New Jockey Wheels Rattling
05-23-18, 03:19 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
New Jockey Wheels Rattling
Bought some new TACX jockey wheels and fitted them to the RD. When in large front ring and last few larger cogs on cassette and small front ring and last few smaller cogs, the chain or derailleur makes a noise, as if the chain wants to jump up or down the cassette. Limits and indexing are fine.
Could it simply be that the chain is older than the brand new jockey wheels and it doesn't like the new teeth on the jockeys that is causing this noise. Didn't notice it at all with the old stock Shimano jockeys.
TIA
Could it simply be that the chain is older than the brand new jockey wheels and it doesn't like the new teeth on the jockeys that is causing this noise. Didn't notice it at all with the old stock Shimano jockeys.
TIA
05-24-18, 05:23 AM
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
No takers?
Disgarding the possibility of cross chaining, which I don't do, although I may sometimes use the last but one or two cogs on the cassette on the odd occasion when in either front chainring. I reiterate that the old Shimano jockey wheels didn't make this rattling sound, even when going through the full range of the cassette when on a repair stand setting up indexing, limits, cable tension etc.
Disgarding the possibility of cross chaining, which I don't do, although I may sometimes use the last but one or two cogs on the cassette on the odd occasion when in either front chainring. I reiterate that the old Shimano jockey wheels didn't make this rattling sound, even when going through the full range of the cassette when on a repair stand setting up indexing, limits, cable tension etc.
Last edited by migrantwing; 05-24-18 at 05:27 AM.
05-24-18, 07:48 AM
#3
Banned
Have used Tacx pulleys for decades IDK what you are going on about..
I put a used already set on my Brompton chain tensioner,
they're quieter than the stock ones
Rohloff uses Tacx 10t on their chain tensioner.. from the beginning.
I put a used already set on my Brompton chain tensioner,
they're quieter than the stock ones
Rohloff uses Tacx 10t on their chain tensioner.. from the beginning.
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-24-18 at 11:31 AM.
05-24-18, 12:42 PM
#5
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Bought some new TACX jockey wheels and fitted them to the RD. When in large front ring and last few larger cogs on cassette and small front ring and last few smaller cogs, the chain or derailleur makes a noise, as if the chain wants to jump up or down the cassette. Limits and indexing are fine.
Could it simply be that the chain is older than the brand new jockey wheels and it doesn't like the new teeth on the jockeys that is causing this noise. Didn't notice it at all with the old stock Shimano jockeys.
TIA
Could it simply be that the chain is older than the brand new jockey wheels and it doesn't like the new teeth on the jockeys that is causing this noise. Didn't notice it at all with the old stock Shimano jockeys.
TIA
05-24-18, 03:35 PM
#7
Licensed Bike Geek
I’ve used the Tacx pulleys for a number of years, no issues. I’d repeat the question about the correct routing of the chain through the derailleur, above the tab (just below the top pulley, and I’d ask if you installed the pulleys correctly as there is an upper and lower wheel. They’re marked and they are different.
05-24-18, 04:21 PM
#8
don't try this at home.
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Hang the bike by the saddle to get the rear wheel off the ground.
Shift to the problem cogs and very slowly turn the crank. About 1 tooth engagement a second, really slow. Look for jumps or momentary hang ups as each chain plate approaches a cog tooth.
I located a clicking noise on each wheel revolution this way. The chain was clearing all but one of the cog's teeth (which are shaped differently from each other on modern cassettes to aid shifting). I could see the chain lift up a little at one tooth, then drop in correctly as the wheel rotated. That's enough to make a tick, tick noise. A slight derailleur adjustment inward fixed it.
~~~~
Accidentally routing the chain outside the small tab on the derailleur arm, between the pulleys, will have the chain rubbing and grinding on the tab. But that would make noise in all shift positions.
The chain should make a straight line between coming off the lower pulley and onto the top pulley.
I've done the wrong routing before. oops.
Shift to the problem cogs and very slowly turn the crank. About 1 tooth engagement a second, really slow. Look for jumps or momentary hang ups as each chain plate approaches a cog tooth.
I located a clicking noise on each wheel revolution this way. The chain was clearing all but one of the cog's teeth (which are shaped differently from each other on modern cassettes to aid shifting). I could see the chain lift up a little at one tooth, then drop in correctly as the wheel rotated. That's enough to make a tick, tick noise. A slight derailleur adjustment inward fixed it.
~~~~
Accidentally routing the chain outside the small tab on the derailleur arm, between the pulleys, will have the chain rubbing and grinding on the tab. But that would make noise in all shift positions.
The chain should make a straight line between coming off the lower pulley and onto the top pulley.
I've done the wrong routing before. oops.
05-24-18, 04:25 PM
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
05-24-18, 04:27 PM
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
05-24-18, 04:28 PM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
05-24-18, 04:31 PM
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
05-24-18, 04:35 PM
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hang the bike by the saddle to get the rear wheel off the ground.
Shift to the problem cogs and very slowly turn the crank. About 1 tooth engagement a second, really slow. Look for jumps or momentary hang ups as each chain plate approaches a cog tooth.
I located a clicking noise on each wheel revolution this way. The chain was clearing all but one of the cog's teeth (which are shaped differently from each other on modern cassettes to aid shifting). I could see the chain lift up a little at one tooth, then drop in correctly as the wheel rotated. That's enough to make a tick, tick noise. A slight derailleur adjustment inward fixed it.
~~~~
Accidentally routing the chain outside the small tab on the derailleur arm, between the pulleys, will have the chain rubbing and grinding on the tab. But that would make noise in all shift positions.
The chain should make a straight line between coming off the lower pulley and onto the top pulley.
I've done the wrong routing before. oops.
Shift to the problem cogs and very slowly turn the crank. About 1 tooth engagement a second, really slow. Look for jumps or momentary hang ups as each chain plate approaches a cog tooth.
I located a clicking noise on each wheel revolution this way. The chain was clearing all but one of the cog's teeth (which are shaped differently from each other on modern cassettes to aid shifting). I could see the chain lift up a little at one tooth, then drop in correctly as the wheel rotated. That's enough to make a tick, tick noise. A slight derailleur adjustment inward fixed it.
~~~~
Accidentally routing the chain outside the small tab on the derailleur arm, between the pulleys, will have the chain rubbing and grinding on the tab. But that would make noise in all shift positions.
The chain should make a straight line between coming off the lower pulley and onto the top pulley.
I've done the wrong routing before. oops.
The chain is definitely routed correctly. I have to admit routing the chain incorrectly too, many moons ago.
05-25-18, 02:31 AM
#14
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So what, your asking for an instant response, go to a LBS for that, not getting a response for 24 isn't uncommon on here, and your part of a spate of posters expecting an instant response in the last few weeks.
05-25-18, 06:03 AM
#15
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Thread Starter
I apologise wholeheartedly on behalf of other members who have been impatient over the last few weeks, including myself. I hope it hasn't affected your Chi too much.
05-25-18, 08:51 AM
#16
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So what, you say? So you posted an unhelpful reply also claiming a time frame of 2 hours when it was 14 hours. If you have nothing positive or helpful to say, it's best if you save your valuable time. I wouldn't want to put you out.
I apologise wholeheartedly on behalf of other members who have been impatient over the last few weeks, including myself. I hope it hasn't affected your Chi too much.
05-25-18, 04:34 PM
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yep! The TACX jockey wheels have inserts that you install according to which brand of derailleur you are installing them on, Shimano, Campagnolo or SRAM. I have used the correct inserts.
One thing that I overlooked is that TACX jockey wheels don't have any play in them, in the way that Shimano ones do. Maybe a tweak of the indexing may help. Maybe I'll try one of the slightly looser inserts to add a touch of play. I think it's going to be a case of messing around with these jockeys a bit.
One thing that I overlooked is that TACX jockey wheels don't have any play in them, in the way that Shimano ones do. Maybe a tweak of the indexing may help. Maybe I'll try one of the slightly looser inserts to add a touch of play. I think it's going to be a case of messing around with these jockeys a bit.
05-26-18, 07:20 AM
#19
Banned
a bushing pair, that butts together with the inside flange width wider than the bearing itself.
is where you should get that lateral motion your shimano indexing needs..
is where you should get that lateral motion your shimano indexing needs..
05-26-18, 08:47 AM
#20
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One thing that I overlooked is that TACX jockey wheels don't have any play in them, in the way that Shimano ones do. Maybe a tweak of the indexing may help. Maybe I'll try one of the slightly looser inserts to add a touch of play. I think it's going to be a case of messing around with these jockeys a bit.
05-27-18, 01:55 AM
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I was worried about that myself with my first set of TACX but it hasn't been an issue at all with 3 different bikes, shift exactly the same as with the OEM Shimano wheels. Can't remember if the indexing needed tweeking but try making an adjustment and just for good measure, but probably not necessary, check the limit screws since the non-floating wheel may initially move the chain a hair further over on the end cogs when shifting.
