Caring for an all-chrome C&V frame... what's involved?
04-28-19, 08:56 AM
#1
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Caring for an all-chrome C&V frame... what's involved?
Let's say one comes across an all-chrome vintage frame, with minimal pitting/rust. What's the best (or reasonable) way to preserve and upkeep the finish? How about if moderate rust is present?
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2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
04-28-19, 09:05 AM
#2
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"elbow grease"
Best? IDK, (that's an opinion) have you looked into stuff classic car & M/C owners use on their chrome
say, meguiars chrome cleaner ? https://www.meguiars.com/#/
[ don't own a car ]
...
say, meguiars chrome cleaner ? https://www.meguiars.com/#/
[ don't own a car ]
...
04-28-19, 09:07 AM
#3
Senior Member
I work on C&V cars and I like this Quick-Glo. It does well with removing rust and then seals it with a wax to keep it from returning.....and the shine is very nice. I have no connection to the company. Just passing on a suggestion.
04-28-19, 10:36 AM
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In years gone bye, manufacturers used to clear coat the chrome, as seen on this mid seventies Sekine SHsomethingorother...
Short of that, I use automotive wax frequently. This is not a final protection and must be repeated over and over over the years.
Short of that, I use automotive wax frequently. This is not a final protection and must be repeated over and over over the years.
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04-28-19, 11:10 AM
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@horatio
I have a chrome frame that's 55 years old and no rust, however the original decals are yellowed and very fragile. No way I'd use anything heavy handed to "polish" it. But it's a rider, not a museum piece. I just want to preserve it for the next guy. It just gets a wipe down with Boeshield T9 when it needs it. Leaves a waxy coating but not a mirror.
If you have rust, that's where all the usual techniques come into play. Even bare steel can be polished to a high shine then waxed.
If you have rust, that's where all the usual techniques come into play. Even bare steel can be polished to a high shine then waxed.
04-28-19, 11:19 AM
#7
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Straight car wax (not cleaner wax or a combined wax/polish) is completely non-abrasive and will leave a dry, protective coat on the frame. This would need to be applied every 3-6 months. Remove the rust first using navel jelly, oxalic acid, etc.
04-28-19, 11:21 AM
#8
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In my climate with its salt air, the most important thing for chrome is a good wax or other protective coating.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
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Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
04-28-19, 04:41 PM
#9
Senior Member
I had a chrome frame for 30 years. Left it out in a damp garage for several years too. All I ever did was spray WD-40 on it and wiped it down. Some spray wax too.
Last edited by big chainring; 04-28-19 at 04:48 PM.
04-28-19, 05:05 PM
#10
Hump, what hump?
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Great tips, guys. Don’t own one yet, but I’m looking.
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2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
04-28-19, 09:39 PM
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Barkeepers friend. The active ingredient is oxyalic acid. For the most part the same as using an OA bath which I've done with great results. Home depot, lowes, ect carry a powder form of wood bleach for decks. Again oxyalic acid diluted with water in a container large enough to hold whatever your taking the rust off of. I let the stuff I did sit for about 8-12 hours. There is quite a lot of info at the bmxmuseum regarding rust removal. Unless the rust is deep, and or structural it works extremely well.
04-28-19, 10:48 PM
#12
Senior Member
I work on C&V cars and I like this Quick-Glo. It does well with removing rust and then seals it with a wax to keep it from returning.....and the shine is very nice. I have no connection to the company. Just passing on a suggestion.
https://youtu.be/v7TnNEBy3tI
https://youtu.be/v7TnNEBy3tI
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04-29-19, 07:53 AM
#13
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For tough spots, use it with some fine bronze wool. It really takes off the rust and won't scratch. Much more manageable than aluminum foil.
I have had good results with Blue Magic also...
I have had good results with Blue Magic also...
