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Old 03-25-16, 07:55 PM
  #3426  
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke View Post
Umm...
please don't tell me that extra 10 british pound is for gold color lol
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Old 03-25-16, 08:30 PM
  #3427  
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Originally Posted by gycho77 View Post
please don't tell me that extra 10 british pound is for gold color lol
Haha, well sort of. The gold color comes from a titanium nitride coating which is supposed to lower friction. Whether or not that's true (or noticeable) and if it's something you value is up for discussion. One thing to note is that the silver comes with 112 links, and the gold only 100, so you're actually paying more for a shorter chain with a special coating.
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Old 03-25-16, 09:50 PM
  #3428  
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Originally Posted by TrackMonkey7 View Post
Haha, well sort of. The gold color comes from a titanium nitride coating which is supposed to lower friction. Whether or not that's true (or noticeable) and if it's something you value is up for discussion. One thing to note is that the silver comes with 112 links, and the gold only 100, so you're actually paying more for a shorter chain with a special coating.
I'm not a professional cyclist. Sp I will just get a silver chain. Thank you for your explain
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Old 03-26-16, 12:05 AM
  #3429  
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Originally Posted by TrackMonkey7 View Post
Haha, well sort of. The gold color comes from a titanium nitride coating which is supposed to lower friction. Whether or not that's true (or noticeable) and if it's something you value is up for discussion. One thing to note is that the silver comes with 112 links, and the gold only 100, so you're actually paying more for a shorter chain with a special coating.
Ha. That's great info.
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Old 03-26-16, 08:02 AM
  #3430  
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Originally Posted by gycho77 View Post
I'm not a professional cyclist. Sp I will just get a silver chain. Thank you for your explain
Actually, I think a better reply would have been: "I'm not a Master. So I will just get the a silver chain." Pros get their stuff for free, whereas Masters tend to have more money than sense. For example, I have two bikes with the Izumi V and I have another new Izumi V waiting for the next bike that I build. I'm definitely not a Pro.
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Old 03-26-16, 08:09 AM
  #3431  
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Originally Posted by dunderhi View Post
Actually, I think a better reply would have been: "I'm not a Master. So I will just get the a silver chain." Pros get their stuff for free, whereas Masters tend to have more money than sense. For example, I have two bikes with the Izumi V and I have another new Izumi V waiting for the next bike that I build. I'm definitely not a Pro.
haha that's funny.
I cannot wait to see yout next bike
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Old 03-26-16, 08:46 AM
  #3432  
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I think a lot of people who are VERY SERIOUS about bike racing - who travel for races, who train a year in advance, etc - sometimes go for value over quality with bike parts.

People like me.

I figure, I spend enough time and money on bike racing as it is. I can go with used wheels, aluminum frames, and mid-level parts. I'm not sacrificing any performance, and I'm just saving up my money for travel, big races, and any equipment crises that inevitably arise.
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Old 03-26-16, 10:04 AM
  #3433  
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In Japan one of the pros shamed me for using the Izumi V. He said, "why do you use that? Because it's gold?", then showed me the FULL GARBAGE CAN of chain take-off from the other pros– all the much cheaper $15 black/blue HKK chain. "The only difference is the color, save your money".

I'm of the opinion that because we change our chains fairly frequently to avoid prematurely wearing-out our pretty expensive chainrings and cogs, that the chain does not need to have crazy expensive coatings on it. I just get the $15-20 chain, and change it often.
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Old 03-26-16, 10:49 AM
  #3434  
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke View Post
In Japan one of the pros shamed me for using the Izumi V. He said, "why do you use that? Because it's gold?", then showed me the FULL GARBAGE CAN of chain take-off from the other pros– all the much cheaper $15 black/blue HKK chain. "The only difference is the color, save your money".

I'm of the opinion that because we change our chains fairly frequently to avoid prematurely wearing-out our pretty expensive chainrings and cogs, that the chain does not need to have crazy expensive coatings on it. I just get the $15-20 chain, and change it often.
If that is the case, why even bother with expensive chainrings? There are plenty of cheap($25-$40) chainring options. If one wants to stay in the $15-20 chain price point, then drop down to 130bcd, where the same $40 gets you a crankset and a chainring. Just sayin.
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Old 03-26-16, 11:03 AM
  #3435  
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Originally Posted by queerpunk View Post
I think a lot of people who are VERY SERIOUS about bike racing - who travel for races, who train a year in advance, etc - sometimes go for value over quality with bike parts.

People like me.

I figure, I spend enough time and money on bike racing as it is. I can go with used wheels, aluminum frames, and mid-level parts. I'm not sacrificing any performance, and I'm just saving up my money for travel, big races, and any equipment crises that inevitably arise.
I don't think one needs to be VERY SERIOUS about bike racing to go for value over quality. My point was that Masters tend to have a lot more disposable income than our 25yr old elite counterparts. Many of us Masters had left cycling to pursue our careers and now that we've gotten older we are returning to cycling, we no longer need to bum parts off of our teammates or scrimp and save to get enough for our next race entry fee. I actually turned a net profit my last year of VERY SERIOUS bike racing, but today cycling is a major money pit for me (although, not as bad as my car habit). This doesn't mean I'm going to stop anytime soon. Heck, I'm still making payments on my stay-at-the-track-every-weekend motorhome. That sounds at least like a kinda serious commitment to me.
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Old 03-26-16, 12:12 PM
  #3436  
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^oh, i agree - i was just also re-interpreting the notion that elite riders have (or need) the creme de la creme.
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Old 03-26-16, 01:00 PM
  #3437  
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I think the 112 vs 100 link info is an error on the KMC site. I'm looking at both chains right here and the box is marked 100 links on each.

I generally use the Ti-Nitride coated chain because it is supposed to last a little longer, too. Plus, I like a little flair. How often does everybody replace their chain, anyhow?
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Old 03-26-16, 01:31 PM
  #3438  
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Better off with cheap chains and TiNi coated rings and cogs.
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Old 03-26-16, 04:14 PM
  #3439  
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I change my chain before the season starts. Since I basically don't train on that bike, and it never sees bad weather, it's probably massive overkill, but track chains are cheap.
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Old 03-26-16, 05:03 PM
  #3440  
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Originally Posted by wens View Post
I change my chain before the season starts. Since I basically don't train on that bike, and it never sees bad weather, it's probably massive overkill, but track chains are cheap.
So basically our chain costs are about the same, since I would expect 3-4 seasons out of an Izumi V.
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Old 03-26-16, 05:16 PM
  #3441  
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Originally Posted by taras0000 View Post
Better off with cheap chains and TiNi coated rings and cogs.
I agree - Ti-nitride is for wear protection. It would be better applied to aluminum chain rings.
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Old 03-28-16, 05:09 PM
  #3442  
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I recall either a spreadsheet going around the internet, or a web app, for calculating power needed to ride a target pursuit time. It's not the pursuit schedule calculator that calculates splits. Instead, you put in your known 5min power and the pursuit time you rode, and it calculates your Cda. Then, based on that, you can enter a target pursuit time and it will calculate the power output you need in order to hit that time.

does this ring a bell? can you point me toward it?
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Old 03-28-16, 05:13 PM
  #3443  
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Originally Posted by queerpunk View Post
I recall either a spreadsheet going around the internet, or a web app, for calculating power needed to ride a target pursuit time. It's not the pursuit schedule calculator that calculates splits. Instead, you put in your known 5min power and the pursuit time you rode, and it calculates your Cda. Then, based on that, you can enter a target pursuit time and it will calculate the power output you need in order to hit that time.

does this ring a bell? can you point me toward it?
I don't recall. Maybe ask that Track Enduro FB group?
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Old 03-28-16, 07:10 PM
  #3444  
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Originally Posted by queerpunk View Post
I recall either a spreadsheet going around the internet, or a web app, for calculating power needed to ride a target pursuit time. It's not the pursuit schedule calculator that calculates splits. Instead, you put in your known 5min power and the pursuit time you rode, and it calculates your Cda. Then, based on that, you can enter a target pursuit time and it will calculate the power output you need in order to hit that time.

does this ring a bell? can you point me toward it?

I think the punch line is I don't know, but his face rings a bell.

freewebs.com/trainwithpower/CdA-Crr.xls
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Old 03-29-16, 05:35 AM
  #3445  
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Originally Posted by queerpunk View Post
I recall either a spreadsheet going around the internet, or a web app, for calculating power needed to ride a target pursuit time. It's not the pursuit schedule calculator that calculates splits. Instead, you put in your known 5min power and the pursuit time you rode, and it calculates your Cda. Then, based on that, you can enter a target pursuit time and it will calculate the power output you need in order to hit that time.

does this ring a bell? can you point me toward it?
Not sure it's what you're thinking of, but this has that info (for an indoor wooden track with fast tires):
Alex's Cycle Blog: Individual Pursuit - What Makes us Faster?
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Old 03-29-16, 07:23 AM
  #3446  
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Originally Posted by dunderhi View Post
I think the punch line is I don't know, but his face rings a bell.

freewebs.com/trainwithpower/CdA-Crr.xls
Thanks! This wasn't what I was thinking of, but it's interesting and I'm looking forward to playing around with it.

I actually found what I was looking for, and the embarrassing thing is that it was a spreadsheet that I made based on a Coggan chart I found associating W/CDA ratios to pursuit times for 2k, 3k, and 4k distances. From there it's easy to put in your power, get your cda, and then pick your target time and produce the power required to hit your target time.

Some aero testing can also help make reductions in cda...
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Old 04-01-16, 01:59 PM
  #3447  
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So I've just discovered that Pro-Lite do track frames. Has anyone got any opinions/experience on them?
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Old 04-01-16, 08:34 PM
  #3448  
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I believe the Pro-lite frames are the typical open mold stuff, just branded in their black and white colourway. I'd put them on the same level as the Planet X stuff as far as quality goes.
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Old 04-02-16, 07:37 PM
  #3449  
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Whats everyones thoughts on using a srm head unit to track speed/cad/hr without using a powermeter?
A few people in my club do this, im not sure if its for the "I have an srm" bragging rights or if they actually utilize the information recorded.
Ive got a cheapo cateye that i use for current speed when warming up or training juniours and max speed for when im doing efforts, but i do like the idea of being able to see how fast i got to that speed, how long i held it for, if it was a few second peak before dropping down a few ks
I think a power meter would be awesome, but well out of my price range, the headunit is still pricey and im not sure it would be worth the cost....
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Old 04-02-16, 11:30 PM
  #3450  
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Not sure if having a PC7 is enough for bragging rights... Other suitable options to record such data would be a Garmin etc, as long as you have it running off sensors and not GPS.
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