Cable/casing cutter?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Posts: 50
Bikes: ‘84 Alan sprint, Rocky Mountain Altitude 799, Trek fuel ex 9.9, Gardin/Battaglin’84, Nishiki international ‘83, ‘86 panasonic dx5000, 93 mongoose amplifier
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Liked 30 Times
in
13 Posts
Cable/casing cutter? Update
This may not be the correct forum, but I figure the c&v crew does more wrenching than anyone else.
i purchased a $15 set of cutters on amazon, supposedly bicycle specific, but all this pos does is mangle the casing and chew the cables.
My side cutters do a not too bad of a job on cables but not so much on casing.
Anyone have a recommendation for a reasonably priced tool?
Thanks,
B
i purchased a $15 set of cutters on amazon, supposedly bicycle specific, but all this pos does is mangle the casing and chew the cables.
My side cutters do a not too bad of a job on cables but not so much on casing.
Anyone have a recommendation for a reasonably priced tool?
Thanks,
B
Last edited by Bajabri; 02-10-20 at 06:36 PM. Reason: New info
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,321
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 767 Post(s)
Liked 1,898 Times
in
889 Posts
I like to use a Dremel or similar rotary tool with a cut-off wheel. Makes a nice straight cut.
Alternatively, I use these: https://www.channellock.com/product/436/
I always grind the cut ends flat after using the Channel lock cutters.
Alternatively, I use these: https://www.channellock.com/product/436/
I always grind the cut ends flat after using the Channel lock cutters.
Likes For BFisher:
#3
Stop reading my posts!
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 12,584
Mentioned: 90 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1444 Post(s)
Liked 1,062 Times
in
787 Posts
I used a friends Taiwan-made cutter that did a decent job on both casing and cables, his was branded "Spin Doctor" but says he has seen it or copy-cats under other Brands (might be obsolete in today's marketplace). looks like most of the "cable-only" cutters but with beefier jaws. Personally I always used "2 tools" one just for the cables (either a Japanese copy of the pricey Swiss "Felco C-7" or the Parks CN2 cable cutter) and since neither of those are any good on casing I always cut that with a smallish bolt-cutter. Not a clean cut but effective and I always dress the ends with a bench grinder (so now we are up to 3 tools!) and use a sharpened spoke to open up the inner liner (4th tool!)
EDIT: now that I researched some the tool I borrowed from my friend looks like a copy of the Park CN-10 (which I'm sure costs more but, might get what you pay for in this case, especially if you want a single does-it-all tool)
EDIT: now that I researched some the tool I borrowed from my friend looks like a copy of the Park CN-10 (which I'm sure costs more but, might get what you pay for in this case, especially if you want a single does-it-all tool)
Last edited by unworthy1; 02-08-20 at 01:31 PM.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Bloomington/Normal IL
Posts: 1,062
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 152 Post(s)
Liked 237 Times
in
139 Posts
Use the Park CN-10 cable cutter @ the co-op. and then just to be sure do a touch up on the grinding wheel we have available to us.
Works like a charm.
Works like a charm.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,829 Times
in
1,995 Posts
I cut with a Park cable cutter then dress on a fine grinding wheel. Finish up with a small awl to insure no hang-ups.
Fresh cables get solidered ends. The cut.
On the appropriate bikes, a small cable cuff, end of cable slightly exposed, painted the same color as lug detailing.
Why? Because Falerio finished cables off that way.
Fresh cables get solidered ends. The cut.
On the appropriate bikes, a small cable cuff, end of cable slightly exposed, painted the same color as lug detailing.
Why? Because Falerio finished cables off that way.
#6
Shifting is fun!
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Holland, NL
Posts: 11,006
Bikes: Yes, please.
Mentioned: 280 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2198 Post(s)
Liked 4,601 Times
in
1,764 Posts
I use Gedore side cutters for both cables and housing. Not particularly cheap (~$30), but they give better results than any bicycle-specific tools I've tried. A good pair of cutters is a joy to work with and worth the investment, IMO.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 996
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 457 Post(s)
Liked 462 Times
in
270 Posts
I have somePedro's cable cutters, rebranded Park cutters I think, they work well, but I do clean up housing ends on my bench grinder and use a dental tool to make sure the inner lining is all the way open.
https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...BoCF6kQAvD_BwE
https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...BoCF6kQAvD_BwE
Likes For jackbombay:
#8
PM me your cotters
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: ATL
Posts: 3,241
Mentioned: 80 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1137 Post(s)
Liked 590 Times
in
422 Posts
I've always used a Dremel cutoff and bench grinder to clean the edge of the casing and one of a couple smaller nails to clean the opening..
However, I recently bought a pair of Hozan C-217 after reading so many people here swear they'll cut evenly. I found that on at least 50% of cuts I don't need to clean up after. Amazon has them for ~$32 right now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OFW5Q6
Two other things to say: One, I've only used the Hozans on a couple dozen bikes at this point, so my long-term feedback is limited. Two, I hear the vintage VAR cutters also will cut as cleanly as the Hozans. I just haven't managed to snag a pair at a reasonable price yet to confirm.
However, I recently bought a pair of Hozan C-217 after reading so many people here swear they'll cut evenly. I found that on at least 50% of cuts I don't need to clean up after. Amazon has them for ~$32 right now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OFW5Q6
Two other things to say: One, I've only used the Hozans on a couple dozen bikes at this point, so my long-term feedback is limited. Two, I hear the vintage VAR cutters also will cut as cleanly as the Hozans. I just haven't managed to snag a pair at a reasonable price yet to confirm.
__________________
███████████████
███████████████
#9
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Chattanooga, Tn
Posts: 300
Bikes: 1977 Raleigh Record, 1987 Schwinn Prelude, 1971 Raleigh Record, 1988 Schwinn Traveler, 1967 (?) Carlton Super Course, 1959 Huffy Sportsman 3 speed, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, yet another 70-something Raleigh Record
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 50 Post(s)
Liked 18 Times
in
11 Posts
I have a Park cable cutter -- I leave it in the original box with the price tag on it, so I won't be tempted to cut anything other than cables and housing with it. Still usually dress the end of the housing with the bench grinder. Also have used a dremel with cutoff wheel before I got the pricey tool.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Medford MA
Posts: 2,089
Bikes: Ron Cooper touring, 1959 Jack Taylor 650b ladyback touring tandem, Vitus 979, Joe Bell painted Claud Butler Dalesman, Colin Laing curved tube tandem, heavily-Dilberted 1982 Trek 6xx, René Herse tandem
Mentioned: 80 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 964 Post(s)
Liked 1,451 Times
in
723 Posts
Side cutters and a grinder or file if needed. If you use the side cutters skillfully, you may not even need the grinder or file. The Park tool is nice, but I just can't justify it. I'd rather buy expensive bikes!!
__________________
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
Likes For scarlson:
#11
Abuse Magnet
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,870
Bikes: '91 Mtn Tek Vertical, '74 Raleigh Sports, '72 Raleigh Twenty, '84 Univega Gran Turismo, '09 Surly Karate Monkey, '92 Burley Rock-n-Roll, '86 Miyata 310, '76 Raleigh Shopper
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 151 Post(s)
Liked 174 Times
in
88 Posts
Park cutter, dress the end of the cut housing with a points file.
#12
Mother Nature's Son
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Sussex County, Delaware
Posts: 3,118
Bikes: 2014 Orbea Avant MD30, 2004 Airborne Zeppelin TI, 2003 Lemond Poprad, 2001 Lemond Tourmalet, 2014? Soma Smoothie
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 853 Post(s)
Liked 1,437 Times
in
819 Posts
I use Jagwire cutters for gear and brake cables and housing. The housing I always cut with a piece of old cable in the canal. That keeps it from getting mashed. Smooth the ends with a file and I use a pick from a walnut cracker set to make sure the canal is open and round.
#14
Senior Member
I use a Dremel with a diamond cut-off wheel for the housing. No need to dress the cut on a grinder afterwards!
Whatever method you use to cut the housings, make sure you have a clean 90° cut - either in the initial cut or whether you end up dressing it on a grinder - otherwise your brakes will be 'mushy' as the slop gets taken up.
I always leave the inner cable a bit long - so that when everything is adjusted, I can either solder the inner at the appropriate length and then cut it through the soldered part - or in the case of slick stainless inner wires, use a crimp-end.
Whatever method you use to cut the housings, make sure you have a clean 90° cut - either in the initial cut or whether you end up dressing it on a grinder - otherwise your brakes will be 'mushy' as the slop gets taken up.
I always leave the inner cable a bit long - so that when everything is adjusted, I can either solder the inner at the appropriate length and then cut it through the soldered part - or in the case of slick stainless inner wires, use a crimp-end.
#15
Senior Member
Knipex ****s were my favorite tool for cutting cables, old school coiled housing, and spokes BITD. I've had a pair since the 80s, and I still use them for cables and spoke removal. For SIS shift cables and modern laminated brake housing, I prefer a dremel cutoff wheel. I often used them even working in a shop. It was often a wash WRT time versus 'SIS' cutters and cleanup on a grinding wheel.
Edit: apparently the common term for diagonal cutters is banned... I'd like to add that those Hozan cutters look very tempting. Anyone using them on shift housing? Can they cut it cleanly? I don't have much experience with newer bicycle specific housing cutters. I was always somewhat annoyed by the special Shimano cutters we were obligated to use when digital shifting came out.
Edit: apparently the common term for diagonal cutters is banned... I'd like to add that those Hozan cutters look very tempting. Anyone using them on shift housing? Can they cut it cleanly? I don't have much experience with newer bicycle specific housing cutters. I was always somewhat annoyed by the special Shimano cutters we were obligated to use when digital shifting came out.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 02-08-20 at 04:11 PM.
#16
Extraordinary Magnitude
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 13,647
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2608 Post(s)
Liked 1,703 Times
in
937 Posts
I have a Park cutter and cut with a piece of cable in the end. File or grinder to finish.
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Likes For The Golden Boy:
#17
Senior Member
Some options
If you don''t mind grinding, or have strong hands, The Klein Linesman's ( D2000-9NE) pliers are very good. Lesser brands will not do the job. I've tried other well reputed brands (that I already owned) to poor effect. Avoid diagonal cutters (even the Klein D2000-28) or cutter/crimpers (like the Klein J1005). But I wouldn't go buy these . I use them because I have them.
I always use a push pin or old spoke to open up the end if it gets crushed. Always use the cable housing ferrules (preferably metal ones). I suspect some of the more robust housing (I use Jagwire) may require better cutters or a Dremel tool/file, etc. And obviously robust brake cable will need good pliers/cutters
I have used the Park, and it is the right tool for the job.
I always use a push pin or old spoke to open up the end if it gets crushed. Always use the cable housing ferrules (preferably metal ones). I suspect some of the more robust housing (I use Jagwire) may require better cutters or a Dremel tool/file, etc. And obviously robust brake cable will need good pliers/cutters
I have used the Park, and it is the right tool for the job.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,841
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 796 Post(s)
Liked 522 Times
in
367 Posts
I use the Park cable cutter and on housing I tend to follow up with a file and an Awl to smooth and ream out housing opening before attaching the ferrule.
#19
Semper Fi
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 12,942
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1172 Post(s)
Liked 358 Times
in
241 Posts
Another Pedro's cutting dikes and Dremel with a diamond cut off to clean it up.
I really wish the site's censor coding would learn what is meant as a derogatory term and what is an everyday normal nomenclature for something.
Bill
I really wish the site's censor coding would learn what is meant as a derogatory term and what is an everyday normal nomenclature for something.
Bill
__________________
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
#20
Bike Butcher of Portland
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 11,639
Bikes: It's complicated.
Mentioned: 1299 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4682 Post(s)
Liked 5,800 Times
in
2,284 Posts
Felco C7
When only the best is acceptable.
When only the best is acceptable.
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
#21
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,623
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3888 Post(s)
Liked 6,485 Times
in
3,209 Posts
Surprised the Park CN-10 is $37 on ebay. Seems about $10 higher than when I bought my set. Maybe they're worth it. I love mine.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,990
Bikes: ‘87 Marinoni SLX Sports Tourer, ‘79 Miyata 912 by Gugificazione
Mentioned: 166 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 502 Post(s)
Liked 466 Times
in
256 Posts
I use a Dremel with cut-off wheel on my own brake cable housings at home. Always square and clean, just need to go slow to not melt the liner closed! A Trek-branded cable cutter works fine on cables and shift housings.
At Bike Works where there’s no Dremel available, I’ve been impressed with the clean cuts from Jagwire cable cutters there on brake housing. I’ve never like the dang curled-in end that always results from using the Park cutter on brake housing, so I’d used the largest, sharpest pair of diagonal cutters for better results, until I found the Jagwire.
I always flex brake housing in a tight bend over a finger and work the cutter blades between adjacent spirals for the best cut with any of them.
At Bike Works where there’s no Dremel available, I’ve been impressed with the clean cuts from Jagwire cable cutters there on brake housing. I’ve never like the dang curled-in end that always results from using the Park cutter on brake housing, so I’d used the largest, sharpest pair of diagonal cutters for better results, until I found the Jagwire.
I always flex brake housing in a tight bend over a finger and work the cutter blades between adjacent spirals for the best cut with any of them.
#23
PBP Ancien (2007)
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: South Wales, UK
Posts: 358
Bikes: Cannondale CAADX (for commuting), Cannondale CAAD12, Cannondale CAAD12 Team CNCPT, Giant Contend 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 77 Post(s)
Liked 156 Times
in
106 Posts
I used a cheapish Cyclo cable cutter for many years without problems until my daughter nabbed it for making jewelry. I now use a Park Tool but have no idea of the model number.
#24
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,194
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1565 Post(s)
Liked 1,296 Times
in
866 Posts
How are you guys who use grinding methods to cut and/or square the ends of the housing getting the grit storm out of your cable housings?
Especially with the better housings being pre-lubricated, you wouldn't want to just blast any aerosol cleaner through and wash out the special silicone/teflon lubrication.
The millions of grit dust particles from cutting I imagine would easily simulate perhaps thousands of miles of typical use/ageing by contamination.
To the OP, get any purpose-specific bike cable cutters, at least get ones with a return privilege if they don't work well.
I bought Performance cutters for under $20 that have made thousands of cuts and remain sharp 20 years later.
Getting brake cable housing ends cut square is easiest using the two-cut method, where the second cut is made with the housing rotated to catch any protruding edge on the cutting edge of one of the cutter's blades. Once mastered, this certainly works well enough that any additional squaring with a file (or god-forbid a grinding wheel) would not make a noticeable difference in the braking response.
All housings should have their openings shaped with a sharp awl/pick after cutting, if only to allow faster installation of the cable.
Derailer housing ends are best left sharp (as when a proper cutter is used). This allows the strand ends to embed in the plastic inside surface of any good ferrule (even the metal ones have plastic washers inside for this exact purpose). The embedding process (done during the pre-stress step of the installation) allows all of the housing's steel strands to equally support the compressive load even after cutting and bending may have left the strand's ends uneven at the end of the housing.
Especially with the better housings being pre-lubricated, you wouldn't want to just blast any aerosol cleaner through and wash out the special silicone/teflon lubrication.
The millions of grit dust particles from cutting I imagine would easily simulate perhaps thousands of miles of typical use/ageing by contamination.
To the OP, get any purpose-specific bike cable cutters, at least get ones with a return privilege if they don't work well.
I bought Performance cutters for under $20 that have made thousands of cuts and remain sharp 20 years later.
Getting brake cable housing ends cut square is easiest using the two-cut method, where the second cut is made with the housing rotated to catch any protruding edge on the cutting edge of one of the cutter's blades. Once mastered, this certainly works well enough that any additional squaring with a file (or god-forbid a grinding wheel) would not make a noticeable difference in the braking response.
All housings should have their openings shaped with a sharp awl/pick after cutting, if only to allow faster installation of the cable.
Derailer housing ends are best left sharp (as when a proper cutter is used). This allows the strand ends to embed in the plastic inside surface of any good ferrule (even the metal ones have plastic washers inside for this exact purpose). The embedding process (done during the pre-stress step of the installation) allows all of the housing's steel strands to equally support the compressive load even after cutting and bending may have left the strand's ends uneven at the end of the housing.
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Port Angeles, WA
Posts: 7,922
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
Mentioned: 194 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1627 Post(s)
Liked 630 Times
in
356 Posts
After cutting the cable housing, I ream the end a little with a small nail, or awl (if I can find it) or even a toothpick. Seems like all the cables I cut these days are nylon-lined, so they need to be poked.
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●