Fender, disc, suspension, oh my....
10-01-08, 07:19 PM
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Fender, disc, suspension, oh my....
Again as the weather turns wet, the same(sorta) questions.
Is it safe to use the lower mounting hole on the fork for the brake, as a mount for a fender stay as well? I worry that the amount of torque that is placed on brakes would be compromised by the longer bolt plus stay. The stays are the 3/16" dia wire type.
Any thoughts?
AJ
Is it safe to use the lower mounting hole on the fork for the brake, as a mount for a fender stay as well? I worry that the amount of torque that is placed on brakes would be compromised by the longer bolt plus stay. The stays are the 3/16" dia wire type.
Any thoughts?
AJ
10-01-08, 07:31 PM
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Do not do this. There are fenders designed for suspension forks. You can also rig up something to secure the stay against the fork which does not use the same bolt as the one you use to mount the brake.
10-04-08, 08:08 AM
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Rocky Mountain did this on the rear disc brake of their 2008 Whistler. Maybe it could work in the front.
10-04-08, 11:09 AM
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I'll post pics later today of how I do mine. I've run fenders with stays on MTB setups for years using nothing other than two bits of rubber tubing and four zip ties.
10-04-08, 05:32 PM
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P-clamps around the lowers of the fork just above the brake posts. Use a scrap of an old tube to wrap the lowers before putting the p-clamp on so you don't scratch up the fork with the clamp.
10-04-08, 06:14 PM
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Here's what I've done over the years. Never an issue with them moving unless I bump the fender hard.
In this case due to the M shaped bridge the fender was treated to some softening from a heat gun and then pushed up against the apex of the M to form fit. With regular arches this isn't needed.
The stays are cut and bent as shown with about a 1/2 inch long segment running parallel to the fork leg. Mine hit the fork about 2/3 of the way between the axle and the top seal. It isn't critical at all though. The real secret is to use a slip on of rubber automotive vacuum tubing. Get a size that is a fairly snug fit onto the wire and use a bit of Windex to help slip it into place. It'll soon dry and leave the rubber a tight fit. When you tighten the zip ties you want to ensure they are snug but you don't need to reef on the end with the Jaws Of LIfe or anything silly like that. Just a good cinch down by hand.
Sorry the ties in the pics are grey. But hopefully you get the idea.
In this case due to the M shaped bridge the fender was treated to some softening from a heat gun and then pushed up against the apex of the M to form fit. With regular arches this isn't needed.
The stays are cut and bent as shown with about a 1/2 inch long segment running parallel to the fork leg. Mine hit the fork about 2/3 of the way between the axle and the top seal. It isn't critical at all though. The real secret is to use a slip on of rubber automotive vacuum tubing. Get a size that is a fairly snug fit onto the wire and use a bit of Windex to help slip it into place. It'll soon dry and leave the rubber a tight fit. When you tighten the zip ties you want to ensure they are snug but you don't need to reef on the end with the Jaws Of LIfe or anything silly like that. Just a good cinch down by hand.
Sorry the ties in the pics are grey. But hopefully you get the idea.
