Wheel bearing press - what do you use?
#1
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Wheel bearing press - what do you use?
Hi guys, I would like to be able to service my hub bearings myself and have been looking for bearing presses but haven't really found anything apart from the very expensive Park Tool HBP-1 set. Are you aware of any more affordable alternatives? I have seen some home-made versions but if something ready-made is available I'd definitely look at it. I am not a pro mechanic and only will service my hubs a handful of times per year, so don't really need the bomb-proof Park Tool quality.
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Various methods cab be used for the install force. A threaded rod/long axle with nuts, A QR skewer. A hammer even. But more important then the method to force the bearings back into/onto the hub shell/axle is the washers/plugs that tough the bearing and clear the shell/axle. This is the feature of a bearing setting kit, it has the specific pressure plugs for the bearings already. The goal being to apply the force to the bearing's outer and inner race equally so that the races don't misalign under force and become damaged. Some of this depends on how the bearing is held in place in the shell and on the axle.
Home made pressure plugs can be sockets from a ratchet set, simple washers, other bearings and any round and flat thing of the proper diameters needed. I've used simple washers that are ground down in diameter on a bench grinder to suit and then a socket backing them up. Often I can use a long fully threaded axle and it's nuts as the force suppling device. Sometimes I'll use the cones to serve as centering devices to keep all axial as the bearings get pressed in. Andy
Home made pressure plugs can be sockets from a ratchet set, simple washers, other bearings and any round and flat thing of the proper diameters needed. I've used simple washers that are ground down in diameter on a bench grinder to suit and then a socket backing them up. Often I can use a long fully threaded axle and it's nuts as the force suppling device. Sometimes I'll use the cones to serve as centering devices to keep all axial as the bearings get pressed in. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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#3
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ok, I have found this which doesn't look too bad and also works for bottom brackets: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F7VXQVM/
I am still undecided but might give it a try
I am still undecided but might give it a try
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That's a rather complete kit and not a bad price. Do your homework and make sure it has your hubs' bearings plugs in it first. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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I've been using this for several years and it works perfect, and the price isn't bad at $35.00. I bought this along with the required bearing drifts I needed for my wheelset.
WM Economy Bearing Press
WM Economy Bearing Press
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Wheels Mfg makes many bearing presses and sells the drifts for each bearing individually.
https://wheelsmfg.com/presses-tools....list_limit=all
I own the Universal Bottom Bracket Press which I used to service cartridge bearings on old Mavic Kysrium wheels. It wasn't long enough to do the rear wheel and I had to use an old skewer and washers anyway.
-Tim-
https://wheelsmfg.com/presses-tools....list_limit=all
I own the Universal Bottom Bracket Press which I used to service cartridge bearings on old Mavic Kysrium wheels. It wasn't long enough to do the rear wheel and I had to use an old skewer and washers anyway.
-Tim-
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I was going to say something about the OP should hope that he doesn't need the tool for the same hubs more then once every few years, and even that's a lot. Unless something else is going on we aren't privy to. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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#10
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I am riding a lot but let me clarify: I won't service every hub a handful of times but between all my wheels there will probably be a handful of hub services per year. I've found my front hubs to run smoothly for years but rear hubs can get get rough with only a few thousand kilometers on the clock, especially on my CX bike. So I guess preventative measure is not a bad thing
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I am riding a lot but let me clarify: I won't service every hub a handful of times but between all my wheels there will probably be a handful of hub services per year. I've found my front hubs to run smoothly for years but rear hubs can get get rough with only a few thousand kilometers on the clock, especially on my CX bike. So I guess preventative measure is not a bad thing
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AndrewRStewart
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I'd consider finding bearings with better seals, maybe industrial bearings with water tight/washdown seals and installing only where needed.
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Don't forget the old mechanics trick of freezing the bearing and heating the hub. Put the bearing in the freezer for an hour or so, and just before taking it out, warm the hub with a heat gun or hair dryer. You won't have a lot of time once you take the bearing out of the freezer, so have everything ready to go. The bearing will shrink a very small amount and the hub opening will expand, again by a very small amount. This may make it easier to get the bearing seated properly.
I just use a socket that only contacts the outer race, and a small ball peen hammer. Don't forget the spacer between the bearings - please don't ask why I'm reminding you of this part.
I just use a socket that only contacts the outer race, and a small ball peen hammer. Don't forget the spacer between the bearings - please don't ask why I'm reminding you of this part.
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Dale, NL4T
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Second the cool the bearing approach suggested by Speedevil. Recently installed an FSA Megaevo BB/crank and found the 30mm axle
would NOT slide into the BB as the BB ID was 30.0 and the axle was 30.0mm. Unlike 24mm BB which are a slide fit, 30mm are not.
But putting the crank in the freezer for an hour or so resulted in an easy slide in fit. Probably could have brute forced the axle in but
did not want to beat on a brand new fancily decorated crankset.
would NOT slide into the BB as the BB ID was 30.0 and the axle was 30.0mm. Unlike 24mm BB which are a slide fit, 30mm are not.
But putting the crank in the freezer for an hour or so resulted in an easy slide in fit. Probably could have brute forced the axle in but
did not want to beat on a brand new fancily decorated crankset.