Higher end gravel bikes- e.g., Warbird and...what else?
#26
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Love my Revolt Advanced 2, it's great on the road and off. Friend of mine has the Revolt Advanced Pro Force, it's about 18lbs, comes with SRAM AXS and carbon wheels for $5500. The Advanced 0 comes with Ultegra and carbon wheels for $3650. Given that my 2 with 105 and alloy boat anchors is 22lbs, the 0 is prob around 19lbs. Geo is great, bike is fast and comfortable, I've done multiple centuries on it, gravel and road. I even did the WBL ride this past weekend on it, with the 40mm gravel tires (made for a good workout! lol).
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#27
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No mention of the Ibis Hakka? I rented one and was impressed. On the other hand, it is the only true gravel bike I’ve ridden so I may not be the best judge.
Last edited by slo_rida; 01-21-20 at 02:35 PM.
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Ibis Hakka MX looks to be a great option based on reviews and specs. Threaded T47 BB; light, versatile frame... lower priced than the Open UP. ENVE fork, fits tires well over 40mm, etc.
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Like has been said above, it would be good to know what you want to change. You have a variety of bikes in your stable, so you should know what you are looking for.
There are plenty of gravel bikes that lean towards the road/CX side of things. It sounds like this might work for you if it was lighter, carbon, and had more stack (more upright).
The first question I ask myself is what size tires do I want – as that will quickly eliminate a lot of bikes. With your diversity of bikes and “gravel only” desire you may want something that can handle 50mm 650b tires as an option. Your choice.
Gravely gravel bikes tend to be longer, lower, slacker than your Masi. Is that what you want? That is going to benefit you a lot going fast down hill on the loose stuff at the expense of agility on pavement. So, do you like the handling of your bike, or do you want something more stable?
1x doesn’t really offer any advantage over a 2x for gravel (It originally existed to make it easier to design full suspension bikes). Its fine if you are doing a lot of solo riding; many find it limiting when doing fast group rides and/or if you really care about both gear range and cadence (many people don’t).
If you “like your bike” some of the roadish gravel bikes above would be a lot of fun. If you want something more stable for long days in the saddle or fast downhills, a more gravelly gravel bike could make you happy.
Your choice.
Shopping is fun!
There are plenty of gravel bikes that lean towards the road/CX side of things. It sounds like this might work for you if it was lighter, carbon, and had more stack (more upright).
The first question I ask myself is what size tires do I want – as that will quickly eliminate a lot of bikes. With your diversity of bikes and “gravel only” desire you may want something that can handle 50mm 650b tires as an option. Your choice.
Gravely gravel bikes tend to be longer, lower, slacker than your Masi. Is that what you want? That is going to benefit you a lot going fast down hill on the loose stuff at the expense of agility on pavement. So, do you like the handling of your bike, or do you want something more stable?
1x doesn’t really offer any advantage over a 2x for gravel (It originally existed to make it easier to design full suspension bikes). Its fine if you are doing a lot of solo riding; many find it limiting when doing fast group rides and/or if you really care about both gear range and cadence (many people don’t).
If you “like your bike” some of the roadish gravel bikes above would be a lot of fun. If you want something more stable for long days in the saddle or fast downhills, a more gravelly gravel bike could make you happy.
Your choice.
Shopping is fun!
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#32
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Like has been said above, it would be good to know what you want to change. You have a variety of bikes in your stable, so you should know what you are looking for.
There are plenty of gravel bikes that lean towards the road/CX side of things. It sounds like this might work for you if it was lighter, carbon, and had more stack (more upright).
The first question I ask myself is what size tires do I want – as that will quickly eliminate a lot of bikes. With your diversity of bikes and “gravel only” desire you may want something that can handle 50mm 650b tires as an option. Your choice.
Gravely gravel bikes tend to be longer, lower, slacker than your Masi. Is that what you want? That is going to benefit you a lot going fast down hill on the loose stuff at the expense of agility on pavement. So, do you like the handling of your bike, or do you want something more stable?
1x doesn’t really offer any advantage over a 2x for gravel (It originally existed to make it easier to design full suspension bikes). Its fine if you are doing a lot of solo riding; many find it limiting when doing fast group rides and/or if you really care about both gear range and cadence (many people don’t).
If you “like your bike” some of the roadish gravel bikes above would be a lot of fun. If you want something more stable for long days in the saddle or fast downhills, a more gravelly gravel bike could make you happy.
Your choice.
Shopping is fun!
There are plenty of gravel bikes that lean towards the road/CX side of things. It sounds like this might work for you if it was lighter, carbon, and had more stack (more upright).
The first question I ask myself is what size tires do I want – as that will quickly eliminate a lot of bikes. With your diversity of bikes and “gravel only” desire you may want something that can handle 50mm 650b tires as an option. Your choice.
Gravely gravel bikes tend to be longer, lower, slacker than your Masi. Is that what you want? That is going to benefit you a lot going fast down hill on the loose stuff at the expense of agility on pavement. So, do you like the handling of your bike, or do you want something more stable?
1x doesn’t really offer any advantage over a 2x for gravel (It originally existed to make it easier to design full suspension bikes). Its fine if you are doing a lot of solo riding; many find it limiting when doing fast group rides and/or if you really care about both gear range and cadence (many people don’t).
If you “like your bike” some of the roadish gravel bikes above would be a lot of fun. If you want something more stable for long days in the saddle or fast downhills, a more gravelly gravel bike could make you happy.
Your choice.
Shopping is fun!
I've got plans to test ride a Warbird and a Topstone soon. Several people here have talked about the OPEN bikes, and they seem really interesting, but because they only sell framesets and everything is a custom build, it seems to be more of a bike for people who already know exactly what geometry is going to work for them.
#33
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Yeah, your comments touch on a lot of issues I've thought about. For some routes in this parts, long sandy patches really point to needing a wider tire. I don't know if I"d ever go to 50 or 60 mm, but I wouldn't buy a bike that couldn't comfortably take 40s. Also, I have been thinking about what you call "gravelly" bikes - i.e., longer/lower/slacker. I've done gravel centuries on the Masi, but for longer rides, I think that the comfort issues become more important. Also, many of the new bikes have various suspension solutions in the seat post or elsewhere that are interesting.
I've got plans to test ride a Warbird and a Topstone soon. Several people here have talked about the OPEN bikes, and they seem really interesting, but because they only sell framesets and everything is a custom build, it seems to be more of a bike for people who already know exactly what geometry is going to work for them.
I've got plans to test ride a Warbird and a Topstone soon. Several people here have talked about the OPEN bikes, and they seem really interesting, but because they only sell framesets and everything is a custom build, it seems to be more of a bike for people who already know exactly what geometry is going to work for them.
The long/low/slack (mtb theme) seems to matter most for downhills or high speed carving where the opposite will give you more low speed handling agility.
The warbird could tick your boxes (I haven't ridden a topstone). The UP was at the top of my list, but like you said...
I got a "budget" Open UP - I ended up with a Canyon CX bike (inflite) which has very similar geometry to the UP, but a complete 16-17lb bike cost the same as a UP bare frame. Plus, 30 day return guarantee. But with a bike that aggressive, 4 hours on gravel is about enough for me (low stack). I was shocked at how cush the bike road - I keep checking the air in my rear tire the first weeks I bought it, it was so smooth. For rougher/softer stuff I run 50mm up front, 40mm in the rear. Gives me extra flotation and steering in soft stuff, and a little more trail for stability.
For you, I'd also look into a 9er RDO (hard to get a test ride on one unless you know someone who has one). That is one sweet bike if you want a fast comfortable endurance bike.
#35
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#37
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I'm surprised there has been no mention of the Santa Cruz Stigmata. I think it meets your specs. Can't bet the SC build quality and warranty. I have a 2nd gen and love it. Similar to the Hakka that was mentioned or Open UPPER.
I'll also mention the Allied Cycle Works ABLE. Allied is an Arkansas based company and all their materials are US sourced. I've seen their bikes here around NWA and they're art on wheels.
I'll also mention the Allied Cycle Works ABLE. Allied is an Arkansas based company and all their materials are US sourced. I've seen their bikes here around NWA and they're art on wheels.
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I test rode a Warbird and a Topstone Carbon today. I'm thinking that the saddle set back on the Topstone wasn't right, because I just had a hard time getting power to the pedals. I did like how it smoothed out shocks from the road, though. I loved the Warbird. I'll go back and do the rides again, paying closer attention to the saddle placement. I also have plans to test ride a Checkpoint.
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+1
Mountain bike and road bike are hanging in the garage, desperately waiting for me to grab them for a ride...
Mountain bike and road bike are hanging in the garage, desperately waiting for me to grab them for a ride...
#41
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A lot of great recommendations, I would second the Bombtrack Hook ext c since I have one. I did notice know one mentioned the Bearclaw Thunderhawk. That's my dream bike right there.
#42
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As basic advice here, there's a LOT of options on the market now. Being a MN guy, I don't think you need to go full 50c / 2" tire (Open ; Rodeo) unless you want to go full rocky/muddy adventure. 43c tires are good for most everything else except washboard roads. That tire sizes impacts your basic options, but what gearing you can run (1x only? Maximum chain ring size?). Is this going to be a travel bike? If it needs to fit into a case, does it have fully internal cable runs (Can you take the bars stem off? With bars to rear internal you can't really). Are you going to run 28c road tires on it (then some of the 650b bikes might be out).
I'd steer you toward something that has more standard bits than non-standard and more mounts than 'race', so you can adapt the bike and being non-race doesn't cost much. Also note that being high-end here doesn't buy much relative to a road bike/mtb bike; fat tires on flat roads fix a lot, you don't need much aero, most of those frame tricks don't do much (Iso-bendy things) with 40psi tires, and there's not much weight to be saved. This is also a good genre to buy a Ti frameset if that's your jazz.
On the standards thing, note the Checkpoint SL has that seatmast , which I dislike on mine (ride quality, thigh rub, bike travel case fit, saddle clamp) - the ALR frame might be a better buy for example. On the 'non-race' features, after doing some rides I realized how important the 3rd and 4th bottle mounts are when you start getting looking for places to go. I'd spend most of your money on non-frame things and the nicer looking paint job - that will get dinged.
Have fun shopping!
I'd steer you toward something that has more standard bits than non-standard and more mounts than 'race', so you can adapt the bike and being non-race doesn't cost much. Also note that being high-end here doesn't buy much relative to a road bike/mtb bike; fat tires on flat roads fix a lot, you don't need much aero, most of those frame tricks don't do much (Iso-bendy things) with 40psi tires, and there's not much weight to be saved. This is also a good genre to buy a Ti frameset if that's your jazz.
On the standards thing, note the Checkpoint SL has that seatmast , which I dislike on mine (ride quality, thigh rub, bike travel case fit, saddle clamp) - the ALR frame might be a better buy for example. On the 'non-race' features, after doing some rides I realized how important the 3rd and 4th bottle mounts are when you start getting looking for places to go. I'd spend most of your money on non-frame things and the nicer looking paint job - that will get dinged.
Have fun shopping!
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#43
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There are soooo many options....
At the moment, I'm leaning towards the Warbird. Now thinking about just how much coin I want to drop. It seems that going up a level in component and wheel build is $1k/1lb. (20.5 lb warbird= $3k, 19.5 lb=$4k, 18.5 lb =$5k). It's true that I got into this in part because my existing bike is really heavy, but I'm leaning towards the ~$3k build (GRX 600). Probably.
At the moment, I'm leaning towards the Warbird. Now thinking about just how much coin I want to drop. It seems that going up a level in component and wheel build is $1k/1lb. (20.5 lb warbird= $3k, 19.5 lb=$4k, 18.5 lb =$5k). It's true that I got into this in part because my existing bike is really heavy, but I'm leaning towards the ~$3k build (GRX 600). Probably.
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There are soooo many options....
At the moment, I'm leaning towards the Warbird. Now thinking about just how much coin I want to drop. It seems that going up a level in component and wheel build is $1k/1lb. (20.5 lb warbird= $3k, 19.5 lb=$4k, 18.5 lb =$5k). It's true that I got into this in part because my existing bike is really heavy, but I'm leaning towards the ~$3k build (GRX 600). Probably.
At the moment, I'm leaning towards the Warbird. Now thinking about just how much coin I want to drop. It seems that going up a level in component and wheel build is $1k/1lb. (20.5 lb warbird= $3k, 19.5 lb=$4k, 18.5 lb =$5k). It's true that I got into this in part because my existing bike is really heavy, but I'm leaning towards the ~$3k build (GRX 600). Probably.
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#45
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There are soooo many options....
At the moment, I'm leaning towards the Warbird. Now thinking about just how much coin I want to drop. It seems that going up a level in component and wheel build is $1k/1lb. (20.5 lb warbird= $3k, 19.5 lb=$4k, 18.5 lb =$5k). It's true that I got into this in part because my existing bike is really heavy, but I'm leaning towards the ~$3k build (GRX 600). Probably.
At the moment, I'm leaning towards the Warbird. Now thinking about just how much coin I want to drop. It seems that going up a level in component and wheel build is $1k/1lb. (20.5 lb warbird= $3k, 19.5 lb=$4k, 18.5 lb =$5k). It's true that I got into this in part because my existing bike is really heavy, but I'm leaning towards the ~$3k build (GRX 600). Probably.
#48
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Yeah, that's what I thought - that the Canyon would be the way to go. But the Canyon Grail is more or less sold out indefinitely in most builds in my size.
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Seen this one and the reply they received from the manufacturer? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRX98HXQz10
OMG. Get a life.
And learn how to pronounce "Lynskey"