Crank pullers
04-01-20, 11:25 PM
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Crank pullers
I just saw a video of servicing a bottom mracket and it looked pretty straight forward but I'm
wondering if a crank puller will fit all bikes? I'm going to be doing a 1985 Specialized Sequoia. Thanks
wondering if a crank puller will fit all bikes? I'm going to be doing a 1985 Specialized Sequoia. Thanks
04-02-20, 04:45 AM
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The vast majority of bikes have the same 22mm dust cap/puller threads. Some exceptions are old Stronglight and TA cranks and a few others.
04-03-20, 02:08 AM
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A top tip (from an idiot!):
Make sure the puller head fits in the hole - e.g. inside the square hole once the bolt is removed.
On my first outing as a home bike mechanic a few years ago, I managed to destroy a crank arm because the puller I bought had a pull off wider fitting piece on the part that engages with the axle (which I didn't notice I needed to remove for my standard square crank/axle).
That is until I was wondering why it took so much force to turn, and I'd stripped the crank arm threads and crushed the square alloy of the crank arm into a weird diamond/star shape!!!
Had to use an automotive pulley/gear extractor tool to get the crank arm off and replace it!
Make sure the puller head fits in the hole - e.g. inside the square hole once the bolt is removed.
On my first outing as a home bike mechanic a few years ago, I managed to destroy a crank arm because the puller I bought had a pull off wider fitting piece on the part that engages with the axle (which I didn't notice I needed to remove for my standard square crank/axle).
That is until I was wondering why it took so much force to turn, and I'd stripped the crank arm threads and crushed the square alloy of the crank arm into a weird diamond/star shape!!!
Had to use an automotive pulley/gear extractor tool to get the crank arm off and replace it!
04-03-20, 02:19 AM
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A top tip (from an idiot!):
Make sure the puller head fits in the hole - e.g. inside the square hole once the bolt is removed.
On my first outing as a home bike mechanic a few years ago, I managed to destroy a crank arm because the puller I bought had a pull off wider fitting piece on the part that engages with the axle (which I didn't notice I needed to remove for my standard square crank/axle).
That is until I was wondering why it took so much force to turn, and I'd stripped the crank arm threads and crushed the square alloy of the crank arm into a weird diamond/star shape!!!
Had to use an automotive pulley/gear extractor tool to get the crank arm off and replace it!
Make sure the puller head fits in the hole - e.g. inside the square hole once the bolt is removed.
On my first outing as a home bike mechanic a few years ago, I managed to destroy a crank arm because the puller I bought had a pull off wider fitting piece on the part that engages with the axle (which I didn't notice I needed to remove for my standard square crank/axle).
That is until I was wondering why it took so much force to turn, and I'd stripped the crank arm threads and crushed the square alloy of the crank arm into a weird diamond/star shape!!!
Had to use an automotive pulley/gear extractor tool to get the crank arm off and replace it!
Some cranks will use washers which can also get in the way. Especially vintage Campagnolo. If you're back into the 1970's, look for the washers.
Some cranks will also use self-extractor dust covers which should simplify things a bit, although they can be removed and a regular crank wrench used.
04-03-20, 08:23 PM
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The OEM cranks of that bike will undoubtedly use the very common 22mm extractor with the "small" pressure tip. Fully screw the extractor into the arm's threads, not tightly but all the way. Placing the chain on the big ring might save you from knuckle scaring when your hands slip
Andy
Andy
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