fantango

Hi
I've just started fixing my bike while I'm home self-isolating. I took the rear wheel off in order to take the cassette off to service and replace the chain etc. All of which I have managed to do. Now I've put the rear wheel back on the bike with the chain etc when I go to tighten the axle to keep the wheel on the bike the wheel is clamped to the frame and won't move. If I loosen it then the wheel just falls off. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. It is a nutted axle mount not a quick release. Thanks for help!

100bikes

By service, did you mean clean/repack the rear hub?
If so, you may have put the axle in the wrong direction, or failed to replace a spacer or put on opposite side.

Also, do you have a cassette or freewheel hub.
Some folks use the terms interchangeably, but they are very different animals.

A freewheel not spun on completely can cause this.

Photos in the case would be a big help.
rusty

_ForceD_

Just making sure...before you attempted to re-mount the wheel...did you ensure the freewheel/cassette, and axle all spin freely? Sometimes when you're tightening down a traditionally nut-fastened wheel...as you tighten one nut, and the other side is still loose, it will move the axle out of alignment and cause the wheel to get crooked and the tire to rub on the chain stay. And it can be tight enough that the wheel won't even spin. So, try to tighten the nuts on each side evenly, and keep an eye to make sure the wheel remains centered in the chain stays.

Dan

Andrew R Stewart 

This! We see this frequently at work. The axle spins while the rider turns one side's axle nut. The fix, besides a properly done axle cone/locknut/bearing adjustment, is to only turn one side's axle nut till it JUST snugs up a touch. Then turn in the other side's nut till it too snugs a tad. Go back to side 1 and further tighten a bit. Then back to side 2 for a bit. Repeat back and forth till both nuts are fully tightened. As long as you keep the axle from spinning within the slot during this the bearing adjustment should stay the same (whatever it was prior to installing, see above comment about the proper adjustment being the best start). Andy

LV2TNDM

And the best way to prevent this from happening in the first place is liberal use of grease on the axle threads and bolt where it turns against the washer. It's friction between the nut and axle that's causing the problem. However, be sure you apply waterproof grease only to the nut and threads where it's needed. Avoid over-doing it and getting grease all over the hub locknuts and dropout. This will only cause potential problems.

If the axle threads are rusty or damaged in any way, use a wire brush in a drill to clean up the threads before reassembly. This works like a charm and will renew them really well. This will reduce friction as well.

That said, you may still need to tighten one side a small amount, then switch to the opposite side and apply proper torque, and then return to the first side for final torquing. Properly cleaned and lubricated, you shouldn't have to go back and forth between sides; only once. This is what I've found works over the years. (That plus using proper tools. A box end wrench is what you want. Avoid using adjustable or crescent wrenches. I just worked on a bike with rounded-off flats because someone used the wrong wrench AND the threads were corroded and bone dry.)

Good luck.