PM
  #17  
PDKL45
Senior Member
 
PDKL45's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: South Korea
Posts: 783

Bikes: Merida Speeder

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 233 Post(s)
Liked 165 Times in 115 Posts
Maybe use a different stem, like an Ergotec High Charisma or High Barracuda?

https://www.ergotec.de/en/products/vorbauten/sub/ahead-vorbau.html)
PDKL45 is online now  
Old 04-02-21, 11:27 PM
  #18  
Camilo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,760
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1109 Post(s)
Liked 1,200 Times in 760 Posts
edit: sorry, I didn't see 70sSanO post above. Regardless...

Check out the Columbus carbon fiber forks. They are very nice quality, good looking, all carbon, light weight, flat black, fairly low key logo-ing. Plus, they're Italian so wouldn't be a travesty on a Colnago! If they have one that suits you, I don't think the aesthetics would suffer too much. 8-)

Carbon Forks – Columbus (columbustubi.com)

I have a Minimal which is a great fork and I'm very happy with it. There's a bunch of varieties for various types of head tube and brake set ups. I'll bet you can fix your faux pas for in the reasonable vicinity $300US if you shop around. I bought mine from Chain Reaction for quite a bit less than that a couple of years ago. Then sell the Colnago to a tiny frame owner?

Last edited by Camilo; 04-02-21 at 11:41 PM.
Camilo is offline  
Old 04-03-21, 12:01 PM
  #19  
icemilkcoffee 
Senior Member
 
icemilkcoffee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,394
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1561 Post(s)
Liked 1,734 Times in 974 Posts
Originally Posted by oldbobcat
When selecting a stem for a carbon steer, check the manufacturer's specifications for carbon compatibility. The better alloy stems by Zipp, Ritchey, FSA, Pro, etc. are recommended for carbon. That single-bolt riser stem will likely destroy the steerer.
I have never heard of carbon steerer needing special stems. What makes you think the single bolt FSA stem would ‘destroy the steerer tube’ ?
If anything it’s probably better than the typical stem which have a hollow where the neck joins the trunk. In this FSA stem it’s all solid uniform mating surface.
Now it’s probably a good idea to chamfer the bottom ID of the stem(any stem) so there is no sharp edge digging into the carbon. Especially the corners created by the cut.
I chamfer the edges of the handlebar clamps that I use on my carbon handlebars.
icemilkcoffee is offline  
Old 04-03-21, 08:21 PM
  #20  
oldbobcat
Senior Member
 
oldbobcat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 4,394

Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Liked 448 Times in 337 Posts
To prevent this kind of failure.


In this case the correct stem was installed incorrectly, too high in relation to the top of the steerer. Many manufacturers state in the user manual or warranty that using an improper stem or installing the stem incorrectly will void the frame warranty. Improper installation includes mounting the stem too high or even having too much steerer protruding from the top of the head tube. Headset spacers offer no reinforcement. Steerers are engineered for lightness and in some cases flexibility. They're not to be used like a seatpost. By the way, that's why seatposts and quill stems have minimum insertion lines.

Last edited by oldbobcat; 04-03-21 at 08:26 PM.
oldbobcat is offline  
Old 04-04-21, 06:15 PM
  #21  
DaveSSS 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 7,227

Bikes: Cinelli superstar disc, two Yoeleo R12

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1097 Post(s)
Liked 559 Times in 446 Posts
9

I assume that there is about 40mm of steerer inside the stem. It's not difficult to fix this, as long as about 15mm of the original steerer is inside the stem, after it's extended. In other words, the steerer can be extended by up to 25mm, with a permanent thread insert for the top cap bolt. Any more extension would require an internal support tube.

I could fix it in 1 day and send it back the next. $35 should cover materials and return shipping.. Contact me if interested. I extended a steerer by about 10mm many years ago and rode that bike for years with no problem. I'm a mechanical engineer.

Here's a picture of an extension done to show how it works. The yellow tape line is the bottom of the stem. Inside the tube is a star nut with a reduced diameter, so it slides into the steerer. The star nut and all of the tube above it are encased in solid JB Weld epoxy, with a 6.5mm hole for the 6mm top cap bolt to go through. Ideally, about half of the stem height is the original tube and the top half is an extension. A copper tube coupling serves as the mold for the extension. I also use this technique, with no extension, to eliminate the need for an expanding plug.


Last edited by DaveSSS; 04-05-21 at 04:10 PM.
DaveSSS is offline  
Old 04-04-21, 07:45 PM
  #22  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,806

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1943 Post(s)
Liked 2,164 Times in 1,323 Posts
Extend a carbon steering tube?

John
70sSanO is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.