Question on servicing a suntour cyclone hub bearing
12-16-21, 02:14 PM
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Question on servicing a suntour cyclone hub bearing
All my other vintage bikes I've serviced have cup and cone bearings. This is a Suntour
Cyclone wheel hub with sealed bearings.I was able to pry the rubber seals off and
flush and regrease the bearings.My question is, when I tighten this inner nut in the
photo do I just want it just tight enough so I get no axle play the same as cup and cones
or tighten it more? Thanks
Cyclone wheel hub with sealed bearings.I was able to pry the rubber seals off and
flush and regrease the bearings.My question is, when I tighten this inner nut in the
photo do I just want it just tight enough so I get no axle play the same as cup and cones
or tighten it more? Thanks
12-16-21, 03:13 PM
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IIRC these hubs use a threaded "carrier" that has a spec OD for the bearing's ID with a threaded ID for the axle. If then yes do take care how you thread and tighten the two axle sides WRT the bearing spin. The bearings are likely the 6001 spec (12x28x8) and should be easy to find. These hubs are also easy to remove and replace the bearings as the only press fits are into the shell and both sides can be done at the same time w/o the axle in place. But these radial contact bearings want only the very slightest of preloads or they will prematurely wear out. I like to adjust from a known tiny amount of slop to what feels like zero slop. Of course this is with the wheel in the frame for the final test. One cool aspect of these hubs is that they take a conventional axle so rear end spacing and chain line mods are easy to do. Andy
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Last edited by Andrew R Stewart; 12-16-21 at 03:15 PM. Reason: added text
12-16-21, 03:36 PM
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IIRC these hubs use a threaded "carrier" that has a spec OD for the bearing's ID with a threaded ID for the axle. If then yes do take care how you thread and tighten the two axle sides WRT the bearing spin. The bearings are likely the 6001 spec (12x28x8) and should be easy to find. These hubs are also easy to remove and replace the bearings as the only press fits are into the shell and both sides can be done at the same time w/o the axle in place. But these radial contact bearings want only the very slightest of preloads or they will prematurely wear out. I like to adjust from a known tiny amount of slop to what feels like zero slop. Of course this is with the wheel in the frame for the final test. One cool aspect of these hubs is that they take a conventional axle so rear end spacing and chain line mods are easy to do. Andy
12-16-21, 03:39 PM
#4
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Replace the bearings. By prying out the seals there is a 99.9 percent chance you destroyed the rubber seal. You can get the number off of the rubber seal you pried off.
You only need to service these bearings if they are rough and or falling apart, and by service, I mean replace the cartridge bearing.
They are adjust to no side to side movement, no loading the bearings.
You only need to service these bearings if they are rough and or falling apart, and by service, I mean replace the cartridge bearing.
They are adjust to no side to side movement, no loading the bearings.
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12-16-21, 04:03 PM
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Replace the bearings. By prying out the seals there is a 99.9 percent chance you destroyed the rubber seal. You can get the number off of the rubber seal you pried off.
You only need to service these bearings if they are rough and or falling apart, and by service, I mean replace the cartridge bearing.
They are adjust to no side to side movement, no loading the bearings.
You only need to service these bearings if they are rough and or falling apart, and by service, I mean replace the cartridge bearing.
They are adjust to no side to side movement, no loading the bearings.
Flushed out the bearings inside and regreased.
12-18-21, 12:02 PM
#6
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The "rule of thumb" for the adjustment is to hand tighten the threaded inside piece then back off 1/4 turn and then lock with the outer nut. There can be a slight amount of play at the rim when the wheel is installed.
