1978 Holdsworth Frame Upgrades
#26
Senior Member
jlaw you can see some pics now
I agree with others - keep the fork. I like modern components but I don't think that the expense of a carbon fork will be worth it -might save a few grams (and look pretty cool on an old frame with original paint) but actually provide a harsher ride than that nice steel fork (531 steel?) you have now with the 'flick' or curve at at the bottom.
Here's my suggestion - which I've recommended many times before to other posters:
650b wheels - this will allow for larger tires - maybe 35 to 38mm. Measure a distance of 320mm from the front and rear axle to the choke points (fork crown, chain stays, seat stays). The distance between the forks, chain stays, and seat stays will tell you how wide a tire is possible with 650b. Leave yourself at least 4mm clearance on each side of the tire.
If you go 650b you will need longer-reach brakes. The Tektro 559s are a popular and affordable choice for this. Measure the reach that you actually need before buying (brake bolt hole to the rim) - you may be able to use a 'medium-reach' brake or there is a small possibility that you would need something longer than the 73mm max. that the 559s provide. This question should be answered BEFORE you decide to use 650b wheels. You'll need to make sure that your brake levers work with the new brakes (long pull vs. short pull).
If you can fit a 130mm hub between the rear dropouts I'd go with a 2x10 drivetrain with a super compact crank. An MTB crank with something like 40/28 and a 10 speed cassette with 11/32 or 11/34 is nice if you have hills. Flatter terrain or stronger rider might go with a 46/30 crank (the new Shimano GRX 10 speed gravel components are reasonably priced). You'll need a new RD, but the original FD might work if you are friction shifting the FD. I like Shimano 10 speed indexed downtube shifters - but they only work with a road RD. If you are going to use brifters then you should consult your vendor (or BF) to make sure all your new parts are compatible.
For the stem you can use a threadless adapter in order to be able to use 31.8 bars and a threadless stem with a removable faceplate. Or, you could re-use the existing 1" threaded stem and bars - or a Nitto Technomic (tall) stem with original bars or new bars that are 26.0(?)mm like the original. Another option - Velo Orange makes a cool 1" threaded stem with a removable face plate - a bit pricey but nice quality and less ugly than a threadless adapter. https://velo-orange.com/collections/...ceplate-31-8mm
You can re-use the seat post and whatever seat you want.
Get some fenders that are about 10 to 15mm wider than your new tires. Your frame and fork are ready to accept these. Fender installation requires some fiddling and patience. Good fenders come with a bag of hardware that should cover all of the possible challenges.
How much stuff do you want to carry on this bike? This is not a touring rig or an 'adventure' bike - light/medium loads only. Perhaps a front rack with a bag of some sort. Here's one possibility that should be fairly easy to fit - but this means installing fender stays and the bottom connection for this rack into the lone eyelet near the dropouts on your fork. https://velo-orange.com/collections/racks/products/vo-
constructeur-front-rack
Basically, I'm recommending a randonneur-style bike. I simply like the looks and function of that style. However, my ideas are adding some weight to your bike - but to me that doesn't matter. If done this way the completed bike would probably weight in the neighborhood of 28 to 30#.
So, these are my ideas - there are plenty of other possibilities.
#27
Senior Member
Also Scotland makes sense: few in the US would be thinking to mod a Holdsworth as they are relatively rare (and beautiful) - and why not just mod a Schwinn?
As others I'd keep the fork as unless you spend serious money on a CF fork, its not actually that much of a weight gain. The weight vs price is huge on CF forks: cheap ones are heavy, expensive ones are light- if you have the cash, go for it and get something ridiculous. but if you have not, you wont gain much if anything over the original.
bars and cranks- yes: why not. seatpost and saddle, sure. then its all about the wheels. I have not found a set of wheels that are light, strong, and smooth for less than $300 USD. so that is a big consideration but makes more difference for the ride than anything else.
#29
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jetboy thanks for your thoughts Yeah, at the end of the day the CF fork is more of a cosmetic choice for me as I can't afford to spend hundreds on a very light product. What about lightweight wheels for no more than 300 bucks? Any recommendations? Cheers! D
#30
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I've never understood the reason for this. Once you take an older steel bike and change the fork for carbon fiber and put some sort of deep dish modern wheels on it the ride characteriistics are completely lost so why would you do it?
I've replaced all freewheels with a cassette hub to reduce axle issues but still use box section rims to get the ride quality. I can understand upgrading to index downtube shifters. If you want an all modern bike just go buy one.
I've replaced all freewheels with a cassette hub to reduce axle issues but still use box section rims to get the ride quality. I can understand upgrading to index downtube shifters. If you want an all modern bike just go buy one.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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#31
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Thanks Wildwood ! Which fork did you use?
Can you tell how I feel about 1" threadless?
#32
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Yes - very nice!
I agree with others - keep the fork. I like modern components but I don't think that the expense of a carbon fork will be worth it -might save a few grams (and look pretty cool on an old frame with original paint) but actually provide a harsher ride than that nice steel fork (531 steel?) you have now with the 'flick' or curve at at the bottom.
Here's my suggestion - which I've recommended many times before to other posters:
650b wheels - this will allow for larger tires - maybe 35 to 38mm. Measure a distance of 320mm from the front and rear axle to the choke points (fork crown, chain stays, seat stays). The distance between the forks, chain stays, and seat stays will tell you how wide a tire is possible with 650b. Leave yourself at least 4mm clearance on each side of the tire.
If you go 650b you will need longer-reach brakes. The Tektro 559s are a popular and affordable choice for this. Measure the reach that you actually need before buying (brake bolt hole to the rim) - you may be able to use a 'medium-reach' brake or there is a small possibility that you would need something longer than the 73mm max. that the 559s provide. This question should be answered BEFORE you decide to use 650b wheels. You'll need to make sure that your brake levers work with the new brakes (long pull vs. short pull).
If you can fit a 130mm hub between the rear dropouts I'd go with a 2x10 drivetrain with a super compact crank. An MTB crank with something like 40/28 and a 10 speed cassette with 11/32 or 11/34 is nice if you have hills. Flatter terrain or stronger rider might go with a 46/30 crank (the new Shimano GRX 10 speed gravel components are reasonably priced). You'll need a new RD, but the original FD might work if you are friction shifting the FD. I like Shimano 10 speed indexed downtube shifters - but they only work with a road RD. If you are going to use brifters then you should consult your vendor (or BF) to make sure all your new parts are compatible.
For the stem you can use a threadless adapter in order to be able to use 31.8 bars and a threadless stem with a removable faceplate. Or, you could re-use the existing 1" threaded stem and bars - or a Nitto Technomic (tall) stem with original bars or new bars that are 26.0(?)mm like the original. Another option - Velo Orange makes a cool 1" threaded stem with a removable face plate - a bit pricey but nice quality and less ugly than a threadless adapter. https://velo-orange.com/collections/...ceplate-31-8mm
You can re-use the seat post and whatever seat you want.
Get some fenders that are about 10 to 15mm wider than your new tires. Your frame and fork are ready to accept these. Fender installation requires some fiddling and patience. Good fenders come with a bag of hardware that should cover all of the possible challenges.
How much stuff do you want to carry on this bike? This is not a touring rig or an 'adventure' bike - light/medium loads only. Perhaps a front rack with a bag of some sort. Here's one possibility that should be fairly easy to fit - but this means installing fender stays and the bottom connection for this rack into the lone eyelet near the dropouts on your fork. https://velo-orange.com/collections/racks/products/vo-
constructeur-front-rack
Basically, I'm recommending a randonneur-style bike. I simply like the looks and function of that style. However, my ideas are adding some weight to your bike - but to me that doesn't matter. If done this way the completed bike would probably weight in the neighborhood of 28 to 30#.
So, these are my ideas - there are plenty of other possibilities.
I agree with others - keep the fork. I like modern components but I don't think that the expense of a carbon fork will be worth it -might save a few grams (and look pretty cool on an old frame with original paint) but actually provide a harsher ride than that nice steel fork (531 steel?) you have now with the 'flick' or curve at at the bottom.
Here's my suggestion - which I've recommended many times before to other posters:
650b wheels - this will allow for larger tires - maybe 35 to 38mm. Measure a distance of 320mm from the front and rear axle to the choke points (fork crown, chain stays, seat stays). The distance between the forks, chain stays, and seat stays will tell you how wide a tire is possible with 650b. Leave yourself at least 4mm clearance on each side of the tire.
If you go 650b you will need longer-reach brakes. The Tektro 559s are a popular and affordable choice for this. Measure the reach that you actually need before buying (brake bolt hole to the rim) - you may be able to use a 'medium-reach' brake or there is a small possibility that you would need something longer than the 73mm max. that the 559s provide. This question should be answered BEFORE you decide to use 650b wheels. You'll need to make sure that your brake levers work with the new brakes (long pull vs. short pull).
If you can fit a 130mm hub between the rear dropouts I'd go with a 2x10 drivetrain with a super compact crank. An MTB crank with something like 40/28 and a 10 speed cassette with 11/32 or 11/34 is nice if you have hills. Flatter terrain or stronger rider might go with a 46/30 crank (the new Shimano GRX 10 speed gravel components are reasonably priced). You'll need a new RD, but the original FD might work if you are friction shifting the FD. I like Shimano 10 speed indexed downtube shifters - but they only work with a road RD. If you are going to use brifters then you should consult your vendor (or BF) to make sure all your new parts are compatible.
For the stem you can use a threadless adapter in order to be able to use 31.8 bars and a threadless stem with a removable faceplate. Or, you could re-use the existing 1" threaded stem and bars - or a Nitto Technomic (tall) stem with original bars or new bars that are 26.0(?)mm like the original. Another option - Velo Orange makes a cool 1" threaded stem with a removable face plate - a bit pricey but nice quality and less ugly than a threadless adapter. https://velo-orange.com/collections/...ceplate-31-8mm
You can re-use the seat post and whatever seat you want.
Get some fenders that are about 10 to 15mm wider than your new tires. Your frame and fork are ready to accept these. Fender installation requires some fiddling and patience. Good fenders come with a bag of hardware that should cover all of the possible challenges.
How much stuff do you want to carry on this bike? This is not a touring rig or an 'adventure' bike - light/medium loads only. Perhaps a front rack with a bag of some sort. Here's one possibility that should be fairly easy to fit - but this means installing fender stays and the bottom connection for this rack into the lone eyelet near the dropouts on your fork. https://velo-orange.com/collections/racks/products/vo-
constructeur-front-rack
Basically, I'm recommending a randonneur-style bike. I simply like the looks and function of that style. However, my ideas are adding some weight to your bike - but to me that doesn't matter. If done this way the completed bike would probably weight in the neighborhood of 28 to 30#.
So, these are my ideas - there are plenty of other possibilities.
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#33
Blamester
There's mine. Columbus minimal fork.
Carbon bars , allloy stem shimmed and 1 inch everything else.
Threadlless is the way to go so many more options. So simple to work on. And for me an excellent upgrade.
#35
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I have spent most of my working life renovating and restoring homes. As a hobby, I do the same with bicycles. If I can't do a faithful restoration using all of the original parts, then I at least use period correct parts of the same performance level.
Last edited by branko_76; 06-07-20 at 10:16 PM.
#36
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I say go for it. It's an unadorned frame that's ready for some more riding, whatever the groupset.
RiddleOfSteel has made some really nice retro roadies, he might have some advice to give.
RiddleOfSteel has made some really nice retro roadies, he might have some advice to give.
#37
Senior Member
Yes: I think people are still a bit colored as we in the US have a bit of reverence to a nice holdsworth frame. In your neck of the woods they are far more common.
But I do agree: if you aren't up to spend the serious money, then your original fork is way better than anything you can get at a price point. Let that go as you are getting nothing for a ton of money- where it could be spend better in wheels. many modern sets would fine- I like ultegra 6800 if I have the chance- not the lightest but smoothest i've ever had and quality. Shimano has its issues but its a hard sell to say they don't do things right in terms of a quality product.
But I do agree: if you aren't up to spend the serious money, then your original fork is way better than anything you can get at a price point. Let that go as you are getting nothing for a ton of money- where it could be spend better in wheels. many modern sets would fine- I like ultegra 6800 if I have the chance- not the lightest but smoothest i've ever had and quality. Shimano has its issues but its a hard sell to say they don't do things right in terms of a quality product.
#38
Newbie
Fixed gear?
I believe the OP is going to set it up as a fixed gear.
I could be wrong.
Post#10
I could be wrong.
Post#10
Last edited by grindher; 06-07-20 at 05:37 PM. Reason: added post#10
#40
Blamester
I've never understood the reason for this. Once you take an older steel bike and change the fork for carbon fiber and put some sort of deep dish modern wheels on it the ride characteriistics are completely lost so why would you do it?
I've replaced all freewheels with a cassette hub to reduce axle issues but still use box section rims to get the ride quality. I can understand upgrading to index downtube shifters. If you want an all modern bike just go buy one.
I've replaced all freewheels with a cassette hub to reduce axle issues but still use box section rims to get the ride quality. I can understand upgrading to index downtube shifters. If you want an all modern bike just go buy one.
And most modern road bikes look awful.
So don't knock it till you have tried it.
I wouldn't put one on every bike but they have a place if you know what you want.
Last edited by blamester; 06-07-20 at 07:39 PM.
#41
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#42
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I can understand the fixed gear appeal, i.e. keeping it simple. What I don't get is the carbon fork, how is that an "upgrade" ?
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#43
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branko_76 Hi! The fork was more for the sake of weight reduction and also a modern look .. But since most people recommended not to change the fork I might just stick to the original..
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