Co-Motion Tandem re-build
12-09-18, 06:30 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Southern California, USA
Posts: 10,474
Bikes: 1979 Raleigh Team 753
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3374 Post(s)
Liked 371 Times
in
253 Posts
Co-Motion Tandem re-build
This is my 5th tandem.
Bio:
My 1st tandem was a Dana Fenimore already built frame I built with Campy Neuvo Record 1981. Then I had my single frame builder, Gary Hale build me one and his apprentice Dwan Sheperd did most of the work. I obtained two elliptical steel tubes from Phil Wood to get a straight TT without cutting it. I used it for tandem 2 and because I had another tube - for tandem 3 5 years later. Dwan again built it, now as a founder and owner of Co-Motion - below.
My 1st Co-Motion - 3rd tandem.
Having two kids affected tandeming . With kid 1 we just pulled her in the trailer. Kid 2 shut things down - except, kid 2 loved bikes from 2 years old. I did the pedal your bike trailer, and then modified the tandem with a frame builder so a 6 year old could ride. He got tired of pushing his dad around and by 8 he was racing and I got my bike fix living through him and soccer fix living through my daughter.
Both kids gone now (24, and 20) and I just bought this Co-Motion aluminum - my 5th (or 4th, depends how you count). I thought the bike was slow and hard to ride. It could be 20 years and as many lbs added to me, but I had one of "my" specialty Di2 bikes my son rides in the garage I saw after each ride and decided to repurpose it rather than let it hang. I bought a couple of posts, the PowerTap hub and am still shopping rims/spokes. I had to buy another crank as I only had 175s and besides being longer than my wife likes, they hit the stays.
I also had some older tandem stuff I saved. That Nimble tri-spoke is the only tandem one Dave built. The Co Motion came with disc brakes and cross over (tandem) cranks and triple drive. It weighed a wee over 32lbs with my ugly super light red seatpost. This was near the starting point.
That ugly red post was mine and took a few OZ off. But this was generally the starting place.
I knocked 2# off just swapping off the disc for a good rim brake, and rim fork. That allowed me to remove the Wound-Up. Disc forks are heavier.
Same side drive (I prefer) and close on the sync chain with a 36T inner DA ring. I may go offset wolf tooth and see if I can get bigger, then flip the "big" WT ring.
Kid's (my) bar/stem was already wired. The Di2 wiring through the BB was quite a challenge. Note the sprinter shifters.
I'm still working on it. I have a rear PowerTap wheel I think I will build. If I change the seats I'll be under 25#. I like the Brooks.
Bio:
My 1st tandem was a Dana Fenimore already built frame I built with Campy Neuvo Record 1981. Then I had my single frame builder, Gary Hale build me one and his apprentice Dwan Sheperd did most of the work. I obtained two elliptical steel tubes from Phil Wood to get a straight TT without cutting it. I used it for tandem 2 and because I had another tube - for tandem 3 5 years later. Dwan again built it, now as a founder and owner of Co-Motion - below.
My 1st Co-Motion - 3rd tandem.
Having two kids affected tandeming . With kid 1 we just pulled her in the trailer. Kid 2 shut things down - except, kid 2 loved bikes from 2 years old. I did the pedal your bike trailer, and then modified the tandem with a frame builder so a 6 year old could ride. He got tired of pushing his dad around and by 8 he was racing and I got my bike fix living through him and soccer fix living through my daughter.
Both kids gone now (24, and 20) and I just bought this Co-Motion aluminum - my 5th (or 4th, depends how you count). I thought the bike was slow and hard to ride. It could be 20 years and as many lbs added to me, but I had one of "my" specialty Di2 bikes my son rides in the garage I saw after each ride and decided to repurpose it rather than let it hang. I bought a couple of posts, the PowerTap hub and am still shopping rims/spokes. I had to buy another crank as I only had 175s and besides being longer than my wife likes, they hit the stays.
I also had some older tandem stuff I saved. That Nimble tri-spoke is the only tandem one Dave built. The Co Motion came with disc brakes and cross over (tandem) cranks and triple drive. It weighed a wee over 32lbs with my ugly super light red seatpost. This was near the starting point.
That ugly red post was mine and took a few OZ off. But this was generally the starting place.
I knocked 2# off just swapping off the disc for a good rim brake, and rim fork. That allowed me to remove the Wound-Up. Disc forks are heavier.
Same side drive (I prefer) and close on the sync chain with a 36T inner DA ring. I may go offset wolf tooth and see if I can get bigger, then flip the "big" WT ring.
Kid's (my) bar/stem was already wired. The Di2 wiring through the BB was quite a challenge. Note the sprinter shifters.
I'm still working on it. I have a rear PowerTap wheel I think I will build. If I change the seats I'll be under 25#. I like the Brooks.
Last edited by Doge; 12-09-18 at 06:34 PM.
12-10-18, 09:01 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 1,672
Bikes: '06 Bianchi Pista; '57 Maclean; '10 Scott CR1 Pro; 2005 Trek 2000 Tandem; '09 Comotion Macchiato Tandem; 199? Novara Road; '17 Circe Helios e-tandem:1994 Trek 2300
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 147 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times
in
60 Posts
Just curious: how much will this beautiful rebuild cost?
Thanks
Thanks
12-10-18, 10:57 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Southern California, USA
Posts: 10,474
Bikes: 1979 Raleigh Team 753
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3374 Post(s)
Liked 371 Times
in
253 Posts
I can't say as I re-used a whole bunch of stuff just in the garage from one of my kid's bikes. My new out of pocket after having the bike is ~$1K not including rear tubular.
The bike in good used shape was $4K. I should have likely started with just a frame, and the Co-Motion is heavier than Calfee etc. I'd guess if to do from new >$10K.
Posts - the KCNC ~ $200
Stem - had it
DA cranks - had them except I bought a 165, but have a new 175 to sell so $350 or $0
Trispoke - had it from 1995 (but $1K??).
Chains - I put a new one on rear, and used two low mileage ones for sync.
Cassette ~$200 for the Ti one (not shown) and alloy one mfg gave me (I'm likely responsible for him selling 20+)
Seats - I had them
Di2 - I had everything but the splicing connectors - $36 inc levers, battery charger
Di2 Ultegra RD - forgot $300?
Bar/stem - I had it, it was on my kid's bike.
BBs - I had them too.
Wolf tooth - had that - 48, 46, 44 already
Brake calipers, levers - old DA from kid's bike.
Tires - Vittoria Tubulars and also a clincher set.
I did buy a PowerTap that I hope to build into a nice rear tubular. That being about another $800
The bike in good used shape was $4K. I should have likely started with just a frame, and the Co-Motion is heavier than Calfee etc. I'd guess if to do from new >$10K.
Posts - the KCNC ~ $200
Stem - had it
DA cranks - had them except I bought a 165, but have a new 175 to sell so $350 or $0
Trispoke - had it from 1995 (but $1K??).
Chains - I put a new one on rear, and used two low mileage ones for sync.
Cassette ~$200 for the Ti one (not shown) and alloy one mfg gave me (I'm likely responsible for him selling 20+)
Seats - I had them
Di2 - I had everything but the splicing connectors - $36 inc levers, battery charger
Di2 Ultegra RD - forgot $300?
Bar/stem - I had it, it was on my kid's bike.
BBs - I had them too.
Wolf tooth - had that - 48, 46, 44 already
Brake calipers, levers - old DA from kid's bike.
Tires - Vittoria Tubulars and also a clincher set.
I did buy a PowerTap that I hope to build into a nice rear tubular. That being about another $800
03-16-19, 06:04 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Southern California, USA
Posts: 10,474
Bikes: 1979 Raleigh Team 753
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3374 Post(s)
Liked 371 Times
in
253 Posts
Now 26# 4oz as shown, with pedals and WB cages. I'm not going to mess with the seats.
Big 28mm Vittoria Tubular in the rear. Veloflex Vlaanderen in the front. Riding both about 130PSI.
The tubulars are faster, esp the rear. I must be getting 1-2 mph over the original I started with.
As tubulars are kinda out-of-favor (again) I'm getting great deals.
This is a 1X11 with narrow-wide and clutched Di2 RD.
I have the hilly Recon cassette 11-36 and then use pictured DA 12-25 for normal riding. I think I'll swap that 48T for a 44T - maybe a 46T. It is rare I need the 48X12T anymore.
I modified the axle to be a thru axle on non-drive side and QR on drive side using some carbon fibre tubes and thick SS axle.
Front is 20hole Sapim cx-Ray. Rear is 24hole straight pull Sapim Strong. 13g at hub, 14g straight. I went with the ENVE brass nipples. I am not a fan at all of their rim brake surfaces.
I'm going to put the disc on the rear PowerTap hub. I may go Power Cordz to rear if I can get the length.
Big 28mm Vittoria Tubular in the rear. Veloflex Vlaanderen in the front. Riding both about 130PSI.
The tubulars are faster, esp the rear. I must be getting 1-2 mph over the original I started with.
As tubulars are kinda out-of-favor (again) I'm getting great deals.
This is a 1X11 with narrow-wide and clutched Di2 RD.
I have the hilly Recon cassette 11-36 and then use pictured DA 12-25 for normal riding. I think I'll swap that 48T for a 44T - maybe a 46T. It is rare I need the 48X12T anymore.
I modified the axle to be a thru axle on non-drive side and QR on drive side using some carbon fibre tubes and thick SS axle.
Front is 20hole Sapim cx-Ray. Rear is 24hole straight pull Sapim Strong. 13g at hub, 14g straight. I went with the ENVE brass nipples. I am not a fan at all of their rim brake surfaces.
I'm going to put the disc on the rear PowerTap hub. I may go Power Cordz to rear if I can get the length.
Last edited by Doge; 03-16-19 at 06:12 PM.
