Mezzo/Ori folding bike upgrades?
#251
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Newer sysle forks are safer due to design of drop outs. But you dont get the clinking nose on the newer version when/if you forget to tighten the QR.
Newer version will also not bend IMO if you forget to close QR and bike hits floor. (regardless of a crash or just looking foolish).
Newer seatpost better design. Prone to cracking. Consider drilling a hole to stop a creak spreading. You will see what I mean. Not end of world if it creaks and seatpost will stay secure untill you relaise undoing it. Just annoying to buy another one.
Newer version will also not bend IMO if you forget to close QR and bike hits floor. (regardless of a crash or just looking foolish).
Newer seatpost better design. Prone to cracking. Consider drilling a hole to stop a creak spreading. You will see what I mean. Not end of world if it creaks and seatpost will stay secure untill you relaise undoing it. Just annoying to buy another one.
#252
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Will newer style forks be compatible with the original older mudguard and housing and skewer?
#254
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The forks connect with allen keys to the fork headers so cant see a problem.
#255
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Also mine came as a complete part (fork + mudguard) and I needed a new QR as well, as that has completely changed.
For reference my original fork and mudguard matched my bike. The newer ones are alway black.
Not sure if you can get parts any more. The UK Mezzo site has gone, so they may not be supporting them much longer.
For reference my original fork and mudguard matched my bike. The newer ones are alway black.
Not sure if you can get parts any more. The UK Mezzo site has gone, so they may not be supporting them much longer.
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#257
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#258
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#259
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Oh dear,
As soon as I was happy with my mezzo it got stolen whilst I was in London. I absolutely love the mezzo and just want another one. If anyone has a D10 that they want to get rid of then let me know...
As soon as I was happy with my mezzo it got stolen whilst I was in London. I absolutely love the mezzo and just want another one. If anyone has a D10 that they want to get rid of then let me know...
#261
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Velorution sells Oris if you can't find a secondhand one you like.
https://www.velorution.com/index.php...rands/ori.html
#262
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Out of curiosity, has someone modified the Ori/Mezzo to…
1. replace the native bottom bracket with a Schlumpf/ATS SpeedDrive, which provides a 1.65 overdrive (ie. 30T chainring → 50T)
2. use a Ori Three Way Bag simply to get the support frame and carry eg. the 70-liter Ortlieb Back Roller Pro Basic bag (for reference, the Brompton T-Bag holds 31 liters)
?
1. replace the native bottom bracket with a Schlumpf/ATS SpeedDrive, which provides a 1.65 overdrive (ie. 30T chainring → 50T)
2. use a Ori Three Way Bag simply to get the support frame and carry eg. the 70-liter Ortlieb Back Roller Pro Basic bag (for reference, the Brompton T-Bag holds 31 liters)
?
Last edited by Winfried; 02-24-17 at 03:04 PM.
#264
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I Am familiar with the Schlumpf over drive cranks, I read Manuals on how to do it..
you need the shop to cut a chamfer in the edges of the BB Shell.
In France for shops that used to sell bikes with the full Mavic Component group, they would have that cutter..
As you had to do the same to those bikes for that BB, as you have to do for Schlumpf..
Just for different reasons..
for the speed drive, the torque transfer to the frame is Friction, there are conic grip washers in the install kit.
Alum frame they're steel, steel frame, the conic washers are Aluminum..
the dealer you buy the crank from should catch you up on the various details..
A 110 spider, Min chainring is 34t, though, not 30, so overdrive is "54"
...
you need the shop to cut a chamfer in the edges of the BB Shell.
In France for shops that used to sell bikes with the full Mavic Component group, they would have that cutter..
As you had to do the same to those bikes for that BB, as you have to do for Schlumpf..
Just for different reasons..
for the speed drive, the torque transfer to the frame is Friction, there are conic grip washers in the install kit.
Alum frame they're steel, steel frame, the conic washers are Aluminum..
the dealer you buy the crank from should catch you up on the various details..
A 110 spider, Min chainring is 34t, though, not 30, so overdrive is "54"
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 02-24-17 at 04:09 PM.
#265
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60 T chaing ring
I have an Ori m8 sport. I found this m10 mod upgrading the chain ring for 60T one
tyin.asablo.jp/blog/2015/04/15/7612276
Anybody else tried to do something like that? I read some post's before saying the bigger one can fits is 56T.
I ordered 60T chain ring and a longer chain on AliExpress, can't wait to put on mine
tyin.asablo.jp/blog/2015/04/15/7612276
Anybody else tried to do something like that? I read some post's before saying the bigger one can fits is 56T.
I ordered 60T chain ring and a longer chain on AliExpress, can't wait to put on mine
Last edited by Rood; 10-29-17 at 04:04 PM.
#266
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The 56 tooth is largest the D10 chain guard deals with. Not an issue but I think the chain catcher will only deal up to a 56t that will be an issue.
I have a cespro hub is you are interested in upgearing.
I have a cespro hub is you are interested in upgearing.
#267
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I'm new so I can't post links. I found a blog from a Japanese guy showing how he managed to fit the 60T (he replaced the chain catchers). I'll wait till I get my stuff and check if I like... or to start checking other way to upgear like the one you're suggesting
#269
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60 T chaing ring
I finished with my project. You were right, the chain catcher's were an issue.
I got my chainring with guard and bolts (larger than original ones) included.
I removed the chain catcher's and the whole piece they are attached, then I made the holes bigger, just enough to put the original bolts.
I test several times folding and unfolding and everything is smooth like always. I rode for a while and I really liked cause in my zone there aren't so many hills and before I never used 1&2nd speeds
I still cannot post URL's to show pictures cause I'm new, but as soon as I'll be able, I'll share some.
I got my chainring with guard and bolts (larger than original ones) included.
I removed the chain catcher's and the whole piece they are attached, then I made the holes bigger, just enough to put the original bolts.
I test several times folding and unfolding and everything is smooth like always. I rode for a while and I really liked cause in my zone there aren't so many hills and before I never used 1&2nd speeds
I still cannot post URL's to show pictures cause I'm new, but as soon as I'll be able, I'll share some.
#270
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#271
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I have have replaced the small wheels at the end of the rack with roller blade wheels and made brackets to attach a second pair of wheels to the front end of the rack. I re-used one of the original small wheels in place of the foot on the front mud guard. When folded it rolls very easily and is a big improvement on just the small wheels at the end of the rack. The small wheel bracket on the mudguard needs some work, its a bit bendy, I will probably make a different bracket with more offset to the outside for stability. The roller blade wheels are 62mm diameter and 18mm wide.
As for the front rollers- I see the way you used some plates to put the rollers at the right height so they work when the carrier is under the bike. I guess the screw here is covered with a plastic cover to stop people messing with it!
I'll need to fabricate some plates to sort this out.
Last edited by MezzoLew; 06-11-18 at 12:04 AM.
#272
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Good work MezzoLew. That is the screw I used for my front rollers, the one that attached the rack. I didn't use any covers on it. When making the plates, I machined a step into them that rested on the top face of the rack. This prevented the plates from rotating. I hope that made sense.
#273
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So I got an i4 off of another forum and am using it as a commuter bike at the minute.
I'm so impressed with how comfortable it is!
I'm toying with the idea of doing a few audax rides next season, and although I've done a couple of 50km rides on it stock, I am going to convert to drop bars when funds allow - hopefully within rhe nexth month or so.
A paupers way around the i4 shifter that I've figured is going to be a Thorn accessory bar that I currently have mounted as a light holder on my fixed wheel, so I don't need a bar end shifter now.
I'm more than happy to stick with the i4 hub - moving from a fixed wheel, 4 gears is loads! I'm happy with the range too - 39-72GI will be perfect for long distance. I'm a pootler, but am happy spinning along for miles on end at high cadence.
I'll probably put my Brooks B17 Narrow on it too.
I'll post some pictures once I'm done.
My question is - why has it taken so long to get a fold up bike in my life? At the moment, the only way I can see this being a better bike would be if it had trackends so I could convert it to fixed wheel - now that would be something.
I'm so impressed with how comfortable it is!
I'm toying with the idea of doing a few audax rides next season, and although I've done a couple of 50km rides on it stock, I am going to convert to drop bars when funds allow - hopefully within rhe nexth month or so.
A paupers way around the i4 shifter that I've figured is going to be a Thorn accessory bar that I currently have mounted as a light holder on my fixed wheel, so I don't need a bar end shifter now.
I'm more than happy to stick with the i4 hub - moving from a fixed wheel, 4 gears is loads! I'm happy with the range too - 39-72GI will be perfect for long distance. I'm a pootler, but am happy spinning along for miles on end at high cadence.
I'll probably put my Brooks B17 Narrow on it too.
I'll post some pictures once I'm done.
My question is - why has it taken so long to get a fold up bike in my life? At the moment, the only way I can see this being a better bike would be if it had trackends so I could convert it to fixed wheel - now that would be something.
Last edited by Jdludlow; 06-09-18 at 12:25 AM. Reason: spelling
#274
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I noticed in the UK most D9s on eBay are going for more than £350 - some still selling at £450 or more. Still a lot less than a new Mezzo or any other "B" folder!
#275
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I have the same idea to mount a bigger chainring (like 58T or 60T) on my Ori M10, it's possible also lower the chain tensioner on the crankset.