rickyhmltn

So the good news is I'm not looking for you to tell me what bike to get but I would like to know what you think of this specific bike:

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/...st/9025/48885/

A little about what I'm doing:

*Commuting 13.8 miles each way to work, with one paved mountain and a couple of hills to go over (I live in the Appalachian mountains, the best part about going up the mountain is going down the other side!) I've already done this with a walmart Schwinn avenue.

* 5'11" 239 and on the way down so that's a good sign.

*It is within my price range. I was gonna spend a little more and go for a specialized crosstrail, but the $244.00 walmart bike actually hasn't done a bad bad job. The problem is it's a loaner and I gotta give it back.

*I've read that Steel makes for a more comfortable less jarring ride then Aluminum

*That said I see there are a few component differences. Since I'm already feeling good with the walmart bike, and the Sedona ST is an upgrade from that one, do I really need to upgrade the upgrade?

Would this be a good bike for what I want to do? I like it's look so that's a plus. What are your thoughts on it? Would you change anything on it, tires perhaps? I'm not set on it, but am leaning toward it.

Bonus question: Assuming you had the same travel distance and hill/mountain, why would YOU go for a different bike over this one?


Thanks all.

SlimRider

Actually, I love the fact that you're thinking of purchasing the Sedona ST. Having a Chromoly Steel frame will guarantee you decades of service, if you keep the Sedona ST dry. I only have one concern about the Sedona ST, and that's its rear derailleur. If you weren't riding any hills, it might last for a long time. However, the rear derailleur listed, is NOT made for hills, or the genuine mountains of Kentucky.

My advice to you, would be to purchase the Sedona ST and ride it until you wear the rear derailleur out. Afterwards, purchase the Deore XT or the Deore LX versions of Shimano rear derailleurs.

Additionally, those twist shifters are eventually going to need to be replaced. I'd replace those with Shimano thumb lever shifters (rapid fires) or STI-brifters.

So the rear derailleur and the twist shifters would be the only upgrades I'd consider. Of course, I'd make sure they were both well-worn before replacing them.

Other than that, I'd say that you have the perfect MTB for the money. Daily cycling is expensive anyway, so what the heck!!!

Good Luck!

- Slim

PS.

Which Walmart bike has lasted all this time on those Kentucky mountains?

* Also, you're going to need a kickstand!

Scooby214

My wife rides a Sedona, and it is a good bike for the money. The Sedona ST is definitely the model to have for commuting, with its steel frame and rigid fork. Have you ridden the bike yet? The geometry of the Sedona is rather upright, though the Schwinn Avenue is also an upright bike.

If you try out the Sedona and decide it fits you well, I'd go for it. Don't be in too big of a hurry to swap out derailleurs and such, but understand that they won't last forever. I have thousands of miles on the Sram X-3 rear derailleur on my Schwinn Sierra commuter, and it is still going strong.

The Sedona usually comes with basic Kenda tires that offer little or no puncture protection. The ones on my wife's bike are 26x1.95" tires. For her purposes, the tires are fine. I prefer narrower tires, so my commuter has 26x1.5 Vittoria Randonneur Pro tires.

alan s 

You should see if there is a similar model with disc brakes. Also, the following would not work for me: grip shifters, suspension seat post, huge saddle, riser stem, and plastic pedals.

SouthFLpix

Wow, with a 13.8 mile commute everyday you will be in shape in no time at all. That bike will work fine, although it's going to make you work very hard on windy days with it being so upright.

rickyhmltn

To answer SlimRiders question: It is a Schwinn Avenue. But it's only a month old so it hasn't lasted a long time yet. I did take it over a place called Foggy Mountain on US 23 and of course other hills here in KY. It did okay, but I can't speak for repeated rides on it yet.

I called my local Giant Dealer today and he recommended for that commute that I go with the
Giant Escape:
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/....1/8910/48613/

Saying it had better components meant to take the abuses of commuting, came with puncture resistant tires, etc... It's almost double the price, but as I said I was thinking about getting the Specialized Crosstrail.

I like the look of the Sedona ST but he said it would require more maintenance and tune ups and in not so many words terms of long term costs the Escape would be the better way of going.

Opinions?

SlimRider

So just what is your budget's $ upper limit, Ricky?

We'd be better able to assist you, if we had that information.

Also, are you mechanically inclined with bicycles?

- Slim

PS.

If you're going aluminum, suddenly the sky opens in terms of choices...

SouthFLpix

If you're considering the Giant Escape, then you should get the Giant Escape City, which is only $40 more. That gives you a rack and fenders, which makes it ready to commute out of the box.

SlimRider

Ok, Ricky!

It's like this:

If you are at all mechanically inclined, it would behoove you to get either the Sedona ST or the Cypress ST at $350.

At this point you'll have a 4130 chromoly steel frame bike that will last for decades if kept dry. Now that right there, makes it an investment.

Now as far as components go. If you are mechanically inclined, you can obtain videos at the library, watch videos from your Video Search mode, and watch bicycle installation and repair videos as long as you want via the INTERNET. You're most probably somewhat mechanical anyway coming from your region.
Now replacing one component each month is not like a car note or anything. You can take your time and eventually get pretty good at it, as you become more familiar with bike mechanics. It may even become a hobby that you'll look forward to each weekend.

Within a couple of years, you'll have a chromoly-steel framed bike, with all the ideal components that suit your daily trek. It will be customized with your special signature, embodying every nuance and whim that your little heart desires.... In a couple decades, you can even will it to your grandkids!

Check out the Cypress below:

www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/cypress.st/9019/48871/

-Slim

- OR -

OTOH ...You could just get an aluminum-framed commuter and be done with it!

rickyhmltn

The upwards limit I've set on myself is $550... that said, this is my first "real" bike and I'm trying to keep that as low as possible while still getting a quality bike. The giant escape 2 looks pretty good.

SuperDave

I can't think of a single darn reason to dissuade you from this purchase. Out of the box, it's a good-enough bike that you will be staggered at the difference from the Walmart offering. If you've found that one satisfactory, it's proof that your engine to change is stronger than your brain, which I say as a high compliment. Buy it, ride it, and don't change a thing until you've acclimated to what you feel to be the good and bad of your new ride. Upgrades are available; don't throw money at them until you know what's wrong.

It's steel. I plainly admit to being a wholehearted and narrow-gauge steel fan - I've pounded the snot out of my steel-framed Jamis for 7 years (in salt air), and pounded the snot out of my steel-framed KHS for 11 years before, and I'm about to replace the Jamis but only out of boredom. With a steel-framed custom.

Buy steel, enjoy the ride, and worry about other stuff because the frame is no longer on your radar.

And always realize that your self-opinion of you, and (whatever)bike together, is a relevant statistic. You like it? You going to be proud riding it? The battle is half-won.

no1mad 

If you are really considering something from the Escape line, then you need to compare the Escape 2- with how much it's going to cost you to add accessories- to the Escape City.

Mind you, I'm particularly fond of that rack (or any others in the entry level price point, for that matter), it will allow you to at least strap a backpack to it and has a mounting point for a rear light. The 17.9" chain stays will help tremendously in avoiding heel strike should you ever decide to try using panniers. The fenders on the Escape City are also longer than most OEM fenders, plus it has a kickstand.

SlimRider

Hi Ricky!

If $550 is your upper limit and you've already considered the costs of a helmet and a lock. I would strongly advise you to go to your nearest Jamis dealer and look at the Jamis Coda line-up. These are all chromoly-steel framed bikes with decent components.

Right now most 2011 Coda models are being sold for $500 at Sports Basement stores and Jamis dealerships throughout the country. These bikes are essentially road/hybrid bikes. Their tires can be changed to wider widths (up to 38mm) to make them behave more like MTN bikes or trail bikes. The Coda has Acera rear derailleurs and 24-speed shifters, the cassette is 8 speed just like the Escape. The only real difference here, I think is geometry and frame material. Also, the Escape is slightly more pricey.

Therefore, actually IMHO the Coda would be more of an investment due to the fact that it's made of steel...Also, you can add both fenders and racks to the Codas, because they already have the eyelets for them!

- Slim

PS.

The components on the Escape are NOT better than the components on the Coda. The Coda won the best Flat Handlebar road bicycle award for 2011!

Check out the Jamis line-up:

www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/street/coda/12_codasport_rd.html

It just looks like more bike...

SlimRider

Hi Ricky!

If you should decide to purchase the Giant Cypress ST model, it would be an excellent choice!

However, you must treat it with JP Weigle's Frame Saver as soon as you get it home. After treating it, let the treatment cure for about 24 hours before disturbing it. Let it cure in a warm environment. JP Weigle's Frame Saver will extend the life of your steel frame by many years. If I were you, I'd pour about a 1/4 cap full of CLEAN motor oil down the seat tube before the JP Weigle treatment. Immediately after treatment, reorient the bike at different angles, to assure thorough JP Weigle liquid contact. Set the bike down and let it cure.

In six months, you'll feel vindicated that you've made the correct choice!

- Slim

PS.

That's 1/4 cap NOT cup!

MillieKY

Greetings from Lexington!

I just happened to find a 2003 Giant Sedona in storage and upgraded from a Walmart Schwinn I'd been using to commute. If I do my full commute it's about 14 miles though I usually do a short 6 mile each way. With the exception that you must be east
out in the mountains and I'm in the rolling hills of the bluegrass I had to LOL a bit at how similar the situation was!

I had been saying the Schwinn is fine, it's fine, I don't see what the big deal is about a walmart bike, etc etc etc, but I am VERY happy with the upgrade. Just a flat out nicer ride, plus compared to my old bike there are more gear options. Not sure exactly which model I have but it seems very similar, hard nosed, etc. I had been looking at the Giant Excape for my first "real bike" but I don't feel the need to look anymore, for what it's worth. Sedona is my commuter bike and I'm loving it.

rickyhmltn

Thanks, I'm debating probably between the Sedona and Cypress. The Escape is not out of the question. Its hard to really choose because there are alot of different opinions out there. For instance these people https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lhxw4Fo1N8M say the Cypress is only good for about 6 miles of riding at a time.

I'm hoping that either the Sedona or Cypress can get me 13.8 miles each way. The Schwinn did and from what I understand these bikes are suppose to be much better.

Also Lexington is much more flat then East KY. Would the Sedona do well with that you think?

SlimRider

Hi there Ricky!

The Cypress ST model ($350) does not have a front suspension system like the other models in the Cypress line up. However, I took the liberty of checking your Schwinn Avenue out and it doesn't have much of a front suspension either.

The youtube video about the Cypress doesn't really impress me that much. You could tell at the outset that this guy wasn't really that enthusiastic about taking the Cypress for a spin in the first place. That guy is used to riding real road bikes where most of the time, your position of leaning forward allows your weight to be shifted forward.

Sitting up and erect with shocks beneath you feels great for awhile, but the problem is, holding that position for extended periods. Road bikers can assume a variety of positions when they ride. Road bikers also don't have suspension systems at all, other than their seats, perhaps.

If you're making it with that Schwinn Avenue now, you should be quite fine with either the Sedona ST or the Cypress ST. The other members of the Cypress line-up do have a front suspension system, but that will be for an additional $70 and your frame will become aluminum. Steel frames IMHO just feel better!

So therefore, I think you're good to go! Great choice, either one!

- Slim

PS.

Different handlebars can offer you a variety of different positions...

If I were you, I'd use my savings for upgrades!

SlimRider

Don't forget the Sedona ST!

It too is a good candidate for your terrain...

- Slim

rickyhmltn

Thanks Slim. I appreciate all your advice. I'll probably go with the cypress st as the shop only gets sedans by order.

hotshotwelder87

i recently purchased a sedona frame and forks for 20 bucks and was wanting to put new tires rims cranks and derailers...pretty much be a new bike...what does everyone suggest i go with mostly road bike?

Darth Lefty 

And brakes, controls, and cockpit parts. Do you have access to used parts and bike tools? New parts will make this project more expensive than a new bike.

hotshotwelder87

brake controls are there but lines are shot

Darth Lefty 

Here's a generic shopping list

Frameset: Frame, fork, headset, brake posts. Seems like you have these. Clean and fresh grease

Cockpit: Stem, spacers, handlebar, grips, seat post, saddle, seat post clamp (might be built into the frame if it's steel), pedals

Drivetrain: crankset, bottom bracket, cassette, chain

Controls: shifters and brake levers (sometimes combined), cable set, front and rear derailleurs, front and rear brake calipers

Wheels: front and rear wheel, tires, tubes, tape, skewers

Tools: bottom bracket socket (assuming it's a cartridge), cassette socket, metric Allen wrenches (the 4-5-6 combo wrenches are great), torque wrench for the BB and cranks because you especially don't want to under or over tighten a square taper crank.

Stuff for commuting: stuff for flats and adjustments, maybe fenders, something for all your stuff (clothes shoes laptop etc)