Shimano 105 r5700 vs 2010 105 STIs
07-08-19, 08:05 PM
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Shimano 105 r5700 vs 2010 105 STIs
So, I'm regularly riding my 2010 Cannondale SIX-5, and wondering if an upgrade to the latest 10-speed model shifters would be worth it. Other than aero cable routing, are the 5700 STIs much better? If so, how?
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2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
07-08-19, 10:07 PM
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Are you posting from a time warp?
It's a lot easier to remove a frayed-off cable head from the aero levers. IIRC, the 11s ones are better again. As for actual shifting, meh... 10s aero STIs can sometimes defy all efforts to minimise cable friction enough to perform well. There's a reason they ran the gear cables that way in the first place.
11s are much more reliable due to revised cable pull. I'm not sure, but they might have done something with the cable pull midway through 10s; I seem to recall having to get in a new matching RD when a customer upgraded his 10s levers.
If it was me I'd go straight to 11s and employ one of the methods for using it on a 10s wheel. I actually have a 10s billet cassette modified to fit on a 7s cassette body, retrofit to reduce dish on my 10s wheel that already has an off-centre rim, because I hate dish. So not a fan of 11s wheels.
It's a lot easier to remove a frayed-off cable head from the aero levers. IIRC, the 11s ones are better again. As for actual shifting, meh... 10s aero STIs can sometimes defy all efforts to minimise cable friction enough to perform well. There's a reason they ran the gear cables that way in the first place.
11s are much more reliable due to revised cable pull. I'm not sure, but they might have done something with the cable pull midway through 10s; I seem to recall having to get in a new matching RD when a customer upgraded his 10s levers.
If it was me I'd go straight to 11s and employ one of the methods for using it on a 10s wheel. I actually have a 10s billet cassette modified to fit on a 7s cassette body, retrofit to reduce dish on my 10s wheel that already has an off-centre rim, because I hate dish. So not a fan of 11s wheels.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
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Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
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07-09-19, 03:50 AM
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Are you posting from a time warp?
It's a lot easier to remove a frayed-off cable head from the aero levers. IIRC, the 11s ones are better again. As for actual shifting, meh... 10s aero STIs can sometimes defy all efforts to minimise cable friction enough to perform well. There's a reason they ran the gear cables that way in the first place.
11s are much more reliable due to revised cable pull. I'm not sure, but they might have done something with the cable pull midway through 10s; I seem to recall having to get in a new matching RD when a customer upgraded his 10s levers.
If it was me I'd go straight to 11s and employ one of the methods for using it on a 10s wheel. I actually have a 10s billet cassette modified to fit on a 7s cassette body, retrofit to reduce dish on my 10s wheel that already has an off-centre rim, because I hate dish. So not a fan of 11s wheels.
It's a lot easier to remove a frayed-off cable head from the aero levers. IIRC, the 11s ones are better again. As for actual shifting, meh... 10s aero STIs can sometimes defy all efforts to minimise cable friction enough to perform well. There's a reason they ran the gear cables that way in the first place.
11s are much more reliable due to revised cable pull. I'm not sure, but they might have done something with the cable pull midway through 10s; I seem to recall having to get in a new matching RD when a customer upgraded his 10s levers.
If it was me I'd go straight to 11s and employ one of the methods for using it on a 10s wheel. I actually have a 10s billet cassette modified to fit on a 7s cassette body, retrofit to reduce dish on my 10s wheel that already has an off-centre rim, because I hate dish. So not a fan of 11s wheels.
I’ve not really kept up with newer products. From what I’ve learned so far (which is not a lot!) the 5700 series replaced my 5600 series shifters in 2011, so they’ve been around awhile. If they’re not much better, I won’t bother.I’m not ready to invest in 11-speed drivetrain, but it’s good to know the 11s will work with 10s. I’ll look into that.
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2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
07-09-19, 04:31 AM
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Not will work with; can work with... It can take some finagling, unless you're happy with the one 11s Shimano cassette that fits, an 11-34, IIRC
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
07-09-19, 04:40 AM
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07-09-19, 06:37 AM
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I made this exact move about 7 years ago. Cleaner look, poorer shifting on the RD in particular - slightly higher effort and a little less crisp feedback. The other potential negative is that the x700-series shifters have a reputation for eating cables (I never had a problem with that, but @datlas can attest to it). Prolly safe to blame the new (at the time), tighter cable routing for both of these niggles.
07-09-19, 10:05 AM
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I made this exact move about 7 years ago. Cleaner look, poorer shifting on the RD in particular - slightly higher effort and a little less crisp feedback. The other potential negative is that the x700-series shifters have a reputation for eating cables (I never had a problem with that, but @datlas can attest to it). Prolly safe to blame the new (at the time), tighter cable routing for both of these niggles.
How about last generation Ultegra 10s?
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2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
07-09-19, 10:16 AM
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07-10-19, 07:12 AM
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I think there's a 10s version of the 11s generation shifters, isn't there? That would be the one to think about if you don't mind going below 105...
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
07-10-19, 07:36 AM
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Tiagra is Shimano's current 10spd group.
07-10-19, 08:14 AM
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Oh, one other thing - brake pull changed the generation after 5600, so braking will be a little higher effort/less effective for the same effort. It didn't bother me that much, but I can see how it could bother some, 'specially if braking is only so-so to begin with.
07-10-19, 12:25 PM
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I have several bikes with STI shifters, going back to the dawn of brifters: circa early 90’s. When you are the 'bike guy' at work, bikes and components tend to fall into your lap.
I actually far prefer Campagnolo Ergopower ergonomics, but leave this aside.
The best shifting (fast, trouble-free and precise) out of all the STI shifters: the ones with the shift cables on the outside. The recent move to under the bar shift cables introduced tight bends, and extra friction. Plus the propensity to eat cables.
I have some mid-90s Shimano 600 shifters: pure shifting bliss. Flawless. Shimano got brifters right - right out of the gate.
You'll get some howls of protest... how can 25-year led shifters be any good... the reason why most folks give up on old shifters is because a cable end is jammed in a shifter body. Or their cables and housings are worn, and should have been replaced (yearly). Or their old shifters could have been revived with a 5 second spritz of WD40.
All simple and cheap fixes.
I actually far prefer Campagnolo Ergopower ergonomics, but leave this aside.
The best shifting (fast, trouble-free and precise) out of all the STI shifters: the ones with the shift cables on the outside. The recent move to under the bar shift cables introduced tight bends, and extra friction. Plus the propensity to eat cables.
I have some mid-90s Shimano 600 shifters: pure shifting bliss. Flawless. Shimano got brifters right - right out of the gate.
You'll get some howls of protest... how can 25-year led shifters be any good... the reason why most folks give up on old shifters is because a cable end is jammed in a shifter body. Or their cables and housings are worn, and should have been replaced (yearly). Or their old shifters could have been revived with a 5 second spritz of WD40.
All simple and cheap fixes.
07-10-19, 12:28 PM
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Shimano 5700 series 105 shifters are absolute crap. Poorly designed cable routing means the shifting is finicky and they're prone to having shifter cable heads break off in the shifter.
I hated mine for the 3 years I had them.
The current 10-speed Tiagra won't work with the older generation Shimano 10-speed stuff because they changed the cable pull--I think so the RD would be cross-compatible with 11sp shifters.
I hated mine for the 3 years I had them.
The current 10-speed Tiagra won't work with the older generation Shimano 10-speed stuff because they changed the cable pull--I think so the RD would be cross-compatible with 11sp shifters.
07-10-19, 12:42 PM
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I have several bikes with STI shifters, going back to the dawn of brifters: circa early 90’s. When you are the 'bike guy' at work, bikes and components tend to fall into your lap.
I actually far prefer Campagnolo Ergopower ergonomics, but leave this aside.
The best shifting (fast, trouble-free and precise) out of all the STI shifters: the ones with the shift cables on the outside. The recent move to under the bar shift cables introduced tight bends, and extra friction. Plus the propensity to eat cables.
I have some mid-90s Shimano 600 shifters: pure shifting bliss. Flawless. Shimano got brifters right - right out of the gate.
You'll get some howls of protest... how can 25-year led shifters be any good... the reason why most folks give up on old shifters is because a cable end is jammed in a shifter body. Or their cables and housings are worn, and should have been replaced (yearly). Or their old shifters could have been revived with a 5 second spritz of WD40.
All simple and cheap fixes.
I actually far prefer Campagnolo Ergopower ergonomics, but leave this aside.
The best shifting (fast, trouble-free and precise) out of all the STI shifters: the ones with the shift cables on the outside. The recent move to under the bar shift cables introduced tight bends, and extra friction. Plus the propensity to eat cables.
I have some mid-90s Shimano 600 shifters: pure shifting bliss. Flawless. Shimano got brifters right - right out of the gate.
You'll get some howls of protest... how can 25-year led shifters be any good... the reason why most folks give up on old shifters is because a cable end is jammed in a shifter body. Or their cables and housings are worn, and should have been replaced (yearly). Or their old shifters could have been revived with a 5 second spritz of WD40.
All simple and cheap fixes.
07-10-19, 01:18 PM
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My 6500 shifters which have exposed cables seem to shift as good as the new Ultegra r8000 shifters I tried. In fact I liked the way mike bike shifted versus the brand new bike I tested but I really dialed my bike in though. Those mechanics probably are not very good even though it seems like it's a reputable shop. So grain of salt.
07-10-19, 01:28 PM
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My 6500 shifters which have exposed cables seem to shift as good as the new Ultegra r8000 shifters I tried. In fact I liked the way mike bike shifted versus the brand new bike I tested but I really dialed my bike in though. Those mechanics probably are not very good even though it seems like it's a reputable shop. So grain of salt.
07-10-19, 02:41 PM
#17
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Keep in mind that in order to overcome the extra cable friction of under the bar wrap routing, Shimano has resorted to premium extra slick cable housing. No reason why you couldn't use this on your 7800 shifters, to produce even better shifting.
All of these systems have poor shifting relative to a 8 and 11-speed Alfine internal gear hub. That is impressive shifting.
07-10-19, 05:18 PM
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I have a 2012-ish Trek with 5700 shifters (and brakes). Once I got past the initial cable stretch and adjustments, I've had zero problems with either the FD or RD. I will admit that I've had the rear derailleur cable break on me twice out on the road, this in about 12K miles of riding. Both times the cable head sheared off in the brifter.
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