New Budget Hardtail vs used High End Hardtail?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
New Budget Hardtail vs used High End Hardtail?
OK...I'm SURE this has been addressed, but I am looking at all my options. I'm 50 and haven't ridden a MTB in 20 years. My last bike was a '96 Rockhopper Comp FS. Loved it. Plan on doing some general riding, some trails, some single tracks. Nothing too crazy. My first thought was to go down to Specialized and buy the current Rockhopper Expert or Comp and be done with it. Then I thought, what about if I bought a used bike thats a few years old but a higher level bike? Then to confuse things...what about a used low end bike for a few hundred, and then spend a few hundred on mods? So the 3 options...
1. $800 for a new mid level bike.
2. $600-900 on a used high end bike.
3. $300 on a used mid level bike and then spend $400 on mods and upgrades.
Option 1...Looking at Rockhopper...What else should I be looking at? 1X vs 2X drivetrain? Other brands and models? Giant? Trek? Cannondale?
Option 2...Used Crave? Used Giant XTC Carbon? Used Rockhopper Expert or other brand equivalents?
Option 3...Used Rockhopper or other brand equivalents (2014-2015ish?) and then upgrade drivetrain, brakes, maybe wheels and fork.
Would an old guy like me really benefit or notice some things like the 1x vs 2x drivetrain? I have read hydraulic brakes vs mechanical brakes is a must. In the past it was common knowledge to stay away from the low end components, weight and functionality were not great. Still the same? Tubeless?
1. $800 for a new mid level bike.
2. $600-900 on a used high end bike.
3. $300 on a used mid level bike and then spend $400 on mods and upgrades.
Option 1...Looking at Rockhopper...What else should I be looking at? 1X vs 2X drivetrain? Other brands and models? Giant? Trek? Cannondale?
Option 2...Used Crave? Used Giant XTC Carbon? Used Rockhopper Expert or other brand equivalents?
Option 3...Used Rockhopper or other brand equivalents (2014-2015ish?) and then upgrade drivetrain, brakes, maybe wheels and fork.
Would an old guy like me really benefit or notice some things like the 1x vs 2x drivetrain? I have read hydraulic brakes vs mechanical brakes is a must. In the past it was common knowledge to stay away from the low end components, weight and functionality were not great. Still the same? Tubeless?
#2
Senior Member
Look for a bike with the following:
1. dropper post
2. tubeless compatible rims (get nice tubeless tires)
3. hydro brakes (if you go used avoid Avids)
4. rear derailleur with a clutch (1x or 2x not as important)
I wouldn't want to spend money on a mountain bike that didn't have these components. Others may disagree. I would also look for a slightly used better bike than buy a cheap bike and add upgrades. That'll cost more down the road.
1. dropper post
2. tubeless compatible rims (get nice tubeless tires)
3. hydro brakes (if you go used avoid Avids)
4. rear derailleur with a clutch (1x or 2x not as important)
I wouldn't want to spend money on a mountain bike that didn't have these components. Others may disagree. I would also look for a slightly used better bike than buy a cheap bike and add upgrades. That'll cost more down the road.
#4
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I"m still riding my '96 GT (with upgrades) hardtail on the trails, and it sounds to me like you're riding the same type of trails (not too technical) as I. If it was me, I'd look for a good condition mtn.bike with a good frame and wheels, minimum of 2x8, 1x9, or more (and if a late model would probably be more than an 8 spd.cassette anyway). I'm still using v-brakes with no problem, tho sure wouldn't mind having disks. If you're OK with working on your own bike, replacing parts, making adjustments-you can end up with a very nice bike without spending a lot. And you heard right about staying away from lower end components-but usually it's derailleurs and shifters, which are not super expensive and are easily replaced.
#5
Senior Member
5. Tapered headtube
If you are looking at older used or new/newer cheaper bikes a lot will have straight steerer tubes which will greatly hinder your ability to upgrade to a new better fork.
If you are looking at older used or new/newer cheaper bikes a lot will have straight steerer tubes which will greatly hinder your ability to upgrade to a new better fork.
#6
I ride all the bikes
I would recommend finding something using modern standards. No 26", 142 or 148 rear axle. Tapered head tube, etc. If you don't go with modern standards it may be more expense to repair or update than it is worth. So an older low cost bike might not be a deal.
Buying a cheap used bike, beating on it for a few, then dumping it isn't a bad idea. It gives you some time to decide what kind of mountain biking you actually want to do.
MTB is my primary sport.
Buying a cheap used bike, beating on it for a few, then dumping it isn't a bad idea. It gives you some time to decide what kind of mountain biking you actually want to do.
MTB is my primary sport.
#7
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If buying used, don't go too far back in time because recent thinking around geometry has been good for the sport by making bikes more fun to ride and riders less likely to crash.
Would an old guy like me really benefit or notice some things like the 1x vs 2x drivetrain? I have read hydraulic brakes vs mechanical brakes is a must. In the past it was common knowledge to stay away from the low end components, weight and functionality were not great. Still the same? Tubeless?
#8
I ride all the bikes
Tubeless is pushed harder than it deserves? That's like saying "these shifter things on your brake levers are over rated, downtube is all you need".
Tubes on MTB need to die, now.
Tubes on MTB need to die, now.
#9
Senior Member
Both my bikes are tubeless ready, yet I have had only three flats in four years with tubes. I see no reason to go through the hassle of changing. Besides, even if you are running tubeless, you need to carry a spare tube if you have tire problems on the trail.
to the OP, 6. full air fork.
#10
I ride all the bikes
Unless your riding style causes lots of pinch flats, or you ride in a area with lots of thorns causing flats, I don't see why the recreational rider would care.
Both my bikes are tubeless ready, yet I have had only three flats in four years with tubes. I see no reason to go through the hassle of changing. Besides, even if you are running tubeless, you need to carry a spare tube if you have tire problems on the trail.
to the OP, 6. full air fork.
Both my bikes are tubeless ready, yet I have had only three flats in four years with tubes. I see no reason to go through the hassle of changing. Besides, even if you are running tubeless, you need to carry a spare tube if you have tire problems on the trail.
to the OP, 6. full air fork.
Maybe it's a roadie thing to suggest tubes?
#11
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your prices are a bit off
New entry bikes are about 800, mid range models are at least double
used highend hardtail bikes, good examples are 2-3 times what you are estimating
you asked about Giants, some new prices:
entry level: Talon $750
mid level: Fathom $1500
high level: XTC $4000
New entry bikes are about 800, mid range models are at least double
used highend hardtail bikes, good examples are 2-3 times what you are estimating
you asked about Giants, some new prices:
entry level: Talon $750
mid level: Fathom $1500
high level: XTC $4000
#12
Senior Member
Just spent four days at Snowshow resort riding down hill. While I am slow and don't do hardly any jumping, ran as low as 20psi on smooth trails, and ran 25psi on M and O tech trails, not one issue with my tubes. Did see one tubeless rider burp a tire and have to walk out of a technical trail.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
OP here...so just picked up a brand new 2020 Rockhopper Comp 1x. Its got hydraulic brakes, a 1x9 drivetrain and a basic shock. I got it at a no tax sale saving me a few bucks. It was the only 1x drivetrain bike i saw under $1000. Yes its a microshift system but everyone seems to think its a pretty good system and it was by far smoother than the other low end 2x and 3x drivetrains i test rode. Now to get on some trails!! I will look into a few things down the road. Tubeless (not sure if these are tubeless compatible wheels? I think they are), upgraded shock, maybe going to a 1x12 (microshift makes an inexpensive system that maybe i can swap out some parts and easily get an even wiser gear range if needed.)
Here is a pic....
Here is a pic....
Last edited by jrhoneOC; 09-03-19 at 04:30 PM.