LBS question....
#1
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LBS question....
I have purchased two bikes from the same shop. A Kona PHD and a Kona Kula. After around 500 miles on each bike I took them in for adjustments, on both occasions I have been to that the chain was 80 to 85%worn. The kid at the LBS told me that the chain quality on new bikes are questionable. Of course I purchased new chains. Is this BS or what?
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The only way to know for sure is to measure yourself, and unless you have the old chains there's no way to know at this point (at least that I know of).
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I'd repost this on the Bike Mechanics forum. I've never really logged the miles per chain, but replacing the chain is a rare occurrence for me.
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Unless you're putting out the power of a pro cyclist and racing offroad in mud and dirt for those 500 miles then yes, it's most likely BS.
Did you keep the old chains? you can ask for them back as they are your property.
Did you keep the old chains? you can ask for them back as they are your property.
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Oh, and by the way, if the LBS is selling a bike where the chains are THAT crappy, they ought to replace them for you under warranty or something. there is no excuse for a chain that can't handle 500 miles.
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I buy the cheapest chains I can get, usually $5 on sale at Nashbar, and my ride is 8 miles of gravel each way which means every time it's raining it gets caked with sticky, sandy clay, you can hear it squeaking and grinding. And I still get 1800 miles on a chain. 500 miles sounds suspicious to me. I'd sure measure it myself.
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Last edited by ItsJustMe; 09-06-08 at 07:35 PM.
#12
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Many stock entry level bikes come with low quality chains. Many of those buyers use price as thier main focal point. Saving ten dollars on a chain may be the difference in a sale or no sale. When you buy a stock bike, you buy a stock bike. The LBS does not make them, only sells them. They will deal with the manufacturer and get you a replacement, but do you want the same chain?
I look for the letter "z" on the chain as a giveaway. It's the symbol of the manufacturer and they are very very cheap and widespread on the above named bikes. My first Giant OCR3 came with one of those chains and I had to change it with low milage.
Look for that "Z", and change it, or ride the 500 miles then upgrade.
I look for the letter "z" on the chain as a giveaway. It's the symbol of the manufacturer and they are very very cheap and widespread on the above named bikes. My first Giant OCR3 came with one of those chains and I had to change it with low milage.
Look for that "Z", and change it, or ride the 500 miles then upgrade.
Last edited by capejohn; 09-07-08 at 06:31 AM.
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if they're not single speed/fixed gear bikes... where the chain tension coulda been super duper tight resulting in premature wear...
i see no way you could only get 500miles on a chain.... pretty bs.
i see no way you could only get 500miles on a chain.... pretty bs.
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In good weather I get 3000 miles out of a chain. And usually the 9-speed rear cassette is showing wear by then too.
500 miles is just getting broken in!
Besides, were you having any problems with it??? I think you got hosed.
At least take it to another LBS for a second opinion.
500 miles is just getting broken in!
Besides, were you having any problems with it??? I think you got hosed.
At least take it to another LBS for a second opinion.
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Buy your own chain measuring tool and be an informed consumer. Five hundred miles is on the short side for a chain to wear out. However there is a fair amount of truth to the bikes being spec'd with inexpensive chains. FWIW my 3 speed bikes go 3,000-5,000 miles on cheap chains.
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#16
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Many stock entry level bikes come with low quality chains. Many of those buyers use price as thier main focal point. Saving ten dollars on a chain may be the difference in a sale or no sale. When you buy a stock bike, you buy a stock bike. The LBS does not make them, only sells them. They will deal with the manufacturer and get you a replacement, but do you want the same chain?
I look for the letter "z" on the chain as a giveaway. It's the symbol of the manufacturer and they are very very cheap and widespread on the above named bikes. My first Giant OCR3 came with one of those chains and I had to change it with low milage.
Look for that "Z", and change it, or ride the 500 miles then upgrade.
I look for the letter "z" on the chain as a giveaway. It's the symbol of the manufacturer and they are very very cheap and widespread on the above named bikes. My first Giant OCR3 came with one of those chains and I had to change it with low milage.
Look for that "Z", and change it, or ride the 500 miles then upgrade.
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Sounds like horse excrement. I can't recall the last time I replaced a chain due to wear and I've had my current bikes for many years and they shift and perform well.
A fellow I rode with two weeks ago had the same sort of nonsense pulled on him. Went in to get a spoke replaced and was told his brake pads were worn out....on a 5 month old bike that gets ridden twice a week.
Caveat emptor. If it sounds like BS ask the salesperson to show you, specifically, what's wrong. My car mechanic is fantastic about this. He invites customers into the repair area to demonstrate what's broken and why. Cyclists should expect the same.
A fellow I rode with two weeks ago had the same sort of nonsense pulled on him. Went in to get a spoke replaced and was told his brake pads were worn out....on a 5 month old bike that gets ridden twice a week.
Caveat emptor. If it sounds like BS ask the salesperson to show you, specifically, what's wrong. My car mechanic is fantastic about this. He invites customers into the repair area to demonstrate what's broken and why. Cyclists should expect the same.
#19
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For me changing a chain usually happens once a year, I log some 4 000+ miles a year commuting and recreational riding and next year racing will be added to the list. I keep my drive train well lubed and use Shimano 9 speed chains. Id hate to have to change my chain after about a month of riding...Your LBS is either screwing you or your doing something utterly wrong. Chances are greater it is the former
#20
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I've purchased many chains for my family's fleet of eight bikes (BTW, they all take 9-spd.). I usually purchase whatever is on sale at Nashbar, Jensen, Performance,etc. that has a master link... Generally I spend between 15 and 20 bucks... I have NEVER had a chain last only 500 miles.
As suggested previously, buy a chain checker. You can get 'em for less than $10 (sometimes a lot less) and they're basically foolproof to read. If you lube your drivetrain periodically (and check the stretch whenever you do) you'll be money ahead over the long haul.
We ride year-round in gritty, clay-based soil. I think it's pretty hard on chains/cassettes/chainrings. I've always been able to count on 1,000 - 2,000 miles of chain life. I could be wrong in this instance, but I suspect your LBS is padding their bottom line at your expense.
A chain tool, chain checker - and a bottle of Pro-Link lube will end that shop's parasitic drain on your checkbook.
Go forth and conquer!
DWR
As suggested previously, buy a chain checker. You can get 'em for less than $10 (sometimes a lot less) and they're basically foolproof to read. If you lube your drivetrain periodically (and check the stretch whenever you do) you'll be money ahead over the long haul.
We ride year-round in gritty, clay-based soil. I think it's pretty hard on chains/cassettes/chainrings. I've always been able to count on 1,000 - 2,000 miles of chain life. I could be wrong in this instance, but I suspect your LBS is padding their bottom line at your expense.
A chain tool, chain checker - and a bottle of Pro-Link lube will end that shop's parasitic drain on your checkbook.
Go forth and conquer!
DWR
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The PhD is spec'd with a Shimano 105 chain, and the Kula is spec'd with a Shimano HG53, so neither of them is really a crappy chain (not the best, but definitely not junk either). At 24 bucks each, the chains they replaced them with were at best the same quality, or quite likely a bit lower. They're ripping you off. I would personally never buy anything from that shop again. And I'd go in and let the manager know why. You went to them for their expertise, not to be ripped off.
#22
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When I learned wrenching, I was taught to replace a chain every 1500-2000 miles. This has never steered me wrong. Now that was when 9 speed was the max so it is conceivable that 10 speed or 11 speed chains aren't as resilient, but I think your LBS was just trying to sell you a chain (I think they're inspired by Jiffy Lube.)
If you want to know for sure, get a chain wear guide: https://www.parktool.com/products/det...=5&item=CC%2D3. This will tell you if the chain has stretched too long and needs to be replaces (The alternative is gears worn in by the stretched chain that will no longer accept new chains. When the worn chain finally dies, you have to replace all the gear cogs.)
If you want to know for sure, get a chain wear guide: https://www.parktool.com/products/det...=5&item=CC%2D3. This will tell you if the chain has stretched too long and needs to be replaces (The alternative is gears worn in by the stretched chain that will no longer accept new chains. When the worn chain finally dies, you have to replace all the gear cogs.)
#23
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From my experience, there are two schools of thought about chain replacement:
- Those who replace their chains frequently (around 1000 and 3000 km to reduce wear on the gears and get better shifting)
- Those who replace their chains with their drivetrain (around 15000 to 20000 km and replace chain, cassette and chainrings)
#24
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I think this LBS is acting just like your local oil change place, where every time you bring the car in they want to change your air filter, or clean your fuel system, or other such not-yet-necessary-but-really-profitable maintenance.
#25
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What will he do, go to the manager a couple of days later and say, "Hey I looked it up on the Intarwebs and they say you ripped me off! I'm outta here!"
See if they still have the old chain and inspect it. Ask what's wrong with it. If you're not satisfied (and you already got your bike back from them), feel free to call them on the scam.