Locks and security
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Locks and security
Hi,
I'm looking into which security methods to use for my bike. It's bright celeste green so will probably stand out, so I want to make it as secure as possible. When away from it will only be located outside my workplace, which has 24-hour security and a well-lit area for bikes outside the entrance, which is covered by CCTV. So hopefully as long as the lock can hold out for a few minutes, it should be spotted on the CCTV (although this isn't a definite).
I bought an Abus granit D-lock (here) to secure the frame to the bike rail, possibly also looping this around the rear wheel. I'm unsure about securing the front wheel (as it's quick release) - someone from the LBS recommended using a pitlock skewer for the front axle. Would this be secure enough? The other possibility was to get a long cable lock to loop around the front wheel, frame and possibly the rear wheel.
What are your suggestions? Thanks.
I'm looking into which security methods to use for my bike. It's bright celeste green so will probably stand out, so I want to make it as secure as possible. When away from it will only be located outside my workplace, which has 24-hour security and a well-lit area for bikes outside the entrance, which is covered by CCTV. So hopefully as long as the lock can hold out for a few minutes, it should be spotted on the CCTV (although this isn't a definite).
I bought an Abus granit D-lock (here) to secure the frame to the bike rail, possibly also looping this around the rear wheel. I'm unsure about securing the front wheel (as it's quick release) - someone from the LBS recommended using a pitlock skewer for the front axle. Would this be secure enough? The other possibility was to get a long cable lock to loop around the front wheel, frame and possibly the rear wheel.
What are your suggestions? Thanks.
#2
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I use a Kryptonite Evolution series 4 U-lock to lock my front wheel and frame together, and a Kryptonite New York Noose to lock the rear wheel and frame to a handrail at work. Oh, and the locks are keyed differently and I like it that way.
Sheldon Brown has an article on locking bikes up.
Sheldon Brown has an article on locking bikes up.
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I use pitlock skewers for the front, rear, and saddle post. They are awesome and well worth the price I paid. There's really no way to get the wheels off without the special key. I also use a Kryptonite mini u-lock. It's nice to just lock the frame, remove my lights and go, knowing my wheels and saddle are secure.
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Also consider a medium-security U-lock to secure the front wheel and frame to a separate immovable object. With one top-notch lock and one mid-range lock to defeat, attached to two separate immovable objects, thieves should be considerably more reluctant to attack. And that leaves you the option of leaving your heavier lock at work, and carrying your mid-range lock with you when you're on a trip that requires locking up for just a few minutes. For the mid-range lock, I'd consider the Kryptonite Evolution Series 4.
More locking ideas here: https://www.mechbgon.com/lock
More locking ideas here: https://www.mechbgon.com/lock
#5
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I have a Masterlock cable and medium strength master lock U lock. It's plently for my area, fairly low crime rate. They're keyed differently, and i'm betting your normal thief isn't going to have everything to break 2 locks, much less take the time to do so.
#6
Not safe for work
I use two locks:
1) Kryptonite lock and cable to lock up the front wheel and frame to the bike rack
2) OnGuard coil lock on the back wheel and frame to the bike rack
So far, so good!
I like the idea of the wheel skewer locks. I'm going to have to look at those.
1) Kryptonite lock and cable to lock up the front wheel and frame to the bike rack
2) OnGuard coil lock on the back wheel and frame to the bike rack
So far, so good!
I like the idea of the wheel skewer locks. I'm going to have to look at those.
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I use an old plastic-covered chain with a barrel combination lock. It's a '72 Schwinn, not in the best condition. It's why I ride it to work.
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I use a Kryptonite Evolution Mini-U-Lock to attach the frame to a parking meter, then run a 4' Kryptonite loop end cable through both front and rear wheels, putting the loops on the U-Lock.
Depending on the circumstances, I will sometimes use a Kryptonite seat cable, (Thin 2.5' loop end) looped through the seat rails then one loop down to the U-Lock as well.
The Evolution (orange rubber cover) locks don't use the round key, (famous for being opened with a Bic Pen). The new key is flat. One step up is a New York (yellow rubber cover) model, heavier and more$$.
Depending on the circumstances, I will sometimes use a Kryptonite seat cable, (Thin 2.5' loop end) looped through the seat rails then one loop down to the U-Lock as well.
The Evolution (orange rubber cover) locks don't use the round key, (famous for being opened with a Bic Pen). The new key is flat. One step up is a New York (yellow rubber cover) model, heavier and more$$.
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I use a 2-lock system for parking on racks that support the frame (or sign posts if nothing else is available):
1. U-lock to lock rear wheel and frame to the rack.
2. Cable lock to lock front wheel to the frame.
I'm willing to spend the extra 60 seconds it takes to fuss with all this for the security it provides.
I don't think locking system is 100% secure.
re: unlocking U-locks with pens. Those days are over. The problem has been corrected. They switched from round keys to flat keys. So don't buy a U-lock that takes a round key.
1. U-lock to lock rear wheel and frame to the rack.
2. Cable lock to lock front wheel to the frame.
I'm willing to spend the extra 60 seconds it takes to fuss with all this for the security it provides.
I don't think locking system is 100% secure.
re: unlocking U-locks with pens. Those days are over. The problem has been corrected. They switched from round keys to flat keys. So don't buy a U-lock that takes a round key.
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I live in a seriously low-crime area, and can get away with a thick cable lock for my 15 year old commuter bike. I don't trust any locks with my road bike, however. It comes inside with me wherever I ride it.
I know some people that live down in Denver, where there is much higher rates of bicycle theft, that really like using a combination of a hardened steel chain and lock (On Guard brand is popular), and a non-round keyed U-bolt lock. They leave the U-bolt on the rack at work, and carry the other lock around their necks when going to the grocery store and stuff.
At work they U-bolt the front tire and frame to the bike rack, and they use the long chain to lock both tires to the other lock AND the U-bolt. Away from work, they use the chain to lock both tires to a rack. I've heard of a nice bike being stolen with that set up too, though. If you leave an expensive bike in the same place every work day down there, they will figure out a way to get it.
I know some people that live down in Denver, where there is much higher rates of bicycle theft, that really like using a combination of a hardened steel chain and lock (On Guard brand is popular), and a non-round keyed U-bolt lock. They leave the U-bolt on the rack at work, and carry the other lock around their necks when going to the grocery store and stuff.
At work they U-bolt the front tire and frame to the bike rack, and they use the long chain to lock both tires to the other lock AND the U-bolt. Away from work, they use the chain to lock both tires to a rack. I've heard of a nice bike being stolen with that set up too, though. If you leave an expensive bike in the same place every work day down there, they will figure out a way to get it.
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Some people report the Pitlocks are easily compromised. Not sure if it is against site policy to link to another forum, but you can check it here.
Pitlock Easily Crushed With Bolt Cutters
Pitlock Easily Crushed With Bolt Cutters
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Nothing less than a U lock. I use skewers with allen screws (Axiom Slim Skewers) and never had any issue. I always lock frame and rear wheel. A thik steel cable is not going to cover it, my friend got his bike stolen a couple of weeks ago in a low crime area.
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Some people report the Pitlocks are easily compromised. Not sure if it is against site policy to link to another forum, but you can check it here.
Pitlock Easily Crushed With Bolt Cutters
Pitlock Easily Crushed With Bolt Cutters
FWIW, I've been using Pitlocks for years and am very fond of them.
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Thanks for all the replies. From what I've read, I need at least two different security methods. I currently have an Abus (sold secure gold) D-lock, which I will probably use for frame/rear wheel/rack. I bought a pitlock for the front wheel, but I'm slightly put off by some people's worries over their worth, and also the fact that a stupid thief may do a lot of damage to the front wheel in an attempt to get around it.
I have the option of returning the pitlock, and am now leaning towards scrapping it and buying a sold secure bronze or silver-rated chain lock for the front wheel/frame/rack (if possible). It seems the appearance of two large, different locks will be more off-putting than a D-lock alone.
I also need to consider the seat post and saddle - do I need to buy a cable for this, would a pitlock be worth it or could I even just take it with me?
Thanks again for the advice guys
I have the option of returning the pitlock, and am now leaning towards scrapping it and buying a sold secure bronze or silver-rated chain lock for the front wheel/frame/rack (if possible). It seems the appearance of two large, different locks will be more off-putting than a D-lock alone.
I also need to consider the seat post and saddle - do I need to buy a cable for this, would a pitlock be worth it or could I even just take it with me?
Thanks again for the advice guys