Gardener D

Hi Im new to the forum an would like to ask a technical question.


I have a Raleigh Sun GT10 road racing bike that I bought nearly fourty years ago and due to various reasons have not ridden it much over all those years maybe under 500 miles.

I have done it up and been riding it a lot lately and I need advice about weather to replace the chain.

I will measure it to check wear etc but as I understand it any new chain i fit to this old bike could skip along the cogs.

I have read of this happening even with unworn cogs on this forum.

Deralier gears 5 speed freewheel on the back 2 rings on the front

My guess is that 40 year old chain thats on the bike is likely to be strong - it has no joining link

Can I use any 3/32 chain with a quick link? Do I need to replace the rear freewheel with such little use?

My dilemma is will i wreck the bike by trying to fix the bike when its not broke - but I dont want the chain to give way snap and cause me to have an accident either!!!

Any thoughts and opinions would be grateful.

Thanks David

JoeTBM 

A couple of pictures would help. I know you can't post them yet but just give us a link to where you store them.

In our shop we see many older donated bikes and have replaced the 3/32 chains with just about all manufacturer chains on these 5 speed freewheels with no issue.

If the chain is functional, not worn (stretched) and not rusty then try lubricating it and see how it rides.

Gardener D

Hi Bike Man I tried to post a link here to photos but im not allowed until i have posted 10 times, thanks David

I measured 12 inch of chain centre of one rivet to center of rivet - it was exactly 12 inches under slight tension

The bike rides well with no gear changing issues and chain is very well lubed with light oil

Thanks David

ramzilla

I use KMC 8.93 chains on all my old bikes. They're a little pricey. So, look for a sale. The "quick link" feature makes them worth the extra. Will fit a 2X5 set up perfectly.

Andrew R Stewart 

The usual issue with modern, and narrower then the old 3/32" chains, is that the rings can be wider apart then the modern chain likes. When down shifting off of the big ring the chain can ride ontop of the small ring's teeth or get trapped between the rings. Last week I narrowed the ring to ring dimension by subbing shorter ring bolt spacers.

As to the chain's strength question. Modern chains are typically stronger in the aspect of the side plate not being pried off the pins during poor shifting (as in not soft pedaling). The pins are peened over on their ends (rivet like) to better retain the side plate. This increase of side plate retention is needed due to the greater twisting/prying forces a modern cog or ring creates, when the chain can be riding on two cogs at the same time during the shift. Shimano found this out decades ago, now you know too.

As to the joining question. The old way of forcing a pin out of the inner link then back in, to join a chain, went by the wayside due to those peened over pins. The peening will punch the side plate pin hole larger and thus the plate will more easily pull off the pin. We still see this at work on home wrenched bikes. If you can find a connecting link that fits your chain it will be fine to use it. If not then fall back on the pin push out then back in method or replace the chain with one that has a connector link. Andy

Gardener D

Thanks for your replies Andy and Ramzilla hereis a link to what im talking about

https://photos.app.goo.gl/eCUEFmgfFGdusRAj8

Thanks David