i have bolt on wheels, can I put QR?
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i have bolt on wheels, can I put QR?
I have bolt wheels on my bike, is it easy to switch to QR. Is the spacing the same?
I assume as long as the hub isnt smaller with QR that I can but add nuts or nothing.
Is there something that would stop me from being able to use a QR wheel?
I assume as long as the hub isnt smaller with QR that I can but add nuts or nothing.
Is there something that would stop me from being able to use a QR wheel?
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On rear hubs there's rarely anything preventing you from switching to a hollow axle of the same thread as yours and using QR. The front wheel is similar but some low end front hubs use a 5/16" (8mm) axle, and the smallest that will support QR is 9mm. So for the front wheel it'll depend on your axle.
Either way, check your axle diameter and thread pitch, and buy a hollow axle of the same type. On the rear you also need to know the width locknut to locknut and buy an axle 10-11mm longer, for example for a 130mm hub you'd buy a 141mm hollow axle.
Then you need the corresponding skewers at whatever quality, style and price you wish.
Overall it isn't a really expensive conversion, but isn't that cheap either especially if you have to pay a shop for the install, so check your front axle first, then check your options.
Either way, check your axle diameter and thread pitch, and buy a hollow axle of the same type. On the rear you also need to know the width locknut to locknut and buy an axle 10-11mm longer, for example for a 130mm hub you'd buy a 141mm hollow axle.
Then you need the corresponding skewers at whatever quality, style and price you wish.
Overall it isn't a really expensive conversion, but isn't that cheap either especially if you have to pay a shop for the install, so check your front axle first, then check your options.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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what if I just flat out change the wheel? do i need to worry about front fork spacing and the size of the drop out on the front?
#4
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If your front is a 5/16 axle then you MAY need to take a file or Dremel to the dropout notches and open them up a little to fit the new QR wheels.
And yes, you're better off with a new set of wheels. On most bikes that use solid axles and nuts the wheels are generally of lower quality used on less expensive bikes. Going to a new set of QR wheels will likely be an upgrade.
Keep the old wheels though. That way when you want to upgrade to a better bike you can put the old wheels back on to sell it off. The new wheels can then be used as a second set for the next bike. It's nice to have one set with street smooth tires and a second set of idential fit wheels set up with knobbies.
If you're doing this to JUST get QR axles then I'd say don't bother. It's easier to buy a cheap 15mm combination wrench and cut it in half and carry the short box end of the wrench in your bike's seat pack along with the spare tube and tire levers. But if your present wheels are often going out of true and perhaps suffer from frequent busted spokes then a new and better wheelset would be worth it. But again, look ahead and buy a set that will be worth keeping and using on your next better quality bike.
And yes, you're better off with a new set of wheels. On most bikes that use solid axles and nuts the wheels are generally of lower quality used on less expensive bikes. Going to a new set of QR wheels will likely be an upgrade.
Keep the old wheels though. That way when you want to upgrade to a better bike you can put the old wheels back on to sell it off. The new wheels can then be used as a second set for the next bike. It's nice to have one set with street smooth tires and a second set of idential fit wheels set up with knobbies.
If you're doing this to JUST get QR axles then I'd say don't bother. It's easier to buy a cheap 15mm combination wrench and cut it in half and carry the short box end of the wrench in your bike's seat pack along with the spare tube and tire levers. But if your present wheels are often going out of true and perhaps suffer from frequent busted spokes then a new and better wheelset would be worth it. But again, look ahead and buy a set that will be worth keeping and using on your next better quality bike.
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Usually no, but if the fork was made for the low end 5/16" axles, you'll need to file the slott a bit wider. it's not difficult, but needs to be done carefully.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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ok here is a question to go with this.
I find everytime i bolt my wheel back onto my bike its not quite in the same spot. Its a hassle since its bolt on and its hard to get it in just the right spot.
I assume if i had a QR this would be easier... or if there just something wrong with my wheel/fork.
I find everytime i bolt my wheel back onto my bike its not quite in the same spot. Its a hassle since its bolt on and its hard to get it in just the right spot.
I assume if i had a QR this would be easier... or if there just something wrong with my wheel/fork.
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ok here is a question to go with this.
I find everytime i bolt my wheel back onto my bike its not quite in the same spot. Its a hassle since its bolt on and its hard to get it in just the right spot.
I assume if i had a QR this would be easier... or if there just something wrong with my wheel/fork.
I find everytime i bolt my wheel back onto my bike its not quite in the same spot. Its a hassle since its bolt on and its hard to get it in just the right spot.
I assume if i had a QR this would be easier... or if there just something wrong with my wheel/fork.
If it's a rear wheel on a vertical dropout, possible bent rear traingle. Rear wheel on horizontal dropout - this you have to adjust manually everytime the wheel is removed/reinstalled.
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ok here is a question to go with this.
I find everytime i bolt my wheel back onto my bike its not quite in the same spot. Its a hassle since its bolt on and its hard to get it in just the right spot.
I assume if i had a QR this would be easier... or if there just something wrong with my wheel/fork.
I find everytime i bolt my wheel back onto my bike its not quite in the same spot. Its a hassle since its bolt on and its hard to get it in just the right spot.
I assume if i had a QR this would be easier... or if there just something wrong with my wheel/fork.